Black Bull's Gen2/3 Hybrid Lux

Black Bull
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Black Bull's Gen2/3 Hybrid Lux

Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:02 am

This build has been published elsewhere so I'll edit and post the whole thing here.
My Rig started off as a bog stock LN 65 Hilux
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I originally put a Group 3 spec 253 in it about 10 years ago for a mate, After doing what I think it was the third set of head gaskets He bought a 308 off a young guy who'd wrapped his ***** hot Statesman around a tree.

The guy had wanted to keep his Timing gears so it arrived with none, at which point my mate snapped the locating dowel off the cam, being the rev-heads we are we went for the biggest cam that would fit in it, I'm unsure of the specs but it proved to be a good choice, it pulls from about 800 rpm till it valve bounces at about 5500rpm, it also meant a new bell housing as the 308 was a turbo pattern.

This created another problem, in the space of 3 months we munched 4 Gearboxes, and that was on the tar!! never had it off road.

The solution was to use the majority of a G'box from an imported Turbo V6 (got no idea what it was ) some surf and supra parts thrown in and so far it's held up to anything thrown at it, including flat 1st, 2nd changes with he front wheels in the air!! :cool:
Then it changed hands a few times and then I bought it, by then it was run into the ground, brakes, suspension, body & everything except the engine was shagged.

I dragged it into the shed for a general tidy up before Rego, as you can see it got somewhat out of control. the new shocks I bought were way to long so I decided to fabricate new mounting points, then I thought why not shorten the chassis as well......it goes on.

Dummy fit of Shocks
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Starting on the new cross member, in case your wondering, those holes are from what used a cross member that held the fuel tank. as I intended on a different idea I just cut it out....more on the tanks later
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All welded in, I hope the Geometry works
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Note the new rear cross member where the chassis has been shortened
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I thought while I'm at it I'll invert the shackles and make new shock mounts, which I machined out of 1" plate and welded to the axle tubes
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Last edited by Deans4by on December 28th, 2011, 6:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: Change Build Title

Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:05 am

The cab turned out to be pretty much stuffed, bucket loads of rust hiding where it couldn't be seen.
Not long after the last update I moved, very little was done, with exception of starting on the tray so I could mount the Fuel tanks. (and I'm no longer going to use the square alloy one I had)
Due to no longer having an undercover area to work on it and lack of time, I bit the bullet and was looking to buy a whole truck, then on that wonderful invention called Ebay. I found a guy in the Sydney area selling a dressed 94 SR5 Extra Cab body....$540 later and it was mine :D
here it is fresh off the trailer. Note the old "convertible" cab still sitting on the chassis
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There are a few minor differences in the bodies between 84 and 94 apart from the cosmetic ones.
the floor pans are different, lucky I already had a 3" lift kit I 'd made
(more on that in a bit) as the cab wouldn't have gone on without it.
The steering column is also different and I had to cut and shut it with the old one to make it work, good thing is I no longer need the steering shaft extension.
The biggest difference though, the later cab is almost a foot longer!!! I had to re-locate the rear cab mounts, which also means I'm going to have to re-fabricate all my tray mounts :'(

Here it is all bolted up

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Note my shiny new alloy 3" body blocks (totally one of a kind!!)
Basically, the way I drive this thing will get rolled sooner or later, I wanted to make these things as strong as possible.

I bored the center of the 100mm round block out to 16mm and counter bored one end to 21mm
then using some 13/16" tool steel I machined up some pins with a shoulder to fit inside the alloy blocks and cut female threads into each end of them
This is my "prototype"
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The rubber body mounts go on as usual (they're all new and Damned expensive too!! near $230 worth :'( )
then the Alloy block bolts up to the body. with a crush type washer that's 3mm thick it goes over the pin, and a second washer under the bolt then clamps the block to the body, making it an integral part and removes any shear load on the bolt
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the rubber mounts then bolt to the underside of the block as they would normally.
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Almost looks factory with all the tojo emissions crap removed

Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:08 am

Today, I modified the right hand rocker cover for clearance on the firewall, on the last body, it didn't have aircon so we massaged the firewall, I want to hook up the AC on this one (must be getting soft :@)
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I got a really good deal on some alloy American racing rims and 35" Rubber. they had been sitting in the sun for a while and needed a polish, they came up grouse and will make a great runaround set

