Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Mazda Musings
ISA.13B
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by ISA.13B » January 2nd, 2013, 9:59 pm

mydmax wrote:ISA.13B
I cannot see how the disconnection of the battery would have any bearing or effect on the tacho sticking or not sticking for a second or two.
If anyone can explain how it could have an effect on it I would be happy to learn.
Does the tacho hang for a small time until the alternator voltage gets going?? It would seem the tacho would be sensitive to operational voltage and it would have to wait until sufficient voltage is happening in the system before it is able to detect the revs. Alt fault ie blown diode/ alt with lower amps output than normal. This will cause the voltage to be slow to build up. That would be my first look see.
Hi MyDmax.

This guys asked:
NINOX wrote:hi guys, name's NINOX.
just asking has anyone ever experienced the tacho rpm sticking on their 2006 courier GL? if so then how would i be able to resolve the issue?
when i start the engine, the tacho rpm takes about a second or half a second to rise. meaning it stays at 0 and then flicks up. could i please get some help?
thanks, NINOX.
Then this guy replied:
workhorse wrote:I had something similar but not exactly the same. Mine would happen with the speedo, same thing, sit on 0 then flick up. Chased here and there and thought it might be the turbo timer. Rang the guys at Boggard and they suggested I disconnect the battery for a few minutes and when reconnected all the better. Had nothing to do with the turbo timer but their advice worked. Mine is a 2000 TD
So I tried it. As you read it didn't work. I guess I'll get the alternator tested and see what that comes back like.
Cheers.
2005 PH Ford Courier V6 4x4

mydmax
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by mydmax » January 2nd, 2013, 11:23 pm

ISA.13B
You can check the voltage with a multi meter set to the 20v scale.
Find a place under the dash which has power to it and watch the meter as you start it. If the voltage rises when the needle jumps up it is a fair indication it is waiting until the alt begins to charge.
Does the needle jump up at the same time as the alt light goes out? If it does then it too is saying the tacho is waiting until the alt starts raising the voltage.

Eureka Cross
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Eureka Cross » March 9th, 2013, 1:32 am

Awesome guys, sorry I don't have anything to add to the thread yet, maybe some time soon.
03 Mazda Bravo

ISA.13B
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by ISA.13B » March 31st, 2013, 7:55 pm

Hey guys.

Who here has RFW lock on the Couriers?

I don't have a manual so don't know what it stands for. My guess is "Rear free wheel lock"

Its only engaged when in 4x4, and I'm assuming it has something to do with the almost locker-like rear diff I have when its on.
Makes the thing pull up hills fantasticly. Was getting better traction with 235/75/15s than a Hilux with 33's!

Cheers
2005 PH Ford Courier V6 4x4

chris_stoffa
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by chris_stoffa » March 31st, 2013, 8:53 pm

ISA,

In mine and the Manual it refers to the "Remote FreeWheel" mechanism , which is an air / vacuum activated way of turning the FRONT hubs on / off and completing the engagement of 4WD.

It does not affect / operate on the rear diff.

In your case it may have been used to activate a rear locker or even both front and rear diff mechanisms if a rear lockert is installed

But I doubt it, what do you hear when its activated ?. A compressor , electric solenoids , anything ??

Cheers
03 Bravo 2.5TD DCab

ISA.13B
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by ISA.13B » March 31st, 2013, 9:19 pm

Hi Chris.

Sounds like its probably that then. Remote FreeWheel.

I have remote locking hubs (there is no manual mechanism on the hubs so must be auto)
My Courier is the 4 litre petrol with an auto BTW.

All I know about RFW is that its just a light on the dash next to the 4WD indicator that comes on when its in 4WD. (so 2 lights, 4WD and RFW)

On my dirvers sun visor its got a notice stating something about not being able to change from 4H and 4L while the light is illuminated. I've never not seen it on when in 4H or 4L however.

All I know is that when its in 2H the rear differental acts like a normal car, but when its in 4H or 4L the inside wheel skips like its a really tight LSD on dirt and on tarmac. (I only know this as I left it on for a few metres crossing a main road from dirt track to dirt track and it left black marks from the inside tyre when turning)

Either way, I love what ever it is. Maybe its just normal 4WDing that I love and this is a normal thing. LOL

Cheers
2005 PH Ford Courier V6 4x4

Boxhead 71
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Boxhead 71 » April 3rd, 2013, 11:11 pm

It stands for Remote Free Wheeling hubs. When you engage 4wd (high or low) your front hubs automatically engage and the RFW light illuminates. When you disengage 4wd the light stays on indicating that you can change from 2H to 4H "on the fly" ie. without having to stop or neutralise. You still hafta stop to get 4L obviously. After you've finished 4bying, you can press the switch to turn the hubs off. As for the rear diff, in my opinion the LSD in the Couriers is awesome. Yours may have been shimmed up a little tighter than stock, but it should perform the same regardless of whether you're in 4WD or 2WD.

