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D21 Navara TD27 Turbo Conversion

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D21 Navara TD27 Turbo Conversion

Hi,


I have a 1991 D21 Nissan Navara with a TD27. Motor has done 150,000 km’s and the fuel pump has been done about 12 months ago and all has been going well since. The ute has been very handy, but I would like to squeeze a bit more power out of the TD27.

The Plan
After reading a number of posts regarding turbo conversions on diesel engines, I would like to give it ago and see if I can build a reasonable setup for under $1000. I have a few ideas on how I want to set it all up but haveing no experience with diesel engines I felt that joining this forum would be in my best interest to get some advice from those that know there stuff.
I recently purchased a turbo off a d22 zd30 for around $300, the turbo has supposedly done only 1000 km’s and is in great condition. I got it off the net so I’m waiting for it to turn up in the mail now (fingers crossed).
Here is the basic setup I am chasing, as far as turbo position goes.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/elbarto_87/Nav%20turbo%20project/turbo_navd21-early.jpg
the below link shows a quick sketch I did of a log style manifold that should be straight forward to build out of butt weld fittings and thick wall mild tubing (the tube diameter shown is 1.5” NB with the fittings also to scale, I don’t know the actual position of the exhaust ports yet but you will see my idea).
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/elbarto_87/Nav%20turbo%20project/D21Turbomanifold_web.jpg

What I want to achieve is a increase in power, particularly mid/top end power for overtaking and having enough grunt to keep at a steady 100km/h when on a grade. I also don’t want to significantly effect the life expectancy of the motor. I have seen the denco systems,
Denco Nissan Navara TD27 Turbo Kit plus New Aircleaner Assembly - 4x4 Store Australia
and while they are probably the best option, they are simply out of my price range. I have $700 remaining which I think should cover the cost of building a manifold, intake pluming, new air box, oil feed, EGT gauge and hopefully Il have a enough left over to get somebody in the know to adjust my fuel pump mixture for me. Are there any obvious costs here which I haven’t considered (with the exception of the possible intercooler & exhaust if they are required)? For a $1000 I think I can make a setup to achieve the results I want, but I would really appreciate any input and suggestions you guys have on the best way to go about it.


The Issues/Questions:

(1)-boost pressure-intercooler?
From what I have managed to find on the net, the zd30 ran 15psi standard, and the td27t ran only 6.5psi (I have read a few posts by Terrano-saurus which has been helpful in collecting info). I have read posts about a td27t running 14psi with an intercooler, but is this necessary? Does an intercooler allow you to run more boost safer on a diesel engine? I know on a petrol engine lowering the intake temperature combats pre-detonation but I thought the only advantage of an intercooler with diesel engines was the higher air density as a result of lower boost temperatures will increase power. I notice denco turbo kit for the td27 uses about 7psi, so this is probably my main concern at the moment. I don’t know whether to change the actuator to a lower rating or stick with the high boost.

(2)-oil feed
I don’t have a oil line for my turbo. What would be the best way to supply oil? I noticed that there is a oil supply going to the back of the alternator and returning to the block (I think the oil supply is for a vacuum pump of some description which is on the back of the alternator housing – it is connected to the brake booster). I was thinking of tapping into this supply, but also noticed the oil pump appears to have a few bolts blanking a few (suspected) galleries – I don’t know if these will be suitable or not.

(3) – exhaust
From the manifold back is a 2” exhaust. If I make a 2” dump pipe run from the turbo straight into the existing exhaust will this be ok. I plan on installing a EGT probe in the dump pipe to make sure temps don’t exceed 550c.

(4) - Fuel Pump
Is a boost compensator needed for my fuel pump? I have read posts where some have adjusted the stock pump to run richer and looking at the denco kit I think this is what they are suggesting also. If a compensator is necessary, any ideas of where to find one and a rough idea what price one would cost. If my limited experience with diesels has taught me anything is that the injector pump is one expensive piece of gear.

(5) – Materials
Does anyone know a steel merchant in the Brisbane area that sells steel tube/rhs/plate by the meter rather than the length?

I’m sure I have a few more questions, but that’s it for now…


Thank you
Regards Jake

Ps. (sorry for the long first post)

Unread postby elbarto » May 5th, 2008, 6:14 pm


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Cheepest way woud be to either get a TD27T out a late model D21 and I think early D22's had the TD27T's.

Nissan Terrano's ran the TD27TI's, theres another option.

Unread postby Dave_STR » May 5th, 2008, 6:42 pm


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How easy are the td27t's to come across? It seems like a shame to replace a motor that has only done 150,000 kms, plus I dont think there was too much diference between the td27 and td27t. From what I can tell they have the same compression ratio. Injector pump might be different tho?

Unread postby elbarto » May 5th, 2008, 9:19 pm


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Will a TD27T manifold bolt up to the ZD30 turbo? If so, i'd seriously consider going that way to save on time and hassles and have a manifold that isn't likely to crack or leak.

As for oiling, I dunno about the TD27 but i've seen nissan non-turbo petrol motors that have the oil feed and drain points on the block plugged up with bolts, might pay to look at a workshop manual or find some photos and see if your block has them already tapped.

2" exhaust will probably do for now but you might want something a bit bigger in the future.

Unread postby jg1982 » May 6th, 2008, 4:55 am


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jg1982 wrote:Will a TD27T manifold bolt up to the ZD30 turbo? If so, i'd seriously consider going that way to save on time and hassles and have a manifold that isn't likely to crack or leak.

