Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Terrano, 720, X-Trail
terra
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Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by terra » July 13th, 2010, 7:13 pm

Info thread to help owners of the Nissan Terrano II 2.7TDi Aust delivery 1997-99.
Please use thread for adding info & try to keep it clear of chit-chat.

The following compilation lists part #, non-Nissan parts suppliers, vehicle specs & basic info about simple maintenance. It is not exhaustive, you are wise to treat it as a general guide & check the info before committing to it.

I hope it is of assistance. No responsibility is taken for how you apply info.

Free Factory Manual can be found here (download all sections)
"http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/"

Some engine components same as Pathy/Navara/Terrano I WD21 2.7TD - but most aren?t.
(The 'i' in the TDi engine code results in many differences). Searching for parts may find compatible info & components from UK (Right Hand drive).
Some '97 models had Hitachi engine controls (& throttle valve on intercooler) whilst later models used Bosch.

Engine Oil Filter: Ryco Z503 (very slightly smaller & fits best), also Repco ROF64 & Valvoline units.
Need approx 7.5L of suitable Turbo Diesel 4WD oil. Access filter through wheel arch.
For mess free filter change: Drain oil. Replace sump plug. Turn engine over for 2 secs. Redrain. Place plastic bags under/around existing filter. Punch & carefully remove. Replace sump plug & fit new filter 3/4 full of oil. Re-fit all plugs and caps. Check oil level before and after running engine.

Oil Pressure: Idle Speed: more than 78 kpa. At 3000 rpm: 294 - 392 kpa.

Fuel Filter: Ryco Z332 or Repco RDF4. Change regularly ~10K km. Secondary CAV filter kit can be fitted.
(Drain filter into container, punch & remove, remove fittings w/- pliers, grease threads, prime. Ensure no leaks!)

Injectors: Remove & have serviced to save $$$. Nozzles @ ~$60 ea + shim labour.
Non genuine no.1 injector ~$250, it's a special unit with sensor so look after it. Can buy direct from Bosch etc.

Glow Plugs: Torque 20Nm Max!! Champion CH162. (NGK Y-707RS. Denso DG120. Nissan 11065-63G00).
Glow plugs can burn out - engine won't start. Check for 12V, then remove buzzbar, check 0.5 Ohm at each plug.

Diesel pump: "Zexel COVEC - Fitted to Nissan TD27Ti, QD32Ti & Isuzu 4JG2" (Check this).
Pump has cutoff solenoid that may stick (test for approx 11-12V, and/or remove & free it up as required).
Mesh screen in pump can clog (remove and clean, check for other debris. Ensure cleanliness when doing this).
Internal springs may collapse & give rough running (need to replace).
Electronic controller may fail & give rough running/idle (replace at approx $320).
Complete pump rebuild is expensive so check the above faults first. Change fuel filter regularly!!

Idle Speed: With A/c on 850 rpm +/- 50. Without A/c on 700 +/- 50.

Valve clearance: Must be hot when set: 0.25 mm for exhaust/Intake.

Air Sensor: If Bosch, buy from Bosch save $. Hitachi unit #AFH7014 (Nissan #226802J200) available aftermarket. Hitachi unit also on Pathfinder R50 V6 VG33E & Infiniti etc. Equiv to Hella 8ET009142401.
Remove & GENTLY clean sensor with contact cleaner spray, allow to dry, carefully replace, ensure sealed.

Airfilter: Wesfil WA1041 (Brookvale, NSW) ~$30. Nissan # 16546-7F000. Do not use OILED unifilter etc they damage air sensor.
Gently Vac out filter box & air sensor mesh whilst changing filter. Ensure no air leaks.

Snorkel: Airtec model for a '98+ Courier fits well, w/- airbox mods. Also kit from "Airflow" now available.

Waterpump: PBR, Protex & Repco etc @ 1/2 Nissan price. Same as D21 2.7TD (143mm hole spaces).
Drain water at bottom hose or rad drain tap. Remove rad and old pump. Fit new pump, refit rad & fill. Easy job.