ISA.13B
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by ISA.13B » April 14th, 2013, 5:15 pm

Thanks for that info mate.

I didn't know you could shift from 2H to 4H on the fly once RFW is engaged.
Is that for manual or auto or both? Mine is an auto.

Its a little annoying having to stop and put it in park before changing drive modes. ;-)

I believe I got up some sections of the trail as easy or easier in the courier, with no mods and 235/75/15 Dunlop semi road tyres than my mate in his lifted newish Hilux with 33" muddies. But maybe I'm biased. LOL

Im not sure about the diff, it definately skips inside tyres when 4wd is engaged. when in 2wd it doesn't. Either way, I love it.

Just purchased a Hilux snorkel to fit (no one makes snorkels for the 4.0 litre), 2 way and aerial, plus a hand held. Decent spot lights, air compressor and a few other bits and pieces.
2005 PH Ford Courier V6 4x4

Boxhead 71
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Boxhead 71 » April 27th, 2013, 12:47 am

G'day again ISA. When i got mine I decided that as the drivers hand book doesn't go into any detail whatsoever about this feature I'd try a bit of gentle experimentation with it out on some gravel roads. I tried shifting back and forth between 2H and 4H. First I tried driving along, putting the gearbox in neutral and then changing from 2H to 4H, all with the clutch in. Then i tried doing the same, clutch in, but leaving the gearbox still in gear [3rd i think, and doing around 40 kph]. Then again but this time without pushing the clutch in, but with a steady throttle so there was no load on the drivetrain. I did all this several times with no clunking, crunching, notchiness, nor did i have to use any undue pressure on the lever. So it appears that i can be tearing through the scrub in 4wd, come upon a bit of hard packed stuff and flick it into 2wd, then if i happen to come across a soft patch i can just back off a bit, flick it straight back into 4wd and stick the boot back in without losing momentum. I can't imagine it'd be any different for the auto. Give it a try and let us know how ya go.

4x4playNT
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by 4x4playNT » May 13th, 2013, 6:16 pm

Anyone interested in balljoint spacers for a Bravo B2600? I have found my spare set for the upper balljoints. Great for giving more droop. PM if interested
MAZTRUCK- 31" Muddies, 2" Suspension lift, 2" Body Lift, Custom Front Bar, UHF, 2" Shackles, Balljoint Spacers, 1" Diff Drop, Dual Batt, Front Lokka, Sliders, Custom Tray, etc

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Re:

Unread post by cembr4 » June 3rd, 2013, 6:25 pm

[quote=tismemat]
Tip no2

( I got this tip from a guy called "Iceman" from the Ozexplorer website.)

If you have a 2.5td and you would like a bit more power from 1500rpm to 3000rpm, try this.......

1. disconnect the air line from the wastegate to the turbo.
2. disconnect the airline from the inlet maniflod to the fuel aneroid.
3. get 2 metres of 3/16 (4.8mm) fuel hose and 4 small hose clamps.
4. cut the fule line in half.
5. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEXT STEPS CORRECT!!
6. connect the inlet maniflod to the wastegate.
7. connect the fuel aneroid to the turbo compressor cover.
8. make sure the clamps are tight and all is connected correctly and the hoses are out of the way of the fan and belts.

This works because when the turbo is hooked up like factory, the wastegate gets whats called "wastegate creep". This is when the wastegate opens gradually as the boost increases, resulting in the turbo spooling up slower. between the turbo outlet and the engine inlet manifold, their is a pressure drop because of the intercooler and the length of the piping. for example, the turbo might read 15psi at the nozzle but only read 12psi at the intake manifold. Also, the fuel aneroid which is responsible for increasing the fuel when there is positive pressure in the manifold doesnt recieve any pressure until higher in the rev range when the turbo can ovecome the creep and start boosting.

By doing this modification, the fuel aneroid is recieving a higher boost before the intake manifold so the pump starts to deliver more fuel hence the increase in bottom end tourque. Also, the wastegate senses boost from the far end of the piping where the pressure drop occurs. So instead of the wastegate opening up a 15psi at the nozzle and only really delivering 12psi at the maniflod, it opens up at 15psi at the manifold and is about 18psi at the turbo. As the wastegate will be further imune to wastegate creep, the turbo will spool at a lower rpm as well. this is because it has to fill the piping and the wastegate has to respond to the pressure further down the line..

I have tried this and it seems to work. I have a 2.5inch mandrel bent exhaust and in the taller gears(3rd) i make decent power from about 1750rpm. With this mod I was making decent power from around 1500rpm and full power by 1700rpm right through to 3000rpm. There is no difference in the upper rev range. And yes, the engine still hold together....so far. mine runs 10.5psi at the manifold before the mod at 2100rpm, now its 11psi at about 1750rpm

Let me know what you think. P.M. me if you want more technical info.
[/quote]
Anyone care to back up this mod years after doing it??

