Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fixes?

Springs, shocks and all things between your chassis and diffs
unijoint
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Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fixes?

Unread post by unijoint » September 15th, 2016, 7:34 pm

I have an RG colorado with a steel bull bar and a winch fitted. I had ironman fit the pro foamcell adjustable shocks on the front. these struts handle driving at around 80-100 klms on corrogated roads really well but when it came to driving slow on rocky tracks they are extremely harsh. letting my tires down to about 16 still gives a really bad ride. its mainly the down travel when a wheel drops. It is adjusted to the right height. the ironman dealer said there is nothing wrong with the set up. does anyone have these on their 4wd? If so how do you find them? :drool:

Peter Aawen
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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by Peter Aawen » September 18th, 2016, 3:29 pm

So you say it's set at the right height, is that standard ride height or have you lifted it & picked or set the struts to suit the lift??

What do you mean by 'it's mainly the down travel when a wheel drops'?? If you have the vehicle lifted enough that there's no droop (or drop) in the suspension travel, it will give you a really harsh ride, especially if you are travelling slowly on 'stiff' suspension; similarly, if you have no compression in the suspension, it'll give you a really harsh ride.

In many cases, it's not really 'the strut' that causes the issues re this up or down stuff, either; it's more often the physical limitations imposed by how far up or down the suspension arm/s can travel - lift the vehicle too high & even the best of suspension struts won't let the wheel droop because the swinging arm has physical limitations imposed on it!! Same with putting in a strut that's long enough for fantastic travel, but the 'up & down' limits of the swinging arm might mean the strut is jammed hard against one end or the other of it's travel; or the swinging arm itself is jammed hard on one end or the other of IT'S travel!!

Are you sure that you've got the right struts for the vehicle & its ride height, standard or lifted?? Static ride height on vehicles with this sort of suspension MUST be somewhere in the middle third of the range of travel allowed by the swinging arms, or you'll get really harsh & quite dangerous (& also un-roadworthy) ride & handling!! Are you sure your front struts aren't pushing the static ride height out of that middle third?? (Ps, ball joint flips, cutting, or moving bump stops doesn't help much, even if it might give you a tiny amount of extra travel (those things rarely do!) - it's still un-roadworthy if you are outside of the factory specified middle third of the range of travel! :eek:)
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unijoint
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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by unijoint » September 19th, 2016, 8:53 pm

these were fitted by Ironman lifted the front about 40mm, they said its legal at that height and gives the right amount off travel without damaging suspension components. the struts fitted were recommended by ironman to support bull bar and winch so Im assuming that I have the right ones. anyway Ive been intouch with them and they want me to take it back for an inspection which I will do when I can get into brisy. thanks for your input appreciated.

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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by Peter Aawen » September 19th, 2016, 9:46 pm

40 mm lift might technically be a legal lift, but if it moves the suspension arm out of that middle third of the factory range, then it's not really legal & it is un-roadworthy!! And 40mm is getting very close to too much for that type of suspension at the best of times!! As a quick guide, stick your head under the front of the car & have a look for the bump stops or limiting devices on the suspension arms; once you've got the up & down limiters identified, measure the distance between the top & bottom in mm's; then divide that by three - if the arm/s aren't sitting in the middle third or they are very close to the bottom of that middle third, then the lift is too high & that's probably the cause of your harsh ride. :(

That said, Ironman themselves don't usually stuff this sort of thing up too often, but there are some dealers & fitters out there who might either ignore their advice or succumb to buyer pressure for a 'bigger lift' for whatever reason, & the end result is frequently a harsh ride &/or a dangerous vehicle!! Taking it back so they can check it out is a good first move, but maybe you need the heavier struts to hold the extra weight up at that height without sagging &/or as a result you might need to reconsider the lift if you want any better ride (& handling!!)

Good Luck! :thumb:
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

unijoint
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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by unijoint » September 20th, 2016, 3:38 pm

thanks peter I will get under the front and check those measurements as you suggested and see how its sitting. cheers

unijoint
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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by unijoint » October 12th, 2016, 9:23 am

peter just an update on my visit to ironman. I checked the upper and lower gaps as you suggested. top was 20mm and bottom was 50mm. I pointed this out to ironman when they had the car on the hoist and they said its ok because the shocky will stop the wish bone travelling down to far. so Im now thinking I might pull the struts out myself and adjust then so there is equal distance on the top and bottom bump stops. I know this will lower the front of the car but I would rather a safe and more comfy ride cheers.

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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by Peter Aawen » October 12th, 2016, 10:22 am

I take this ^^ to mean you've got 20mm of suspension droop & 50mm of suspension compression with it as it is?!? This means your total range of travel is going to be 70mm (which is pretty good for this sort of suspension, at least without major mods & longer arms etc!!) Buut, 1/3rd of 70mm is 23.33333mm, which means that having only 20mm of droop puts it outside that middle third (just, but still outside!) so if Mr Plod or an Accident/Insurance Investigator runs a tape measure over your vehicle with that suspension setting, your car IS technically UnRoadworthy & therefore maybe even unregistered & uninsured, regardless of what you've paid or not - cos paying those only really count if you keep the vehicle roadworthy!! :eek:

And if it's the shock that's stopping the wishbone from dropping to the full extent of travel it's able/meant to use rather than the bump stop, that will be contributing significantly to that harsh ride you are having issues with, just like it would be if the shock always topped out before hitting the up-travel bump stop!!

You are on the right track re the fix for this, altho you don't necessarily need to go all the way back to having equal travel distances up & down straight away; you really only need to get it back into the (legal) middle 1/3rd of the total OE travel range - so be careful pulling things out to adjust them, but see what losing just 5 or even 10mm of lift does for your ride & handling, I think you might be (pleasantly?) surprised!! And it's not such a great loss of ride height either! :thumb:

Besides, most experienced 4WD'ers know it's not really how 'big' your lift is that counts, it's the skill of the nut behind the wheel that gets you further AND then gets you back out again when it comes to going places in the rough stuff!! Big lifts & a heavy right boot might get you a long way into the brown stuff until you run out of momentum or your vehicle falls over, but big lifts & heavy right boots rarely help much once you get stuck waaay out there!! With a more modest lift, it takes real driving skill to get just as far (& often even further) & then back out again, & that skill only comes with practice. So lose some lift, get out there & use it like it was meant to be used, learn to drive it properly while you do that ;) , & enjoy the ride as you develop those better skills!! ;)
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

unijoint
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Joined: July 3rd, 2008, 11:29 pm
Location: woodford, QLD

Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by unijoint » October 12th, 2016, 7:49 pm

thanks for the advice I will let you know how it goes. cheers

unijoint
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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by unijoint » February 1st, 2017, 12:01 am

although Ironman said the struts were adjusted correctly I had them lower the spring tension 5mm which gave a softer ride with good off road handling. this has lowered the front of the car 10mm. hardly noticeable with a much better ride and less cv angle. been back up to cape yorks lakefield national park. car handled the tracks really well.

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Re: Ironman front struts & bad slow ride on RG Colorado - fi

Unread post by Peter Aawen » February 1st, 2017, 8:32 am

Good to hear! :thumb:
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

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