Random wanderings thread

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kiran92
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Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » March 6th, 2015, 10:06 am

So,

I figure I've got enough pictures to start a little thread of my own.

All constructive criticism is welcomed.

I shoot with either an iPhone6 or (many of the later images) a Nikon D3300 with a Nikkor 18-200mm lens.

If I edit an image (outside of in camera PP'ing) I'll note it.

There's probably a pretty noticeable theme here, I'm a little obsessed with my new 4by so she features a lot.

I have an issue with horizons, I need one of those slot in spirit levels I think.
BT in regrowth Forrest Welly Dam.jpg
track to nowhere welly dam.jpg
Washington Monuement WA DC from Lincoln Mem.jpg
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I work for my weekends... and damn it, I WILL enjoy them

kiran92
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » March 12th, 2015, 10:42 am

Few More:
compressed new growth 1.jpg
tumlo crk.jpg
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I work for my weekends... and damn it, I WILL enjoy them

the-viking
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by the-viking » March 12th, 2015, 1:13 pm

Hi Kiran.
Nice truck mate.

I have no idea where that third place is in your first post. Do tell...

As far as horizons go, you should have a levelling tool of some sort in your post edit software. It's usually incorporated in the 'Crop Tool'.

Last two are interesting. Is this an in camera filter or are you doing it in post?

Cheers.

kiran92
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » March 12th, 2015, 3:16 pm

Cheers Viking.

...Pretty sure you're not serious...
Washington Monument (Washington DC U.S.A) seen across the pool taken at the foot of the steps of the Lincoln Memorial

Thanks for the tip, I've had both my tablet power cords break so I'm stuck with editing on PS touch off my phone.

It's an in camera function called 'Miniature'
If my theory is right, a shallow depth of field and tight focus would have a similar result.
I work for my weekends... and damn it, I WILL enjoy them

the-viking
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by the-viking » March 12th, 2015, 4:38 pm

Nup..... Didn't have a clue. Lol. Well there you go. Ya learn something every day.

The idea with the miniature filter is it gives an exaggerate DOF appearance, similar to that in close up photography. Not quite the same as when creating a very shallow DOF in say a landscape. If you look at a close up photo the change from focus to non focus area is dramatic, you can almost see a distinct line between the two areas. A shallow depth of field in say a Landscape scene is more subtle. That's to say if you applied a close up photos shallow DOF onto a landscape scene it will give that miniature look. That's esentually what is being done with software filters. :)

Cheers.

kiran92
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » March 26th, 2015, 8:57 am

A few more: mostly off-road fun this time.
Don't you just hate it when your car is the most photogenic ... kinda hard to drive and take pictures :lol:
We.JPG
GOOOO.JPG
_DSC0084.JPG
Think I've hit my my upload limit in one post..
more to come
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I work for my weekends... and damn it, I WILL enjoy them

kiran92
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » March 26th, 2015, 9:53 am

Few more from recent times:
_DSC0054.JPG
modelling (8).JPG
_DSC0092.JPG
All taken on my D3300, the action shots are in sports mode.
The lass making that ranger look good is my current model, co-driver and helper for 4wding, a well trained co-pilot is an essential for off-roading.
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kiran92
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » April 16th, 2015, 7:07 pm

Couple of shots from a few weeks back:
Yes I over use my miniature mode, I'm trying to work out how to replicate the colour saturations manually
IMG_7610.JPG
IMG_7608.JPG
IMG_7578.JPG
Feedback welcome:

I'm aware I need improve my angles, and get away from having the face washed out like that.
Also still trying to get the rule of thirds permanently etched into my mind
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the-viking
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by the-viking » April 17th, 2015, 5:35 am

Hi kiran.
Yes, your liking that miniature mode lol.

What do you mean by 'Replicate the colour saturation manually'?

Remember the 'Rule of Thirds' is a rule not a law. It's a good rule but doesn't always need to be implemented.

The 'Mode' dial on a typical DSLR can be split in half. The Amerture (all the little pictures) half and the Pro (all the letters) half. Definitely 100% use the various auto modes while your getting use to other aspects of the camera and photography. But the eventual aim will, or maybe should be is to step over to the 'Pro' half of the dial, or are you doing that already? You have very little control over your photos when using the 'Amerture' side. If you end up super keen and serious you'll really only use three main settings. S (shutter speed priority), A (Aperture priority) and M (Manual). On certain occasions using RAW file format for the ultimate control.

