Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Rattas
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Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by Rattas » February 2nd, 2014, 10:41 am

Hi all,
Im after possible causes/solutions to this

I have been driving my RG C7 with a cub camper behind it (weighs no more then 800kgs).
Driving speeds were no more then legal limits, 100 to 110 kph.
Driving with the cruise control on between Adelaide and Melbourne, and return. Outside temp was 38ish going and on return up to 43C.
On the way over the temp gauge (which normally shows 1/4) got up to 1/2.
Coming back the temp gauge got up to 3/4
This increase shown on the gauge only happened when accelerating and when rolling down the backside of a hill the temp would return slowly but surely to normal.
Yesterday when towing a small 4x3 trailer with next to no weight in it 44C up went the temp to half only on approaches to bridges/overways and then returned to normal.
The vehicle has been back to Holden where they have done a pressure test overnight which showed no leaks :)
Could it be a blockage in the cooling system or intercooler ? or something else.
I have the Holden bullbar with no spotties, so air flow is uninterrupted.
Any solutions would be appreciated as I'm going on trips in the near future and I would like to get this sorted and fixed
Cheers

mydmax
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Re: Rising temp

Unread post by mydmax » February 2nd, 2014, 12:06 pm

Rattas
You don't say, but I presume it is an Auto. If manual you are towing in to high a gear and using the turbo/torque unwisely as it will create vast amounts of heat if in too high a gear for the hill.

For Auto.
Do you have an auto trans cooler fitted to the vehicle. When towing it will be slipping the toque converter with the engine working hard up hills and the extra heat developed in the auto is being fed into the bottom of the already hard working engine cooling system.

If a trans fluid cooler is fitted between in the "hot" line from the auto it will get rid of as much heat as is possible before the fluid gets to the rad bottom and therefore will not overload the engine cooling system anywhere near as much.

Presuming the engine cooling system is working normally, then any additional heat loading from the auto, Especially when towing, will bring it all near to the overheating point.
If the rad is already close to the max, then that heat from the auto worsens the situation and also makes the trans fluid run far to hot for a good long life of the auto transmission.

The fact in similar ambient temps with a lighter load the engine is able to run a bit cooler fairly convincingly shows the auto heat is making it worse and the trans fluid must be B!@@dy Hot.

There is not much point in testing the cooling system, ie pressure test, if it hasn't "popped it's cork" yet, it must be performing ok but at the near maximum. Doesn't show much intelligence or understanding by the dealer to be doing testing on the system to show a fault which cannot possibly be present seeing it is running under stress but obviously working near the limit. "Incompetence inworkshop".

I would say the engine cooling system is working as designed but on the borderline with little or no reserve. The auto cooler will return some of that reserve for the engine cooling system by not hammering it so much with additional heat input.
Intercooler has nothing to do with that situation.

Never/don't trust what a dealer tells you, they only sell vehicles and may not know how they work. Always get other unbiased opinions or the dealer wins every time.

Cheers
mydmax
Last edited by mydmax on February 2nd, 2014, 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Rattas
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Re: Rising temp

Unread post by Rattas » February 2nd, 2014, 12:19 pm

Thanks very much for that greatly appreciated.
As for the fitting of a auto trans cooler, I don't know but will find out, but it is stock.
As for the dealer, I understand exactly what your saying, but I have to say that apparently my C7 has a very similar prob that a colly ute had and when that was pressure tested it turned out that it had a hair line crack in the block.
I will be contacting the dealer tomorrow to seeing what they say.

mydmax
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by mydmax » February 2nd, 2014, 12:44 pm

If your overheating is a result of lost coolant, then YES a pressure test is appropriate, If there is no loss of coolant then it can't be a crack/loss or not enough coolant fault. A crack in the block will expel/steam off coolant and then temps go up because there isn't enough left to cool properly. No coolant loss! then there probably isn't a system problem.
From what you mentioned, it does seem to be to be a load/ heat dissipation problem and the auto is involved in that to a high degree.
Many dealers will tell you their vehicles are engineered for all situations in Australia, I like that, sounds impressive, but is of little comfort or help if the vehicle gets too hot.
Many people on a range of vehicles have cured their overheat/getting to hot , problems, by fitting a trans cooler. Then their auto trans lives on instead of failing. Cheaper that way too.

It will be interesting to hear from you what the dealer is prepared to tell you regarding the issue.
Keep us informed, it helps all to know what is being said.

Peter Aawen
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by Peter Aawen » February 2nd, 2014, 12:53 pm

Like mydmax says, looking at how the auto trans cooler is fitted may well make a difference, as should swapping the 'stock' (and probably quite small & almost useless) auto trans cooler for something a bit bigger - as big as you can is good! And it might pay you to check the viscous fan hub for proper operation too (you might need a remote sensing thermometer to do that) so that you know it cuts in before coolant temps get too much past something around 80 ish Deg C!! Ideally the fan hub should cut in no more than about 5 deg C over the opening temp of your thermostat, so it can take a bit of research to do it right.

