is this overkill

Subaru, Lada, Oka, etc.
tufflux88
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Unread post by tufflux88 » February 13th, 2010, 7:23 pm

Mick. wrote:Even if that bar was alloy it would still be heaps stronger then an ARB or TJM bar which are both pretty piss weak cheap production crap. You don't have to be an engineer to see that bar looks 10 times better built then them and it also has the grills at the front to protect against birds and stones going threw your grill and radiator which neither ARB or TJM bars have.

It seems a bit pricey but it does have the side rails and side steps built in which is all additional costs when buying ARB or TJM. Anyone who has travelled those sort of roads and hit a roo and been stranded in the middle of nowhere in the middle of the night will tell you it's worth every cent.

I'm sure if you don't want the lower section of the bar they could build one without but if your 4wd is an outback truck and not an off road weekend warrior then the aproach angle isn't really going to be a drama anyway.

Good luck with your choice mate.

Cheers Mick.

arent you meant to be helping TJM sell products mick lol

LUX253
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Unread post by LUX253 » February 15th, 2010, 1:36 pm

bxoffrdr wrote:Why do people on this forum have to make others feel like dickheads for asking a simple question? Either you like it or you dont, sure give him some other ideas, but making him look like a dickhead because he likes something different from you guys is a ***** go. Just my 2 cents worth

Im not personally into the huge bullbar look (my current GQ has a stock bar) but i know some people are and i have not had too many close call with roo's either

not many people suggesting alternatives though!

I work at a Toyota/Mazda dealership and my personal experience telsl me that these huge bars are not really suited to the front of the RANGER/BT-50. I would look at a good steel ARB bar (budget bar about $1200) and just make sure your Insurance is up to date and includes your new bar - that way if you do hit a roo you will be protected and get a new bar, i dunno how the big 5 post'ers go with insurance.

as i said if you like that look go for it but i prefer the smaller (stonger maybe) ARB type stuff

danieldohrman
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Unread post by danieldohrman » February 15th, 2010, 1:59 pm

it is way overkill and not needed. I ve lived in the country with big roo and hit lots of them too and all i can say is any bullbar of any design from arb - tjm are great. Even alloy bars hitting 6ft roo at 110kmh yes the stand up to it fine. But a bullbar that amazes me time and time again is the poly bar made by ecb. I have seen these on rodeo, landcruiser and a patrol. These work amazingly when you hit a roo. The soften the blow when you hit a roo, they deform for a short time then go back to there original shape. With these bar i haven't seen vehicle damage in a long tim.
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Hunno
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Unread post by Hunno » February 16th, 2010, 12:07 pm

beastmaster63 wrote:ooooooohh wwwwwwwwwwwoooooooooooowwwwwwwwww

look honey a $40k bull bar and they even throw in a new ute :truck: to carry it, and on the weekends i can go grading me mates driveway with it and clear felling the forests n all :crazy:

yeeeeee haaaawwwww!

B&S here we come giddy up:drink:

yup just a little over kill LOLOLOOL:p

It would make the rear end very light for the B&S circle work I've seen some of the Idots do.

GBC
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Unread post by GBC » February 16th, 2010, 4:48 pm

Nice hopper knocker - if I lived that far out I'd have one. The low part is for pigs - they take out the running gear.

d3m0n1c_4b
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Unread post by d3m0n1c_4b » February 21st, 2010, 8:23 am

everything has it's purpose. if i happened to move out to the country, i'd prob be looking for something similar, i've seen the damage from the roo's and personally wouldn't risk it.

it is pretty out there, is there any possible alternative that has the same protection mate? nodoubt it would do the job, and the sevurity of it would prob make the money worth it imo, just it is going to be hell heavy on your front end. What vehicle do you have?
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Edwards
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Unread post by Edwards » February 21st, 2010, 5:29 pm

I live in Broken Hill i believe that a arb bar is strong enough, but each to their own opinion.
And i am pretty sure that thouse TUFF bars are alloy and over a large amount of rough dirt roads and a roo or two the bar to body mount breaks!
My advice is to go arb with side rails for that price :)
hope this helps

44-40
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Unread post by 44-40 » February 21st, 2010, 5:40 pm

Yep.....its a wank bar alright.
just needs about 8 sets of spotlights. 12 aerials, CAT mudflaps, a couple of hundred B&S stickers and a Bundy rum sticker!

