Another Clutch Problem. GQ Patrol.

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Another Clutch Problem. GQ Patrol.

Hi there

I have a 1993 GQ Patrol. IT has only recently been re registered and back on the road after about 12 months off after rolling it we had to bebuild it.

Today we take it out for the 1st time up to Disa and went to go through smallish bog hole and went to clutch in and f..... nothing. Winched out of hole and nothing there at all.

In it there is a brand new PBR clutch kit that has done next to no k's though recently had to replace what we were told was the Slave Cylinder.
It ran like a dream after replacing the slave and there was no signs of the clutch going to **** itself today.

Does anyone know what warranties are on PBR clutches the 4x4 ones and or can anyone suggest to try anything to see that it is definetly the clutch gone.

Only real bug change since rebuild on the car is an extra 2inches to the body on top of previous 4 inch suspension.

Any ideas/help would be appreciated as the old girl was supposed to take us to Yarrawonga this coming friday!!!!!


Unread postby jpc » February 2nd, 2008, 5:01 pm

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Check all the hydrualic sid eof things first, if all good then you have to check the clutch itself
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Unread postby sudso » February 3rd, 2008, 12:30 am

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Check that there is no air in the line to the Slave jus top up the fluid then crack open the bleed nipple on the slave an let a fair bit of fluid run through an keep an eye out for any air bubble's thats more than likely whats wrong.
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Unread postby MUDRATGQ » February 3rd, 2008, 2:32 am

Here and there
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Joined: August 13th, 2007, 7:37 pm

Thanks for that.

When it is put into gear it doesnt catch at all. Could the slave still be the problem with air in it?

Unread postby jpc » February 3rd, 2008, 2:20 pm

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Joined: June 17th, 2005, 8:01 pm

I take it that you actually have NO DRIVE, ie the clutch is disengage ALL the time, not that you can't get it to release when you put your foot on the clutch?! (ie you don't grind the gears, the clutch simply gives you NO drive at all!) And yes, having air in the slave cylinder could still be the problem!

If you've got a slave cylinder problem, or air in the hydraulics, then you've got a clutch that won't disengage, and you'll have no clutch action, ie it will usually be engaged to the engine drive all the time, and you won't be able to change gears or select a gear once you've started in neutral for the grinding from the gears. It will normally let you start in gear tho, and if you are good, you can drive it without the clutch (don't even DREAM of it unless you KNOW that you can do it, cos it isn't worth destroying the gearbox over! And if you grind the gears more than a couple of times, you WILL destroy the gearbox!!) To resolve the air in the hydraulics and/or slave cylinder, bleed the system! And it can be difficult, too! It takes about 12 hours to do properly unless you have a power bleeder!

The No Drive situation is a little different. It means that the clutch has a problem that is keeping the pressure plate jammed on and the drive plate is not spinning at all cos it's clear of thye flywheel. Can be things like insufficient clutch pedal free play, a faulty clutch release mechanism jamming the clutch fork in the disengage position, or a faulty master or slave cylinder doing the same thing. It can be worn driven plate facings but if it's meant to be a new clutch that shouldn't be the case, nor should the pressure plate diaphragm spring be worn or broken, and the flywheel should be OK, not worn or scored. It could be oil OR WATER on the driven plate or even just in the space left between the flywheel and the driven plate once you put your foot on the clutch when you were in the water or mud, that can take a LOOONG time to dry out! If you have the tiny rubber plug on the bottom of the bell housing still, pull it out. If not, get a thin probe and poke it up thru that hole to make sure it is clear and can let any water out. If you get water out of that hole, all you can do is wait for it to dry, usually from a few hours to a day or so, but start it every now and then and try the clutch, just to make sure that it doesn't stick to the flywheel!

You didn't have any sign of clutch slip BEFORE it just stopped did you? If you didn't then it is most likely the water/oil between driven plate and flywheel, OR it could be the whole lot has jammed in the fully released position. IF you DID have clutch slippage before hand, then it may be something that didn't get done properly when the new clutch went in! And the PBR gear usually has a pretty reasonable warranty, even if you did fit it at the beginning of your 12 month lay off. IF it is a problem with the clutch gear that was replaced, tell them how long it has been since it went in, and how long it was in before the car was used at all. They WILL be able to tell if it has done very little work, so no porky's, and they may help regardless of it being out of 'Warranty time!'

Trying ti get it to work again? If draining water out wasn't the issue, then try this lot! First up, check the reservoir for fluid, make sure that it's full. Then get underneath and check very carefully for leaks in the hydraulic fluid tubes or the slave cylinder, and particular where the rubber hoses are - between the body and the bell housing! Still no sign, check that the release fork is pulled right forwards, and not jammed right back in the release position. Maybe a piece of wood or similar jammed between the body and the release fork?

If all that checks out OK, get someone to press the clutch pedal a couple of times while you are underneath looking to see what goes on?! Check that the pedal releases freely, and that there isn't anything jamming it and stopping it from returning to the free position. And check to make sure that the hydraulic lines haven't been bent or kinked anywhere, a fairly tight kink will often let fluid pass one way under pressure, when you put your foot on the pedal, but not let it return cos there is less pressure and no servo assist, just the return spring that should be on the top end of the pedal and the tiny spring inside the slave cylinder itself!

See if any of that helps?!!

Good Luck!
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

Unread postby Peter Aawen » February 3rd, 2008, 3:09 pm

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Posts: 219
Joined: August 31st, 2007, 6:45 am
Location: Gladstone

i had a similar problem with my GQ ute i was out one day playen in a bog hole at one of our local islands and i put the clutch in to drop back a gear and let it out and nothing happend. i fiddeled around for a bit and ended up towing it 20km back thru the island and onto the barge and trailered it home from there. i pulled the gbox out and found that the clutch assembly was full of mud and wasent letting the clutch engage to allow it to drive. i ended up putting a new clutch in it but if i had of put some pressure on the fingers of the pressure plate i could have hosed it out and reused it i reckon. hope that helps.
GQ coil cab ute, 4''coils, 2''cablift, 35'' Maxxis Creepy crawlers, turbo 4.2L diesle, rear air locker and much more!!!

Unread postby MEGATROL » February 4th, 2008, 10:49 am

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