Buuuttt, all that said, it's bloody hot out there atm, especially around SA, Adelaide, & the road to Melbourne!! And no matter what the Bureau of Meteorology says, telling us what the temperature is in shaded still air really isn't very helpful when you are working &/or driving on the road in the direct sunlight - I wouldn't mind betting that the air temp where your radiator is situated up above the black & heat reflective road today is well above 60 Deg C, cos even my 'desert prepared' Patrol that never has o/heating issues had the temperature gauge pushing the 3/4 mark today, which means the coolant temps were getting close to 100 Deg C!! Towing a loaded stock crate up the freeway was a bit of a fine juggling act, I had to keep the revs up to make sure the EGT's didn't climb too much, but couldn't push for too much speed (& increased air flow) cos the air coming in the front of the radiator was already pretty well over-heated already, and the coolant system was finding it hard to shed ANY heat into the already hot air!! The slightest bit of tail wind meant the temp went up another notch or two on the dial, while head winds didn't help any unless I could coast into them, rather than hafta forge ahead & drive into it!! Glad I made it off the Freeway & home, I passed lots of people who didn't!! :(

So you just might need to consider that on days where the BoM admits the shaded & still air temp is over 40 deg C, the REAL temperature on the road/tracks out in the direct sunlight could well be 20 or more degrees over that, and asking anything to run well and cool in those circumstances is asking a helluva lot, so you hafta do whatever you can to avoid adding to the heat load on the engine! If your cooling system is in top nick, you probably won't hafta resort to turning the A/C OFF, and maybe even turning the heater ON (to increase the surface area of heat exchangers available to your cooling system & therefore letting the engine shed more heat - onto you in the cabin :irked:) but you might need to slow down a little, keep the revs up without going too high in the rev range, and basically try to maximise air flow thru the front of the car as much as you can without loading it up too much more than you need to! OR you could stay off the road in the hottest hours, your car may well survive instead of leaving you stranded somewhere with a cooked motor!

Good Luck
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

amtravic1
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by amtravic1 » February 2nd, 2014, 4:09 pm

The temp gauge may be just a bit more accurate than you are used to. With my Dmax the temp gauge does not move off normal until the temp measured by the scan gauge reaches about 95 degrees, then it slowly creeps up to around 3/4 on the guage. I adjust my driving to try and keep the temp on the scan gauge to low 90s at a maximum however it has been really hot lately and the air is very dry so I expect the motor to run a little hotter. Most people would just look at the cars temp gauge stuck on normal and not be aware of the changing temps with the motor the gauge does not record.

Rattas
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by Rattas » February 2nd, 2014, 4:27 pm

Thanks Peter.
Thats food for thought.....for all of us in these temps.
But as I was reading I forgot to write initially (my bad) that yesterday it started to rise going out on the road towing that little trailer when the in house temp showing 25C (it was 6am).
The Temp gauge started out at 1/4 but went up to just under 1/2.
Sorry about not adding that and yes it is an auto.

Rattas
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by Rattas » February 2nd, 2014, 4:43 pm

amtravic1

My previous vehicle, a Jackaroo petrol and auto, used to sit on 1/2 all the time, never budged.
I admit thats the sort of thing Im used too.

Peter Aawen
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by Peter Aawen » February 2nd, 2014, 6:26 pm

Personally, I'd be a helluva lot more worried about a temp gauge that never budges than I would about a temp gauge that actually shows what your engine is doing as the ambient temps increase/decrease and the load on the engine varies!! Many manufacturers damp their temp gauges so they do just sit in the middle, but that's NOT what your cooling system does - the thermostat opens and closes, the viscous hub engages & disengages the fan, and your coolant temperature will vary within the normal range a fair bit! The gauges that sit on one temp and never move WON'T move until the temp has gone up to the 'Oops, too late!!' stage and your engine has overheated, while a gauge that shows the fluctuations as they occur let you know when it's getting hot and you need to lessen the load or do something else BEFORE the engine over heats!! ;)

Give me a temp gauge that reasonably accurately shows the variations in coolant temps that DO occur as the load on the engine & ambient temps varies any day! ;) And be aware that most temp gauges have a LOW mark, a 'top of the normal' mark, and a HOT mark; and the temperature is fine just so long as it's in that normal range, ie below the top of the normal mark - it can be pushing that mark but the temperature is still OK (altho you probably should start thinking about cooling it down a bit if you are working it hard!) until it goes over that mark and pushes the HOT mark - and if it's hot outside, your engine coolant temps will almost certainly be higher than if it's freezing outside, so if your temp gauge hasn't reflected that, THEN you should start to worry, cos it obviously isn't working properly & might not warn you soon enough!! ;)
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

seqfisho
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by seqfisho » February 28th, 2014, 7:09 pm

