Buying a Disco - worth the extra cash for a Disco11?

The original 4WD
RRF
I'm new, be nice!
Posts: 4
Joined: May 18th, 2011, 11:13 pm

Buying a Disco - worth the extra cash for a Disco11?

Unread post by RRF » January 12th, 2012, 8:02 pm

Hi need some advice looking at buying a used discovery 1998 se7 my other option is to buy a later model disco11 td5 more money. basically I cut my teeth in land rovers yes I have busted them and had to fix allot of thing never anything that hard they where s1 2 3 . now the disco is a whole new animal. my main thing I am asking is it worth the extra cash for the disco11 or not and what am I going to be getting extra for the money repair wise on these disco's are they reliable or not can most things be easy fixed or a major tech hassle am I going to kick myself going this way :) honest opinions plzz as I say I know nothing about discovery’s thanks people :frog:

Psimpson7
Moderator
Posts: 499
Joined: December 31st, 2007, 10:49 am
Location: SE QLD

Re: Buying a Disco

Unread post by Psimpson7 » January 13th, 2012, 8:35 am

Would I be correct in assuming the se7 is a tdi so you are comparing diesels?

The tdi is slower, especially if its an automatic, but it is far simpler. It will definetely have coil springs, the auto is a hydraullically controlled ZF (as opposed to electronically controlled on the D2), the manaul and transfer are the same on both, R380, and LT230.

The LT230 is a very strong transfer case, probably the best thing LR have made. They are still in use today in Defenders. The D1 will defienetly have the Centre diff lock, this was removed in some D2's Depending on the year they will either have, the mechanism but no lever, nothing atall, or it all replaced. Some D1's would have had the input gear which had no oil feed holes, and this wore the main shaft splines and input gear splines prematurely. On an Auto this is an easy fix as the back section of the shaft unbolts, but on a manual it requires more work (main shaft replacement in gearbox)

The r380 gearbox has undergone a few changes over the years and the D2 one (and Defender td5) is the best of them at what they term suffix L. The suffix K is very similar but the D1 will likely have the Suffix J, which while not bad, did suffer from occasional broken layshaft issues. This was improved and apparently designed out in the Suffix K but I did manage to break a Suffix L one!

The D1, with the 300tdi, will be mechanically fuel injected as opposed to the TD5 which uses Electrically controlled unit Injectors. They are both very good on fuel. I prefer the TD5 over the tdi but that is just me. I have done a lot of work on the 5 but only limited stuff on the tdi. (through choice)

Suspension. The D1 uses Radius arms and a panhard at the front, and trailing arms and a frame on the rear. These work very well. The D2 uses radius arms and panhard at the front (but with pivot bolts at the chassis end as opposed to the pin through bushes of the Defender and D1) but at the rear uses radius arms and watts linkage.

Watts Linkage is very good for road holding but does limit the rear travel slightly. The rear suspension on the D2 may also be air bags. These can leak. If they do start leaking replace them with new ones or you will be buying a new compressor too and they are expensive. If it is a 7 seater D2, it will be air sprung on the rear. (if its a factory 7 seater and has rear coils someone has swapped them as they were only approved as air sprung for the 7 seater)

The rear seats in the 7 seat D2 are far better than in the D1.

The D2 is a far more complex vehicle overall. It has a BCU, traction control, ABS (as do some D1's), Hill descent control etc etc. The abs/traction/hdc is known to generate a few issues on the D2 which is commonly refered to as the 3 amigoes.

Parts in general are no more expensive than toyota or Nissan ones. In some cases they may well be cheaper, especially if you order out of the UK. Normally parts arrive within a week.

With D2's there are several diagnostic tools available so you can play about with all the electronics yourself. on AULRO there is acutally a map of people all over Australia with them who are happy to help others too.

There is heaps of other stuff I could write but thats a start! let me know if you have any specific questions

one last thing, if you want to make it a serious off roader, the D1 is a better base as its smaller, and has a lot more interchangability underneath with Range Rover classics and Defenders, but the D2 is a far better car for long distance stuff.

RRF
I'm new, be nice!
Posts: 4
Joined: May 18th, 2011, 11:13 pm

Re: Buying a Disco

Unread post by RRF » January 13th, 2012, 10:38 am

Thank you for your reply that has explained allot of stuff I was unaware of and then some :). I would like to say yes I will build it for hard core off road but realistically I would be more touring and med to hard stuff as I say if it there I will give it ago lol. but I do thank you again as you have split the two up for me there giving me a better base to look at :) if anyone else wants to throw their thoughts out there plzz do

cewilson
Been here a while
Posts: 343
Joined: April 16th, 2004, 7:23 pm

Re: Buying a Disco - worth the extra cash for a Disco11?

Unread post by cewilson » January 13th, 2012, 4:22 pm

Just make sure if you get a D2 that it has the centre diff lock fitted, otherwise walk away.

Disco_Balls
Here and there
Posts: 23
Joined: December 27th, 2011, 7:17 am
Location: Narangba, QLD

Re: Buying a Disco - worth the extra cash for a Disco11?

Unread post by Disco_Balls » February 14th, 2012, 7:25 pm

D1 FTW!

Not that im biased or anything! :rolleyes: :lol:
OFFICIAL Mitsnisyota RECOVERY VEHICLE!

Return to “General Land Rover”