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Bungle Bungles WA Page 1 of 2 The amazing weathered domes of Purnululu’s Bungle Bungle range speak volumes about the region’s ancient history Words by Meryl Brown Tobin BUNGLE FACTS Over 600 different plant species, including 18 types of ferns, have been recorded in the Bungles. Some flora, such as the fan palm and livistona victoriae - seen clinging to almost vertical cliff faces in deep gorges as well as on chasm floors - is stunning. The park supports acacia and grevillea shrub lands and eucalypt woodlands, while spinifex and other grasses grow on the undulating plains of red and yellow sands making up most of the park. Fauna includes the echidna and mammals such as the dingo, short-eared rock wallaby and common wallaroo, or euro. The little button quail is one of the more than 140 bird species found in the park. Look out for the small bird walking in and out of the grass in both public camping areas. Various monitors, such as the ridge-tailed monitor, are among more than 80 recorded species of reptile. Beware of the king brown snake. Frogs include Copland’s rock frog, magnificent tree frog and rockhole frog. The Kija Aborigines, a river people who lived in the area for at least 20,000 years, have left art and burial sites. They gave the name Purnululu, meaning sandstone, to the sandstone area of the Bungles. Bungle Bungle may be a corruption of this name or of the bundle bundle grass found there and elsewhere in the Kimberley. In 1884, after Alexander Forrest’s 1876-79 explorations, pastoralists settled along the Ord River. The Bungles area was occupied in the early 1900s, and Arthur Muggleton, who took up his station in the 1930s, named it Bungle Bungle. By 1967, thanks to overgrazing, a large area along the Ord River catchment was so badly eroded it was declared a reserve for revegetation. The north-west corner of this reserve is now the Purnululu National Park.
To visit one of the world’s most impressive natural regions, fly or drive to the Bungle Bungles in the Purnululu National Park in Australia’s north-west. Renowned for its tiger-striped, sandstone beehive domes, the Bungle Bungle Range is a magnificent sight. In places, the spectacular Bungle Bungle massif towers nearly 300m above the surrounding sand plain. Stretching over 45,000ha, the red geological wonder, was formed about 360 million years ago during the Devonian Period. Sand and pebbles from nearby mountains washed down in south-flowing rivers and streams into the Bungles area. Over time, it compacted into sandstone and conglomerate. Subsequently, the range was uplifted and eroded by weathering 65-250 million years ago. Over the last 20 million years, water erosion by creeks and rivers has carved the domes, deep gorges and steep chasms. By air, the park is only about 160km south of Kununurra and 100km north-east of Halls Creek. By vehicle, follow the Gt. Northern Highway 250km south of Kununurra or 109km north of Halls Creek, then drive 53km eastwards along a rough track to the Ranger Station. Originally constructed for short-term mineral exploration, the rugged Spring Creek Track from the Gt. Northern Highway leads 53km through Mabel Downs Station and on to the Visitor Centre and Ranger Station. The Three-Ways T-intersection, another 7km, joins one east/west and the north/south roads in the park. The track, which has water crossings, is only for 4WDs with good clearance and sturdy off-road trailers and might take 3-4hrs to traverse. The Kurrajong and Walardi are the park’s two public camping areas. If you head north to the first, you’ll drive alongside the massive western face of the Bungle Bungle Range. Red, brown and rust against a cloudless blue sky; it features patches of green spinifex and grey rock. Small trees dot the top of the range, while shadows hint at crevices, cracks and chasms. Conditions in the camping areas are basic, and do not include the open-air hot showers enjoyed at the Bellburn tour-operators’ camp. Pit toilets, fireplaces, firewood and water (not recommended for drinking) are supplied. |
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