RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

AusDeo
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RA VRV, EGR Valves + MAF sensor

Unread post by AusDeo » January 11th, 2010, 7:57 pm

Since this seams to be a common problem with early RA's i thought i would start a thread to try and bring the info together and share what i have learnt from my trials and tribulations.

I am luck enough to have one of the first RA's into Aus. This also makes me unlucky, as most of the time the dealership is learning about the problem at the same time i am. The latest example of this is the crack i got in the intercooler that was suposedly fixed under warrenty back in 04. Basically until holden start seeing there fix fail on more rodeos im going to have to rely on "nead it" to plug the hole.

I diegress:crazy:

I wanted to share my experiences with my VRV and EGR valves. Over the past 12 months i have had significant issues with power and engine reliability. The problem goes back to early 03 when the engine light use to come on and go off for no apparent reason. Over the past 12 months this has increased in occurence and has effected my driving in some of my offroad trips.

After several discussions with GMH and some indipendant reaserch on forum sites it became apparent that they had discovered this problem and introduced a fix on late 05 early 06 models. The problem stems from the VRV valve wich has a paper filter at the bottom where it draws its air from. This valve takes air and controls the position of the EGR valve or how much exhaust gass you are re-introducing.

For those of us who actually use our trucks as 4wd's when these valves get covered in dust they tend to still operate as they should. But when these valves then get covered in water (next rain or bid puddle) they tend to clog up and become less efficient and potentially stop working. A quick fix when you are in trouble is to remove the line that leads to your egr valve. This will get you out of trouble but i dont recomend running like this for extended periods.

After some further discussions with my GMH dealer and back and forth between head office it became apparent that they felt a recall was not warrented as it would only effect the small proportion that actually used there Rodeo as a 4wd. Original quote for the bits i needed $620.

Off to the wreckers. Seems no one has an 06 dsl rodeo that they want to share the bits.

Next thing i tried was to remove the valve and replace the filter in the bottom the valve my self. I used a dried out baby wipe as it seemed to be the same material. This worked on and off and i needed to change it after every trip and sometimes during.

After some more frustration and rulling some other things out i went back to GMH to get the parts. this time parts were $598. I thought i would be rude and asked if he could do any better - $510 (moral - always ask).

While fitting the new bits i had the MAF pulled out of in line and after reading previouse posts i thought i would give it a clean as well. CRC Contact cleaner down the guts with extra care not to disturb anything.

Results were incredable to say the least. Truck is performing better than new. I am not a mechanic but understand the basics and the combination of these two changes makes a significant difference to the performance of the engine. Even sounds better.

For those who have, like me, been putting of the change to the upgraded VRV because they don't want to part with the coin to GMH in my case it was the fix. Bare in mine i have carried out regular services with the same brand of lubricants and parts and have rulled out all the usual suspects before i got to the VRV.

Any way i thought my experience may help others who are using similar prefanities to the ones i was using. Others may want to add their stories to confirm this or add more things to check or work arounds.

Image

Cheers,
AusDeo

Pezz
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Unread post by Pezz » January 12th, 2010, 5:43 am

I did the VRV valve in about Oct last year, awesome difference. I had a look in the wreckers but couldn't find the bits so off to Holden. I baulked at the price of the parts and complained that the problem was fixed in later models so why should I have to pay to rectify a problem that they know about and fixed in later models blah blah blah. After arguing with everyone behind the counter I ended up getting it at trade price. 500ish. Money very well spent, the MAF sensor clean will be next.

