Hypothetical Scenario.

Got some advice to share or a question to ask? Heres the place to do it!
Peter Aawen
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Unread post by Peter Aawen » April 30th, 2008, 10:28 am

Hey, just realised that you've got 3 trees down the bottom of the hill, and didn't you say that you had a snatch strap? Snatch straps are stretchy! EASY SOLUTION! Use the Snatch strap to stretch between 2 of those 3 trees, park 1 of the Suzi's with its back end to the middle of the strap, front aimed up the track. Get the other car to pull both car and snatch strap back as far as it can, before releasing the Suzi (and snatch strap) so that the snatch strap acts like a dirty great 'rubber band' catapult and launches the Suzi up the hill! Then you just get the Suzi up top to pull the second car up the hill from the top and you are both home free! Just hope that you can withstand the enourmous 'G' forces from the catapult launch!

Cheers!
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Unread post by beej » April 30th, 2008, 10:50 am

Cut down a sapling, use the wire rope to tie the zooks together, wind up the windows, then raft down the stream to safety.
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Unread post by steveandviv » April 30th, 2008, 1:56 pm

Peter @ Aawen4x4 wrote:Hey, just realised that you've got 3 trees down the bottom of the hill, and didn't you say that you had a snatch strap? Snatch straps are stretchy! EASY SOLUTION! Use the Snatch strap to stretch between 2 of those 3 trees, park 1 of the Suzi's with its back end to the middle of the strap, front aimed up the track. Get the other car to pull both car and snatch strap back as far as it can, before releasing the Suzi (and snatch strap) so that the snatch strap acts like a dirty great 'rubber band' catapult and launches the Suzi up the hill! Then you just get the Suzi up top to pull the second car up the hill from the top and you are both home free! Just hope that you can withstand the enourmous 'G' forces from the catapult launch!

Cheers!

The old sling shot recovery method aye Max, very cunning plan

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Unread post by cooter » May 3rd, 2008, 11:39 pm

mcgiver method remove front and rear diff centers and lock up the sun gears with 3/8bolts removed from various spots around the car replace centers at drive the hill locked (this works we locked the diff in a dato 120y using 2 3/8 bolts and some hardened flat washers it was rather noisy though)
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Unread post by ice_spy » May 4th, 2008, 10:53 am

Harb wrote:Their Zooks.....carry em up.

Harbs on the money, pull out your zook 3 peice factory tool set, strip the car down to small peices and carry it up the hill, rebuild at top of mountain and drive home.

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Unread post by MUD-PIG » May 20th, 2008, 12:44 pm

For starters the Sierra is lighter, so for any testing (trying a way out) use it first the Vitara will be better at pulling the Sierra out as its heavier and got a bigger engine. This theory actually works as Ive been in these situations with my wheeling mate who has a Vitara, me being the Sierra owner, except we both have mud tires and I have lockers front back and copious amounts of recovery gear. I always ended up bogged first and getting recovered till we could find a way out or around with a new track, but the Vitara was better at recovery than my Sierra was so it worked out well.

So take the Sierra empty it of all its gear let your tires down to about 15psi, plan your designated path and go for gold, the Sierra is light and capable the momentum will help in the clay and keep you going skipping over like a mud skipper. You'll be amazed where they can go. But any how get it as far up the trail as you can get and them break out the recovery gear and winch it the rest if it gets stuck. Then carry all your gear to a safe area ready to be put back in same goes for the Vitara. The vitara would then do the same but take a new path not T going in Sierras tracks but just next to it. This way its keeping its momentum on a un broken surface. Once it gets stuck pull it out with the Sierra or winch it to a safer spot then recover it.

All this fails go for Robski's first idea and make sure your mate hasnt read this thread or he will be thinking the same thing....

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Unread post by patrol2pathy » May 20th, 2008, 2:16 pm

D-bolts? You mean D-shackles? Toss those, they wont do you any bloody good. You should have packed yourself some rated bow shackles.

