New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0 (lotsa pics!)

Whether it's brand new and stock, or customised for your needs, show us what you tow!
Heifer Boy
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Location: Jervis Bay, NSW

Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Heifer Boy » April 12th, 2011, 5:57 pm

Gas Struts?

So now I’m finalising the details of my camper box one question has come up that I can’t answer… well not easily anyway. Hopefully someone can help.

I want to put a strut of some type on the main door to hold it open. I don’t need assistance with the weight of the door opening or closing because it’s side hung but I do want it to be held securely at 90 degrees to the box. So I did a big search on the net about gas struts and found a million complicated equations mostly related to lifting horizontally doors and whether or not the assistance required was for opening or closing. To confusing for this brain :confused:

As long as I get the open/close lengths right (easy) then I thought of maybe just getting a car bonnet strut from a wreckers and using that as it should hold the door open easily and not need too much force to close it. Or should I just get an over-centre brace of some type like on the legs of a camp table and forget the gas strut?

What does everyone think?
2004 RA Rodeo TD, 2" OME Lift, Long Range Tank, Snorkel, Cooper ST's, Custom Camper Box

Camper Box Ver 2.0 Build Thread viewtopic.php?f=134&t=106588

Lowndsey
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Location: Townsville

Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Lowndsey » April 12th, 2011, 6:11 pm

Personally I would look at maybe doing both. I would definitely go the strut as it would be quite annoying to lock the latch in everytime you want to quickly open the door to get something out. Alternatively if you just have the strut and you are leaving the door up for an extended time in a windy area such as the beach it could come down on your head. I know I have been whacked in the head with the canopy door a few times from the wind blowing.

stretch4x4
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by stretch4x4 » April 12th, 2011, 6:18 pm

Yeah but his isn't a top opening door so he won't be whacked on the head :)
I agree I saw lots of formulas, I would be concerned that without gravity and the door weight assiting the door might take a lot to close.. Might be alright for the yourself but others might not find it so easy..
About the only thing I can think of with this is mount the hinge point further down the door so you get more leverage..??
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Lowndsey
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Lowndsey » April 12th, 2011, 6:21 pm

stretch4x4 wrote:Yeah but his isn't a top opening door so he won't be whacked on the head :)
OHHH Yeah hahaha in that case scrap that LOL. Next time I will read the whole post properly.

stretch4x4
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by stretch4x4 » April 12th, 2011, 6:23 pm

:D it happens, I had the advantage of reading about the door earlier in the thread ;)
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Heifer Boy
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Location: Jervis Bay, NSW

Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Heifer Boy » April 13th, 2011, 9:04 am

LOL guys!! :D

Looking further at it, one of the other problems I have is the position of a strut. There isn't a lot of space on the RH side between the fridge and the door to get a strut long enough to give any meaningful support without getting in the way of the fridge opening.

Another suggestion was to just put a pin into the open tailgate to hold the door open. This sounds good to me but I need to think on how to best achieve this. Not really too keen on drilling a hole into the tailgate or having a bracket sticking off the top of it. Hmmmm!?!?
2004 RA Rodeo TD, 2" OME Lift, Long Range Tank, Snorkel, Cooper ST's, Custom Camper Box

Camper Box Ver 2.0 Build Thread viewtopic.php?f=134&t=106588

stretch4x4
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by stretch4x4 » April 13th, 2011, 9:40 am

I will have to go back and have a look at your box again Dad ended up making his own strut style thing just with a pin in it.
Something like that might work.
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Heifer Boy
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Heifer Boy » May 20th, 2011, 9:30 pm

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Firstly, apologies for not updating my build thread for so long. I just got sidetracked with family and the Easter/ANZAC day holidays. I don't know why I ended up putting family first but I guess something’s got to give. LOL!!! I have been making some progress over the last month and are now back into it full throttle. Thanks to those who asked if I had dropped off the planet or something.

Stage Sixteen – Completed Metalwork

All the folding and welding has been completed so I bolted up the battery tray with high tensile bolts and fitted the internal aluminium “roof rack” cross members. These were also bolted in place. I had some brackets made up with nuts welded to the undersides which I will fit to the truck tub and use to bolt the camper to the truck later on. These were all primed and the battery tray painted black and the brackets white to match the truck.

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Once the roof rails were in place, the top was test fitted and the Roof Top Tent finally put in place. I could then drill the mounting holes through the top and the rails to make sure everything would line up ok. Then it all got pulled apart...again.

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2004 RA Rodeo TD, 2" OME Lift, Long Range Tank, Snorkel, Cooper ST's, Custom Camper Box

Camper Box Ver 2.0 Build Thread viewtopic.php?f=134&t=106588

Heifer Boy
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Joined: January 6th, 2005, 4:15 pm
Location: Jervis Bay, NSW

Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Heifer Boy » May 20th, 2011, 10:25 pm

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Stage Seventeen – Electrics

I have been spending a lot of time sorting out the electrics which was a total unknown to me as I've never done any before. But with everyone's help here and a bit of reading I bought everything I needed and gave it a go. I bought 1x 6 gang fuse block, 4x LED lights, 4x 12v marine outlets, 7x switches and lots of red and black wiring and I was in business. Also read up on joints and soldering techniques and this site http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281500 was easily the best I found on how to do it properly. Here is my first attempt following his instructions. Everything joint is twisted, soldered, heatshrunk and taped. It took a while and I only made a few mistakes.

