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Bleeding a GQ clutch

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Bleeding a GQ clutch

G'day all, you'll have to excuse me if I get it wrong. I'm new to computers and to forums in general. Anyway here we go, i recently replaced the slave cylinder of my td42 gq patrol. After reading the workshop manual and reading various posts it seems that quite a few of us have encountered the same problems, namely getting any success at all, i tried and tried again, got the wife involved as she has more patience than myself,still no joy. In the end I threw all info away and reverted to giving it a go the same way we used to when as kids we swapped clutch machanisms in old holdens from the rabbit trap to hydraulic. I cracked the bleeder at the slave and pumped the clutch flat out not pausing till fresh fluid came through,then held the pedal down closed the bleeder and wahla done in 30sec, checked the bleeder by the fuel filter and at the master cylinder, all good. Cheers hope this can be of help to someone someday

Unread postby Growler » February 2nd, 2011, 11:35 am


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

Welcome along to the forum Growler. What we might is do is direct you to the Nissan section to try and get your question answered for you. I will get another Mod to put your question in the appropriate section so yet get the max replies.
Good luck with it matey.
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Unread postby pickle » February 3rd, 2011, 10:03 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

Hi Growler, welcome to the Forum. Thread's moved Pickle!

The GQ clutches are renowned for being a little difficult to bleed properly, & you may find (depending on the vintage of your vehicle) a mid level bleed nipple on the LHS firewall/inner guard that was put there to enable/assist the bleeding process as a result of the difficulties sometimes experienced.

You really do need to follow the Nissan Workshop Manual Guidelines & with a transparent hose attached to the bleeder valve with the other end immersed in a glass jar partially filled with hydraulic fluid, pump the pedal a few times & then hold the pedal down before opening the bleeder valve to let any air out & then close the bleeder valve again before allowing the pedal to be released. Once the bleeder valve is closed again, release the pedal & check the master cylinder, top up if necessary, & if there was any air present, once again pump on the pedal a few times & then hold it down before once again opening the bleeder valve (still holding the pedal down) to let any air out & close it again before releasing the pedal. Do that until you get no air from the bleeder valve.

Bleed the slave cylinder that way first, then do the upper bleeder valve the same way, & you should get it done OK; but then it doesn't always oblige. If that's the case, & you've tried a few times to get all the air out & the clutch to work properly with no success, you can try gravity bleeding, leave the vehicle sitting there with a biggish container of brake fluid running into the top bleeder valve thru the line & slave cylinder & out of the slave cylinder bleeder valve into a large enough container to hold the escaping fluid, but that does have risks of letting more air in if you don't closely watch to keep the top container full; or you could see if you can beg or borrow a power bleeder & work your way back up the system to the master cylinder with it pumping fluid thru.

Still, sometimes it just seems to take a few tries to get it all sorted, all you can do is keep on going; after all, if the pedal goes spongy under foot, chances are there is air in there somewhere! And if that's the case, you've tried a few times & it still won't work, then the pump like buggry method you outlined in the original post might be the only way you can get it to work - and isn't that what counts?!?

Good Luck with it all!
An Ex-Service person is someone who, at some stage in their life, thought enough about their country, how great it is, and how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for an amount of 'Up to and including my Life!'

Unread postby Peter Aawen » February 3rd, 2011, 10:29 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

I had this issue after the hose to the slave sprung a leak. Mechanic (old useless one I don't use anymore) replaced the hose and said all done with something like 3' of freeplay.

Not happy Jan!

Anyway, I had him go over it again and he was using the sucking method with a power bleeder from the firewall bleeder valve. Seemed to improve it quite alot but still needed more after almost 2 bottles of fluid. He seemed to think it was some airlock in the line's elbows in the engine bay. Similar to how a DT works on a toilet. (That "S" bend thingy that trap bad smells rising from the sewer)

From this theory, my advice would be to pick one valve (either slave/or firewall bleeder) and stick to it with a power bleeder. Seeing it takes ages to get the air through the lines, bleeding from both directions will probably make the ordeal worse than it should but this is just another theory I drummed up and no credibility as yet.

Still has too much freeplay and will fix it myself when I get a spare moment but I'm not sure if doing it manually is such a great idea. I'm buying that power bleeder and it will hopefully be the best $100.00 I ever spend! I was reading a while back on it and something like 12 hours to bleed it manually...WTF?

Generally speaking though, The GQ's are a real pain to bleed clutches, so be patient with it.

Unread postby eusauce » February 4th, 2011, 8:49 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

thanks fellas, she's all good better than ever, generally i always follow the workshop manual but on this particular occassion i had a gutfull after an hr with no obvious sign of improvement, so probably dumb luck on my part that the pump like all get out worked haha gotta win one every now and then :D

but while i'm here has anyone put gu diffs in their gq and if so are the suspension pickup points the same? I've recently put in a BigO4x4 4" lift into the old girl and have read that the cv's are stronger on the gu, my rear diff has a minor bend (500,000+k's old) and thought about doing it as an upgrade but if my suspension doesn't fit I'll keep as is or just replace the rear housing

Cheers

Unread postby Growler » February 7th, 2011, 1:35 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

How long did it take to do the manual method Growler and which bleeder valve did you bleed from?

Good to see you got it working nevertheless though. Either you're one very lucky individual or you have one very tired leg...lol

Unread postby eusauce » February 7th, 2011, 7:01 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

G'day Eusauce, mate by cracking the bleeder at the slave and pumping toook about 20-30 seconds, if that long even for the new fluid to come through (had clear tube going into a jar with fresh fluid in) I know this goes against all the "rules" but it worked a treat. Had been trying the "proper" way for an hour before. Like I say may have been dumb luck, but i'd do it the same way again if i come accross a similar situation again. I then checked at the bleeder by the fuel filter and then at the master cylinder and all was good. it's the way we used to do it as kids when converting old holden clutches to hydraulic

Unread postby Growler » February 8th, 2011, 12:36 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

just make sure you keep an eye on the reservoir or you'll be back at the beginning if it sucks air ;)

Unread postby Growler » February 8th, 2011, 12:38 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

Cheers mate!

Have yet to check how the manual states how to do it but will check it anyway, try your method, cross fingers and report back.

Unread postby eusauce » February 8th, 2011, 1:40 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

The outline I posted above comes from the Nissan Workshop Manual.
An Ex-Service person is someone who, at some stage in their life, thought enough about their country, how great it is, and how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for an amount of 'Up to and including my Life!'

Unread postby Peter Aawen » February 8th, 2011, 4:21 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

G'day peter it sounds like they're a pig of a thing to bleed when i did a google search. stuffed mechanics, lube mobile etc thanks for the tips though, rekon i may just be lucky to have nailed it :)

Unread postby Growler » February 8th, 2011, 4:31 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

Peter @ Aawen4x4 wrote:The outline I posted above comes from the Nissan Workshop Manual.


Thanks... :)

I'll cross reference it to my trusty Gregory's. If in doubt, will consult on your post Peter. I'll try anything that saves me the cost of a power bleeder. Really, have better things to spend my money on.....like suspension gear.... :D

Unread postby eusauce » February 8th, 2011, 9:13 pm


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Re: Bleedimg a GQ clutch

Peter @ Aawen4x4 wrote:The outline I posted above comes from the Nissan Workshop Manual.


Thanks... :)

I'll cross reference it to my trusty Gregory's. If in doubt, will consult on your post Peter. I'll try anything that saves me the cost of a power bleeder. Really, have better things to spend my money on.....like suspension gear.... :D

Unread postby eusauce » February 8th, 2011, 9:13 pm



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