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RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

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Gday,

Yes, that pin should move in and out when revving. If not, take it off and give it a clean, see if that fixes it.

Cheers.
05 LX 3.0TDi D/Cab, 2" lift, turbo timer, oil sep. ARB bar, roof racks & canopy, winch, IPF HID spotties, 265's B693's (work) 265's BFG Muddies (play).

Unread postby CW05LX » June 28th, 2010, 4:58 pm


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Another way to check it is to remove the vacum line while the engine is idling. you should see some movment as you remove or refit the hose
2004 RA crew cab/chassis 3.0TD - Snorkel, bullbar, UHF, longrange fuel tank. sliders almost done
1999 Jackaroo 3.5l V6 - bullbar. The family bus.

Unread postby Ducky103 » June 29th, 2010, 7:07 pm


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i had the same problem with the VRV valve, when it got wet, the car was gutless until it dried out. A quick fix i did was relocate it to the top of the engine bay, near the firewall, using the same bracket and extending the wires. So far hasn't played up since.

Unread postby psiboostn » July 11th, 2010, 11:23 am


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Hi team! first time posting,

Followed this thread and have already learnt a tonne off you lads. Still looking for some advice

I have had my 04 RA ITD for nearly 3 years now and it has been fairly sweet, i have taken her most places and for longs trips and it has always done what i have asked. On a recent trip though it really struggled taking off in the sand, ie if i stopped to check the surf or a fishing spot i would have to rev the guts out of it then drop the clutch. Trying to take off as soon as the clutch was out and revs would just die and i would go know where, forced me to use 4L a lot when i usually would be fine in 4H even 2H. (seems to have lost torque ??)

It is also the same on the road now, starting in first is real slugish, thought once i hit turbo range im laughing. It seems to be working a bit harder to stay around 100km/hr as well.

I was stitched up by used car salesmen when i bought it and it turned out it had been under water and had all sorts of problems about 3 weeks after i bought it back in the end of 07. they replaced the ERG and VRV then.

I cleaned my MAF sensor and it seems to be marginally better but, i tried it out in some sand and she still was not 100% back to her old self. The ERG appears to be running fine (piston moves in and out on the the throttle).

does this mean all my problems steam from my VRV?? I took it appart and checked out the paper cover AUSDEO was talking about and it was cover in white sand and red dust. I am just not convinced such a small component can effect the beast in such a large way? is there a way i can check that it is definetly the VRV that is causing the problem, or just bite the bullet and an buy a new and see how it goes??

any help would be awesome!! cheers

Unread postby jezzdeo11 » July 20th, 2010, 11:00 pm


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Welcome Jezzdeo. You may like to check your intercooler for cracks. They have been known to crack at the top R/H corner between 1st and 2nd fins this could cause a loss in power. It would be more pronounced in sand etc.

Next time it looses power try disconecting the vacum hose on the egr valve and take for a petunia drive to see if there is a gain in power. This points straight to a faulty VRV valve.
2004 RA crew cab/chassis 3.0TD - Snorkel, bullbar, UHF, longrange fuel tank. sliders almost done
1999 Jackaroo 3.5l V6 - bullbar. The family bus.

Unread postby Ducky103 » July 21st, 2010, 5:38 pm


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I had big power loss problems with my '03, took it to diesel mechanic, mine had about 120K at that stage. They replaced MAF and injectors which made small improvement, turned out the fuel pump was flogged and needed a rebuild.
I replaced the VRV at the same time, just got the valve from holdens at about $150 and put my own clean air intake on it. The VRV is definately a weak point in the powertrain in these vehicles.

In my experience the non CRD RA's are very succeptable to fuel pump problems from poor fuel/blocked filters and any diesel engine that has over 100K on the injectors will benefit from them being serviced/replaced

The EGR feeding exhaust gasses back has a cooling effect is because there is less oxygen in the intake and this means that less fuel is burnt/slower fuel burn thus lowering temps. Some electronic controlled engines don't cope well with messing with the EGR systems. Some go into limp mode after a while or they trip the engine warning light
'03 RA Rodeo 3l Turbo Diesel, Body lift, Rear air bags with in-cab control, 31's
'03 120 Series Prado GXL 3l Turbo Diesel
'68 Series 2A Land Rover with Holden 186 engine conversion
'80 WB Holden Ute 304 EFI conversion

Unread postby muckute » July 23rd, 2010, 11:42 pm


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my 03 has all the same symptons suggesting the vsv, but what is the "non CRD" rodeo, as i've got 17000k's up, so the pump & injectors maybe due!

Unread postby OBY » August 14th, 2010, 10:53 am


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hey, im new here, too,

first Holden,first forby,
and with it comes , a lot off try and error.

bought a rodeo 06,
diesel,

same poblems i guess as above descripted,..
no power, when i start the engine, and drive for 2 min.
after the 2 min. ruffly increase off power, but still very gutless.

now , checked my egr valve ,no movement thru the pin,
pulled out the MAF

but forgot to mark what hose came from the hose off the rubberjoiner on the filter,
its a bosch MAF and i see its got the in and the outlet marked on it,.
but i lost track what hose comes,too, and from the unit.

3 hoses, too fit, and im already lost, ;)

by the way someone knows where too get these Gregory manuells,.
i cant find or get them .

RODEO RA 06, 3 LTR.

thanks guys.