ISA.13B
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by ISA.13B » June 12th, 2013, 8:39 pm

Hey Boxhead.
Long story short, once I've engaged 4x4 and the RFW light is on (remote free wheel apparently) I can shift from 4H to 2H and visa versa without stopping and putting the auto (shut up) in park.
To shift from 4H to 4L however I need to come to a stop, and engage neutral or park.
So its pretty much the same as the manual, i'd probably have to slow a bit more than you though.
Its all electric, so probably pretty fragile.

This brings me to my next point.... when under heavy load, the front end looses drive. As in the car goes into 2wd.
I found this out while driving on sand at Stockton last weekend. There is a clunk, followed by no front drive.
If I then back out of the throttle (pretty much stops dead once it looses front drive in the sand anyway) the front wheels will get drive again. If I had to guess, I'd say however the transfer case is engaging the front prop shaft that its not engaging properly, or its worn so slips out of drive once a heavy load is applied.

Anyone had this issue before? Auto or manual.

Cheers.

PS: I've put some pics up too. Just a few from my first/last 2 trips. LOL
2005 PH Ford Courier V6 4x4

ben_1986
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by ben_1986 » December 30th, 2013, 8:24 pm

quote=tismemat]
Tip no2

( I got this tip from a guy called "Iceman" from the Ozexplorer website.)

If you have a 2.5td and you would like a bit more power from 1500rpm to 3000rpm, try this.......

1. disconnect the air line from the wastegate to the turbo.
2. disconnect the airline from the inlet maniflod to the fuel aneroid.
3. get 2 metres of 3/16 (4.8mm) fuel hose and 4 small hose clamps.
4. cut the fule line in half.
5. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEXT STEPS CORRECT!!
6. connect the inlet maniflod to the wastegate.
7. connect the fuel aneroid to the turbo compressor cover.
8. make sure the clamps are tight and all is connected correctly and the hoses are out of the way of the fan and belts.

This works because when the turbo is hooked up like factory, the wastegate gets whats called "wastegate creep". This is when the wastegate opens gradually as the boost increases, resulting in the turbo spooling up slower. between the turbo outlet and the engine inlet manifold, their is a pressure drop because of the intercooler and the length of the piping. for example, the turbo might read 15psi at the nozzle but only read 12psi at the intake manifold. Also, the fuel aneroid which is responsible for increasing the fuel when there is positive pressure in the manifold doesnt recieve any pressure until higher in the rev range when the turbo can ovecome the creep and start boosting.

By doing this modification, the fuel aneroid is recieving a higher boost before the intake manifold so the pump starts to deliver more fuel hence the increase in bottom end tourque. Also, the wastegate senses boost from the far end of the piping where the pressure drop occurs. So instead of the wastegate opening up a 15psi at the nozzle and only really delivering 12psi at the maniflod, it opens up at 15psi at the manifold and is about 18psi at the turbo. As the wastegate will be further imune to wastegate creep, the turbo will spool at a lower rpm as well. this is because it has to fill the piping and the wastegate has to respond to the pressure further down the line..

I have tried this and it seems to work. I have a 2.5inch mandrel bent exhaust and in the taller gears(3rd) i make decent power from about 1750rpm. With this mod I was making decent power from around 1500rpm and full power by 1700rpm right through to 3000rpm. There is no difference in the upper rev range. And yes, the engine still hold together....so far. mine runs 10.5psi at the manifold before the mod at 2100rpm, now its 11psi at about 1750rpm

Let me know what you think. P.M. me if you want more technical info.
[/quote]
Anyone care to back up this mod years after doing it??


Yea I'm with you can anyone who has done this mod add any comments on it benefits and/or comment if it has any effect on reliability or any thing else??
Cheers

Ryan_Raider
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Ryan_Raider » September 17th, 2014, 6:55 pm

Hey guys, I just bought a '95 Ford Raider for myself as a first car & it's absolutely great. SLIGHT side issue, bought a Second Hand TJM Bull-Bar that'd been fitted to a Mazda Bravo (Series unknown) And i'm attempting to fit it ... There's 2 bolts attached at the bottom that're horizontal and a L plate bar that makes them Vertical to attach that's all good. I just have 2 main problems, the top attach bolts, I don't see anywhere for them to attach and there is a large U shaped bolt bolted onto the front I assume for towing purposes that.. Eliminates me putting the bull-bar on, should I bother? Like, how hard would this be.. Can post appropriate pics if this is even active anymore, thanks in Advance.

Tothyapples
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Tothyapples » October 14th, 2014, 5:15 pm

Hi all, Just registered and first post. Looking at buying a 1995 FORD COURIER 2.6L 4X4 SPACE CAB UTILITY with 230000k's on the clock. Never owned a 4wd before and would like any info what to look for when buying a 4wd at this age.

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