What should I check on new(2nd hand) Def - H/beam issue!

[TBRodeo45]

Hi,

I have just bought my first Defender, not my first land rover as we bought my wife a freelander a few years back but i don't want to talk about that....

So you may think I'm crazy as i have bought this without driving or even seeing it but have been assured of its near perfect condition. I fly over monday to melb from adel to drive it back ( i am taking tools and some filters/belts/fluids) with me to be safe.

I know nothing of these car except that they havnt changed much in 30+ years (which is always a good sign) and that the engine model i have is very simple (not much computerised) which is the way it should be!!!

From what i have seen bodywork and interior is no issue, its the donk and drivetrain i want some advice on.

What should i check immediately before the drive home?? apart from the usual vehicle checks. I know they don't have the best wrap for cooling systems so whats the advice on spares to take there or pre trip checks?? Other things like timing belt/chain?? if no written service history is given wheres the best place to get a service/workshop manual in SA?

Also one other 'minor' detail i havnt told my wife is I don't believe they have an anchor point for a baby seat. Is there an easy fix for this?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Peter Aawen]

If they are selling in Vic, don't they need to have a roadworthy certificate done to make the sale legal? If that's so, the basic safety stuff should be sorted.

Apart from that, unless you are going to do a full mechanical inspection before parting with your money (you know you can pay someone to do that before you fly over? Highly recommended!) then if the car has been driving around anyway, you should be able to give it a once over without getting too carried away checking timing belts etc - basically just do a bit more thorough daily drive check, make sure you look at anything with a yellow cap under the bonnet! Oil, Water, fan & A/c belts, brake fluid, brakes themselves, lights, tyres, etc; then give it a bit of a drive before heading off properly. If it hasn't started to overheat within about 30-40 mins, it probably won't at all, unless it's very hot &/or you push it harder than it's used to being pushed, so an easy drive back shouldn't be out of order. So I'd only take basic tools & probably not bother with the spares until I saw what sort of condition it was in, and only then get whatever I thought I might need. And then a gentle trip back should identify any issues it is likely to have, these things tend to just poke along anyway.

But then others might have some different ideas.

Good Luck

[Psimpson7]

What year is it?

Can give you some specific suggestions then.

cheers

[TBRodeo45]

1996, its still on gumtree
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mordiall ... 1012389970

mostly things that may go wrong that have a 'trick' to fix or look for would help.
also things like does it need special type of coolant and oil for 300000klms that anyone swears by.
I'm very mechanically minded and do everything myself but always ask someone with experience first.

Im buying it to 'tinker' with as my rodeo had nothing to do on it and was a bit 'standard' in terms of cars, these things are cool, no matter your age

[Psimpson7]

As the other Peter mentions, check the fluids are all topped up before you leave and maybe stop again after 100km or so and check again as you have just bought it.

Oil, water, brake fluid, etc. greasing UJ' swouldnt do any harm either, Tyre pressures, and maybe jack it up and check how the wheel bearings feel if you are really keen.

Check you have a jack, wheel brace and spare for the trip home!

When you get it home I would change all the oils.

Gearbox - Castrol Syntrans if you can justify it, otherise vmx80 or similar.
Transfer case: 80w90 hypoid gear oil
Diffs: as above
Steering swivels: as above
Engine: have a search on aulro.com as Tdi's arent my speciality

I would probably give it a fairly extended check over actually when you got back, including the brakes, hoses, etc etc.. anything that looks sus you could replace.

They do have a timing belt so check the history and if you cant find it having being changed recently, do it just in case.

They dont like being overheated so keeping the cooling system in top shape is wise.

good luck. They are pretty simple and easy to work on aswell.

[TBRodeo45]

Great thanks, i will be keeping a eye on the temp on the way home, leaving a spare day to get back just incase too so we won't be rushing home if anything is suss.

Cheers

[TBRodeo45]

Hi all,

so i got to melb ok, plane didn't crash, picked up the 110, did a few quick checks and replaced some oils (everything is tagged under the bonnet too with mms noted (originally from ocean grove if anyone may know the vehicle from new), found receipts for all work done from new BONUS, drove it home, didn't overheat or burst into flames after the first 600km but when the sun went down and i had the first opportunity to flick on the high beams....darkness. seems the high beams may be shorting or cancelling all the lights. It illuminates the dash but cancels driving lights and parkers. thought we checked all the lights before we left but clearly we didn't. Any ideas??

Also rear main seal leaking, had the same issue on my rodeo so not too concerned but where in adel is a good place (honest and well priced) to take it to get a quote, or is it easy enough to do myself, can get access to a lift and have done them before on other non 4wds.

Other than those two things i would consider it in really good nic, even has good meat on the tyres-spare inc, lucky get for the price.

[dazzy170]

have a quick look at the relays behind the dash i had a simular issue and was just a lose relay that got knocked out when i was fiddling with some wires behind there

[2stroke]

The headlights have 2 relays on the firewall in front of the gear lever (fuses here too), could be loose or faulty, also full headlight current goes through the dip switch and these often fail if higher wattage bulbs are fitted. You can safely drop the transmission and do the rear main if you remove the front floors and tunnel (bolt in), save some coin and get to know your new "friend" while you check for rust. Timing belt is done at 60k also easy to do at home. I've been driving one for over 10 years now, still happy with it.