Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

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BennyWA
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by BennyWA » November 10th, 2011, 4:24 pm

Seems normal? Mine reaches low 90's under load in hot weather but when it gets to mid 90's it creeps up quickly... Usually sits at 80-86 degrees or so..
Cheers, Ben

'13 FJ Cruiser

scottylea12
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by scottylea12 » November 15th, 2011, 8:28 pm

thermo fan works very well would sugest it to anyone having cooling problems. cheers for the help ben
also changed the thermostat and radiator to be safe.

BennyWA
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by BennyWA » November 15th, 2011, 9:42 pm

No worries mate, glad to hear it worked out! Some pics and wiring info would be good! Have done this to the Jeep already and pretty keen to try on the Courier.
Cheers, Ben

'13 FJ Cruiser

scottylea12
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by scottylea12 » November 22nd, 2011, 9:02 pm

sorry bout late reply yeh no worries will try get some pictures up, and when u buy the fan it comes with a wiring diagram but can still write one up if you like. with the fan u will have to custom make some brackets and stuff to hold it

BennyWA
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by BennyWA » November 25th, 2011, 11:13 pm

Beauty, that'd be great mate!
Cheers, Ben

'13 FJ Cruiser

Ruu
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Re:

Unread post by Ruu » December 27th, 2011, 11:53 pm

tismemat wrote:....
I have tried this and it seems to work. I have a 2.5inch mandrel bent exaust and in the taller gears(3rd) i make decent power from about 1750rpm. With this mod I was making decent power from around 1500rpm and full power by 1700rpm right through to 3000rpm. There is no difference in the upper rev range. And yes, the engine still hold together....so far. mine runs 10.5psi at the manifold before the mod at 2100rpm, now its 11psi at about 1750rpm

Let me know what you think. P.M. me if you want more technical info.

cheers
Hi There,

Tried this setup but, noticed the fuel guage dropping rapidly! How 190km from full to half tank! At night the car behind me dissappeared! lol.. :lol: Also noticed the engine was running ruff under light load, and trying to load 2 gear on slight hills.

My solution is to just put an irrigation 'T' inline with the aneriod line to wastegate. simple mod and saves fuel.

Maybe a better move is to leave the aneroid as per factory intended, but still do the wastegate to inlet maniflod, reducing the wastegate, creep. It is a lot more responsive on the hwy. Nice.

To give a slightly better response, use a camp stove jet inline before the wastegate, this will give a better response without, the overfuel effect. (Nissan Silvia Turbos had this setup as OEM factory).

Please Note also that overfueling your engine, increases wear, by introducing alot of unecessary carbon into the combustion chamber(unburnt fuel), and this ends up in your oil, increasing engine wear. :huh: It also raises the EGT for no added benefit. For more info on this go to http://www.costeffective.com.au for a in depth read of booklet on how to make your engine live longer.

Hope this helps some other WL-T equipped vehicles. cheers heaps. Have fun.

BennyWA
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by BennyWA » December 28th, 2011, 12:04 am

Hmm, well about 2 months after I done this mod my fuelpump head warped and it cost me just under 2 grand for a new one... it may have been a coincidence but I dunno...
Cheers, Ben

'13 FJ Cruiser

workhorse
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by workhorse » January 1st, 2012, 9:09 pm

It's interesting what you say about the modification, fuel use and get. I've done this change a few months ago and have to say I haven't noticed any reduction in fuel economy, and my gets have not risen at all. It certainly makes the ute more drivable especially in the slower work and with a load. I run a catch can and have not noticed any increase in oil, and possibly less so. Overall the motor runs even better. I've only done about 8000km but am happy with the changes.
Interested to hear from others on this.

Laffas
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Laffas » June 2nd, 2012, 8:12 am

If anyone is looking for a '72-'93 Bravo repair manual, I found this one at the book depository

http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/Mazda-P ... 1563920844

Currently $26.09 with free delivery

EDIT: web link
1994 Mazda Bravo+

Pipes_3232
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Pipes_3232 » October 1st, 2012, 10:20 pm

Hi guys,
I'm a new user so sorry if this has been asked before... I have a 92 Ford Raider and the transfer chain is about to go but I believe the cause may be that my RFW relay/switch is faulty and its locking my hubs while I'm driving along the freeway (100km/hr+). I'm just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how they fixed it. At the moment I'm disconnecting the vacuum solenoids while I'm in 2wd which seems to stop it issue (the grinding noise) however my 4wd light still flickers.

Cheers

Pipes

Bounty2001
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Bounty2001 » October 5th, 2012, 7:58 pm

would have thought it wouldn't matter if your hubs are in if 2wd is selected it would just mean front prop shaft would spin with the front wheels but is separated from rear via transfer. If you have it in 4wd then it would be a different story on straining the chain on tarmac. With the later models you change between 2wd and 4wd on the move when the RFW is active. Some one correct me if i'm wrong.

As for the grinding is it a cv? I had a stuffed cv, was fine in 2wd but as soon as load was applied in 4wd it sounded awful. With your hub in is the load from the front propshaft enough to cause this grinding noise?

Pipes_3232
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by Pipes_3232 » October 13th, 2012, 5:07 pm

Thanks for the info, the car has been in 2wd when the 4x4 light on the dash flashes and then the grinding noise comes from the front. It can't be the CVs as I thought it was, one mechanic said they were fine but I swapped them anyway (both) and it still makes the noise. After another 4x4 trip it now makes the noise on full lock like a CV joint. I think I'll replace the transfer box and see if it somehow stops the light from flashing.

ISA.13B
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Hi guys

Unread post by ISA.13B » December 28th, 2012, 5:24 pm

Hi everyone.

Just wanted to say g'day and to tell you a bit about my new rig.

2005 Ford Courier PH 4l V6 4x4 auto. (wanted a manual turbo diesel - beggars can't be chosers :lol: )
Its bog stock (as far as I can tell) apart from 15" steel Sunrasia style rims and bigger tyres. Sits pretty high though, so maybe its lifted too.... not sure. I know the IRS is its limiting factor to being a great off roader, but it'll do me perfectly for what I want.
Down the track I intend on "trying" to fit a snorkel from the 2005 V6 hilux, fit a tub liner and buy a tonneau cover.
I'd also like to fit some 33s and lift it further, but that would make getting the dirtbike on a challenge. :twisted:

I'm mainly going to use it for transporting mountain bikes and dirtbikes and the occasional off road camping trip.

Cheers.
Nick.

How she is now............ How I'd like her to be
Image Image

PS: I also have the tacho sticking for a second or so after start up that someone mentioned a few pages ago. I'll try the battery disconnect that has been mentioned and let you know if it works for me too.
2005 PH Ford Courier V6 4x4

ISA.13B
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by ISA.13B » December 30th, 2012, 8:09 pm

Tried the battery disconnect to clear the sticky tacho issue on the PH v6.
Didn't fix it. Any other ideas?

Cheers guys.
2005 PH Ford Courier V6 4x4

mydmax
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Re: Courier/Bravo/Raider Tech Tips & Handy Hints

Unread post by mydmax » December 30th, 2012, 11:11 pm

ISA.13B
I cannot see how the disconnection of the battery would have any bearing or effect on the tacho sticking or not sticking for a second or two.
If anyone can explain how it could have an effect on it I would be happy to learn.
Does the tacho hang for a small time until the alternator voltage gets going?? It would seem the tacho would be sensitive to operational voltage and it would have to wait until sufficient voltage is happening in the system before it is able to detect the revs. Alt fault ie blown diode/ alt with lower amps output than normal. This will cause the voltage to be slow to build up. That would be my first look see.

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