Willys Pickup

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Peter Aawen
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Peter Aawen » December 17th, 2017, 6:58 pm

edz wrote:
December 17th, 2017, 5:20 pm
You know Marcus, Its almost going to be a shame to cover all this custom build work with paint and trim ..
Yeah, I reckon a few coats of clear & it's all done! And it'll look a whole lot better'n the Terrain Tamer Troopy! :thumb:
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

Gojeep
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Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 18th, 2017, 9:04 am

Ha ha, thanks Peter. :)
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » January 15th, 2018, 7:49 pm

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Played around seeing if I could use the stock door check strap with the bar going into the A pillar instead of the door, to aviod the one piece windows, but just couldn't get it to work that way. So I'm going the same way as many Jeeps have. Going to start by welding this heavier gauge angle inside the door and A pillar where mounts will be fixed.

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Angle plug welded into position inside the door. This is just to make sure the screws don't get pulled through should the door be caught by a gust of wind or let go when parked on a side slope!

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Ground down the welds and pilot holes drilled.

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Bought some stainless steel footman loops and using an old leather belt for mock up.

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These a often called Chicago Rivets or Screw Backs. I got nickel plated brass ones with a 8mm-5/16" head diameter. They just screw into themselves making riveting leather easy. Strap can be wrapped around a bar for instance that is already welded into place.
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I have got it on back to front to make it easier to work out the length I need to make the strap.

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Works really well and this mock up strap will work as a template for when it is time to do upholstery.

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I'm actually trying to find another one of these belts that I used to have to make the strap from in the final version. Can't seem to find them anymore so if someone stops one, please let me know. The only belts I can find with Jeep stamped on them now have it only once at the very end with the belt holes too close to use it.
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » January 22nd, 2018, 9:14 am

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Been nearly 2 1/2 years since I stripped the paint off the grille parts and ran them through the citric acid bath to remove any rust before spraying with lanolin. Glad to see that it didn't rust sitting in the garage in all that time.

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I am starting by adding an extra grille slot on each side by using a bigger centre section cut from another grille to do it.

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You face little problems like this with the top face not matching up due to the taper.

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After welding all except the turned lip on the inside, I will refold the wider part to blend in with the rest. The stake I'm forming it over is some 16mm steel from a towbar tongue and fits inside, so will hammer along its edge.

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The blend worked quite well. The lip on the inside was trimmed so it all was the same length.

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So this is the first part of the widening as this only added 5" and need a total of 9" to match the extra width of the cab. 2" on each side will be added between the headlight hole and the side of the grille. The slotted area of the grille matches the donor Grand Cherokee radiator core width. The extra 2" each side will have the tanks behind it. Hoping the headlights will still fit!

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On the wall above on the left is the original 1948 grille and the one on the right in the 1958 grille. I have been shooting for a blend of the two styles.
Cheers, Marcus

Rattles
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Joined: December 18th, 2009, 2:59 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Rattles » January 22nd, 2018, 10:10 am

Marcus - Re Leather Door Strap, Why use a metal Jeep Badge or add Jeep Lettering to a metal plate to press an impression into the leather belting ??

As to how see Link http://kristkustoms.com/logostamp.html, or even on the this site have your custom stamp made.

Rattles
Last edited by Rattles on January 22nd, 2018, 11:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

Gojeep
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » January 22nd, 2018, 11:31 am

You would need the reverse image for it to work. I might look at some letter stamps when the time comes.
Cheers, Marcus

Rattles
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Rattles » January 22nd, 2018, 11:35 am

Marcus see amended with link Below - The country of Origin of the site is U.S. Use the "Back" button and navigate to the About Us "Button"
Link http://kristkustoms.com/logostamp.html

You will note the dies work on Vinyl and Leather.

Rattles

Gojeep
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » January 22nd, 2018, 12:06 pm

Missed the link the first time I read your reply! That is the sort of stamp that would be great to have for sure. Be pricey to have it custom made but see when the time comes. Thanks Rattles. :)
Cheers, Marcus

BigDutchy
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by BigDutchy » January 28th, 2018, 9:17 pm

Still loving all your work Marcus.