Unread postby 108 » August 15th, 2010, 10:03 am


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tested all parts was able to borrow them from another rodeo, the fault defiantly the EGR, it was not seating and was continously bypassing, a new one returned the car to as powerful as always, cost in rural NT $310 including seals.

Unread postby OBY » September 1st, 2010, 7:59 pm


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Hey guys, just wishing to pitch a hypothetical to everyone about a idea i had concerning EGR's.

If someone had a RA Rodeo with a 3ltr Turbo Diesel Engine and they blocked off the EGR from the Exhaust side using a solid metal spacer (appearing much like a gasket) would they suffer any issues concerning engine management or would they have increased engine performance and generally cleaner intake air?

Unread postby The Seth » September 1st, 2010, 9:23 pm


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Re: RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

Hi I just ordered the new vrv valve can someone tell me if an 04 rodeo will take the new valve.. I asked 6 different Holden dealers through the country not one could give me an answer and said they had never come across the problem..... I pulled the old one out after reading this it was clogged up bad with dust and mud... I bought a rodeo to drive off road not around the city.. It runs like a piece of **** need I say more.. had it 2 years new fuel pump spent thousand on dynos and getting people to look at it with nothing achieved... I have ordered a tunit chip for it it has a 2.5 straight through exhust im refuse to sell it as I have spent over 15 grand setting it up with bar work winch and boxes.... If Holden know about why doesn't any service manager know... Oh and to add to it this lemon my auto now over heats when I tow a load.... Im up north so I can rely on any one to work on it... so most of work is now done by myself.... Any one know a good auto guy and diesel mechanic christ I would drive it south just to have it sorted out.... By the way the egr valve is vlocked off at the momment just so I can drive the bloody thing...!

Unread postby RodeoNT » September 9th, 2010, 8:00 pm


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Re: RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

no idea about the vrv mate, as far as im aware the RA series where pretty much identical for all years so it should be good to go.

Would be a good idea to throw on a oil cooler and small thermo (computer cooling fan even) for your tranny, whilst your at it make sure you completely change the oil, maybe even flush the tranny once or twice incase something nasty is floating about in there.

Also have a good look at your intake, what can happen with the EGR is that it feed's a lot of soot into the intake which can build up inside the intake and cause your diesel to run horribly (heres hoping it may be the answer to your performance problem).

Unread postby The Seth » September 10th, 2010, 11:40 am


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Re: RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

Hi all

Just had the EGR valve done on my RA07.Apparently only the 4th 07 in aus tobe done.2 months out of warranty and holden were duckin for cover.Ended up havin to pay for it myself at this stage but aren't going to let this lie.There is a teck bulletin out for the 08.Best thing you can do is have it checked at service.If you want todo it youself just pop the hose off between the intercooler and throttlebody.You will know instantley if there is a prob as the t/b will be full of gunk.

If you should decide to have a play with the EGR don't try a manually move the valve inside as they have a bad habbit of falling apart and ending up inside the engine.Could become rather costly..

Unread postby phillby » September 14th, 2010, 10:12 pm


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Re: RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

Hey guys I got the new vrv valve yesterday its a 05 onwards updated valve has an extra hose push on at the bottom im thinking this goes somewhere to the air intake to keep it clean.... soon as i put it on it made a world of difference. The Tunit chip went in also bit of a prick to wire in the back of the pump but shes goes like a shower of **** now... Im talking to holden about teh valve and what can be done I have found a dealer that is keen to help out with it. So im running the new valve Tunit chip and a 75mm exhust straight through fuel use is abit high but I really don't care about that... The chip is getting tuned in Darwin when im up that way so theres still more power to come...

Unread postby RodeoNT » September 17th, 2010, 11:28 am


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Re: RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

My two cents worth (I have tried & tested).
You are able to blank off the EGR ports on both intake & exhaust however you must still have the vacuum line connected from the VRV to the EGR valve as the ECU will sense a no boost fault via the VRV. The EGR valve can be relocated by the brake master cylinder locating hole using an extended length bolt & it only needs to be held by one bolt in place of the EGR (be sure to spray the diaphram stem with CRC & make sure it works when connected to the VRV). My Exhaust temperatures bearly increased in temperature (definately had more lower end torque after being removed from factory recirculation). I fitted a big bore system 2.5" (this also helps reduction in exhaust temperatures) which is in my view essential on these models I checked my cat converter & found ceramic bits cracked inside this would show why it was slow off the mark & why boost was maxing out on part throttle & took forever to get moving. I Replaced the cat with a cast turbo dump pipe from the TF model (same 4JH1TC engine & direct bolt on but shorter by an about an inch to the cat). Performance was so much better. I fitted a dtronic chip & snorkel later on then dyno tuned & was happy with the performance.
The 3x outlet pipes VRV on some 06+ Ra Rodeos are the pick due to continuous air venting via the airbox intake tract however Holden will sting you a packet & I have never had a engine light fault since fitted. A way around the check light no boost problem is to vent the air inline from the vsv to the egr so fitting an air solenoid (LN130 2LT hilux surf air solinoid to front diff selection) inline via the egr will correct but not fix the actual problem as I said earlier 3x pipe VRV is the fix.
As said in other posts use factory fuel filters & not paper filter as these pumps are prone to blockage which can seriously hurt your wallet.

Unread postby bangbs » September 22nd, 2010, 6:02 pm


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