Trouble codes - any ideas how to fix these?

desertfrog
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Re: Trouble codes - any ideas how to fix these?

Unread post by desertfrog » September 9th, 2015, 10:37 am

The baro code - p2227 is the map sensor signal is not similar to baro sensor. A difference of 1.6 psi will bring it up. This is not a sensor fault code. It is telling you a condition.
The other code is a fault. If the boost sensor is reading less than .24v with the engine off a fault occurs.
To give you a reference, my car has .55volts
Put a multi meter into the LH terminal (use a paper clip) and the other side of the meter to batt earth and measure the DC volts. Leave the sensor plugged in. Key on, engine off. The Wire colour is red with a yellow trace.
I "think" you may have a MAP/boost sensor fault.
If you're not sure, ask a question.

Shann Low
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Joined: April 2nd, 2014, 3:14 am

Re: Trouble codes - any ideas how to fix these?

Unread post by Shann Low » September 9th, 2015, 11:52 am

Today's update. Fitted a new MAP sensor,
I "think" you may have a MAP/boost sensor fault.
I "think" you didn't read properly! :lol:

I also "think" that at least you contributed something worth while with the technical advice which i 'think' is a step forward!. ;)

I 'think' if there were a like button on this forum I'd have clicked on it...for your effort.

So to the Bob & Dolly Dyer BP Pick-a-box $64,000 question.

If the Map sensor was faulty and been replaced.... and its still going into limp mode with a check engine light fault code....

& If the ECU isn't under the passenger seat like it is in the 2014 Ford Rangers...

Then where the heck is the Baro Pressure sensor located?

I "think" its possible the both codes are referring to the Baro sensor!

P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Low Input
P2227 Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance

Both are referring to problems with a sensor that measures baro pressure...

I "think" its likely since we know its not the map sensor since a new ones been fitted, that the ECU is probably programmed with a fueling program that relies on knowing the Baro pressure for calculating fuel requirements for a certain charge of air and these vehicles can operate at quite different baro pressured depending on weather and altitude.

When you think about it logically "I THINK" a MAP sensor can only give data to the ECU about the vacuum inside the manifold.. to "calculate the air charge" (i.e O2 available for combustion and hence correct fuel requirement it would have to have a reference to the ambient baro pressure the vehicle is operating in.

If one were to look thru all those pages of fault codes, "i think" there's probably separate codes for Map sensor errors/faults.

"I think" these 2 baro sensor codes are referring to some sensor that relays info about ambient outside baro pressure as part of the ECU's ability to calculate required fuel in all weather and altitude situations in conjunction with the Map sensor.

But,

I am happy to be corrected, if anyone one knows different.

By all means test the new Map sensor to see if it's within range... a new map sensor possibly won't fix an earth fault if the voltage is low... as the codes suggest.

Had something similar once... suspected a faulty common earth return in the HEUI injectors wiring harness (coz 4 cylinders in one bank of the 8 cylinders ceased working. 3 separate techs checked and re checked that common earth return wire...coz it would have explained the symptom!

Ended up eventually it was a IDM (Injector Drive Module) located between the inner and outer skin of the left hand front wing that got wet with muddy water in a creek crossing and shorted out!. :rolleyes:

Sometimes the obvious things later prove not to be the issue.

We had all the fault codes.... they sometimes just point you in the right direction, rather than accurately diagnosing the issue; they are good clues, but not always definitive diagnoses.

OMMV

Shann Low
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Joined: April 2nd, 2014, 3:14 am

Re: Trouble codes - any ideas how to fix these?

Unread post by Shann Low » September 9th, 2015, 12:19 pm

This is what I am hinting at for why "I think" its not the Map sensor.
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range/Performance
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Intermittent/Erratic
P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Circuit
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Range/Performance
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor High Input
P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Intermittent
P010A Mass or Volume Air Flow B Circuit
P010B Mass or Volume Air Flow B Circuit Range/Performance
P010C Mass or Volume Air Flow B Circuit Low Input
P010D Mass or Volume Air Flow B Circuit High Input
P010E Mass or Volume Air Flow B Circuit Intermittent/Erratic
P010F Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A/B Correlation
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Intermittent/Erratic
These first set of codes relate to just 3 things.

