09 d22 2.5l hard to start

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09 d22 2.5l hard to start

Unread post by shaneo74 » April 10th, 2017, 9:37 am

Hey guys I own a d22 2.5l . When I start the car in morning it's hard to start it will start but stalls straight away , then when I try to start again it takes about four goes to start . But if I turn the heat switch on it starts straight away at high idle .. my mechanic has suggested that it seems like a fuel pressure problem as in the fuel isnt holding in the fuel rail . Any suggestions or thoughts on what it could be thanks

Peter Aawen
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Re: 09 d22 2.5l hard to start

Unread post by Peter Aawen » April 10th, 2017, 3:03 pm

So it does this if you don't use the 'heat switch' (is that the pre-heat or Glow system?) & your mechanic thinks it's a fuel pressure problem?? Is your mechanic a Diesel mechanic or is there other stuff going on that we haven't heard yet?? :o

Most diesel engines have pre-heat systems of some sort (ie glow plugs or pre-heaters etc) & it's generally recommended that you use &/or wait for the pre-heat/glow system to do its thing before the first start every morning, especially coldish mornings.... cos if you don't do this it's very likely to stall straight away &/or cough & splutter & belch light grey smoke from all the unburnt fuel because the cylinders don't have enough heat in them to start on compression alone; and if it doesn't start first up without the pre-heat, then it's very likely that it'll take maybe 4 or more tries before the engine eventually gets enough heat into the cylinders to actually start burning the diesel properly & running properly!!

So maybe you could try using the heat switch for EVERY first start of the day, especially once the over-night temps start dropping below about 15-18 deg C. If it starts every time when you do that, then you've solved your problem haven't you?? ;)
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Re: 09 d22 2.5l hard to start

Unread post by mydmax » April 10th, 2017, 3:27 pm

You are the proud owner of a CRD engine which will lose it's rail pressure when stopped. So what, all of them do, the Muckanik should know that if a real mechanic with some knowledge of engines. Many do not. The instant you crank it the high pressure pump restores that rail pressure so normal injection can occur.The mechanic should also know that too.

As Peter said, when temps get lower the instantaneous heat developed in the cylinder due to only compression just isn't enough to fire the sprayed in diesel. Some additional heat is required from somewhere. IF your cranking speed is low that instantaneous heat in the cylinder will be lower because compression is happening slightly slower. That leaves more milliseconds of time to lose valuable "heat of compression" into the piston crown and cylinder walls so the diesel ignition is less or not effective at all. If cylinder compression is less than normal, that will make it worse as there is less heat of compression developed because there is less compression pressure in a given time.

A fast crank is essential, along with glowplugs working correctly.
On cold days you may need as mentioned, to turn the key to ON a couple of times to make the glowplugs give some residual heat so it will fire and run reliably.

To test if air heat is the issue, place your hair dryer so it heats the airbox of the vehicle and the intake air and intake piping is warmed. Then do the first start of the day. If it starts and runs ok/smoothly, then it is the coldness of intake air which is the problem.

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