Before
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Rubbed back with 2000 grit paper ready for final polish :waycool:
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Polished :D
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Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:10 am

Next task was Wiring, Something I'm extremely fussy about as it can cause so many headaches :thumb:

Anyway, started off with a 16 circuit fuse holder atm it's only wired up for 12 circuits which also include future mods such as EFI, LPG and Air compressor. all totally modular
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Then made a relay panel
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Together
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Fitted and wired in to the body
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next I hooked up the ignition system and filled the carby with fuel. and yes it started first time, you can't believe how happy I am now it runs again :D
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It's not totally finished yet, but 80% of it is done

Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:14 am

I have managed to get a bit done, first the Heatwave and then the bloody rain....what next? Snow ?

new benches are coming along nicely, should be mainly finished by Sunday I hope

All tacked together

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Clamped down so no warpage, that plate it's on is the piece for the top and it's 10mm thick :grin:

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Semi-Finished, Covered the top in Lanolin and moved it outside the shed so I could do the other one

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Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:16 am

I've been busy setting up and building stuff for my shed, two benchs are finished, I have most of the materal for the 3rd,
I've also built 2 pedestals for my bench grinders, worked out really trick, legs are 65x65 and the upright is 100x100,
fully seam welded and then filled with about 12 litres of oil. they work really well. nice and stable even with the huge 100mm multitool on it.
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Why oil filled ? the original stand I had the grinder on, the whole shed used to resonate with the grinder, which meant I could only use them during the day,
the new stands transmit zero vibraton, I can be in the shed polishing stuff etc in the middle
of the night without annoying the neighbours or wearing hearing protection.
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Today I finished mounting my new JD2 bender, i got it for a bargain price of $1000 with 2 sets of dies. :peaceout:
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I gave it a test run with some 32nb heavy black pipe. took some effort but bent it nicely with only minor crushing :mrgreen:
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Since my last post I've also purchased a pair of lockers and another winch (Warn 8000 low mount), I've also blown a packet on braided line and fittings for the fuel system.

The tanks are about 70% done, just waiting on more steel so I can build the base of the tray and mount them to work out filler points etc

Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:21 am

As I'm still waiting on parts and steel I bit the bullet and started tearing into the old girl.

here she is on stands with the chassis set perfectly level, before
I pulled it apart I marked the diff centreline which you can see in the last photo. ( Got to love my Garage!! )
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And now I have to cut off all this :rant:

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I plan to remount the diff about 70mm forward of the old centreline, so the diff will be set forward be about 5" forward from factory.
The plan is to be able to run up to a 38" tyre with a cut set of gaurds for play, and 37" tyres with the surf gaurds currently fitted,
but with the wheel arches stretched forward.

was 4 degrees out there tonight so had to keep warm :grin:

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The original Gearbox cross-member as it sat
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The old and the new, 4mm 100x50 structural RHS
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Setting up the transmission mount first so i have a reference for the rest of it
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Mount is bolted up ready for more fun tomorrow.
so I started on the next bit, I can't say strongly enough how handy a really good quality Countersinking bit is
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So far my 2nd hand $250 ebay special pedestal drill is copping everything it's been asked of.
Makes a difference with a new Jacobs chuck fitted though.($50 from Ebay too!) :hehe:
It even survived running a 100mm hole saw through 6mm of 316 stainless!!!

Got the Gearbox mount done, I'll use the standard one for now and get a trail gear one later. Also, tacked on lower arm links
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Cut and Notched into final shape
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Then I did a 45 degree Fillet on each join to allow a full pen weld, I'll add gussets and maybe some fish plates later, I think the Cross member is gunna be stronger than the chassis it's welded to though :crazy:

Ignore the tabs, that's something for maybe later
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I'm loving having a dedicated power supply for my Mig, no more starving for power. and the fact I bought a 200 amp Mig for $250 bucks :cool:

The plates I was using the coutersinking bit on in the last post turned out like this, they're fish plates for the G/box C/member mount, changed plans and had to make another set though first pic is the original ones
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So after doing that I started on these bits, which will actually bolt in the Cross member. I think 8, half inch grade 8 bolts should be enough to hold it in :rolleyes:
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Welding the crush tubes onto them

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Got as far as I could with that today so quickly whipped up these Backing plate eliminators.
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Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:24 am

Well back from Sunny North Queensland, God I hate Sydney!

