2LT injector pump internal timing?

All Tojo Talk
double diffa
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1182
Joined: December 16th, 2005, 8:28 pm

Unread post by double diffa » November 8th, 2007, 5:37 pm

I would still need to get the pump stroke changed or what ever it is that's retarding the timing.
I have nothing to loose, and my Max Ellery manual shows how to do the injector pump overhall, the pump is useless as it is, so if I ever need to replace, or repair my current pump due to leaks I might give it a try.
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

double diffa
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1182
Joined: December 16th, 2005, 8:28 pm

Unread post by double diffa » November 8th, 2007, 5:44 pm

trains wrote:Hey Double Diffa,

Can you explain exactly how you set the timing up on the 2LT injector pump when the motor was at tdc.

cheers

Trains
Sorry Trains, do you need to know how, or you already know how and are checking if I did it right?
I have been rebuilding and modifying engines for over 30 years, including quad cam V8s and dialing in cams for rally cars, a couple of years in a Subaru dealer with WRX's, as well as rebuilding and porting roteries etc, so the cam timing on the old 2LT is a bit of a snooze.
Yes I am sure I did it right.:thumb:
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

Turbotojo
Been here a while
Posts: 390
Joined: August 23rd, 2007, 5:38 pm
Location: Moodlu, between caboolture and the Wam.

Unread post by Turbotojo » November 8th, 2007, 5:49 pm

That is what I would do.Unless I suddenly came into some money.
Ive got the Ellery 4 and 6 cylinder landcruiser Diesel book. It cover up to Bundera too which my car is similar to although its electronic. The original Toyota manuals are better as the pics are clearer and bigger.
[font=Arial Black][font=Book Antiqua]LJ78 Landcruiser II now locked and loaded.
[url]http://www.dieselworkhorseauto.com.au/index.php[/url][/font][/font]

Turbotojo
Been here a while
Posts: 390
Joined: August 23rd, 2007, 5:38 pm
Location: Moodlu, between caboolture and the Wam.

Unread post by Turbotojo » November 8th, 2007, 5:51 pm

Tis is a pretty good discussion. just like my 2L-TE 5L-E cross build thread.
[font=Arial Black][font=Book Antiqua]LJ78 Landcruiser II now locked and loaded.
[url]http://www.dieselworkhorseauto.com.au/index.php[/url][/font][/font]

Turbotojo
Been here a while
Posts: 390
Joined: August 23rd, 2007, 5:38 pm
Location: Moodlu, between caboolture and the Wam.

Unread post by Turbotojo » November 8th, 2007, 5:58 pm

double diffa wrote: so the cam timing on the old 2LT is a bit of a snooze.
:thumb:
Yer!! just remove front cover and throw it in.
[font=Arial Black][font=Book Antiqua]LJ78 Landcruiser II now locked and loaded.
[url]http://www.dieselworkhorseauto.com.au/index.php[/url][/font][/font]

trains
Avid Poster
Posts: 846
Joined: August 24th, 2006, 2:32 pm

Unread post by trains » November 8th, 2007, 6:28 pm

double diffa wrote:Sorry Trains, do you need to know how, or you already know how and are checking if I did it right?
I have been rebuilding and modifying engines for over 30 years, including quad cam V8s and dialing in cams for rally cars, a couple of years in a Subaru dealer with WRX's, as well as rebuilding and porting roteries etc, so the cam timing on the old 2LT is a bit of a snooze.
Yes I am sure I did it right.:thumb:

Yer mate, not saying you dont know how to do it.
As we are both aware, sometimes its best to clarify whats been done.

As far as fitting it up per the timing marks on the block, and housing marks.

What I was asking was the removal of the center plug in the distributor end housing where the pipes head off to the injectors.
And measuring the lift/ timing of the pump that way by fitting the already mentioned tool (its basically a thin rod that the dial guage can work against).

The side locknut and screw are the adjustment to this.
Set the housing of the pump up as per the marks on their sides.
To check the internal timing move the engine 1/4 turn from tdc, then zero the dial guage, move the engine a bit, make sure the dial guage dosent register any lift, then move the engine up on tdc engine, and measure the lift of the piston.
I think I remember you have had this done in shop, but maybe its out a bit.

Its only measured in the mm, and fractions of a mm can make a difference.

Trains
My Wife cant shear But you should see her crutch!

Save the Whales......Collect the whole set!

Fight Crime.......Shoot Back !

Turbotojo
Been here a while
Posts: 390
Joined: August 23rd, 2007, 5:38 pm
Location: Moodlu, between caboolture and the Wam.

