LANDROVER DEFENDER

The Defender was, surprise, surprise, engineered for the military market first and foremost. That rugged, square-panelled aluminium body sits on a set of chassis rails with more beef than a butcher’s shop. Genuine long-travel suspension, and a design that doesn’t leave anything snagging when you’re dragging, makes any Defender the real thing off-road. This is especially given the power characteristics of the turbo-diesel motors coupled with gearing that’s genuinely low-range capable. The 200Tdi, a four-cylinder donk used until 1999, puts out the same power as Toyota’s naturally aspirated 4L six while drinking almost half the fuel. No wonder Defender owners would rather fight than swap! The Defender’s coil-sprung ride is a massive improvement over the old-series leaf springs, but that’s about it for comfort technology. The interiors look spartan and offer beaut things like a handbrake lever that digs into your thigh and seats that are, err, ‘sittable’, just. Anyone used to a 40 Series Toyota (pick me!) would probably crow about the comfort level while everybody else is still laughing. Great resale values, terrific parts backup (albeit expensive) and strong demand means that you’ll be lucky to find a bargain Defender unless it’s hauled out of a swamp on a long rope. The post ‘99 five-cylinder diesel (still 2.5L) is smoother and faster still and has a reputation for longevity with regular servicing.

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

It’s rare to see a Defender jacked up because they come with so much clearance from standard. However, a snorkel should be top of the list of add-ons if the truck you’re looking at still hasn’t got one. ARB has lockers to suit for the very serious, and there’s no shortage of terrific suspension components available, too. Most Defenders were sold with narrow steel wheels, so wheels and tyres should be high on your list : unless you like the ‘noddy box’ look anyway. I’d be fitting a Long Ranger fuel tank too, because with that sort of economy, the Defender can truly be classed as a long-range tourer. Given that sort of usage, a dual-battery system is mandatory : got to keep the beer cold, haven’t we?

COMMON PROBLEMS

Axles and oil seals have a habit of weeping with age, but usually this is more bother than bother fixing. Early (pre-’94) models had quirky electrics, mostly nailed with Bosch componentry when the Germans bought Rover in 1994. Build quality is often sighted as a problem due to the English working man’s creed of warming up to his task slowly : usually around Wednesday : before tapering off sometime after lunch on Thursday. You’re right, that’s pretty much Mudflats rules, too. But Land Rover has offered superb after-sales service in the last decade, and any dramas like that have probably been nailed by now. Look for floppy rear sliding windows and cracks around the rear door hinges : all that’s holding the spare wheel in place. These are signs of big-time dirt work, and with the Defender’s trick door sealing (the rubbers are on the body, not the door), you’ll find signs of dust almost anywhere the detailer couldn’t reach. But most of all, check carefully for signs of beach driving (sand, beer stains and a fishy smell come to mind), because too many idiots figured that the all-aluminium body is rustproof, so there’s no need to wash her off. Which is bullsh*t, as the chassis, the backsides of the wheels, any drivetrain components not wearing a good oil leak and a host of fixtures like door frames and the like are all going to cop merry hell from salt immersion. They just look prettier when they drop, that’s all.

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 75 SERIES

Have you seen the way good 75 Series Toyotas have been holding their value the last few years? No worries, the 78/79s are more comfortable and more powerful, but love for the old workhorse has kept prices strong.
Love? For something uglier than Fat Kevvy at closing time? That’s because the 75 Series has been the backbone of most farming, tour and mining operations in the country since it replaced the 40 Series in 1985.
They didn’t change much except the body shape, even then proving that when you’re on a good thing, people will stick to it.
The 75 Series Toyota is possibly the most honest truck in the world. They have a truck-like ride, truck-like handling and truck-like comfort : old truck, that is.
With so many around, the whole trick to getting a good 75 is to look at a lot of them and pick the best one. The less rust and off-road work the better, and do some maths on them, too. It’s easy enough to replace a motor!

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Seeing as most 75s will come barred-up, snorkelled and ready to rock, the best value mods for the new owner will be to soften up the suspension. Those leaf packs are over-built something chronic, because Toyota knows more than a few farmers are likely to stuff a tractor on the back.
A good suspension man can lose some leaves and give the others a tweak, or you can invest in something like ARB’s aftermarket OME suspension, which completely transforms the ride.
The diesels were slow as, so a turbo and intercooler is a thought providing the basic motor is good enough to handle it. Petrols benefit from better breathing - especially extractors and a fat pipe, which makes a tad more power but usually gives a big improvement in fuel economy.
You can go as far as you want modifying 75s - there are buckets of bits and plenty of experience from a host of people who’ve already pushed the boundaries with event trucks and the like.

COMMON PROBLEMS

Watch that gearbox, especially fifth gear. Driven well, they’re not a problem, but abused : as a lot of rentals and fleet 75s tend to be - and they’ll drop cogs big-time.
No problems, it’s not a tough job to rebuild a Tojo five speed because they’re a pretty basic and popular unit, but be aware that there’s a bill attached, and it might be you paying it!

JEEP TJ WRANGLER

Since 1997, we’ve been getting TJ Series Wranglers delivered to our shores, and Australia’s been a better place because of it!
Looking close enough to the original WW II Jeeps to tickle an old digger’s heart, the Wranglers : which haven’t had any major changes since ‘97 because they didn’t need them - are a weird combination of solid old-style engineering tizzied up with some of the latest thinking around.
Actually, they’re not ‘weird’ so much as typically American. The big, 4L straight-six engine has been a Dodge trademark for 40 years, but with high-tech additions like electronic multi-point fuel injection and engine management, it’s better than ever.
Hauling a little chariot like the Wrangler is something this motor could do at idle, so the result is tyre-shredding performance from the lights and an ability to jump out of places off-road as if someone just lit the rocket.
The original Jeeps - and all since - have always had flexible suspension, but the Wrangler’s long-travel coils all round make it one of the best, and most comfortable, off-road weapons in standard trim.
Yet they’re slung off a ladder chassis reminiscent of a 1940s truck and topped with a fully galvanised body shell that’s stronger than a Hummer.
Wranglers are possibly the most underrated vehicle on the roads. Most people have no idea how well they perform, off-road and on, and don’t realise they’ll last forever with a bit of maintenance. They just buy them because they’re sexy.
Finding good second-hand Wranglers at the right price is easy, too. TJs aren’t for family men maybe, but they’re more fun than anything else you can do with your pants on.