The gearbox Cross member is ready to go in
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Joins should be strong enough, four 8.8, half inch bolts each side

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Cut out the old cross member mounts and cleaned up one front rail....what a bugger of a job!!

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Nice pile of scrap

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Well it's in, bloody hard to work under a truck with a bung knee, no hoist and no concrete. good news is, I've got an appointment with the Surgeon tomorrow, so will finally find out what's going on with it

Fishplates and Crossmember in, still have to add a small scalop for the front tailshaft, top mounts and Gussets, but you get the idea

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Old C/Member clamped up for comparison, I've gained 3 Inches in clearance

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Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:26 am

I've also added a sump to he bottom of the tank to help prevent starvation issues,
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this was my first real attempt at mig welding aluminium, Think I did ok, but you can see where the heavier plate is at the front,
it really pulled the heat out of the weld! but at least it doesn't leak! :waycool:
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Lastly, been a bit cool of an evening lately, so been keeping my trusty little heater going :D
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Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:28 am

Slight change of plans due to a fairly major career change.

Four Link is gone for the time being and going back to a sightly modified leaf setup that worked well enough before, and should hopefully be better than before now.

First up, I needed to sort the dodgy shackles, the old ones managed to do this to a set of bushes in less than 10,000km
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Old Vs New
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I've looked at every brand of shakles, they're all the same and will cause the same problem, so I've had a heap of different parts laser Cut and am just waiting on some pins and I'll post up some pics

I spent most of last weekend re-building the spring packs.
Dissembled and wire brushed
Make sure you keep the sides separate, the drivers side generally has a tiny bit more arch)
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Each spring was then directionally polished, and had the ends bevelled and tapered
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Next up, removing the old closed Cinches and making new open ones, cut the rivet, remove cinch, grind down stub of rivet and punch it out
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You'll need a really good quality countersinking bit to do this, the spring steel is HARD
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Then a bit of 1/4" flat bar to make the new cinches and some 3/8 stainless Bundy tube
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All assembled and ready to go with new grade 12 centre pins
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Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:29 am

Also been busy during the week, 2am bed and a few hours before work

Rebuilt Callipers, they're 60 series ones, lets me run a 305x20mm vented disc, up from the 295x16 solid one.
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Rebuilt the Hubs, new discs, Studs and locking hubs
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Also did the swivel housings, added some grease ports, & new studs
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Cleaned up the spring plates, new U-bolts
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Been keeping the mail man busy too! :truck:
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Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 2:30 am

Picked up the goodies from the laser cutter and started on the diff yesterday
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Bottom side of the diff all cleaned up
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Gussets welded in place.
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Then started on the top side and shock mounts, took a while to figure this out, in this pic I'm about to cut it the wrong way :35:
Started with some 50x100x6mm box gives a 38mm inside (right size for hiem joints)
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Finished products
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All welded up
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I'll post again later this weekend with the finished brace etc

raytriplej
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Unread post by raytriplej » October 4th, 2009, 7:32 am

Can I ask why the cab wouldn't have fitted without the body lift? And did the chassis mounts line up with the new body mounts on the front four mounts, (radiator and A piller) just not on the last mount?

Thanks,
Ray

ethann
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Unread post by ethann » October 4th, 2009, 10:46 am

Looks good. I like the sound of the two front wheels off the ground =D!!

I'd love my mav to do that lol.
Maybe an LS7 or something could help me?
Alot more weight then you lux =(

Haha, Wishfull thinking.
Building.

Black Bull
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Unread post by Black Bull » October 4th, 2009, 11:36 am

raytriplej wrote:Can I ask why the cab wouldn't have fitted without the body lift?
The 2 Wheel drive cab has a different floorpan that's flatter, it won't clear the tail shaft cross member without a lift. good thing though, is I've got plenty or room to tuck exhausts etc up inside the rails now.
This pic shows barely an inch of clearance.
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raytriplej wrote:Did the chassis mounts line up with the new body mounts on the front four mounts, (radiator and A piller) just not on the last mount?
Thanks,
Ray
Yep, other than the rear, bolts straight up. in this photo you can see the pitting in the chassis.
That used to be the centre of the tray mount. It'll give you an idea of how far back I moved the mount.
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