1 Air Flow rate
2 Manifold Baro pressure
3 Intake Air Temp

I am guessing i.e. "I think" that for the ECU to calculate fuel requirements in all conditions it needs to know basic info about the available oxygen content in each air charge.

That's how it knows whether to increase or decrease the amount of fuel and the timing of when its injected to compensate for alterations in atmospheric conditions as a result of weather & or altitude changes. Ever watch that Topgear episode where the 3 pillocks took old vehicles thru the Andes mountains at elevations where it was tough to get enough O2 into the engine to ignite the fuel... (and thus tough for the 3 Pillicks to breath?)

The old cars they had (an old Ford XB coupe from memory among them) had set carburetors - adjusted for sea level... and ran crap at elevation... due to no adjustment for altitude and thinner air.

Well new computer controlled engines CAN adjust for such conditions IF the ecu is provided with the data it needs to calculate the right adjustments.

To do that, it needs data about the air flow, pressure, and temperature in the manifold to calculate O2 content...

But it also needs to know "I THINK" what the ambient air O2 content outside is, i.e. where the starting point for O2 content is... using a sea level set figure in the computer programmed calcs would be a fair way off at any significant altitude.

So i suspect that POSSIBLY the baro sensor faults might "i think" be associated with that ambient air pressure sensor, more so than the Map sensor.

The 0107 is all about Map Pressure sensor....coz its in that first group... that tell about the aior charge within the manifold.

BUT

P2227 code is in a separate group of codes that AREN'T about whats inside the manifold.
P2226 Barometric Pressure Circuit
P2227 Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance
P2228 Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P2229 Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P2230 Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent
"I think" this set of codes all relate to the ambient measurement of outside barometric pressure without which the Map sensor (inside manifold) data is basically flying blind for the ECU to process for fuel delivery, if it doesn't know the starting ambient outside baro pressure baseline.

We all know what a barometer looks like if its hanging on the all in the house for predicting the weather based on barometric pressure readings rising or falling (those of us who are skippers do for sure).

Where this doo hickey is within that model Ranger and what it looks like I have absolutely no fricken idea.

To me it would make sense to be under the hood with the engine BUT the old MMhG ones are rather delicate so unless its some solid state thing maybe that's not a good environment for one to function reliably for a long period so MAYBE its inside the cabin somewhere... MIGHT make more sense...from a longevity point of view?.

Maybe not.

The 2 codes to me (being from different parts of the fault code table) say that data from the Map sensor and Data from the ambient Baro sensor aren't jiving within the parameters that are pre programmed into the ECU, so its setting then engine into limp mode to prevent over or under fueling or damage to the engine until it gets data that makes sense to the ECU.

OMMV

desertfrog
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Joined: June 9th, 2014, 3:05 pm

Re: Trouble codes - any ideas how to fix these?

Unread post by desertfrog » September 9th, 2015, 3:44 pm

A message for leathertech. have you tried looking or poking something light(a pen inner or straw) into the map sensor port? It might be completely cocooned with the black snot.

Leathertechs
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Joined: September 6th, 2015, 6:24 pm

Re: Trouble codes - any ideas how to fix these?

Unread post by Leathertechs » September 10th, 2015, 9:49 pm

Hopefully this is the last instalment in my saga. Picked up ute from Ford today, they also replaced MAP sensor which Autobahn said they replaced on Monday, CEL light is off and no codes, all good. Will return to Autobahn to listen to their side of the story soon.
As a side note, when I ask for help on a forum I expect and appreciate a diverse array of answers, if just 1 of the answers helps me or another reader then the forum has done its job. Thanks for the advice guys.

arief
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Joined: February 4th, 2015, 1:47 am

Re: Trouble codes - any ideas how to fix these?

Unread post by arief » April 16th, 2018, 4:49 pm

Hi guys,

Know this thread is a bit old but, same thing happened to my Ford Everest 3.0 TDCi last Saturday (error Code P0107 and P2227). Cleaned out both the MAP and MAF sensor using contact cleaner and took the battery out for about 45 minutes. This solved the problem previously but this time around the check engine light stayed on and the engine will only run in safe/limp mode.

If I replace the MAP sensor, is there a procedure that I have to go through before cranking the engine? Or is it just replace, plug it in, and start the engine?

Thanks.

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