Nissan Pathy/Terrano/Navara D21 Nuts & Bolts

Whether it's your first tourer or a hardcore playtruck, show us your vehicle or what you're building inside, and keep us up to date on your mods as they happen!
Pathrol
Here and there
Posts: 89
Joined: July 24th, 2008, 8:51 pm
Location: Melb.

Unread post by Pathrol » November 26th, 2008, 5:29 pm

Punished wrote:I'll post some photos on the front end soon.

Did you have to play with anything else after the 3in blocks went in, like the steering or Battery Cables?

What are doing to the beast?
The only thing to watch is the brake lines. They are coiled but make sure they don't kink by pulling on them. The other thing is the hoop under the rear drive shaft (just behind the transfer case; remove it. Everything else, other than resetting the bumpers and the radiator, will be fine. The rear bumper is easy to move up. It has holes already in place. I don't know about the front bumper, I have always had winch bars. You can extend the Pathy steering shaft between the rag joint and the steering box. I tried this with very limited success. Best option is to get a steering column from a 4x4 Navara and whack that it. They are longer than the Pathy one.

As for my old girl... She is getting some TLC at the moment.


A divorced transfer case.
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A modified getrag 5 speed gear box.

A new V6 Commodore engine (140k on it).

Front and rear lockers. That is happening at the moment.

Might be this year, probably next year....

Coil overs for the front and a new MQ live axle that has not been rotated.
[url=http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=5065&im=1]'87 Pathfinder[/url],


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Pathrol
Here and there
Posts: 89
Joined: July 24th, 2008, 8:51 pm
Location: Melb.

Unread post by Pathrol » November 26th, 2008, 5:32 pm

Some more of the transfer case's transformation.

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[url=http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=5065&im=1]'87 Pathfinder[/url],


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Pathrol
Here and there
Posts: 89
Joined: July 24th, 2008, 8:51 pm
Location: Melb.

Unread post by Pathrol » November 26th, 2008, 5:37 pm

A few more..

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The best part of this mod is that from looking at the car on the street or track, you'd never know that there is a divorced transfer case under it. It doesn't hang down at all.

Not only that, the car will actually have more ground clearance now that I have removed and replaced the rear cross member too.
[url=http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=5065&im=1]'87 Pathfinder[/url],


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Punished
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Posts: 28
Joined: September 10th, 2008, 2:35 pm
Location: VIC

Unread post by Punished » November 27th, 2008, 7:19 am

Pathrol wrote:A few more..

The best part of this mod is that from looking at the car on the street or track, you'd never know that there is a divorced transfer case under it. It doesn't hang down at all.

Not only that, the car will actually have more ground clearance now that I have removed and replaced the rear cross member too.

I'm impressed, it will be awesome to see the final product. Would be great if you keep posting pics of the buildup.

I've posted some pics of the centrelink, they don't show much. You will notice though, how the bolt goes straight through the tie rod and the centrelink.

Punished
Here and there
Posts: 28
Joined: September 10th, 2008, 2:35 pm
Location: VIC

IFS Centrelink Mods

Unread post by Punished » November 27th, 2008, 7:32 am

Here are some pics of the modified centrelink.

For those wanting to try it at home don't, the centrelink is hardened steel and you'll need highspeed diamond drill bits.

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Pathrol
Here and there
Posts: 89
Joined: July 24th, 2008, 8:51 pm
Location: Melb.

Unread post by Pathrol » November 27th, 2008, 3:32 pm

I can see that you have done some work there Punished. ;) Have you got before and after pics of the drag link?

Might I suggest something? A picture of the drag link out and the modifications all noted. People will not try or buy what they can't see or understand.

Some questions I'd ask if I were to buy a product would be.......

Do you use any bushing with the modified set up and is the drag link fully serviceable etc?

How long will the drag link last whilst being used in say medium to hard 4x4 situations before I have to replace components etc.

If you can get this info out into the Pathy community, then I think you are on a winner.