Unread post by Turbotojo » November 8th, 2007, 6:42 pm

Inline pumps are so much easier.
[font=Arial Black][font=Book Antiqua]LJ78 Landcruiser II now locked and loaded.
[url]http://www.dieselworkhorseauto.com.au/index.php[/url][/font][/font]

double diffa
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1182
Joined: December 16th, 2005, 8:28 pm

Unread post by double diffa » November 8th, 2007, 7:34 pm

trains wrote: What I was asking was the removal of the center plug in the distributor end housing where the pipes head off to the injectors.
And measuring the lift/ timing of the pump that way by fitting the already mentioned tool (its basically a thin rod that the dial guage can work against).

The side locknut and screw are the adjustment to this.
Set the housing of the pump up as per the marks on their sides.
To check the internal timing move the engine 1/4 turn from tdc, then zero the dial guage, move the engine a bit, make sure the dial guage dosent register any lift, then move the engine up on tdc engine, and measure the lift of the piston.
I think I remember you have had this done in shop, but maybe its out a bit.

Its only measured in the mm, and fractions of a mm can make a difference.


Trains
The only adjustment that I have done, is rotating the pump body all the way to the inlet manifold, a bit at a time.
Is there another internal adjustment under the distributor end ?
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

cavey
Here and there
Posts: 86
Joined: August 16th, 2007, 8:18 pm
Location: southern Tasmania

Unread post by cavey » November 8th, 2007, 7:44 pm

you should be able to fit the boost compensator to the good pump, I just bought one for my 3L ( $400 ) but phone a reputable diesel shop like one out of the magazine & talk to them about your problem for a different point of view & its only a phone call

Turbotojo
Been here a while
Posts: 390
Joined: August 23rd, 2007, 5:38 pm
Location: Moodlu, between caboolture and the Wam.

Unread post by Turbotojo » November 8th, 2007, 8:13 pm

you need a special tool and all the know how.
[font=Arial Black][font=Book Antiqua]LJ78 Landcruiser II now locked and loaded.
[url]http://www.dieselworkhorseauto.com.au/index.php[/url][/font][/font]

double diffa
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1182
Joined: December 16th, 2005, 8:28 pm

Unread post by double diffa » November 8th, 2007, 8:49 pm

OM617isbest wrote:Tis is a pretty good discussion. just like my 2L-TE 5L-E cross build thread.
I will have to find and read that thread, I know twice as much about injector pumps now than I did yesterday, but twice nothing is still nothing :)
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

double diffa
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1182
Joined: December 16th, 2005, 8:28 pm

Unread post by double diffa » November 8th, 2007, 9:10 pm

This is the pump in question, I posted the pic, so you could see, marked in yellow paint, the sections that the diesel shop adjusted.
It has been sitting in the garden shed raped in a rag for the last two years.
Image

Here is the id plate, if that means anything.
Image
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

double diffa
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1182
Joined: December 16th, 2005, 8:28 pm

Unread post by double diffa » November 8th, 2007, 9:18 pm

cavey wrote:you should be able to fit the boost compensator to the good pump, I just bought one for my 3L ( $400 ) but phone a reputable diesel shop like one out of the magazine & talk to them about your problem for a different point of view & its only a phone call
How hard was it to fit the boost compensator, did you do it your self?
And was it worth the $400, what advantage does it give, apart from less smoke below boost?
I was checking out my pump before when I took the pic, and it looks pretty simple.
I had the top off my 2L pump in the car yesterday to replace a megger tight, leaking fuel shut off valve, and it was a piece of cake.
I know how to adjust my full load injection setting.
"[b][i]Parts left out cost nothing, and cause no service problems, keep it simple[/i][/b]"

80s guy
Here and there
Posts: 23
Joined: February 21st, 2005, 10:24 pm

Unread post by 80s guy » November 8th, 2007, 10:34 pm

From what I have read, have you checked plunger lift at tdc on your 2lt pump? The driveshafts in the pumps can be offset with the keyway. There are a number of shafts, someone may have fitted an incorrect one, this wont show up when testing the pump. If you miss time a pump internally, it would be 180 degrees different. The vehicle wont run.

In regards to swapping parts over, if you have never done it before, beware that you may cause further troubles or damage from incorrect fit up.


Andy

dirtygq
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1829
Joined: October 4th, 2006, 5:47 pm
Location: brisbane

Unread post by dirtygq » November 8th, 2007, 10:45 pm

how long was it before you fitted the pump after being adjusted etc ? i was told by a shop if a pump is rebuilt and sits on a shelf for any lenght of time it buggers them (not sure how true this is) .apparently it should be rebuilt directly before re-installing to the vehicle.
gET A LIFE GET A 4WD...!!!!!!

Return to “General Toyota”