Hilux and 4Runner Info

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A1 Mech
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Unread post by A1 Mech » June 15th, 2008, 8:41 pm

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Then u hav to get a feed and return coolant hose to the water fittings of the turbo, Use the heater hoses which run parallel to the manifold. It is best to tap into them on the passenger side where they enter the block, then cable tie the 2 hoses along the heater hoses path to the turbo.

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The turbo is fitted and we hav borrowed the boosted side cross over pipe off my 4runner to test it all, We still need to hav the exhaust shop make up sum new cross over pipes for this hilux and a 21/2" mandrel exhaust. U hav to disconnect the oil breather from the intake manifold and block it as it becomes pressurised now, run the breather from the tappet cover to the low pressure side of the intake plumbing (obviously downstream of the filter).

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Then all u hav to do is wind the adjustment screw on the injection pump roughly a full turn clockwise to bring the fuel rate up to match the boost. Double check the oil/coolant is flowing correctly b4 driving and that everything is sealed correctly. We will be fitting a boost and pyrometer so we can determine correct fuel adjustments over time.

Im pretty sure Ive remebered all, if ther is any Q's please ask and Ill fill u in best I can. Cheers
[align=center][size=134][color=red][b][u]Gen2 turbo 4Runner[/u][/b][/color][/size][/align]
[align=center]3" SAS TG kits FnR, FnR ARB's, R150F, 23spline duals with 4.7's, 30s Longs, 33" MTZs road, 36x13.5 Iroks play, fullbarwork....etc.[/align]
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Dirt Junkie
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Unread post by Dirt Junkie » October 21st, 2008, 4:24 pm

couple questions...
Do you know what garrett turbo it is?
The manifold that you used i'm assuming it used to have a CT20 sitting on it?

A1 Mech
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Unread post by A1 Mech » October 21st, 2008, 7:29 pm

The garrett is an older style 5 bolt T3 variant which was completely stripped and rebuilt. Its manifold is a custom cast iron job. The head which we got the manifold and turbo off originally was from an L diesel (2.2L) its studs were slightly different but we wer able to modify
[align=center][size=134][color=red][b][u]Gen2 turbo 4Runner[/u][/b][/color][/size][/align]
[align=center]3" SAS TG kits FnR, FnR ARB's, R150F, 23spline duals with 4.7's, 30s Longs, 33" MTZs road, 36x13.5 Iroks play, fullbarwork....etc.[/align]
[al

dfj20
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Unread post by dfj20 » November 26th, 2008, 5:13 pm

can i be a real pain and ask what size hoses and 't piece' fittings are needed?

A1 Mech
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Unread post by A1 Mech » November 26th, 2008, 6:21 pm

Not 100% sure mate off the top of my head, best bet is to measure your heater hoses and get the closest smaller T. do the same with the oil feed and return. make sure u use good quality oil hose for your oil lines as my mates return hose softened and burst after about 20000k, cleaning wasnt fun.
[align=center][size=134][color=red][b][u]Gen2 turbo 4Runner[/u][/b][/color][/size][/align]
[align=center]3" SAS TG kits FnR, FnR ARB's, R150F, 23spline duals with 4.7's, 30s Longs, 33" MTZs road, 36x13.5 Iroks play, fullbarwork....etc.[/align]
[al

dfj20
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Unread post by dfj20 » November 27th, 2008, 4:38 pm

thats what i was gunnado, but i'm just lazy, thought i might be able to just go and buy them. thanks anyway

steve-o
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3rz-fe oxygen sensor???

Unread post by steve-o » December 11th, 2008, 3:53 pm

does the 2.7l petrol hilux motor have an oxygen sensor ? had a bit of a look and cant find it.
i wan2 fit an autometer air fuel ratio guage but dont know how 2 if theres no sensor:confused:

A1 Mech
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Unread post by A1 Mech » December 11th, 2008, 6:49 pm

pretty sure all EFI engines require a O2 sensor to ge the fuel/air ratio reading. It will be somewhere on the exhaust, either on the manifold, downpipe, or near the Cat.
[align=center][size=134][color=red][b][u]Gen2 turbo 4Runner[/u][/b][/color][/size][/align]
[align=center]3" SAS TG kits FnR, FnR ARB's, R150F, 23spline duals with 4.7's, 30s Longs, 33" MTZs road, 36x13.5 Iroks play, fullbarwork....etc.[/align]
[al

Runnabee
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Unread post by Runnabee » April 2nd, 2009, 12:58 pm

Nice write up man, id be keen on doing something like this to my runner if i had the cash, so whats it like? big improvement or only small, im guessing its a stock motor internally? what sort of boost are you running?

A1 Mech
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Unread post by A1 Mech » April 2nd, 2009, 4:30 pm

A turbo added to any engine is a massive improvement over factory especially the 3L, this is a mild setup with only 5psi of boost and non intercooled and the hp and torque increased dramatically, no dyno figures but it can easy blow away a stocko even with 33" rubber.

turbo is a garrett branded version of the T3 which is used on the VL commodores and some R32 skylines.
[align=center][size=134][color=red][b][u]Gen2 turbo 4Runner[/u][/b][/color][/size][/align]
[align=center]3" SAS TG kits FnR, FnR ARB's, R150F, 23spline duals with 4.7's, 30s Longs, 33" MTZs road, 36x13.5 Iroks play, fullbarwork....etc.[/align]
[al

Mudrunner's4WD
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Unread post by Mudrunner's4WD » May 3rd, 2009, 3:50 pm

hey do 100 series crusier coils fit in a 1993 4 runner with 2 inch lift?
[align=center][color=black]GQ TROLL AND NOW WERE TO START :D[/color][/align]

A1 Mech
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Unread post by A1 Mech » May 3rd, 2009, 4:39 pm

Do u mean, wud 2" raised 100 series cruiser coils fit a 93 runner?

