Willys Pickup

Whether it's your first tourer or a hardcore playtruck, show us your vehicle or what you're building inside, and keep us up to date on your mods as they happen!
Gojeep
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » November 30th, 2017, 5:07 pm

jclures wrote:
November 30th, 2017, 4:33 pm
I think there is a few of us that come to read this thread, I know I do.
Wasn't sure if you still dropped in for a gander. :)

Pity there is no 'like' button like most forums now a days to let people know you are watching but don't have a comment to make.
Cheers, Marcus

jclures
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Posts: 547
Joined: October 14th, 2005, 10:18 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by jclures » November 30th, 2017, 9:44 pm

I have been a bit sidetracked for a while, not just on this forum though.

BigDutchy
Need to get out more
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Joined: November 6th, 2009, 6:58 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by BigDutchy » December 2nd, 2017, 8:10 am

jclures wrote:
November 30th, 2017, 4:33 pm
I think there is a few of us that come to read this thread, I know I do.
Yep, that's me!!

ian.gonzo
Here and there
Posts: 56
Joined: May 12th, 2011, 5:03 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by ian.gonzo » December 4th, 2017, 3:13 pm

Hi Marcus
Main reason I come to this forum is to follow your build, have enjoyed your marticulus workmanship right from the start and hopefully will see the end some day.

Gojeep
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 4th, 2017, 5:04 pm

ian.gonzo wrote:
December 4th, 2017, 3:13 pm
Hi Marcus
Main reason I come to this forum is to follow your build, have enjoyed your marticulus workmanship right from the start and hopefully will see the end some day.
Many thanks Ian and hope you see it one day too as would mean I finally finished it! :)
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 4th, 2017, 7:31 pm

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Door trims are next on the list of things to do. One set I already stripped of paint had hardly a scratch on it. The second set you can see they must have driven a lot with the window down and the elbow out the window. Get fined for doing that here now a days! :)

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I needed the door lock button to come through the trim so tried a few different ways. The rear most one was using the donor piece but it jammed the button as the angle was not right. Tried a grommet and raised the metal to get it flatter, but still didn't like the look. So think I will go with the closest one with the flared hole.

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To make the flare I practised on some scrap first. Ground the top of a tube, that had the inside diameter I wanted, to match the curve of the trim.

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Then simply drove a rope splicing spike through the hole. Would be 35 years since I learnt this craft when doing my farrier training! Could also use a podgy or round bar shaped to suit as well.

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Looks better than just a hole with a sharp edge.

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The hole was drilled 10mm-3/8" with the final hole size of 13mm-1/2". I tapped the spike in a little from the backside as well to turn the flare outwards so an edge wouldn't dig into the button.

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I think this gives a neater finish than the grommets.

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Using a different frame for the front and rear sections to make up the 115mm-4.5" longer doors, meant the mounting holes in the middle were unevenly spaced. Originally thought I could live with that when I cut them this way, but turns out I can't!

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Using my trusty old cobbler's hammer, I hammered the flare flat from the inside. Also noted the now smaller hole size to help with making a new depression later.
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 4th, 2017, 7:32 pm

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A quick tack over a big old brass cable lug fills the hole. You can see how the underside of the top piece comes out using this technique.

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Pieces clamped down to the bench to keep it all aligned while welding.

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Now to make the new counter sink depression match the factory ones. I used the centre punch pictured and hammered it over a bar I drilled to match the outside diameter of the flare I wanted.

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The bar was drilled offset slightly to still centre under the hole between the trim edges. Bar was ground to match the trim and held in the vice like the lock button hole.

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The trim was also placed face down on the bench and hammered with the drilled bar to make the flare more distinct. Factory flare above with test piece below.

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Holes now evenly spaced. :)

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I noticed the doors would change alignment too easily since the piece between the inner and outer sides was cutout for the one piece window conversion. I needed a way to brace the ends around the back of the window channel so I made up this piece to do it.

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I fitted a similar piece at both ends even though it was only braced at the front before. This was welded in later and it stopped all the movement I had and the doors hold their shape now.

