BULL-DUST
If you haven’t yet come across bull-dust in the bush, you’ll sure as hell know about it when you do. Your vehicle will be engulfed by a talcum powder-like substance, and it will want to stop dead in its tracks. Bull-dust is often hard to pick, and unless you’re travelling in convoy, you’ll have no idea where it is until you’re in the thick of it. So what do you do?
Don’t stop! If you do, you’ll probably get bogged, and it will be one of the most uncomfortable, filthy recoveries you’ll ever do. Think boggier than soft sand, and you’ll be getting it right. Nope, if you hit the dreaded bull-dust, keep your foot planted to the floor, and drive on out the other side. Bulldust usually only lasts for a few hundred metres, so keep on ploughing for as long as you can before the dust completely saps your momentum. In an auto, that’s easy, because your transmission will always select the right gear.
In a manual, depending on the speed and the gear you entered the bull-dust, you’re probably best off leaving it in the same gear and burying your right foot to the floor. If you’re running out of revs and power, and you know you can execute a quick shift, by all means go for it – but also take into account the massive loss of speed as soon as you apply the clutch. In other words, you could be better-off shifting from fifth gear straight to third gear, to get you to the other side.
 |
 |
TYRE DAMAGE
All of the major things that can harm a tyre are found when travelling on Aussie dirt roads. Heat is one enemy of tyres, but so too are sharp rocks, debris and sharp mulga stakes. The best way to be prepared is to make sure your tyres are in good condition before you go. Obviously, three-quarter worn-out tyres will provide much less protection than newies.
Also, lower tyre pressures will preserve your tyres, and give you a better ride over our dusty tracks. Don’t be tempted to pump your tyres up harder on the dirt, because they’ll be even more susceptible to punctures. The stiffer the tyre, the easier it is to penetrate. Think about it. If you were trying to drive a nail into a tyre, would it be easier if the tyre was fully-inflated, or completely flat?
A flat tyre will absorb much more of the nail’s pressure before puncturing, while a fully-inflated tyre will puncture like a balloon. Obviously, you still need the tyre to have enough air in it to handle well, stay secure to the bead and carry the load, so of course a decent amount of air pressure is required. And remember, when you lower your tyre pressure, you need to also lower your speed.
Next, you’ll need to look at the construction of the tyre. Is it light truck, or is it a passenger tyre? Light truck is preferable, because it’s a much stronger construction. On dirt roads, the tread should be a secondary consideration to the tyre’s construction. However, as most 4WDers know, the more aggressive the tread, the more serious the construction of the tyre. Aggressive tread patterns, like Cooper’s STT, Procomp’s X-Terrain and BF Goodrich’s Mud Terrain tyre, also mean that the construction of the tyre is superior to the same brand’s All Terrain tyre construction.
As a general rule, softer compounds will last longer on harsh dirt roads, which are why many mining companies are heading towards tyres like the Cooper ST-C, which have a softer, more chip-resistant compound. As a bare minimum, I’d recommend heading bush with a compressor, tyre gauge, and a tyre repair kit like the Safety Seal kit. This way, you can make on-the-spot repairs to your tyres, until you get back to civilisation to have the tyres checked out by the experts.
WET WEATHER
This is a biggie for those not familiar with the ways of the bush. Many dirt roads get closed after rain. Why? Because people tend to get bogged and stuck, and require big recovery efforts, and vehicles on rained-out dirt roads tend to cut tracks up badly, necessitating expensive road works. So when a road is closed, be responsible and don’t drive on it. You’ll be saving the bacon of many a future 4WDer, not to mention keeping the roads in good nick for farmers and people who live on bush tracks permanently.
EMERGENCY BRAKING
Unlike bitumen, the fastest way to stop on a dirt road is to lock up your wheels, by hitting your brakes hard. When you’re on dirt, a small mound of rubble collects in front of the tyre, improving your stopping ability. Of course, if you need to avoid something, skidding your vehicle means you can’t steer too well, so the ‘slam your foot down hard’ technique may not be an option.
If you spend most of your time on the bitumen, I’d recommend practicing emergency braking techniques on a quiet stretch of road. You might be surprised at how well – or how poorly – your vehicle pulls-up. If you’ve got an ABS-equipped vehicle, the theory is the same. The ABS programme will hopefully detect that you’re on dirt, and will adjust accordingly. Toyotas have the best dirt-road programme ABS on their vehicles, and you’ll stop quick-smart while maintaining your ability to steer.
The other factor to consider when you’re stopping in a hurry is your load. Chances are, you’re on tour, so your vehicle will be heavily laden, weighing at least 500kg to a tonne more than usual. So keep that in mind and keep your speeds down; after all, a vehicle travelling at 110km/h takes a lot longer to stop than one doing 80km/h.
WASHAWAYS
I haven’t met a washaway yet that didn’t surprise me; well, that’s mostly the case anyway. Washaways occur when rain has eroded a section of the track. The erosion can take the form of a slight dip, or half of the road can be gone, with a two-metre chunk missing from the edge of the track. Out near Finke in the Territory, where the track runs along the old Ghan Railway line, there are some particularly nasty washaways.
Here, the road is elevated, so the erosion washaways can be massive – expect 3m drops in places. If you see these ditches too late, then your chances of having a serious accident are high. Usually though, if the tracks have been dry for awhile, you can see other travellers detours around the worst washaways, and they’ll keep you safe from danger. However, if you’re one of the first to be tackling a track after heavy rain, you need to be on the lookout for fresh washaways.
On our last trip from Milparinka across the cut-line to Wanaaring, we found plenty of great washaways, and were constantly on the CB to vehicles up the back to tell them to watch out. Problem is, there were so many, that we forgot one, and poor Johnny Trackabout ploughed headlong into one with his big Effie and Trackabout camper-trailer! A less-experienced driver in a smaller truck might have been in serious trouble in the same situation.
But not all washaways are truck-eaters. Usually, they’ll just soak up all of your suspension travel, and give you and your passengers a buzz as you do the big ‘leap’ out the other side. To give your fourby the best chance, when you spot a washaway, brake hard, and slow your 4WD down as much as possible; then a few metres before the dip, accelerate. This technique will sit the nose of your vehicle up, and will allow your suspension to go through its full cycle, effectively cradling it through the obstacle. If you slam on your brakes throughout the whole washaway, you’ll have already used-up most of your suspensions down travel, so you’ll more likely hit the dip with a ‘crunch’ as your fourby ‘bottoms-out’.
And finally, as with all 4WDing, practice make perfect, so get out there soon and cruise down a new dirt road!
ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES
Tyre gauge
Air compressor
Tyre repair kit (plug-type kit)
OPTIONAL EXTRAS
Spare shock absorbers
Tyre pliers / bead breakers
Second spare tyre
Snorkel
<< Back to Tips & Techniques | Page 2 of 2 | << Page 1
|
|