I watch one of the Maylaian 4wd comps once. One fella got up a wet clay hill by giving it hell till it wouldn't climb any further. Then he would ride the brake down, draging a heap of clay off the track . Then go again and again. He got there.
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Unread post by crawla » May 21st, 2008, 12:12 am

Harb wrote:Their Zooks.....carry em up.
BWAHAHAHAHA:D
Magnat wrote:Well.. The way I would have Approached it is

1. There are sapplings around and dead wood.. Laying these at intervals across the clay would provide additional grip on the clay. This would aid your ascent up the clay..

2. Selecting 2nd Low, should be enough to provide Torque and momentum to grip the wood that you have just laid.. Being a 50 metre ascent it could be done in around 2 hours if the both of you co operated..

The reason why I listed this as a Hypothetical was to see how people would have dealt
with it...

I have already decided not to go 4x4ing with ROBSKI... incase he gets stuck lol...
Spot on Magnat, each to their own but this is exactly how I would have approached the problem........to a tea (with of course low tyre pressures). We were in a very similar situation in Deua NP, the only way up was the loose vegetation just off the track........it was a huge hill ( 3 stages), the loose vegetation didn't look much but it was enough to get us out. Overnight the ranges got monsoonal rains, all night! The next day was an adventure to say the least but this hill was bloody hard.

A rangie had to be pulled up as he had near on slicks and was lucky to even get out........a few vehicles don't in bad weather in Deua from the fourbies seen at the bottom of some of the hills resting up against trees.

Anyway both are light and both are zippy, both will launch in second low and will hold revs till they spin to a stand. Throw a bit of loose vegetation on the tracks and I reckon you'd make it with those little beasts!!

I'd give my right nut to hit some great mountain country tracks again!!!!!!!

Won't be over here forever!!!!!!!!!!:D
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Unread post by Jeeps » May 25th, 2008, 11:47 pm

Seeing as it's 2hrs drive from the nearest fuel or 5hrs walk to the nearest farm house i would start praying for a pair of maxtrax to fall from heaven. :)
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Unread post by MOTOR_HEAD » May 31st, 2008, 4:46 pm

Magnat wrote:Well.. The way I would have Approached it is

1. There are sapplings around and dead wood.. Laying these at intervals across the clay would provide additional grip on the clay. This would aid your ascent up the clay..

2. Selecting 2nd Low, should be enough to provide Torque and momentum to grip the wood that you have just laid.. Being a 50 metre ascent it could be done in around 2 hours if the both of you co operated..

The reason why I listed this as a Hypothetical was to see how people would have dealt
with it...

I have already decided not to go 4x4ing with ROBSKI... incase he gets stuck lol...
Damn......i was gunna say i would lay the saplings out

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Unread post by BJ73 LX Lover » June 18th, 2008, 10:31 am

Ok so with the sappling idea, do you lay them inline with the track or perpendicular to the track? Can you also break off 3"-4" sections of sappling to drive into the clay like a peg to stop sapplings being pushed down hill or will this cause punctures??
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Unread post by rredbeak » June 18th, 2008, 11:17 am

personally id never venture down the hill knowing that the weather was starting to look bad,also,not knowing if theres another exit elsewhere. Its just too much of a gamble...so we'd just cruise off to hungry jacks...cheers Rod

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Unread post by lumberjack6769 » June 20th, 2008, 12:08 pm

Ok the thing here is it was only a rain storm i`m taking it has now stopped raining, its clay so it didn`t soke up much water, give it an hour and you`ll probably drive straight out. If it didn`t dry up quick enough try and get as far as you can without ending up in more trouble making sure to spin the wheels fast enough to flick the top surface off and clear your tread pattern, sometimes its all about perserverence, take it from me i do this stuff for a living but you will also be suprised how much a hot radiator and exhaust blowing down on the ground will dry certain surfaces out.
If you need to get physical dig a hole in the ground and bury your spare and use those snatch staps and your winch(don`t join the 2 straps together with the shackles loop one threw the other and put a rolled up mag or newspaper in the loop so they don`t pull tight on each other).
But over all practice your recovery somewhere thats easy before hitting the trails, you may look an idiot to other people but when the chips are down you will no what the best method is to get to where your going.