Fanbelts: Alternator & Powersteer = 13A1150. A/c = 13A925. (13A = belt shape. 925 & 1150 = belt length).
Fan Belt deflection: Alt = 11-13 mm. Air Cond = 6-7.5 mm. P Steer = 8-9.5 mm. (All defl' with 98N force).

Radiator: Larger capacity radiator available from PWR. "www.pwr.com.au" for ~$900.
Cooling System: 10L including reservoir. Ethyl Glycol antifreeze.
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure: 78 - 98 kpa
Thermostat: Start to open @ 82 deg C. Fully Open @ 95 deg C (Note: Aust & import cars may be different).
Many Terrano IIs run hot (mine doesn't). Check cooling system & check viscous fan clutch.

Alternator: Bosch BX310051 (type KC-14V 70A). Also Hitachi unit.
Starter motor: Nissan #23300-10T02. Hitachi #S13-107A (2.5kW, 12V 9T CW). Non genuine ~$500 (genuine ~$1100). Can also be rebuilt @ ~$250. Same as TD27 etc.
Dual Battery: Piranha do a battery tray (sits behind left headlight). Part # BTNTD. Or make your own.

Clutch: PBR did a kit, probably others do too. There are 2 throw out bearing sizes, quote VIN# etc for correct size.
Clutch Master Cylinder: Nissan #306107F000. Girling #1202804. 15.9mm bore. Check # with Girling.
Clutch Slave Cylinder: Nissan #3062041L00. Girling #1104253. Also 300ZX. 19mm bore. Check # w/-Girling.
Bleed clutch at fitting near right rear wheel.

Engine: Full rebuild kit, gasket kits, pistons, rings, valve regrind kits available from ACL (also via Repco).
Head Gasket: ACL do 3 thicknesses. 1.05mm (#AA5190), 1.15mm (#AA5200 ), 1.25mm (#AA5210).

Turbo: TB25. Nissan #14411-7F400. (Garret # 452162-0001. Service kit # 709143-0001. Gasket # 215110).

Engine mount: Genuine left = $130. Mackay Rubber also do them (#A5085 & A5092) probably cheaper.

Airconditioner Condenser: Hella part # 8FC 351 301-011.

Gearbox: FS5R30A. 5.1L of API-GL4 oil. (3.58/2.077/1.36/1.0/0.811:1 ratios). Similar/same as some Patrols, V6 Navara, 300ZX?

Transfer case: TX10A. 2.3L API GL4 or Dexron. (1:2.02 low ratio). Similar/same as Patrol.
(Marks Adaptors have 2 lower ratios available & Calmini make lower 3.9:1 ratio gears. Check for correct fit).

Propshafts: Front = OF71H. Rear = 2S80B. Grease all universal joints regularly.
Tailshaft Uni: Bearing caps 27mm across, 82mm from cap top-to-top. Cross ends are 16.5mm. Try Autopro ofr the uni's.

terra
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Joined: August 11th, 2004, 10:42 am

Unread post by terra » July 13th, 2010, 7:16 pm

Part 2:

Suspension and Steering is mostly the same as certain WD21 model Pathfinders with some important exceptions:

Brake Master Cylinder: Nissan #460107F025 $$$. Girling #4008348. TRW may be able to supply also.
Girling UK do discs, pads, shoes, master cylinders, wheel cylinders, & brake boosters. TRW might supply also.
Rear brakes need drum removal to be adjusted (you get good at it). Handbrake requires adjustment and cables can sometime stick. Free them up and lube cables.