LOL

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Unread post by grimbo » February 21st, 2010, 6:24 pm

I'd be worried of the damage to the vehicle from a hard hit. Newer vehicles are made to absorb hits more than the old WB uTes were. With a new car and a bullbar specifaclly designed for it like an ARB or TJM, the bullbar is meant to absorb the strike without transferring the hot to the occupants. One of those monstrosities wouldn't do that I reckon
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Lugh
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Unread post by Lugh » February 21st, 2010, 7:04 pm

I picked up a copy of Utes Anual the other day, and frankly it's a bit minimalist mate. I think there is much better protection available. :D
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rodw
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Unread post by rodw » February 21st, 2010, 7:43 pm

GBC wrote:Nice hopper knocker - if I lived that far out I'd have one. The low part is for pigs - they take out the running gear.


Finally after 4 pages of drivel, I actually found a comment from somebody who actually what this sort of bar is designed to do.

When you live out west where the world is flat as a tack and bore drains carry water on a slope of 3 foot to the mile, approach angle means Jack **** becasue there is nothing anywhere that will snag you up. But there are a few things that any good bar should do.

When driving out in that country, the objective is to get where you are going because if you don't get there, it might be a week before the next car comes along. That low down pig bar to stop them taking out the steering. It also important to make sure the radiator is not holed and finally it is critical to protect the headlights.

This bar satisifes these criteria very well! If you bought an ARB bar with matching sidesteps, the cost would be similar but nowhere near as robust. The ARB one does not address the pig bar unfortunately (and I have seen a fee people stranded from a pig strike).

To my mind, it is fantastic to see that there are companies manufacturing bullbars that encompass all of the desirable features of a bull bar that are ADR compliant! I did not think it was possible!

My advice is to ignore the comments from guys liviing suburbia and go for it mate! (but listen to the comments about mounting problems)
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xul
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Unread post by xul » February 21st, 2010, 8:01 pm

I was under the impression it isn't ADR compliant? I'd be hugely concerned about what would happen to your ute in the event of a strike at 110k's though.

Discounting pigs, an ARB bar would be more than sufficient for roo strikes. Heck I have an alloy ECB big tube bar and have hit roos at ~80ks with nothing to show for it. My tip from a fair amount of country driving (and one that makes all the difference between a written off truck and a non written off truck) is to drive at about 90ks, you stop faster, have more time to react and won't hit as hard.

Unless you are impatient like a lot of people, that extra 20km in an hour isn't really a whole lot when weighed up against the pros.

Go for the bar if you want it, but I wouldn't reccomend it, except for the pig bar part.

utekid2
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Unread post by utekid2 » February 21st, 2010, 8:16 pm

rodw

X2 that i have two utes not 4wd but hey here they are BA( blueys barjo buff bar) and a XH ( Boomer bar) stopped plenty of roos goats deers pretty much anythink that gets infront. purpose built not killers but like any of your 4wds can be(killers). Lifesavers i call em so dont knock the bloke bout his bar unless youve been round broken hill which i have been to many stations around that area. they are like bloody flies. Invite bring ya 4wds for a run through there at nite, see how tuff ya bar really is? we will see ya in the morning for a tow.
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danieldohrman
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Unread post by danieldohrman » February 21st, 2010, 9:55 pm

rodw

good luck with getting your bar. I dont understand the need for it honestly. When you hit something with that bar at speed yes you wont bend the bar instead your crumple your chassis. There is a reason why ie arb bar are only made with so much strength it is because any more strength and instead obsorbing the impact and not damaging your at all the bar bend a bit. Instead with your bar you hit a roo, pig whatever it is the bar doesn bend but there is still the energy from hit there and it is taken in the chasis of your resulting a writeoff and maybe no getting home at all because the shortening of the chassis has now pushed your radiator into the motor instead.

my 2c:crazy:
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Boozer
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Unread post by Boozer » May 30th, 2010, 8:32 pm

but will any bar stop manbearpig

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