Aare you putting Water Marks on for a reason?

Cheers.

kiran92
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » April 17th, 2015, 1:33 pm

Yep.

What I mean is, I've done a number of shots of the same thing, with and without, the colours seem more, 'amped up' if that makes sense.
I'm trying to figure out if I can get the colour intensity in manual or if I just have to do it afterwards.
Does that make sense?

Rule of 1/3rds:
I know its not law, but I'd rather that i learn it, then choose to break it, rather than only getting half the time.


I've started using M almost exclusively over the last few weeks, except for off-road shots where I use sports mode.

I don't totally understand what all the settings do, but I'm good at playing with them until it works, I know what they do intellectually, but its easier for me to have a vague idea and spin dials until I get the result I'm looking for.

I tired using RAW images a few weeks back, I blue-screened 2 laptops ... and my surface pro 2 doesn't like it much either.

The watermarking, few reasons:
1: I figure it provides some small degree of digital protection for the image, especially when I'm shooting people, I know how far images spread and it's a bit harder to manipulate a picture with one in it, I usually put them on FB so on my public page i have them watermarked, on my personal one I don't (because you cant see them unless I allow).
2: just having a play with the app I found to do it.
3: I think it adds a 'professional' touch (you may disagree, especially with it splashed right in the centre), and once I've settled on a style I'll mark all of my pix.
I work for my weekends... and damn it, I WILL enjoy them

the-viking
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by the-viking » April 18th, 2015, 8:43 am

Hi Mate.

Adjusting colour saturation is mainly done in post edit and not by adjusting settings. If you don’t already have one, get yourself a Polarizing Filter.

In regards to Rule of Thirds, don’t forget the other Rules too.

Symbols in a nutshell:

For all of these the camera assumes its being hand held.

The ‘Running Man’: The camera prioritizes a fast shutter speed and will adjust all other settings to gain the correct exposure.

The ‘Face’: Camera prioritizes a wide aperture for a shallow Depth of Field as is common for Portraiture Photography.

The ‘Mountains’: Camera prioritizes a small aperture to gain a large Depth of Field, everything in focus.

The ‘Flower’: Camera prioritizes a wide aperture and reasonable fast shutter speed.

So it can be said that by knowing all this you can effectively use a setting for other applications as to what they’re intended for, like the ‘Mountain’ setting to take a photo of a large group of people, like a Footy Team for example, where you want all the players sharp. If you chose ‘The Face’ because you consider the team photo as a portrait, you may get some players in the background or foreground out of focus.

RAW files are big and need the right program and computer to work with that’s for sure.

Watermarks are definitely a personal choice. I have mucked around with them in the past but don’t really use them. I have my metadata set up in Lightroom.


Cheers.

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When to obey/disobey the Rule of Thirds

Unread post by coops62 » April 20th, 2015, 9:03 am

The Rule of Thirds is a guide for composing a photo to make it more interesting composition wise. If you imagine a tic-tac-toe pattern placed over your image, the Rule of Thumb states that there should be “an important compositional element” at the points where the lines intersect and/or along the lines. Though this rule can be very useful, it is not set in stone.
There are times to obey and disobey.
OBEY
HORIZONS
It is rare that you will find a photo where the horizon is in the very centre of the image. Photos with horizons tend to look much more appealing if the sky is taking up either one-third or two-thirds of the image, which would put it on one of the lines of the Rule of Thumb. This goes for both landscape and portrait shots.
PEOPLE OR THINGS IN MOTION
If your subject is moving to the left or right of the frame, it is always good to give them some lead room in the photo. For instance, if your subject is moving to the right, place the subject along the left vertical line and leave and empty space along the right vertical line. It's hard to explain why, but photos are typically much more eye-pleasing when the subject is walking into the frame rather than out.