Rear Diff: HB233B (4.375:1 ratio). Uses 2.8L of API GL5, SAE80-90 LSD oil. Same as some Patrols & some WD21 Pathy. 1.26" diameter, 31 spline axles.
Can buy Locking diff centres from: ARB, TruTrac (Detroit), Lockright, Lokka. Can also increase pretension on LSD.
Rear Wheel Bearing: ***# 713 6138 50. Same # for D22 Nav (that's D22 not D21). Also "www.bsc.com.au" do front & rear wheel bearing kits.
Rear Brake: "www.atap.com.au" do shoes, Part# N3031. Or re-shoe @ BertBros, NSW ~$60. Check drum diam.
Rear Brake Wheel Cylinders: "www.atap.com.au" Australian Truck & Auto Parts. Part # 210C0408. Bore = 25.4mm. OEM # 44100-7F001. Girling #5008287. Possible TRW part also.

Front Diff: R180 (4.375:1 ratio). 1.3L of API GL5 oil. Can buy locking centre from Lokka, & LSD's from Calmini, & some Nissan 240/260/280Z cars.
Front wheel Bearing kit: SKF @ $65/side w/- seal. Also CBC, ABC & BSC. Same as Pathy WD21/ D21.
Front Driveshafts: 5 bolt flange, 28 spline outer, Repco etc (same as SOME Pathy WD21 manual 92-95?).
Front CV boots: Outers available from AutoPro. But inners have 3 scallops on housing - check before buying!
Locking hubs: AVM sell manual hubs @ ~$200. Most D21 & WD21 hubs should fit, but check 28 splines etc. The standard auto hubs can get 'sticky' and may need disassembly, cleaning and relube. See factory manual.
Front Brake: Pathfinder WD21 & D21 pads. Disc Brakes Australia do discs. Diam 277mm. (min thick 24mm).

Power Steering: 1.0L Dexron. Has ZF 28 spline steering box. Steering box is NOT the same as Pathy WD21/D21, 28 or 44 spline! They mount differently to the chassis and are plumbed differently.
You can tighten the steering box if it becomes sloppy. Access the tension screw under the battery. Only tighten a 1/4 turn then check again. Be sure to re-tighten locknut without moving the adjuster. A seal kit is available, search the www or head to a bearing supplier with the code on the seal.

Draglink: Same as some Pathy WD21 / D21. Part# TR4680, check ALL pin tapers as these can be different for certain years. The draglink and idler arm are the biggest tyre wear and poor handling culprits on Terrano II (followed by control arm bushes and ball joints).
Tie rod ends: TRW part # = Inner TTE4752. Outer TTE751. Same as some Pathy WHYD21 '92-'95.
Idler arm: VERY similar to Pathy WD21. Line up with OEM idler. Match & file holes to suit. Handling culprit.
Replacement idler arm bushes can be bought from superpro etc, but often don't fit tight and allow sloppy idler. Perhaps replace with genuine bushes. Or have someone machine up some bronze bushes. Can drill idler for grease nipple if not already fitted. Idler and draglink are usually responsible for poor handling and tyre wear.
Ball Joints: TRW part # = Upper TBJ205. Lower TNJ2029 & TBJ815. Same as some Pathy WHYD21 '92-'95.

Suspension Bushes: All same as Pathy WD21. (Pedders, Superpro, Nolathane, Whiteline etc). But check if possible as some brands don?t fit perfectly. Front upper & lower control arm bushes wear, effecting alignment and handling. Swaybar mounts on lower control arm usually wear & can squeak.

Shock absorbers: Front same as Pathy WD21. Rear same # as Old Man Emu Triton MK, & MH/MJ V6.
Front lower shock bushes can deteriorate and squeak. Ensure new 'large' shocks fit inside upper control arm.
Front Torsion Bars: H'duty from Sway-Away & others. Ensure they suit weight of diesel engine.
Standard units sag and can be wound-up, a bit. Don't wind up too much beyond standard as handling is effected.
Rear springs: Aftermarket springs and rubber airbags available from usual suppliers.

Bullbar: ECB (airbag approved) & Formula Offroad (suits winch, not airbag approved - not sure it matters).

