Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

sundra
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by sundra » January 23rd, 2014, 1:11 am

This is real point for me, ive heard you just disconnect the battery for 30 mins but i tried that and it didn't work, i also heard that you need to remove a fuse as well but i tried that and still no luck, i ended up buying this, http://www.chipit.com.au/products-page/ ... duplicate/ its identical to the scangauge but cheaper, i got it for $150 if you pay cash and pic it up, it reads fault codes and lets you erase them, it also gives you live telemetries on some of your engine sensors.

BullaMakanka
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by BullaMakanka » February 3rd, 2014, 10:08 am

Hi

Anyone tried the EGR blanking plates with the whole in the centre? Just curious to see if anyone has done the mod and if anything has improved.

Cheers

BullaMakanka

mydmax
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by mydmax » February 3rd, 2014, 1:02 pm

A whole is a complete thing, with no hole, but a hole in a whole is a restrictor plate.

BullaMakanka
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by BullaMakanka » February 3rd, 2014, 3:38 pm

lol - point taken but the original question still stands.

runsonrum
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by runsonrum » February 18th, 2014, 6:29 am

I can also vouch for the difference that cleaning the maf/map sensors. I have an auto bt50 and just did it this service. There was an annoying delay in throttle response when putting the foot down which is now gone. The delay in take up of the torque converter that many complain about is also gone, and alot of the clunky gear changes are also now quite smooth. It seems almost like the tcm was getting incorrect data probably caused by the dirty sensors and having trouble deciding what to do. The vehicle is overall more responsive. Very happy with the results, this is now part of my regular servicing. Recommend it

runsonrum
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by runsonrum » February 18th, 2014, 6:31 am

Should also add i disconnected the battery for about an hr not sure if that did anything or not

rpmpest
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by rpmpest » February 25th, 2014, 5:10 pm

Yes BullaMakanka, Ive got an EGR blanking plate with a hole in the centre. Noticeable increase in power, but better economy but nothing too huge. I plan to completely block it off when I can get the ECU tuned to suit.
08 Ranger Hi Rider - Exedy SMF, Xforce 3" with cat, Crispmods tuned, EGR blocked, Pioneer AV, XLT leather, Aeroflow Catch Can............and a Falcon GT in the shed next to it

BullaMakanka
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by BullaMakanka » March 1st, 2014, 8:24 pm

Cheers RPM, thanks for the feedback. Considering doing the same but was just waiting to see how it behaved. have you got a catch can fitted as well?

rpmpest
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by rpmpest » March 1st, 2014, 11:43 pm

Yes, i made my own setup.
08 Ranger Hi Rider - Exedy SMF, Xforce 3" with cat, Crispmods tuned, EGR blocked, Pioneer AV, XLT leather, Aeroflow Catch Can............and a Falcon GT in the shed next to it

Nudarider
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by Nudarider » March 17th, 2014, 11:54 am

I did the complete EGR blank of but after a month the engine light has come on. With out a decent increase in power or fuel economy I am going to just take it out. Was worth a try but no real gains on my ranger

fred99999au
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by fred99999au » March 17th, 2014, 6:04 pm

It aint all about the power. It can encompass the bit about when the EGR cooler lets go and turns the inlet manifold into a water passage and kills the motor.

sundra
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by sundra » March 30th, 2014, 8:58 pm

The EGR is really bad for your car, you only have to pull out your MAP sensor after a few thousand kms to see the crap it deposits into your manifold, exhaust gas isn't supposed to go back into your engine!, its just another emission control thats not needed. If you want to remove it properly get it switched off in your ECU by someone who can remap it or has the controller to access the standard ECU, then you can remove it and the cooler with out the light coming on.

BT Bandit
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by BT Bandit » April 30th, 2014, 8:08 pm

Hi all, I'm new to the forum, I have a 2007 BT50 (is that the PJ?) not sure myself, I don't know a lot about them to be honest. Mine is an Auto - I have noticed that the auto changes rough at times and is sluggish at times and others its quite responsive (really got me scratching my head to be honest) I have had a read through the posts regarding the sensors and I will definitely be pulling them out and giving them a clean.

This EGR thing sounds like death to Diesels so I will have to have a bit more of a read about that and do something to hopefully prevent any issues down the road.

What engine oil are people using in their BT's? Mines running Castrol Professional I think its called (synthetic I believe) is it ok to use or do you recommend something else?

I'm a complete newby to diesels so any suggestions re making em run better and more reliable is greatly appreciated.

Ranger Stretch
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by Ranger Stretch » May 1st, 2014, 7:45 am

Hi Bandit.

Welcome aboard mate.

The auto transmission is a bit primative but works a treat offroadand its a solid reliable unit. It's usually a bit contankerous when cold. You can get harsh changes and sometimes flairing but is usually pretty good once warmed up. It is also a little sensitive to throttle inputs ie if you lift you foot off the peddle when it is about to change. Also sometimes it won't want to change up a gear until the revs are right. Had mine for 3 years from new and its always been the same.

EGR is death to diesels and the best fix so far is an ECU reprogram/remap. If you will be doing any performance mods, exhaust, intake, intercooler, get them all done fisrt for the best remap result. Most of the guys on the forum have used Crispmods remap.

As far as oils etc go, can't help ya there, still under warranty so its been all stealer serviceing so far.

Cheers mate and enjoy the truck.
Mods in order of completion.
Custom Rear Carry Bar, Duel Battery System, Double Din GPS Headunit, Bullbar, 100w HID Driving Lights, 265/70/16AT's and Sunnies, Hitch Receiver in Bullbar for Winch, 13000lb Winch, Anderson Plugs Front and Rear for Winch. My tray build thread viewtopic.php?f=118&t=151073

BT Bandit
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Re: Ranger/BT50 workshop "tips and techniques"

Unread post by BT Bandit » May 2nd, 2014, 9:06 am

Ranger Stretch wrote:Hi Bandit.

Welcome aboard mate.

The auto transmission is a bit primative but works a treat offroadand its a solid reliable unit. It's usually a bit contankerous when cold. You can get harsh changes and sometimes flairing but is usually pretty good once warmed up. It is also a little sensitive to throttle inputs ie if you lift you foot off the peddle when it is about to change. Also sometimes it won't want to change up a gear until the revs are right. Had mine for 3 years from new and its always been the same.

EGR is death to diesels and the best fix so far is an ECU reprogram/remap. If you will be doing any performance mods, exhaust, intake, intercooler, get them all done fisrt for the best remap result. Most of the guys on the forum have used Crispmods remap.

As far as oils etc go, can't help ya there, still under warranty so its been all stealer serviceing so far.

Cheers mate and enjoy the truck.
Thanks for that info mate - yeah she's a clunky ol gear box but so long as its reliable I'll put up with it. Sounds like cleaning the MAP sensor may smooth it out a little. Mine feels like the torque converter is slipping at times and it binds up and away you go, do you find that with yours too? The other thing I notice is sometimes when I put the foot down it will kick back then kick back to a lower gear for a second (really harsh change) :crazy: not sure what that's about then other times it doesn't really want to change down at all - other than the gearbox the vehicle is fine to drive (no powerhouse but just plods along even with a good load of timber on it just pulls along nicely.

And thankyou for the warm welcome - much appreciated as is the info you provided.

I bought some Valvoline mass air flow and throttle body cleaner today so will give the MAP AND MAF a clean too, hopefully that will make a bit of a difference to the driveability.

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