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The end result was a real spaghetti of wiring but I spent the time bundling them up in pairs and then stuffed it all into some split tubing. It could have been a bit tidier but I am very happy with it overall. I already had heavy duty cabling and a 50amp Anderson plug from my previous set up so will just use this for connection to the truck. I am using an old Engel fridge cable directly connected to the fuse block but have a spare cable with a cigar plug on the end in case there's a problem or I take the fridge outside and need to use one of the external outlets. The waterpump is also connected through a switch so I can turn it off in case of a problem. I've tested everything and there's no voltage drop anywhere so you can't get much better than that. Yay!!!

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2004 RA Rodeo TD, 2" OME Lift, Long Range Tank, Snorkel, Cooper ST's, Custom Camper Box

Camper Box Ver 2.0 Build Thread viewtopic.php?f=134&t=106588

Heifer Boy
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Joined: January 6th, 2005, 4:15 pm
Location: Jervis Bay, NSW

Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Heifer Boy » May 20th, 2011, 10:39 pm

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Loads of other photos in my Photobucket album. See Post #1 for a link.

I also made up the switch panels out of alloy angle, drilled some holes for the external outlets and painted and bolted down the battery tray with high tensile bolts. The battery was also put in place and strapped down.

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Once the wiring was finished and tidied up a bit I took the opportunity to cut some bootliner carpet for the storage spaces. I'm just going to stick this in place with double sided tape so if I need to change it or build some dividers to adjust the storage later on I can do it easily. I just pulled the carpet at the moment and will re-fit later.

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Stage Eighteen - Plumbing

At the same time as the electrics I was finalising the plumbing for the water system. A 20l jerry can will sit behind the fridge slide so I needed to finalise the jerry holder and rear storage box and sort out the hoses for this. I was going to use a hose quick connect on the filler cap but the proper food grade water hose is too stiff and space a bit tight for this. Instead I will just unscrew the cap and pull out the hose when I need to change the jerry. Now the hoses are the right length I can clamp all the joints properly and connect the water pump to the power.

Sorry no photos yet.
2004 RA Rodeo TD, 2" OME Lift, Long Range Tank, Snorkel, Cooper ST's, Custom Camper Box

Camper Box Ver 2.0 Build Thread viewtopic.php?f=134&t=106588

Heifer Boy
Been here a while
Posts: 176
Joined: January 6th, 2005, 4:15 pm
Location: Jervis Bay, NSW

Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Heifer Boy » May 20th, 2011, 10:50 pm

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Stage Nineteen – Closing Up The Box!!!

With the electrics and plumbing sorted it was finally time to epoxy the top of the camper in place and seal the box up once and for all. Epoxy doesn't stick very well to aluminium so I used some Sikaflex on the 4 internal roof rails. Everything was mixed and spread in the appropriate places and the top was lowered into place for the last time. This was a big step as it's now finally a "box" and it's looking like the final product should. Yay!! :)

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I wanted to get the electrics finished and the battery firmly in place before I committed to epoxying the lid of the camper in place so I didn't have to struggle with the battery fitting. I always intended to have the space to remove the battery if necessary but moving a 30kg battery around at arms length through the side door was never going to be easy. Once the lid was in place I quickly found out it would simply be impossible!!!

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So out came the jigsaw again and I cut an access hole in the top, built and epoxied a frame in the hole and made up a hatch to fit. I'll screw this down with some pan head SS screws and seal up the gap with Sikaflex to keep it waterproof. I should only need to cut out the sealant if there is ever a problem with the battery but at least when I really need to I can get it out without breaking my arms off!!!

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2004 RA Rodeo TD, 2" OME Lift, Long Range Tank, Snorkel, Cooper ST's, Custom Camper Box

Camper Box Ver 2.0 Build Thread viewtopic.php?f=134&t=106588

Boxhead 71
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Boxhead 71 » May 27th, 2011, 5:09 pm

You're sellin' yourself short with the wiring mate. That's neat. I've been following this for a while and am continually impressed by your workmanship. Keep it up.

Heifer Boy
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Joined: January 6th, 2005, 4:15 pm
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Heifer Boy » May 28th, 2011, 1:49 pm

Thanks for the comments Boxhead.

It's great to be getting to the final stages. I've been filling and sanding for the last week and just started the fibreglassing today. It will take a while though as I need to do each side horizontally so 5 main sides with 2 days wait between sides for the epoxy to harden so I can turn the box and there's nearly a couple of weeks gone. The first side looks good though.
2004 RA Rodeo TD, 2" OME Lift, Long Range Tank, Snorkel, Cooper ST's, Custom Camper Box

Camper Box Ver 2.0 Build Thread viewtopic.php?f=134&t=106588

Mud Salami
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by Mud Salami » June 9th, 2011, 1:21 am

mate, all i can say is WHOA!!

it is very inspiring to see things done properly! the workmanship and research you have put in on this project is astounding!!!

keep up the good work, and am very eager to keep following your thread!!

bravoboy300
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Re: New and Improved Camper Box Build - Ver 2.0

Unread post by bravoboy300 » June 14th, 2011, 7:49 pm

first thing that pops to mind...WOW....

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