Cheers,

Steve.
[url=http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=5065&im=1]'87 Pathfinder[/url],


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swoehm
I'm new, be nice!
Posts: 2
Joined: September 28th, 2007, 1:59 pm

Unread post by swoehm » January 16th, 2009, 9:11 am

Sorry to bring this thread back to life, however are you able to provide more details on what you actually did to the centrelink. I can see that the ball joints are replaced with bolts. So what did you need to do and what size bolts did you use?

Cheers,
Scott

_________________________
'94 Pathfinder, Stock for now!

Punished
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Posts: 28
Joined: September 10th, 2008, 2:35 pm
Location: VIC

Unread post by Punished » January 19th, 2009, 10:05 am

swoehm wrote:Sorry to bring this thread back to life, however are you able to provide more details on what you actually did to the centrelink. I can see that the ball joints are replaced with bolts. So what did you need to do and what size bolts did you use?

Cheers,
Scott

_________________________
'94 Pathfinder, Stock for now!

Hi Scott. The original centrelink has had the tie rod end's replaced.

1.) On the Pitman arm side a hardened polyurathane bush has been custom made to fit which pivots on a M10HT bolt.
2.) On the idler arm side a hime joint has been used. This side required a bit of machining to suit the new hime joint. Again fixed with a M10HT bolt.
3.) Both fixtures are greaseable via the grease nipple on the side of the casting.

Basics of a Hime Joint
The Hime Joint comprises an annular shaped socket. The socket encases a freely movable ball shaped member with an included opening in the center, straight insert, which is mounted and secured within the included opening of the freely movable ball shaped member of the Hime Joint. This embodiment is attached to the ball shaped member by a bolt passed entirely through the embodiment which is secured by a nut on the bottom.

The idea behind using a flexable fixture (hime) on the idler arm side is to prevent premiture wear and tear on it's bushes under extream loads when the centrelink twists. The force used to get transfered into the idler arm, now there are only horizonal forces directed through the idler arm from steering inputs, which is originally what the Nissan engineers would have designed for.

I used a fixed poly bush on the pitman arm side because it is allot stronger than the idler arm and has no wear and tear issues. One question I think will come up is, How long will the poly bush last before it needs replacing? I can't yet answer this. I've been using it for about 2 years in moderate to extream conditions, but infrequently, about 20 trips over that time. I was told the bush is quite easy to replace. If I was to help supply the product I think I would include a spare set of poly bushes or at least offer it.

I have used this setup on some serious off-road trips and it is amazing the differences it's made to the whole driving experience. I used to hate venturing out wondering in the back of my mind will I get a little over excited (which is what it's all about) and bend the tie rods today!!! Or will my trip fall short of its destination for the same reason and disappoint the convoy....

Hope thats enough information for you to sort something out. If you have no luck, let me know and I'll make a few phone calls and see if I can get one made again.

kind regards,
Andrew

swoehm
I'm new, be nice!
Posts: 2
Joined: September 28th, 2007, 1:59 pm

Unread post by swoehm » January 21st, 2009, 8:04 am

Very nice write up! I think this gives me more than enough info to work from. Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Scott

_________________________
'94 Pathfinder, Stock for now!

Pathrol
Here and there
Posts: 89
Joined: July 24th, 2008, 8:51 pm
Location: Melb.

Unread post by Pathrol » January 29th, 2009, 8:59 am

Well done Punished.
[url=http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=5065&im=1]'87 Pathfinder[/url],


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brens path
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Joined: October 1st, 2007, 10:52 am

Unread post by brens path » February 1st, 2009, 2:34 pm

Hi punished,
Love the rig bro, nice work, great to see someone doing it right.
What side of town are you on?
If your over my side of town or if your up this way sometime i would love to have a better look at the machine.
Email me if thats easier,.....brenandnett@hotmail.com

Michael70
Getting to know the place
Posts: 16
Joined: June 13th, 2008, 12:48 pm
Location: Melbourne, VIC

Unread post by Michael70 » February 12th, 2009, 10:02 pm

G'day Punished,

Obviously you have a lot of mechanical nouse with the set-up of your steering arms, but for the non-mechanical that love their WD21 Pathfinders can you recommend someone that could do this work? Also is it a standard thing or should I get them to read your post?

