2LT injector pump internal timing?

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Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 9th, 2007, 7:23 am

I don't know about different Drive shafts being available, I've never heard of that before. The drive gear is held on with rubber joiners which need to be replaced as they can warp over time and possibly throw it out slightly, and the only other thing is the timer piston which needs adjusting. It is similar to the start of delivery on inline pumps. The distributor on the back has shims inside which could also wear down. I know that on MB motors you can get angled keys for the cam pully to adjust for timing chain stretch but there would be nothing as such for injectorpump drive shafts.
As for rebuilt pumps sitting on the shelf it shouldn't be a problem as a special lubricant or fluid should be used and the unit would then be sealed.
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Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 9th, 2007, 7:36 am

This is what I mean.
IMG1.1.jpgIMG1.2.jpg
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Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 9th, 2007, 7:45 am

How do you post the big pics? Do they need to be resized very small? Mine only come up as attachments.
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trains
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Unread post by trains » November 9th, 2007, 8:05 am

double diffa wrote:The only adjustment that I have done, is rotating the pump body all the way to the inlet manifold, a bit at a time.
Is there another internal adjustment under the distributor end ?
Get something like this to put into the rear of the housing.
DIESEL VE ROTARY PUMP TIMING TOOL - eBay, 4x4 Accessories, Car Accessories, Tuning, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 14-Nov-07 11:57:45 AEDST)

And then get a dial guage.

with the harmonic balancer 1/4 turn btdc fit, and zero the guage.
move towards tdc, make sure that the guage dosent move, and stays zero.
keep moving to tdc, then measure the lift.
And check to specs.

Adjustment is made on the outside of the pump where there is a locknut and allen key inner bolt.


Trains

Well within your abilities mate.

Trains

Ps, get a new O ring kit for the idle stop soleniod, the throttle shaft, top cover, max fuel screw side adjustment etc, it may also be leaking air if you start to stuff around with it.

Trains


Will Pm you a .pdf of the way its done.
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HDJ105
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Unread post by HDJ105 » November 9th, 2007, 9:04 am

OM617isbest wrote:Its a bit of a niche market with injector pumps and turbos. The parts are cheap and there is not much labour although some of the equipment is expensive. The Diesel and turbo shops have amonopoly on the market so charge accordingly.

Expensive... Well a pump test bench is worth > $100k :(
Greg G.
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Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 9th, 2007, 9:52 am

I went down to Highway Diesel in Coopers Plains and the fella there let me into the back room to show me their new computerised test bench. I think it was worth about $250K.
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double diffa
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Unread post by double diffa » November 9th, 2007, 10:38 am

80s guy wrote:From what I have read, have you checked plunger lift at tdc on your 2lt pump? The driveshafts in the pumps can be offset with the keyway. There are a number of shafts, someone may have fitted an incorrect one, this wont show up when testing the pump. If you miss time a pump internally, it would be 180 degrees different. The vehicle wont run.

In regards to swapping parts over, if you have never done it before, beware that you may cause further troubles or damage from incorrect fit up.


Andy
Sounds like I need to find a diesel shop who knows what they are doing, then I refit my pump, and take the 4Runner in, and get them to adjust the lift timing on the vehicle as someone sugested before.
I wasn't aware there were any other timing adjustments that could be done on the vehicle, other than rotating the pump housing, in the slotted holes.
Well there you go, I have learned a lot on this thread, that's for sure, but I think I will leave it up to a reputable shop, if I can find one.
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

double diffa
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Unread post by double diffa » November 9th, 2007, 10:49 am

trains wrote:Get something like this to put into the rear of the housing.
DIESEL VE ROTARY PUMP TIMING TOOL - eBay, 4x4 Accessories, Car Accessories, Tuning, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 14-Nov-07 11:57:45 AEDST)

And then get a dial guage.

with the harmonic balancer 1/4 turn btdc fit, and zero the guage.
move towards tdc, make sure that the guage dosent move, and stays zero.
keep moving to tdc, then measure the lift.
And check to specs.

Adjustment is made on the outside of the pump where there is a locknut and allen key inner bolt.


Trains

Well within your abilities mate.

Trains

Ps, get a new O ring kit for the idle stop soleniod, the throttle shaft, top cover, max fuel screw side adjustment etc, it may also be leaking air if you start to stuff around with it.

Trains


Will Pm you a .pdf of the way its done.
Thanks trains, I will study that link with great interest, but I think I will put the old pump back in the shed for now, but this thread has cleared up a lot of questions,that's for sure.
The ol runner is going like a rocket with the 2L pump,(may be a diesel powered rocket anyway) I cured the leak, which is why I was concidering changing pumps in the first place.
So as they say if it's not F*^*d, don't fix it.
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

double diffa
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Unread post by double diffa » November 9th, 2007, 10:54 am

dirtygq wrote:how long was it before you fitted the pump after being adjusted etc ? i was told by a shop if a pump is rebuilt and sits on a shelf for any lenght of time it buggers them (not sure how true this is) .apparently it should be rebuilt directly before re-installing to the vehicle.
I fitted the pump straight out of the shop, fiddled for a couple of months, got the s*^ts with it, and refitted my 2L pump, and all the lost power came back.
I haven't touched any adjustments on the pump accept rotating the body in the slots.
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

double diffa
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Unread post by double diffa » November 9th, 2007, 11:00 am

OM617isbest wrote:How do you post the big pics? Do they need to be resized very small? Mine only come up as attachments.
You have to open an account at photobucket,Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket it's free, post your pics there, and then click on the image code, it will automaticly copy, then past it into your post reply.
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 11th, 2007, 8:41 am

Righto. I will do that. Have you been to the Diesel shop in Nambour? I've heard some good comments about them. The shop is off the Nambour Bli Bli Rd just as yyou are coming in turn right before the first lights. There is a dyno tuning joint there aswell you can't miss on the the corner. I think thats where it is as I always see Bosch and Zexel signs up.

The only other place I use Is Highway diesel in coopers plains ( good work but expensive) and the place in Brendale on Kremzow Rd next to the post office.
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Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 11th, 2007, 8:46 am

There is another tool that goes in the side that measures timer piston stroke. You would need both and all the tables with the measurements. You only need to do this rarely so it would be worth taking in to a shop to get done.
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Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 11th, 2007, 1:11 pm

Image
Thats how it works.
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double diffa
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Unread post by double diffa » November 12th, 2007, 9:19 am

OM617isbest wrote:There is another tool that goes in the side that measures timer piston stroke. You would need both and all the tables with the measurements. You only need to do this rarely so it would be worth taking in to a shop to get done.
Thanks to every one who have tried to help, the info has given me the confidence to refit the 2LT pump, if my current pump starts leaking again, knowing it's not a lost cause.
If the need should arise, I will refit the pump and go to another shop, to get the other, on car adjustments done.
One thing no one has confirmed, is it worth fitting the boost compensator?
Do they make any difference?
I can't see how they could change anything above boost, only clean it up below, EG: less smoke below boost.
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

Turbotojo
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Unread post by Turbotojo » November 12th, 2007, 11:19 am

The boost compensator just increases the stroke of the axial piston thereby increasing the fuel sent to the injector. More boost = more fuel = more power = more smoke if not set up properly. Thats all it does.

You could buy a dwarf and stick him under the bonnet with a screw driver and he could adjust the pump manually while you are driving to suit your right foot action.
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