Switching out stock filterbox/piping?

Xavier Darcy
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Switching out stock filterbox/piping?

Unread post by Xavier Darcy » November 12th, 2018, 5:12 pm

Hi guys,
I've recently fit a TD4.2 GU patrol stock nissan snorkel to my f310 feroza, and it fits like a charm, however, I am yet to plumb it in. I would prefer to run an aftermarket inline filter from the airbox that sits on top of the rocker cover to the snorkel outlet as it would be easier, and I have been told that the stock filterbox and associated piping (up to the top airbox) is quite restrictive. In particular, I've been looking at the SAAS inline carbon filters like this one:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAAS-PERFOR ... :rk:1:pf:0

(yes I realise the ad says diesel, pretty sure it doesn't matter). So are these any good? is there any reason why I shouldn't replace the stock piping/filterbox after the top airbox? Are the "washable carbon filters" that come inside this SAAS system any good or are they gonna let dust into my engine?
any help/advice would be greatly appreciated,
cheers,
Xavier.

Peter Aawen
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Re: Switching out stock filterbox/piping?

Unread post by Peter Aawen » November 12th, 2018, 5:45 pm

Dunno who told you that OE ducting was restrictive, it's actually pretty ideally matched to the engine! I did a LOT of testing & trialing on F310 Ferozas between about 1994 & 2010 and despite spending a shed load of time & money on it, I never found anything that didn't entail some pretty hefty & bleeding obvious mods that was anywhere near as good as the OE air filter housing & the big air box on top of the engine, altho I did find & fit a Uni-filter drum that went inside the OE air filter Donaldson style drum housing which significantly improved the air flow and the filtration into the engine WHEN it was maintained properly & cleaned/re-oiled regularly! I also fitted a custom stainless 3" dia snorkel with a Safari Ram head (facing forwards as they were designed to work!) that fed air into the OE filter drum with Uni-filter, but EVERYTHING else I tried to improve air flow besides that & after that air filter drum ended up giving the engine a MASSIVE mid range flat spot (usually between about 1500 & 5500 rpm) & overall simply made for a significant loss of power, fuel economy, & tractability!! The F310's were pretty spiffy to start with, having been 'optimised' by one of the big names in Italian Engine Design (just can't recall the name atm, strokes have a tendency to do that to you! :( ) porting & polishing the head & inlet manifold plus that Aussie Uni-filter (not the US version) in the OE ducting with just a few other fairly simple mods really made that 1600 16 valve motor hum, and for a little 4 cyl motor, added a fair whack of low down grunt too!! :)

So I'd suggest that you keep the intake ducting pretty stock between the air filter drum & the inlet manifold, source a Uni-filter, & plug your snorkel into the OE filter Drum to start with; then start looking for someone to do some porting & polishing on the head & inlet manifold, and maybe even somone to do some ECU upgrading! ;)
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

Xavier Darcy
I'm new, be nice!
Posts: 7
Joined: January 13th, 2018, 11:50 am

Re: Switching out stock filterbox/piping?

Unread post by Xavier Darcy » November 12th, 2018, 6:15 pm

Cheers Peter,
The flat spot was what I was afraid of causing, just didn't realise that removing the filter housing and piping would cause it, I always thought the big airbox was the main thing to not remove. Looks like I'll be keeping the stock housing! as far as plumbing it in goes, my issue is that the GU snorkel comes out where the washer bottle used to be so I've gotta sorta snake the plumbing to the housing inlet, and it looks like the stock piping (as well as that weird banana shaped thing attached to the housing - what does it do?) is gonna get in the way - how have you plumbed in yours?

Peter Aawen
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Re: Switching out stock filterbox/piping?

Unread post by Peter Aawen » November 12th, 2018, 6:49 pm

I had a custom stainless snorkel, so could toss everything on the outside air end of the air filter drum (including that skinny banana bit) & plugged the snorkel straight in thru the guard via heavy flexy hose.

I really think the filter housing & ducting makes for a big store of clean air that can be dumped straight into the engine the moment you plant your foot, workkng sorta like a little version of the big air ram & trunking on the top/back of the F1 cars, above & behind the driver; and taking any of that air store away starves the motor of air when you need it most. The F310 engine really is quite a finely tuned piece of kit that has pretty much everything optimised to work pretty well. The only real way to get it working better is to improve the gear that's already there, hence the porting & polishing & the ECU Uprgade, but be very aware that pushing the envelope too far is likely to compromise reliability. That said, I pushed our collection pretty hard, & ran them even harder for loooong periods at times, but never had an engine fail.... broke a camshaft or two, but never hadta replace a damaged piston or bottom end, or cooked an engine. ;)
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

Xavier Darcy
I'm new, be nice!
Posts: 7
Joined: January 13th, 2018, 11:50 am

Re: Switching out stock filterbox/piping?

Unread post by Xavier Darcy » November 12th, 2018, 7:01 pm

Alrighty, Cheers for all the help! are there any leaks in the OE air piping system that I need to plug in order to make it fully waterproof? or is it pretty much plug the snorkel up and play?

Peter Aawen
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Re: Switching out stock filterbox/piping?

Unread post by Peter Aawen » November 12th, 2018, 7:35 pm

It's been a while, but IIRC it's just a matter of checking all the joins in the ducting (duct tape is good to seal them!) and making sure you've got the little caps on any unused placcy nipples on the air box etc... And I think there's a duck's bum drain there somewhere that you should probably silicone up with sensor safe silicone too, but nothing that isn't fairly obvious. ;)

I extended all the breathers too; diff, gearbox, transfer case, and fuel tank up into the engine compartment, then plugged them all into a single fat hose that I fed up the snorkel with a sintered metal/one way vent cap on the top of it, and I siliconed it up there into the top of the snorkel so it couldn't rattle around. It worked, too! Tied the fan so it wouldn't propeller into the radiator or spray water over everything, and took to w/screen deep water slow & steady! Bloody windscreen wiper motor wouldn't work once it went under, but everything else did!! Just kept to the slow steady pace & the door seals even worked too! Can't say the same for the breathers or the door seals on the 100 series we were dragging out tho! Saved the occupants & all their gear, but the vehicle was just a bit soggy & very second hand by the time we got there & then dragged it out! :eek:

Bloody Fantastic little Trucks, those Ferozas! :thumb:
An Ex-Service person is someone who thought enough about their country & how great it is, how lucky we are to live here, to write a blank cheque made out to 'The People and Commonwealth of Australia' for the value of 'Up to & including my Life!'

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