Best thing I ever did was put a Scangauge in and religiously monitor water and auto tranny temps, I also fitted a large tranny cooler to assist the pathetic factory unit (for hot Australian outback conditions anyway). If I get towards the full thermostat opening temp ( opening at 85C and full open at 95C for 4JJ1) I adjust my driving accordingly and if it means sitting at 80 in a 100 zone then so be it, i also hate to see my tranny temps get much over the 100C mark even when towing and if they climb towards 120C I adjust to help bring it down. Worst I have ever had when towing was coming up the Toowoomba range with the boat on the back, water to 101C and tranny to 118C, back to about 30-40km/h towards the last pinch's as the stupid Main Roads now wont let you have any momentum at the bottom by dropping the speed to 60 on approach and then sitting half way up with radar guns.
The only other time I have seen consistent high temps was coming back from Cairns to Mount Isa after Xmas, the legs from about Croydon to Normanton and then Normanton down to home we run in the mid 90's engine temp and tranny around the same or slightly less (pretty flat country) but it was around the 43-47C outside temps so Ok considering running A/C and loaded. It is quite amazing how the conditions can fluctuate the temps without any movement on the dash gauge, my dash gauge doesnt move off it's normal position till the actuall engine temp climbs to 100C, so if you dash gauge is going above normal I'd be checking things quick before you end up parked on the side of the road waiting for a tow, which up here is a long and uncomfortable wait.

I was told that the 4JJ1 runs warm anyway so I'm glad I monitor it and my auto guy wishes that everyone he see's would button off once their temp gets over the 100C mark, but he said if they all did that he'd also be out of business......lol

Cheers Glen

crakrz7
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by crakrz7 » March 1st, 2014, 9:44 am

I imagine that as the ECT's (coolant temp) were getting higher, the power was diminishing as the ECU would have been pulling out fuel like a demon to try to regulate the temps.
2012 RG Colorado, 5spd Manual, 2" Lift, Genie 3" s/s exhaust, K&N filter, CAT delete, EGR delete, HPD Intercooler, HPD catch can, Crispmods ECU remap, Auber EGT & Boost guages, Road Ranger shifter.

boehamian
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Re: Any solutions to the Rising temps in my Colorado?!

Unread post by boehamian » January 14th, 2018, 10:04 pm

I too have noticed overheating.
I went on a trip down to Parkes, NSW towing the camper. Being in the NT and having to get a fair distance I decided to try and sit on 130. After a little while I noticed the temp guage went to just over 3/4. So I backed off to 110 where it sat just over 1/2. The minute I tried to go over 110 it went straight back up. I thought nothing of it as it was a 42 degree days we were towing in. When we left parkes and we were going to morgan, SA i noticed that even on 110 the temps were sitting on 3/4 most of the way over there. Thought nothing of it as the temps outside were still in the 40s.
This is where it got interesting. Before I left Morgan I checked the oil. There was only 1/4 showing on the dipstick (that dreaded oil problems in the colorado, yet a different issue). Topped it up when I left so it was all the way up. Left to go back to Alice Springs and was sitting on 110 all the way home. However, after the temperatures got over 25 degrees the temps went all the way back up to 3/4. When I got back home I checked the dipstick and I did have to put a little bit back in it (was roughly 2/3 way up the dipstick)

Has anyone else with a colorado RG manual had this or can tell me what the temps are normally with these Colorado's and what they find with oil consumption as well

Some specs and info.

It is a manual,
265 75 16 tyres
has been remapped
was towing in 5th gear (6th gear too higher as it struggles to pull)
towing roughly a 1500kg black series dominator trailer and had 2 pelican cases with bags and tools in the back of ute (roughly 2 - 300kg).
Around town it doesn't seem to move much over 1/4 mark on the gauge, however haven't had a scorching day in Alice Since either so haven't been able to test otherwise. Never had a problem before.
Never have had to tow that trailer before either.

Have also been considering getting the final drive ratio out of the new face lifted model and putting it in mine as I do have 2 inch taller tyres which have dropped the RPM considerably and have had trouble with the car stalling way too easy when taking off and when backing trailers, not to mention trying to crawl up hills (have to use throttle all the time when going over hill as it won't walk itself). (looked into new model they changed final drive from 3.73 to 4.1), took new one for test drive and was 100% better. gear box ratios the same.

Am going to put the OBDII chip in my car and do some recording on the data from the computer of the temps when towing and not towing too see the difference and show the dealer and the guy who tuned my car. However was just after some other colorado owner inputs and if it would be worth upgrading the radiator or intercooler

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