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Unread post by Peter Aawen » June 20th, 2008, 1:01 pm

BJ73 LX Lover wrote:Ok so with the sappling idea, do you lay them inline with the track or perpendicular to the track? Can you also break off 3"-4" sections of sappling to drive into the clay like a peg to stop sapplings being pushed down hill or will this cause punctures??

Not the best idea to use saplings or shrubbery from the surrounding vegetation! The people with a green tinge will get very upset!

If you DO use saplings or brush, only 'cos there was a large heap of it cut and stacked at the bottom of the hill alongside the track, none of it was stuff you pulled out or cut down, and it was stacked up rather than spread around on the ground as habitat ;); then you should lay it across the slope, ie at 90 degrees to the intended direction of travel, which should be directly UP the slope! Putting pegs in isn't a great idea either, it WILL result in tyre damage, if not punctures, especially if you spin your tyres!

Dunno if I mentioned it before, but I ALWAYS carry traction Chains - Snow or Mud chains to most, but they would be very handy in this hypothetical. Fit a set of chains to the rear wheels and you'd probly walk up the hill - AVOID WHEELSPIN, it's a sign of failure and poor technique! If you spin your wheels you've ALREADY LOST TRACTION, which is the exact opposite of what you are trying to do! Chains will get you places without wheelspin that you would otherwise find impossible!

Not quite as good as wheel chains, I also carry a couple of rolls of shade cloth - standard dark green shade cloth, about 1 metre wide and 6 metres long. Laying that out as wheel tracks over the slipperiest or steepest part of the track, or at least from just below the highest section you can get to without aid, and throwing a shovel full of earth or two onto each strip to hold it in place, walking it in so that it's pretty well stuck to the surface - makes for a great traction aid too. Almost as good as chains, and if you can get your front wheels onto it, they'll drag you up the hill a long way - at least the 6 metres, but usually more. That's cos you gain momentum thru going the extra distance WITHOUT WHEELSPIN! But do remember to take them with you when you go! They WILL be muddy, so a Spare Wheel Rubbish bag is a good place to store them! Hang them on the line at home and hose off all the big bits of mud. Then wash them in the machine with a mild detergent (at the laundromat if the missus objects) and hang them on the line to dry properly!

And finally (well, this time anyhow!) I also carry a Fire Rake. You know, one of those heavy hoe's, wide blade on one side, open rake on the other. If it's clay that's damp on the surface and underneath there is dry stuff, and it's only the damp bit that's too slippery to drive on, then creating a set of wheel tracks to drive on with this rake is a great way to keep going in circumstances where you would normally stop pretty quickly! I saw it first in the forests of Malaysia, where the 4wheelers there use wide bladed hoes to move a helluva lot of monsoonal mud to create their wheel tracks, and they sometimes even have a couple of fellas in front of the truck just shifting the top layer, working like buggry to make the wheel tracks AS THE VEHICLE DRIVES ALONG THE TRACKS TOWARDS THEM!! Quite an impressive sight, I can tell you; almost as impressive as how these rakes work! Our Aussie Fire Rakes are made for this, and you can even add the rake tines to the task to give you a better grip on the dry surface underneath. Great traction aid! Just be a little carefull about where you use this technique, it isn't considered the most envirnmentally senstive 'cos it opens the tracks you create to erosion.

All up out of these options, the saplings and the Fire Rake need a little judgement about where & when, they are not the best for the long term condition of the track & it's surrounds; the Shade cloth is absolutely benign - no damage or long term issues at all but it isn't always as successful as the others; the Chains are by far and away the BEST option! And if you fit them properly and you AVOID WHEELSPIN, then there will be hardly any sign of you having used them! They CAN leave no visible marks on surfaces that would have tyre tracks gouged deep into them! So consider carrying Chains as a traction aid, learning how to use them properly, and developing your skills to the level that you CAN do most of your driving WITHOUT WHEELSPIN! It's the evidence of a truely skillful 4Wheeler! Wheel spin is a sign of poorly developed driving skills and failure before you even start!

Enjoy!
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Unread post by Troopyman » June 21st, 2008, 12:01 pm

What happens if half way up you start sliding backwards uncontrollably . You might end up over the side . It might take a week to dry out . You obviously didnt check the weather . So you are up sh!ts creek in a barbed wire canoe .

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