BALANCE OF SPACE
Perhaps you have heard of negative space before. It is the space in an image in which there is nothing, and it is often used to balance out the busier parts of an image. For example, if you find a beautiful tree alone in the middle of a field, you might try using the negative space around it to balance out the image instead of placing the tree in the centre of the frame. To do this you might place the tree along the left or right side of the frame and leave the other side empty. Or step back and place the tree in the bottom-left or bottom-right corner of the image (where the imaginary lines intersect) and place the horizon along the bottom horizontal line, permitting it's possible with your scene.
DISOBEY
SYMMETRY
If you are trying to create a symmetrical image with colours or buildings or patterns, splitting the image right down the centre of the photo can create a very engaging effect.
HEAD SHOTS
This actually falls under both categories. If your subject is very close and you're doing a head shot, you'll most likely want the person to be in the centre of the frame. Placing the person to one side or the other would seem a bit odd. However, since a person's eyes are the first thing we look at, it works best to put them along the top horizontal line. This almost doesn't need to be said though because if you're filling the frame with your subject's face, this is where they will naturally fall.

WHENEVER YOU FEEL LIKE IT
Photography is an art, not a science. There are no set rules that say how to take a perfect photo. The best thing that you can do is experiment and see what works for you. The Rule of Thirds is in place, not only because it often does produce more appealing images, but to also get the photographer to think outside the box in terms of composition. Framing really can make or break a photo, and placing your subject in the centre is not always going to look best.
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the-viking
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by the-viking » April 20th, 2015, 10:56 am

Btw kiran.....
I meant to point out in regards to RAW files. Be aware that when your shooting in RAW, the image that pops up on your cameras monitor is in fact a Jpeg and not a RAW, and there's a reason for this. A RAW file has no adjustments made to it. Things like sharpening, saturation, contrast and so on, are left for you to do on the computer in your editing program. A RAW image can sometimes look washed out and quite yuck. A lot of the time it's hard to tell the difference. However if the camera showed you the RAW file on the monitor and it was a washed out one, it might misslead you into making unnecessary adjustments. The Jpeg it shows you is like the camera saying. " Hey kiran, with the settings you've set this is what I can do, so you should be able to do the same or better or you may need to make some setting changes." Have I explained that ok?
People who are not aware of this will do a shoot using RAW, be happy with what they see on the cameras LCD screen, only to get home a see the RAW image on the computer, and in some cases go "What!" Then they'll grab the camera and compare the image on the little LCD screen. The first thing they think is their monitor is out of wack. :D cheers.

kiran92
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by kiran92 » April 20th, 2015, 12:27 pm

Thanks Guys,

Im familiar with the symbols and their specific purposes, I have played around with using them out of context too.

I didn't realize the camera didn't show the RAW image though.

My preferred way to view my pics is on the TV, which sadly doesn't support .NEF's

I've slowly started using Paint.NET to edit some photo's, it's a pov-pack version of PS, when it works, the surface pen interface is a joy, the fine control is great.

I'm heading out on Friday night with some other 4wders along the powerlines, so I'll be experimenting with night action shots: is the sports mode going to handle the low light well enough, or would I better off going manual with a high ISO and wide aperture with fast shutter?
I work for my weekends... and damn it, I WILL enjoy them

the-viking
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Re: Random wanderings thread

Unread post by the-viking » April 20th, 2015, 2:42 pm

Definitely no for the 'Sports Mode' for your low light/night shots. Because the camera is going to choose a fast shutter speed, when its confronted with the low light it's only avenue to gain an exposure is to pump up the ISO to ridiculous levels.

If it were me, and to get the best results, I'd be using off camera flash or at the least on camera. That is a dedicated speedlight, not the little pop-up. My suggestion for you though would be to either go Manual, select a shutter speed that is just fast enough to freez the action and select you widest aperture. I guess your using a zoom lens of some sort. Your more or less going to be zooming in and out all the time so your aperture is going to adjust accordingly anyway as you zoom in and out. Your widest aperture is only your widest when your zoomed to your widest focal length. Once you start zooming in, your aperture starts getting smaller. If you use the pop-up flash set your ISO to around 400 or slightly higher even. Don't go to crazy. If your not using flash, especially around the twilight time you could try and see how Auto ISO goes, OR you could use Shutter Speed priority. Again select a speed that is only just getting the action frozen to how you want. What I mean is, if 250th is getting you the results there's no need to be shooting at 1/1000. If you use auto ISO, the slower the shutter speed you use the lower the ISO that will be selected by the camera.
To reiterate:
1. As slow a shutter speed as practicable.
2. Your widest aperture.
3. If using flash start of around 400 ISO
4. If not using flash try Auto ISO, but keep an eye on it.
:)
Last edited by the-viking on April 20th, 2015, 3:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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