OFF-ROAD MODIFICATIONS

The trick to Wranglers is to find people who know what they’re doing first. Then listen to a few opinions and work out where you want to go.
Thanks to a few quirks of the Dana driveline components - like a gearbox spline that’ll drop out if you jack them too high - lifting TJs needs to be done properly if you’re thinking more than 50mm.
Rear diffs - Dana 44s - are more than strong enough for an ARB Air Locker, and plenty of drivers run them on the Dana 30 up front too, though ‘use with caution’ is the recommendation. With lockers, decent tyres and a 50mm lift, a Wrangler can be dragged almost anywhere.

COMMON PROBLEMS

Look for weeping around the rear axle and pinion shafts, and from the rear engine oil seal, too. None of this is dramatic unless drip turns to flood, but while you’re down there, check for signs of severe off-road use.
With so many Wranglers around, you’re better off finding a clean ‘street rod’ unless the price justifies a bush-bashed baby instead.
Look for rust in the floor pans. Jeeps are thoroughly rustproofed at the factory, but if rust is going to kick off, this is where you’ll see it.
And if it’s had a suspension lift or is running bigger tyres, make sure nothing’s rubbing steering wise that might indicate the job wasn’t done right. Get a Jeep expert involved and you’ll get a rock-chewing rocket!

MITSUBISHI N SERIES PAJERO

Pajeros have earned one of the best reputations in the industry for customer loyalty. That means more people trade their old Pajero in on a newer Pajero rather than experiment with another brand. There’s good reason for that - they’re incredible little trucks.
Part of that is sheer excellence of engines. Both V6 motors (3L and 3.5L DOHC petrols) offer great poke with decent fuel economy, yet remain easy to service.
The 2.8L diesel is a reliable old slug, but in turbo-intercooled form, it’s got nearly 30-percent more of everything.
Pajeros don’t have any real driveline faults worth mentioning and tend to be ‘unbustable’ if driven sensibly. Seeing as most of them spend their lives picking up kids from school rather than leading the rally pack, it’s just a case of finding the right one.
So, plenty of good ones to choose from and the wife will love driving it when you’re too pis-, err, tired. The prices are right too, despite their strong resale market - terrific value for money is why!

OFF ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Torsion-bar front suspension means a 40mm tweak up front is about it, but the Pajero has one of the best-tucked bums in the business, so that’s not such a drama. Mitsubishi must have guessed that you’d be buying its car, because it put in three protection plates as standard.
For what they are - more rally bred than off-road - they’re a very capable vehicle already. I’d bung on a decent bar for protection and somewhere to hang the lights, and spend the money saved on hardcore gear on a decent fridge instead.
But I’d definitely go for a snorkel - very cheap engine insurance on a vehicle that’ll suck water well before it’ll stop!

COMMON PROBLEMS

Look for signs of rock damage and scraping underneath. If it’s really sad, you’re probably looking at your own old Pajero and not the one you’re thinking of buying!
While down there, check the body panel seams - there are plenty of them - for signs of rust, because they do trap sand and dust.
Other than that, there are no common problems, just individual ones. My suggestion is to get a Pajero enthusiast/mechanic to check it out and do any repairs if you need them.
Pajero parts aren’t bad but they have a reputation for being trickier to work on than average. Get someone who knows the tricks!

NISSAN GQ PATROL

The GQ Patrol replaced the MQ in 1988. They might have used the old body shape with some flared quarter panels, but from there on down it was all new.
Coil springs all around when Toyota was still using leaf packs was a real advancement in comfort and ride, and what surprised most people back then was that they suddenly found a lot of that soft articulation we love, too.
Yep, they were the toughest off-road wagon in the world back then, and that means that a good GQ still has everything it takes to play rough these days, too. But production stopped eight years ago, so straight away we're considering vehicles that are often 10 or more years old. No worries if it was owned by a weekend polisher with a heated garage, but for the most part, picking a good GQ is all about finding the one with the least amount of wear and tear. There are plenty out there and they're better value than ever, so if you're looking for a good truck with plenty of potential, it's hard to go past a GQ Patrol or the Ford-badged Maverick of the same era.

OFF ROAD MODIFICATIONS

Everybody and his dog have already modified their GQ, so there are plenty of parts around and a lot available second-hand and cheap, too. Start with some new suspension unless it's already been done, because those soft coils do sag, and the Aussie-engineered aftermarket products are so much better it's incredible. I'd go for a 50mm lift to start with to avoid steering-geometry dramas, but allow enough room for some bigger rubber. The slow, old diesels love a turbo, and all engines benefit from better breathing. Patrols don't need a lot of anything really, but I'd be thinking lockers both ends if you're getting serious. The diffs both ends are tough enough to take it, and once locked, well, try finding somewhere you can't go, short of a tree.

COMMON PROBLEMS

Leaky power-steering boxes - check them, they can get expensive to repair. And look at the front seat mounts and window winders too, because these are components that have been known to crack under the strain of too many corrugated miles. If they're looking dodgy, I'd be having a close look around the rear coil-spring mounts to the chassis - one of the few things on a Patrol that will break under constant hammering.