Also what would I expect to pay to have this done?

Thanks for sharing the knowledge and a big hello to Pathrol and other Pathfinder nuts that keep these old machines going.

Punished
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Posts: 28
Joined: September 10th, 2008, 2:35 pm
Location: VIC

Unread post by Punished » February 13th, 2009, 7:47 am

Michael70 wrote:G'day Punished,

Obviously you have a lot of mechanical nouse with the set-up of your steering arms, but for the non-mechanical that love their WD21 Pathfinders can you recommend someone that could do this work? Also is it a standard thing or should I get them to read your post?

Also what would I expect to pay to have this done?

Thanks for sharing the knowledge and a big hello to Pathrol and other Pathfinder nuts that keep these old machines going.

Hi Michael,
Someone who could do this sort of work would have to be able to machine parts, like a driveshaft shop. You will also need to find someone with some sort of vehicle building background, whether it be hot Rods, drag Cars or anything custom. I didn't mention 4x4 specialists because this job is fiddley and does require some attention to detail. And remember we are talking independent suspension, which is what allot of hod rods and custom-built show cars run. So don't think you need to go to a 4x4 specialist to find what you need.

If you don’t fully understand the concept of loads and selection of bushes, then I recommend you take the post and some photos. If not photo’s, then go to the wreckers and pick up a centrelink & pitman arm, I would by a new idler arm as these wear on the factory setup. Take these parts down to your selected fitter so they can see for them selves what there dealing with.

You could expect to pay anywhere between $650-800, although the current financial crisis may have drive these prices down, I’m not sure. It all depends on how many diamond drill bits they break!! The centrelink is hardened steel and very hard to machine. That’s why your average 4x4 mechanic will oversize steering components because they only use mild steel with treaded tie rod/hime joint ends. Either option works you just need someone to attempt it and something that fits in the tight space on the pathy front end.

Like I’ve said in a previous post, express your interest in numbers then I can make some calls and possible greatly reduce the cost of these one off items. So far two people have expressed interest. I’m more than happy for you to go down your own paths and look into it, just as I did many years ago. But wouldn’t it be great to show numbers to try and open someone’s eyes here in OZ to maybe produce this product for everyone, rather than getting ripped by the States.

Let me know how you go :)

Punished
Here and there
Posts: 28
Joined: September 10th, 2008, 2:35 pm
Location: VIC

Unread post by Punished » February 13th, 2009, 7:56 am

brens path wrote:Hi punished,
Love the rig bro, nice work, great to see someone doing it right.
What side of town are you on?
If your over my side of town or if your up this way sometime i would love to have a better look at the machine.
Email me if thats easier,.....brenandnett@hotmail.com

Hi mate,
I am south west of melbourne.
And yourself?

Michael70
Getting to know the place
Posts: 16
Joined: June 13th, 2008, 12:48 pm
Location: Melbourne, VIC

Unread post by Michael70 » February 13th, 2009, 9:26 pm

Thanks for your reply Punished,

Looks like it really is a specialist job to get those arms and bushes done, but it does look worthwhile. If you can ever find someone to manufacture these parts on a semi-production basis be sure to let me know as I will love the work to be done.

I use my Pathy mainly for camping and hunting and find that it can get me to some pretty scary spots even in standard trim (235x75R15 Pirelli Scorpions & Ironman suspension), but I would like the reassurance of the bolstered steering parts and whatever else I can get my hands on as frankly I love the Pathy.

Could make my life easier by getting a Hilux, Cruiser or Patrol but the little Pathy has sentimental value and hasn't let me down so far so I would like to modify it to give me more reasons to retain it a bit longer.

Apparently there is a diff locker that fits but I have yet to have this confirmed by anyone who retails them. They all seem to only have lockers for the R50 and not the WD21 don't know why. If I could get a rear locker and a snorkel then I would be a very happy man.

The only real problem that I have with the Pathy is the fact that everything you need has to be custom made, well for the early models anyway.

Its great to see that you have somthing different and hard-core. I believe that you and Pathrol could match with the best on here; regardless of what they are.

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