Gojeep
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » January 29th, 2018, 8:04 am

Glad to hear it mate. :)
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » February 4th, 2018, 5:46 pm

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I am going to run the radiator and the huge hydraulic fan, that is controlled by the ECU, from the donor to make sure there are no overheating problems. It only just all fits in the engine bay but would like some more 'service' room to change a belt etc. Been wondering how best to lengthen the engine bay without moving the centreline of the wheels inside the wheel arch. On my 1948 front guards, like these ones above, the front curves and goes straight across to the grille.

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On the 1950 and later models it goes ahead of the grille before coming back to the same point. So my idea is to leave the outside of the guard alone and just bring the inside point forward, making a blend of the two styles.

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Scribed a line 90* to the outside of the guard where the panel just starts to curve downwards.

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Cut along the line and forward along the centre crease line.

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Also slit the bottom flange at the bottom of the crease line as well as the panel join so it could be pulled forward.

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I didn't pull it right forward until straight as wanted some curve back left as thought it looked better and was a blend of the two styles as well.

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Need to extend the inner guard forward I decided I might as well remove the pressing for the shock mount that I no longer need. I started the shaping by just pushing over a T dolly that was a similar radius to the back half of the inner guard. The front half just needs a curve instead so left that alone.
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » February 4th, 2018, 5:48 pm

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With the inner guard all welded in I could fill the gaps left.

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I radiused a compound curve over a steam pipe bend just using a nylon headed mallet.

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Some truing up over the ripping tooth.

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Bent the crease line up over the edge of the bench to match. I made the patch this big rather than try and weld in two triangular pieces as that would be more welding and coming together at a sharp point would distort badly.

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I try to get it the best I can before tacking and welding into place.

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So longer one at the rear and stock one at the front.

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I think it is subtle enough that most would never pick it yet it gives me 40mm-1.5" more room between the back of the fan and the front of the engine.

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I think the longer bonnet to match will help with the proportions of the longer/wider cab as well. The bonnet in the middle to cover the bigger V in the wider grille adds another 40mm-1.5", making the total bonnet 80mm-3.2" longer overall.
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » February 9th, 2018, 7:44 pm

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Fixing up this welded up crack in the other guard. The other side was fine but they are prone to cracking here, so will cut it out rather than just smooth this old weld out.

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Traced the curve and then added the lip width to it and then cut along that line before any shaping took place. You don't want to work with more material than needed when bending in a tight radius. Once the fold is hammered along the line with a high crown hammer to about 45*, I switch to this hammer I got from Peter Tommasini to finish off the folding into the inside corner.

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Checking against the corner being replaced before it is cut out makes sure you keep the radius the same.

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Outside edge shaped to fit and corners rounded before I then scribe around the patch to cut out the bad section underneath.

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Welded into place making sure I had full penetration. If any of the join on the inside is still visible, I weld over it before any grinding has taken place. This means you are welding with the full weld depth on the outside stopping blow through.

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Using a grinding disc with some pressure to get some heat into the weld to anneal it some, helps prevent cracking I have found. Take it down to razor blade thickness inside and out. Then hammer on dolly to stretch the weld back to flat. Then sand to flush before hitting it with a strip disc
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » February 9th, 2018, 7:45 pm

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This side had pitting and some small spots rusted through. This section bolts under the cowl. If the windscreen leaks at all it ends up caught inside the bottom of the cowl until one day it rusts all the way through and onto this area. No drain hole from the factory so I made sure it has one now when I remade the bottom of the cowl.

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Rather than make a lot of little repairs I just replaced the whole section. Folded it first and then stretched the flange to get it to curve. Some more shaping over the anvil and stake dollies to get it to sit flat.

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Traced the factory mounting holes and cut them out exactly the same. They look strangely aligned but they point along the centeline of the cab.

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Put the other guard in place to check the look of the changed front curve making it the 40mm-1.5" longer. Think it works well and the first time in 7 years since the guard was last in place!

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This angle makes the guard look longer than it really is, but fits in with the longer cab.
Cheers, Marcus

ian.gonzo
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Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by ian.gonzo » February 12th, 2018, 3:34 pm

Looks good Marcus, in fact much better than the original and hopefully will give you sufficient engine room without having to reshape the firewall.

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