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2H low oil pressure problem

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2H low oil pressure problem

Hi all,

New to this group, but I have read a few forums in the past. I have a 1989 Troopy with a 2H. It has some low oil pressure problems and are starting to scare me. On idle the gauge will just sit above the L mark. The lowest notch. And at 2000rpm it sits just under the 2nd notch from the bottom.

My mechanic reckons it could be the oil pump, or main end bearings. I am not sure as there is no definite knock or sound. She has only just done 280 000km and this should not happen :cry:. Apparently it is unusual for a 2H to have problems with it's oil pump at this young age. I have service it completely since 210k. Maybe the damage was done before hand? :crazy:.

A rebuild might be on the cards as well. Has anyone rebuilt a 2H themselves to turbo specs? for the future.

Thanks in advance. Sorry if this question has been asked on here before.

Unread postby naasie » June 22nd, 2009, 7:23 pm


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A rebuild seems to cost upwards of $11,000.... I'm not too sure what the difference between reconditioned and rebuild is. If you do a search someone else has just completed a full rebuild - that price also included the injector pump which was $2,500 as well.

The more you read into the mighty 2H and 12-HT (I really, really, want a 12-HT and i'm accepting donations...) the more you realise just how good they are. They are not chain / belt driven at all. 2 valves per cylinder, high tolerance to poor fuel, basically a truck sorced inline injector pump and slow reving. They are designed to be used hard and last a lifetime!! Here's a few things i've come across:

1.) Don't go on short trips: the produce a lot of soot and you'll end up with sludge - not good.

2.) Don't be afraid to rev them: Not to red line!! When you're ticking over at 70km, it's temping to put it into 5th. DON'T!! 5th gear is weak on the toyota box, and you'll "lug" the engine. It actually loves to rev freely at about 2,200 - 2,500. If you approach a hill, put it back into forth at about 90km. Old style diesels do rev out ok at their "sweet spot".

3.) Change the oil regularly: I drive to the city each day and do mostly freeway driving. I change my oil and at about 4,500km. Usually every 2.5 months at the moment. It's cheap insurance.

4.) Adust the tappets every 40,000km, and get the injectors / injector pump serviced every 250,000km.

People knock them for being "slow". The 2H's are, but they are possible the toughest bullet proof motor in a 4x4 (yes, the nissan 4.2 is good as well...)
1985 HJ-60 2H Naturally Asperated Slug.

Unread postby mr_diesel60 » June 22nd, 2009, 10:42 pm


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dont worry aboout it the 2h gauges - all of em get notoriously innacurate with age.
if you really do have low pressure the motor will cut out anyway - there is a low oil pressure cut out solonoid

Unread postby davoee » June 23rd, 2009, 1:33 am


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davoee wrote:dont worry aboout it the 2h gauges - all of em get notoriously innacurate with age.
if you really do have low pressure the motor will cut out anyway - there is a low oil pressure cut out solonoid


Um... id still be getting this checked out though....
1985 HJ-60 2H Naturally Asperated Slug.

Unread postby mr_diesel60 » June 23rd, 2009, 3:48 am


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mr_diesel60 wrote:Um... id still be getting this checked out though....

not really - mine was exactly the same

Unread postby davoee » June 23rd, 2009, 7:43 am


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mr_diesel60 wrote:A rebuild seems to cost upwards of $11,000.... I'm not too sure what the difference between reconditioned and rebuild is. If you do a search someone else has just completed a full rebuild - that price also included the injector pump which was $2,500 as well.

They aren't cheap, but I'd expect much less than that. Old guy I know got his 2H done and I'm pretty sure it was $6,500 all told (but he didn't need his pump done). Shop around, quotes are free.

Unread postby nilla60 » June 23rd, 2009, 3:16 pm


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First off,
DONT PANIC, well not yet anyway.
First change your oil and oil filter with quality products.
Is it leaving huge clouds of blue smoke behind you?
Is it blowing heavily throught the oil filler hole with the cap off?
No?
Go and have the oil pressure checked with an ACCURATE mechanical oil pressure gauge,(not some $20 dollar ebay special) you should be able to plumb one in near the oil filter or where the current sender screws in, fit it bleed it and see what it reads.
If it reads low check its not haemorrhaging oil in any large quantities, if not check the oil pressure relief valve isn't stuck partially open, replace it if its suspect and check pressures again, work up to changing the oil pump and repeat the pressure test.
If all checks out well, try cleaning all of the electrical earths to the engine and chassis and check the wiring to the oil pressure gauge and see if the reading improve, if not replace the sender.
If after all this it still has very low oil pressure try changing the big end bearing shells and try again.
Start small and cheap and then work your way up to big and expensive.
If its running well, not blowing a lot of BLUE smoke, leaving large puddles, and making a rattling dogga, dogga,dogga sound its probably an indication problem.
Cheers

Unread postby dhc4ever » June 23rd, 2009, 5:16 pm


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Thanks to everyone for your help and advice. It is hard to find people that are into old cruisers!

I had the troopy at the mechanic last week because they had to repair a previous job that they have done. So while it was there I asked them to replace this "oil sensor" near the starter motor. Since then it all of a sudden has low oil pressure. This doesn't make sense to me. So was the old sender faulty?

I am trying to organize for them to check it with a proper oil pressure gauge. They still reckon it is the oil pump. I don't mind rebuilding it, but I don't want to spent money on it if it's still ok. All they have is "we think...". I know this is hard but there must be more tests that you can do?

To answer some of your questions:

I service the troopy every 5000km with new oil filter (repco or Ryco) and new oil (penrite 20W60). I also do a few other things, like blow out the air filter and check anything that I suspect might be worn.

I have only done the servicing since 210 000km. Now it is on 280 000km.

It is not burning massive amount of oil. So far only just a bit over 5000km. I would like to check the oil pressure relief valve. But I am not sure how to do this. I think it sits inside the oil pump. Do you have to jump inside the oil pump to get to it?

I have recently had the injector pump rebuild and always drive it the way you are suppose to drive an old diesel.

Some have told me it needs a motor rebuild and some reckon the oil pump needs rebuilding. I am happy to spent money on the old girl as long as it fixes the problem. I suppose a process of elimination needs to be applied. I might have to start with the relief valve and the oil pump.
GO THE TROOPY

Unread postby naasie » June 23rd, 2009, 7:58 pm



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