Headlight Protectors: Worth having. Nissan OEM $$$. EGR group in UK sells them. Probably others do too.
Headlights: Hard to find original spares. Long nose pliers remove alloy cone in front of globe & improves light.
Hella make non-original replacements, they replace whole light fitting. 1ED 964 210-211. & 221.

Window covers: (shade cloth for rear door windows) 'Shevron' brand.

Crank case vent and EGR valve: (Disclaimer - perform these mods at own risk)
These parts conspire to fill your engine with soot and will reduce performance or can even kill the turbo etc.
For crank case vent either fit a secondary air/oil separator (also clean out standard unit & hoses while you are at it). OR make an oil catch can, vent seperater into catch can and blank off hole in turbo inlet duct (not legal).
For EGR valve make blanking gasket out of steel sheet etc. Mod is not legal, but will make your engine run better and longer.
Last edited by terra on July 23rd, 2012, 11:37 am, edited 3 times in total.

Terranosaurus II
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by Terranosaurus II » July 22nd, 2012, 9:27 pm

Hi, can anyone tell me if the 3" lift control arms for WD21 from 4x4parts and calmini would fit the Terrano II? These- http://www.purenissan.com/control_arms.htm
or these- https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfin ... -p-45.html

terra
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by terra » July 23rd, 2012, 11:25 am

I haven't fitted the upper control arms that allow for more lift.
The arms themselves don't lift the vehicle they reposition the droop bumpstop and upper balljoint so you can raise the front end by indexing/adjusting the torsion bars. You will probably need to do something with the steering too as it will wear quickly with raised suspension. If you spend some time googling around the www you will come across mention of people who HAVE fitted the Calmini arms to a Terrano II. Do some searches to satisfy yourself before buying.

I have fitted a RHD version of the Calmini steering set-up. It took a LOT of mucking around and modification (Fitting post '93 Pathfinder steering box with bigger output shaft, which required modifying the steering box mounts and powersteering plumbing etc etc). End result was very good but a LOT of hassle.


If you know a friendly racecar fabricator type person and have access to wheel alignment equipment it might be better/cheaper to modify your own arms.
The goal of the modified arms is to:
1) Give more clearance between the upper (droop travel) bumpstop and control arm.
2) Alter angle of upper ball joint to allow greater range of droop travel before it binds.
3) provide a slightly different length upper arm to allow for camber change when raising vehicle.
4) Allow clearance between shock absorber and upper arm at (new) maximum droop position.

These things can be achieved with a ball joint spacer BUT the ball joint spacers put extra stress on the upper arm and the upper arm can fail if not plated and reinforced.

Hope this helps.

Terranosaurus II
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by Terranosaurus II » July 25th, 2012, 5:04 pm

Ok sweet cheers, I'll prob just go the spacer way and reinforce the control arms, quarter the price of calmini and 4x4parts lift kits

Singlespeeder
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by Singlespeeder » August 17th, 2012, 12:56 am

Hi there,

A friend has just put the Nissan 4x4 Arms in his Terrano II. There are two versions that fit.

The shorter 720 utes if you have too much positive camber at standard height and only want to lift it 2 inches. The other ones are a touch longer from the WD21 and are apparently greater for a 3 inch lift. These second ones are heading my way as I have a HD Long Travel Rear springs in mine and should match up nice.

Also you will need to at least run an steering idler arm brace as the idler arm shaft is weak with larger wheels. Plus check out http://grassroots4x4.com/ for a beefed up steering link. Better and cheaper than Calmini and fits with no mods. This will be on the shopping list later. I'm desperately trying to find a cargo barrier that fits since Milford will not make them no more....

Cheers,

Paul

Singlespeeder
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by Singlespeeder » August 17th, 2012, 1:00 am

Btw thanks Terra for all the info you have posted. I have been using this info since picking up a 1999 RX late last year.

Have had a few issues to deal with but has been a great little truck if not a bit thirstier than I thought it should be.