If so then yes but it wud be ridiculousy high, if u want to use cruiser coils I recommend finding a set of original sagged 80 series coils as these alone will give 4" in a much lighter 4runner and will handle better due to them being softer.
[align=center][size=134][color=red][b][u]Gen2 turbo 4Runner[/u][/b][/color][/size][/align]
[align=center]3" SAS TG kits FnR, FnR ARB's, R150F, 23spline duals with 4.7's, 30s Longs, 33" MTZs road, 36x13.5 Iroks play, fullbarwork....etc.[/align]
[al

Mudrunner's4WD
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Unread post by Mudrunner's4WD » May 3rd, 2009, 5:36 pm

A1 Mech wrote:Do u mean, wud 2" raised 100 series cruiser coils fit a 93 runner?

If so then yes but it wud be ridiculousy high, if u want to use cruiser coils I recommend finding a set of original sagged 80 series coils as these alone will give 4" in a much lighter 4runner and will handle better due to them being softer.

no i mean standard coils out of a 100 series into a runner
[align=center][color=black]GQ TROLL AND NOW WERE TO START :D[/color][/align]

Woodbutcher
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Unread post by Woodbutcher » May 31st, 2009, 6:59 pm

Mudrunner's4WD wrote:no i mean standard coils out of a 100 series into a runner

Yes they will and work well as I have 100 series coils in my Surf but you also need to do a adjustable panhard rod and make a bracket for the brake equalizer to extend it up to match the amount of lift (aprox 4")
1990 Surf with a couple of Mod's
1UZ V8 (conversion done by me)
Coil SAS with 60 front diff (conversion done by me)
THE SHED [url]http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=5932&im=1[/url]

A1 Mech
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Unread post by A1 Mech » June 21st, 2009, 9:34 pm

Fitted powersteering to a mates 89 LN106 singlecab this weekend so thought I shall right up a quite DIY, will take pics and add later.

What you will need:
LN130, LN106 diesel powersteering kit from a 2L or 3L surf, hilux, 4runner. Solid axles hav a different P/S box to IFS vehicles so the appropriate part will hav to be sourced.

This kit shud consist of:
1. Passenger side engine mount bracket
2. Powersteering pump, pully, belt.
3. resevoir and complete feed/return fluid lines and fittings.
4. P/S and A/C pulleys from front of harmonic balancer
5. P/S box, either IFS or SFA depending on vehicle.
6. Yet to refit radiator but it may or may not need replacing with a P/S item or a new hose, will edit when I find out.

remove radiator, fan, battery and any bashplates in your way.

-Once all this is collected you can begin to strip out all the old gear. Remove passenger side engine mount bracket and swap in new powersteering pump/engine mount bracket assembly.

-bolt 2 new P/S and AC pulleys to front of harmonic balancer, your old AC pulley if fitted is a different diameter so removed.

- loosen steering shaft uni's under dash and above steering box, undo all bolts holding steering box and its bracket to chassis and remove (will be a pain but take your time to figure it out and ull get it off). We took the whole draglink and steering arm in one piece as my mates was stuffed but if u hav to remove the pitman arm hav a decent 32mm spanner and puller handy to get it off as they are practically welded ther.

- bolt on new P/S box bracket then the actual box, refit steering shaft to new lengths on spline and tighten all these bolts.

- place the resevoir in correct location, ther may or may not be tapped holes ther already depending on year model. We had one bolt hole to use and drilled the rest.

- You can now weave the feed/return lines into position, it is easier if they remain all in one piece so you know roughly where they need to pass. You can connect these to the resevoir, pump and box now. There shud be threaded holes in the chassis for ther holding brackets.

- Once you have it all plumbed up check that everything is tight and reassemble alternator belts and new powersteering belt as well as fan, radiator and shroud.

- Fill radiator system with heater on and run engine till there is no air left.

- now with the engine off jack the front wheels off the ground, fill the P/S resevoir till it appears full, now cycle the steering wheel left to right till the fluid works its way down into the lines, keep topping up. You can start the engine and continue topping up and cycling steering while idling. It may take some time to remove all air from the system but eventually the fluid shud look clear and stay at a constant level.

Double check everything is correctly torqued, topped up and leak free then your ready for a test drive. IF the steering shudders or squeals the belt may need to be tensioned more by forcing the pump out on is adjusting slide, if the box is noisy in operation you may hav to crack the bleed nipple on the actual box if ther is one present.

enjoy power steering ;)

UPDATE: You will need to source a P/S models radiator, hoses and fan clutch as the manual steer parts are not useable.
[align=center][size=134][color=red][b][u]Gen2 turbo 4Runner[/u][/b][/color][/size][/align]
[align=center]3" SAS TG kits FnR, FnR ARB's, R150F, 23spline duals with 4.7's, 30s Longs, 33" MTZs road, 36x13.5 Iroks play, fullbarwork....etc.[/align]
[al

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