As for oiling, I dunno about the TD27 but i've seen nissan non-turbo petrol motors that have the oil feed and drain points on the block plugged up with bolts, might pay to look at a workshop manual or find some photos and see if your block has them already tapped.

2" exhaust will probably do for now but you might want something a bit bigger in the future.


yeah thats right even the n/a rb30 has the plugs in the oil feed holes in the block
83' MQ Dual Cab RB30 INJ well on its way......

LRP FABRICATIONS ( Bar work, S/Steel snorkels, Draws, etc) Contact 0417724127 [color=navy]for enquiries.[/color]

Unread postby chuck_d » May 6th, 2008, 2:04 pm


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I gave a few nissan wreckers here in brisbane a try but didn't have any luck with a manifold for a td27t. Looks like il have to make one, Shouldn't be too big of a deal tho.

Does anyone know if the boost regulators on the D22 ZD30 turbos can be swaped with a unit with a lower boost rating (or can you pull the factory regulator down and change a spring)?

Unread postby elbarto » May 6th, 2008, 8:05 pm


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turbo turned up today and looks pretty good. Il post a pic tomorrow.

I tried to open the wastegate by hand but I couldn't budge it, the actuator is 15psi (I think), are the usually VERY tight to open by hand?

Also, does the orientation of the turbo make a difference with respect to oil drainage of the turbo?

Unread postby elbarto » May 9th, 2008, 11:21 pm


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The ZD30DDT out of the D22 Navara run 16 PSI at max boost (compression ratio of 17.9 to 1), way to much for the TD27 which has a compression ratio of 22 to 1. You will need to get a boost controller to limit the boost. The max I would go on a healthy TD27 is 8 psi.

Good luck

Unread postby Dave_STR » May 11th, 2008, 3:26 pm


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Will boost controller allow you to reduce the boost below the pressure rating of the waste gate actuator? I thought boost controllers were used to increse the boost preasure above the factory rating, not reduce it?

Unread postby elbarto » May 11th, 2008, 3:56 pm


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you are right about the oil line that goes to the back of the alternator it will be for a vacume pump. the turbo kit iv got on my patrol taps into that oil line and then runs thru the turbo and then drains back into the sump.

And as for exhaust i would go for a 2.5'' dump pipe followed by 2.5'' rite the way through with maby just a little hotdog muffler to quietnen it a bit but not restrict it as much.


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Unread postby MEGATROL » May 12th, 2008, 9:13 am


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Thanks for the info so far. That is great news with the oil feed, I will try use this supply to oil my turbo. I have uploaded a few images of the turbo I brought to photobucket and the links are below.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/elbarto_87/Nav%20turbo%20project/ZD30D22Turbo2.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/elbarto_87/Nav%20turbo%20project/ZD30D22Turbo.jpg

I pulled the manifold off my ute today and measured the ports up, and determined that 1.5" pipe (NB) with 0.109" wall thickness will be a good match for area, so I came up with a 3d design for a manifold useing the dimensions found at Butt weld fittings - Procureit Australia
[ATTACH]19128[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19129[/ATTACH]
My existing Idea would not work as the ports are far to close together. I am still considering changeing this design aswell, as from the face of the exhaust ports to the face of the turbo flange is 163.8mm, which by the time you bolt a turbo on there I think might be a bit of a problem.

This will be an ongoing project for the next few months so progress might be a little slow at times but I will keep this post updated with my progress incase there are a few of you out there that are interested in a backyard turbo conversion.

Thanks
Jake

Ps. the grooves in the drawings are the chamfers for weld prep.
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Unread postby elbarto » May 18th, 2008, 11:22 pm


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i just fitted an import terrano td27t engine to my dual cab nav and it runs about 11psi standard with a 2.5 mandrel zorst, when i intercool it ill try for 14psi. if your non turbo motor runs the same compression theres no reason you cant run the same boost providing your injector pump can keep the fuel up to it. try any importers in brissy for turbo manifold.

Unread postby olgus69 » June 22nd, 2009, 10:34 am


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TD27t manifold

Hi Jake,

Noticed your first post was a few years ago and this may be irrelevant now.

I like your 3d sketch, but you could save yourself sometime. MTQ Australia do a bolt on manifold which has been optimised for best flow, it also raises the turbo so it doesn't sit behind the alternator. This way the turbo inlet can be of a larger diameter. I paid about $300 5 years ago. I'm actually in the process of bolting it up now!! Don't ask......Family life slowed me down :)

I've had a little hickup. My Ex. exaust manifold has a return to the intake. The new MTQ manifold doesn't. I was actually searching the web for an answer before I came across this thread. My guess is I can block it off, it must have something to do with EGR, but I'd like to confirm this.

It would be good to hear how you went?

Unread postby Punished » December 26th, 2009, 7:02 pm


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Thought I'd my 2 cents for what it's worth.

A few years ago my brother cooked the TD27 in his DC Navara. Naturally aspirated TD27's were too hard to find, so eventually I found a TD27T (out of a Terrano) for $1200. Bolted straight in. (Note, we upgraded the clutch and radiator at the same time). We also had to get a Terrano air filter housing to hook up the intake. The exhaust we just adapted to the original exhaust, a bit restricted but he still has heaps more power than the naturally aspirated motor. That's how he still drives it around today, standard boost, no intercooler.
By getting a factory TD27 turbo motor we also got the injector pump with boost compensator.

Your plan sounds OK, half the fun is knowing you did it yourself, but the way we did it was a lot simpler, took less then 2 weeks to do.

Image

Tony

Unread postby YNOT » December 28th, 2009, 11:29 am



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