Thanks,

jimmyTdi
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by jimmyTdi » September 11th, 2012, 12:24 pm

re Upper Control Arms

The ones from https://www.4x4parts.com are really tuff and good quality. There bushings are very good also and service was fantastic. Dont use their onlins system when ordering as postage is very expensive. Just email the contact (Mike) and he will organise paypal invoice and ship arms to AUS for $60 - Thats $260 delivered!. Shipping took <14 days.

As singlespeeder said (I'm the one he is talking about) the arms to use are:

3" lift option - If you can get stock camber settings to stock, or preferably slightly negative camber with at least 15mm space between bumpstop the use the pathfinder arms - SKU: SPAC0110

2-2.5" lift option - for those (like me) that just cant get anywhere near neutral or neg camber stock (a good check is when you crank bars to 15mm bump stop clearance your wheels are "noticeably" positive camber. Then uses these arms from the 720 pickup: SKU: SPAC0120 (just check with Mick but they are 10mm shorter than stock). Worst case if too negative you just space out control arm with washers (wont need much and bolts easily are adequate).

Singlespeeder
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by Singlespeeder » September 11th, 2012, 8:31 pm

Hi all,

I need to ask if any of you have opened up your exhaust on your T2 TDi? I have been told that if you open up your exhaust 2 1/2 - 3 inch that T2's are prone to going into limp home mode. I can't understand why it would happen considering there is no boost sensor or exhaust temp monitored by the ecu.

I assume some of you have opened up the exhaust has anybody had an issue?

Also if you have opened up the exhaust did it drop the engine temp when under load, i.e. up a hill, towing a heavy trailer, sand driving.

Thanks,

terrano2buck
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by terrano2buck » October 13th, 2012, 9:47 pm

I just put on a 2.5in mandrel bent system in Cairns. Seems to be running slightly cooler and is a lot better up through the gears. Surely larger exhaust has got to be better for the engine. I was told however 3""is too big for the 2.7TDi.

terrano2buck
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by terrano2buck » October 14th, 2012, 9:18 pm

There is a place in Victoria called Niss4x4. I have found them to be excellent for spare parts. You can't buy anything off Nissan for the T2. It is too expensive and they usually have to order it from Japan and it takes weeks. Ebay is a good way to get parts also. I bashed up a centre drag link steering assembly on a rock . Nissan wanted $625 for a new one. I got a brand new one off Ebay for $90 and it is fine. Big difference hey.

Singlespeeder
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by Singlespeeder » October 23rd, 2012, 12:33 pm

Hey terrano2buck,

Thanks for your information here and on your other threads on your success with your chip and exhaust combo. Very impressive figures.
Did you see a difference with running temperature under load (like up a big hill) after fitting the chip?

I was going to get a 2 1/2 in exhaust including dump done 3 weeks ago and a Steinbauer module. Unfortunately I have had an accident and now dealing with a broken femur and shattered heel. So I'll have to wait until we deal with all the medical bills before moving ahead. Plus I will not be driving the truck for at least 3 months.

Also I agree with you on the Lokka for the front. Seems to be the best bang for bucks. Air Lockers are way overpriced here.

Good luck and let us know how your great truck goes off road. Pics would be great.

terrano2buck
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by terrano2buck » October 25th, 2012, 10:21 pm

Mate good luck with the recovery. Hope all goes well. Temp seems to be the same. Sits well under 1/2 until I get up to 100kph on the highway then it gets up to about 1/2 way on the temp gauge. No big concerns with temp by the look of it. Standby for pics in the next couple of weeks.

terrano2buck
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by terrano2buck » May 2nd, 2013, 9:24 pm

Anyone got a rear bar for the T=Rex? Like to put a couple of fuel jerries on the back.

Singlespeeder
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Re: Terrano II parts info and specs thread.

Unread post by Singlespeeder » May 3rd, 2013, 11:25 pm

JimmyTdi has asked http://www.kcworkstubebars.com about making a rear bar with dual rear wheel carriers for the T2. They said yes but will need the truck to build it. Glad to read on other threads your truck is going well.

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