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Trim now finished. I also added an extra mounting screw along the top as well. Needed to weld in a saddle into the frame for the screw to go into, like the stock ones had, otherwise the screw would go right through to the outside!
Cheers, Marcus

ian.gonzo
Here and there
Posts: 56
Joined: May 12th, 2011, 5:03 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by ian.gonzo » December 5th, 2017, 10:02 am

Looks good Marcus, Cheers Ian

edz
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Joined: August 2nd, 2008, 1:37 am
Location: On an Island

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by edz » December 6th, 2017, 12:51 pm

Looks great Marcus , On the modern door trim style of things, Have you given any thoughts to make a thin Fibreglass shell moulded from the Donor Jeeps trims that have been shaped with EPS foam and plaster to suit the Willys door size .. Then have the new covered in the same leather / vinyl
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hiZ_1IzvkI
" WE GO WITH WHAT WE'VE GOT "
" WHAT WE HAV'NT WE GO WITH OUT "

Gojeep
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 6th, 2017, 1:36 pm

Have seen that process and be something to think about if it needs more depth. Thanks
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
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Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 10th, 2017, 6:10 pm

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This is the harness from the donor I need to add. There is no way the rubber part will squeeze down to the 5mm gap I have between the door and the A pillar, nor do I want such big holes in either side.

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My idea is to have a hole only big enough for the round corrugated part to slide in and out of on the A pillar side. By removing the plastic housing the boot ends fitted on, the plugs pass through sideways and the wide part of the boot fits through once rolled up.

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I have drilled a hole 14mm-9/16" smaller than the round part of the boot in the A pillar. I made this tool to flare the hole.

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The slot fits over the edge of the hole like this.

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Then you pull up a little bit at a time and work your way around the hole. The T handle works well making sure the slot is always bottomed out while pulling on it. I used the small mallet to help it around as the flare got over about 45*. Could also hit against the underside of handle to pull the hole level if it sank in at all.

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Once nearly there I tapped through the hammer which was the size I wanted in the end. Helped round the hole a bit more too.

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It left a 7mm-1/4" flare which will stop the corrugated part of the boot getting caught as it goes in and out while using the door.
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 10th, 2017, 6:14 pm

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Once the flare was finished I was able to pass a holesaw right through and drill out the other side of the A pillar to get the wires and plugs through. So the hole at the start was 29mm-1.1/8". The 10mm-3/8" slot opened up the hole to 43mm-1.11/16", 14mm bigger. I had done a test hole first to see what I would end up with. But the slot needs to be half the depth you want the diametre to increase by, plus about 2.5 times the material thickness.

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With the plugs all the way through the A pillar and the wide part of the boot inside it, you can push and pull the boot in and out even on the angles it will see with the door opening and closing without it catching.

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Now the door side I don't want to move so I want the final hole size to be the small diameter of the corrugated grooves. I am still going to make a small flare so the edge of the hole doesn't cut through the boot over time. Notice the angled cut along with the other one on top.

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The angled cut is so I can start the flare and clear the hinge and the edge of the door. I switch to the other slot once about halfway done flaring.

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So this hole was 25mm-1" to start with it ended up at 33mm-1.5/16", 8mm-5/16" bigger. This was with a 5mm-3/16" slot and with a 4mm-5/32" deep flare.

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With the big oval part of the boot inside the door and the depth of the flare inside the narrowest part of the boot grooves, it sits there firmly.

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A this is how it looks when all in place. Can also just make out one of the plugs in the cavity inside the kick panel area once it has passed right through the A pillar. To remove the door I simply unplug from there and pull the boot through followed by the plugs and only takes a minute or so.
Cheers, Marcus

Gojeep
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 16th, 2017, 8:48 pm

Only a little update.

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Doing what I can on the windscreen trim. The windscreen is 220mm-9" wider than stock so each side has to extend half of that. No height change as the whole windscreen frame was lowered instead by sectioning the cowl 50mm-2".

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The defrost louver lengthening finished. This is all you will see from the inside of the cab.

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Enough airflow to work the defrost from the longer stock louver. The mounting holes were welded up and moved and repunched to be even where needed.

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Now the door modifications are completed, I am stripping the doors right down and removing the hinges so I can spray the inside with a zinc coating. I drill a couple of small holes through the inner door skin and into the hinge so I can put them right back in the same spot. Each hinge was drilled differently so I know from where they came. When putting the hinge back, just line up the holes and screw it down.
Cheers, Marcus

edz
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Joined: August 2nd, 2008, 1:37 am
Location: On an Island

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by edz » December 17th, 2017, 5:20 pm

You know Marcus, Its almost going to be a shame to cover all this custom build work with paint and trim ..
" WE GO WITH WHAT WE'VE GOT "
" WHAT WE HAV'NT WE GO WITH OUT "

Gojeep
Part of the furniture
Posts: 1403
Joined: September 11th, 2003, 6:35 pm

Re: Willys Pickup

Unread post by Gojeep » December 17th, 2017, 5:52 pm

Thanks mate. Looking forward to not working inside the cab in the New Year. That is about all will do at this stage and will move on to the guards, grille and bonnet next. :)
Cheers, Marcus

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