diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

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diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

Unread post by simsy » August 26th, 2012, 5:42 pm

Hi all, my mate 99 3lt jackaroo is having trouble starting first time for the day.

he has to lift the bonnet and manually pump fuel through before it will start. i think it then smokes a little but is fine for the rest of the day.

we're in brissy and looking for anyone who has had the same problem fixed and who did the work please. as a few diesel shops we've contacted don't want anything to do with it. apparently it's a complex motor to fix.


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Re: diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

Unread post by patrol buster » August 28th, 2012, 9:26 pm

Make sure your running the right oil, has to be 0/30 grade not normal diesel oil (if anyone tells you different, their full of sh#t) or the injectors won't work properly, they run a "Cat" injection type of system which most mechanics don't like.

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Re: diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

Unread post by GU-4800 » September 12th, 2012, 8:58 am

I agree, I had an 02 3.0l Jackaroo until late last year. Motor had about 100, 000 kms on it and performed well. I had the car serviced once and tried a new oil in it. Within a couple of days I noticed that the first startup of the day was becoming an issue, but the car started fine for the rest of the day. Problem was fixed by putting the original reccommended oil back in it.

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Re: diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

Unread post by gloomie » November 25th, 2012, 9:41 pm

thease engines need oil pressure before they will produce any fuel pressure and i have seen a few of thease engines crack the injector pump oil pick up in the sump and theu suck air causing poor fuel pressure try over filling the engine with oil be about 250ml of oil and if this fixes it you may have a cracked pickup

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Re: diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

Unread post by arty1969 » November 3rd, 2015, 9:35 pm

I have 2000 3.0 td and had the same problem as you do. I had to prime it every morning to start it. the problem may get worse if you don't fix it soon. try changing your oil to 5w30 or 5w40 and replace the oil filters - remember there are two. the main oil filter is the big one on the drivers side and the high pressure one is on the passanger side and is a bit messy to do. the other thing is you may be losing pressure in your fuel line. but in my case, my jack had the recall in 2006 and the seals were done, but who really did it and did they lubricate the orings and sleeves before they reinstalled them? no i don't think so, as the bottom o ring was cut off and sitting above the o ring slot on all 4 sleeves. just lately, I discovered this was also to do with diesel in my coolant, the diesel started to soften my coolant hoses, popped a hose in the middle of nowhere as further than 10ks from anything and overheated the engine. now I have another head on its way. I know more about this 4x4 than any other car I have ever had and it wont beat me, I will pull the engine out and start from scratch if I have to. in saying all of that, I love my jack and wont part with it. thanks for reading.

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Re: diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

Unread post by Jackaroo Ted » November 30th, 2015, 2:17 pm

If you think that there might be a leak int he fuel line then add a $5 one way 8mm valve just before the fuel primer filter assembly. If its still needs priming, then the primer filter assembly is leaking air - not uncommon. Also ensure the fuel filter is screwed on tight as I have heard other blokes using non ryco Z321 compatible fuel filters which have a slightly different shape near the screw thread and it doesn't allow the filter to tighten properly onto the housing, so if its not a Z321 or a very good Ryco clone like the sakuras, then the filter can be the fault.
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Re: diesel 3.0lt having trouble starting - any ideas?

Unread post by RichWish » November 15th, 2018, 1:35 am

1. Main Battery Voltage- under 12.4V I kick in (via relay) my second battery. Main is a bit old and needs charging once a month (before the caravan run).
2. Air leaks around the primer pump - tore mine down - rusted everywhere around the seal. Replaced with dual filters with new filter head with primer pump, plus an electric booster pressure 'ratchet pump' to ease the load of the mechanical suction pump. Filters for fuel were 11micron pre-filter and 3micron postfilter with water trap. Engineer recommends 2 micron final filter after extensive damage testing on injectors and microscope testing (great ... cant get them yet but 3 micron best so far). I used Donaldson with a primer 'head' for the 3micron with water trap bowl. Fixed air leak issues.
3. Air filter - used a P&N fabric reusable / cleanable filter. Difference is dramatic and I would recommend one for any diesel.
4. Dirt and water and mould in fuel - use a good fuel additive like F10 (Blue) (dont get mixed up with the blue deodorant for your caravan toilet with a similar dispenser). Change the in-line filter near the fuel tank. These block easily and get forgotten too often. There is a red additive also for diesels.
4. As suggested - keep to the 5W-40 oil to ensure rapid leak back from the injectors after the injection cycle. If too thick this can slow the engine firing cycle, in my opinion.
5. Carbon in oil has a damaging effect for wear and tear plus clogging oil pressure sensor causing failure. I have fitted a dunny-roll filter that ensures nearly 100% clean oil and visual evidence (when changing filter) of water in oil (cracks between tissue layers) , with silvery specks if bearings in turbo or engine are wearing. Used 3 units over the years amounting to about 2 million kilometers. Changed the units over to my next purchased vehicle except for my last sale as the new owner agreed to pay the $250 for me to replace it for my next vehicle. Uncertain about the effect of the OPS [Oil Pressure Sensor] on starting but still running the new "series 3" Oil Pressure Sensor (GM# 98234064 / Isuzu genuine / 8-98234064-0) fitted after the old unit died at 174,000KMs (now 200,500KMs).
Battery charge is my key offender for sluggish starts. I fitted a dual battery voltage gauge into one of the spare switch positions so I know when to reach for the booster pack. Have an isolation Redarc between batteries with a 100A relay over-ride switched from the dash. Keeps my reserve battery (Optima 66AH Blue Top) in good condition for when the voltage is around 12.4V or less. Under 11.9V I use the booster pack (Lithium 85A) which is good for about 3 to 4 seconds before cooling off needed. Has not failed to work, ever.

Be aware of the real problem of dropped oil sump pickups. You will lose your engine bearings and turbo bearings if this is overlooked too long. Reduced oil pressure (sucking air) = reduced lubrication and reduced injector start pressure...also means the electronic pressure oil rail pump (the ORPS) will be working overtime to meet the demands of your computer-engine-injectors. Not a difficult job but takes some time under the vehicle and is good insurance for longer life and less problems and expense.

Just a few ideas to start with.

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