Lackuwaxa
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Unread post by Lackuwaxa » January 12th, 2010, 7:26 am

I was lucky enough to have one of the fixed VRV's (late 06 model) but I pulled the MAF sensor out and hit it with some CRC ... not the improvment i hoped for, but i was confounded by those useless weak TORX security bits, had the tools, holden just seem to make them outa putty, so i sprayed down the tube ... thinking of biting the bullet and buying a new assembly ... only $270ish

This thing i found that did give me a nice little boost was the EGR ... mine appeared to have frozen open (open or shut whatever position is marked 'remove all power from engine') i found this while 4b'in at my dad's place when the deo looked at a hill and told me it wouldn't play anymore ... i played with it, poured wd40 into it, pushed it back and forth until it worked ... now tossing up one of the two fixes i can find here ... either a blanking plate over the intake (illegal apparently) or buy a new one ... again bout $200ish from the dealer

Wade
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itchyback
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Unread post by itchyback » January 12th, 2010, 8:37 am

Can someone point me in the direction of the VRV and EGR valves?? my car is a bit slow on take off and i wonder if this could be contributing.
'04 Rodeo TDI, Stock, boring, but this isnt a fashion show

Lackuwaxa
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Unread post by Lackuwaxa » January 12th, 2010, 3:21 pm

as your looking at your engine the VRV is just behind the air filter, little black cylinder with 2 vaccum hoses on top, follow one of the hoses and it leads to the egr its right up the back towards the firewall on the right, big odd looking piece of metal that has a piston inside that goes back and forwards.
A Dog Is Not Just For Christmas
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itchyback
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Unread post by itchyback » January 12th, 2010, 3:57 pm

cheers
'04 Rodeo TDI, Stock, boring, but this isnt a fashion show

Pezz
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Unread post by Pezz » January 14th, 2010, 10:16 am

Just cleaned the MAF sensor. Result - absolutley no difference.
Is there a way I can check to see if the EGR valve is working properly? When revving the engine and watching the valve I can see the piston moving in and out, but it never settles back into the same place when the engine is idling. There was a lot of black exhaust gunk too, but I would imagine that to be normal though.

AJGinger04
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Hi people.

Unread post by AJGinger04 » January 15th, 2010, 2:42 pm

Hi people, Just entered forum. I have a 04 ITD Rodeo With 109000 Ks on it, Had 67000 Ks when I bought it.Image Does any one know if blanking off the ERG will do any damage to the motor ?

STEELJOCKEY
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Unread post by STEELJOCKEY » January 15th, 2010, 6:13 pm

AJGinger04 wrote:Hi people, Just entered forum. I have a 04 ITD Rodeo With 109000 Ks on it, Had 67000 Ks when I bought it.Image Does any one know if blanking off the ERG will do any damage to the motor ?

To answer your question........
AusDeo wrote:remove the line that leads to your egr valve. This will get you out of trouble but i dont recomend running like this for extended periods.
Lackuwaxa wrote:blanking plate over the [EGR] intake (illegal apparently)
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newhue
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Unread post by newhue » January 15th, 2010, 7:49 pm

I replaced my MAF recently chasing an extended cranking problem when starting. Holden suggested it, however it didn't fix the problem.

Interestingly though, the new MAF sensor came attached to a new plastic cylinder it is screws into. So if you guys wish to clean it, disconnect the cylinder out of the rubber air intake line, not at where those poxy anti-help yourself screws are.

CW05LX
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Unread post by CW05LX » January 15th, 2010, 9:13 pm

Gday.

Blanking off EGR will increase your exhaust gas temp, meaning you will be up for a turbo rebuild alot sooner.

As for those pesty MAF screws, i cut a slot in the heads of them with a hacksaw blade so i can now use a screwdriver.

Cheers.
05 LX 3.0TDi D/Cab, 2" lift, turbo timer, oil sep. ARB bar, roof racks & canopy, winch, IPF HID spotties, 265's B693's (work) 265's BFG Muddies (play).

J5
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Unread post by J5 » January 15th, 2010, 9:52 pm

CW05LX wrote:Gday.

Blanking off EGR will increase your exhaust gas temp, meaning you will be up for a turbo rebuild alot sooner.

As for those pesty MAF screws, i cut a slot in the heads of them with a hacksaw blade so i can now use a screwdriver.

Cheers.

strange that blocking egr will incrase exhaust temps as al it does is recirc gas back into the intake

blocking egr on tritons is a very common mod and they get big carbon probs in standard form
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AJGinger04
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Unread post by AJGinger04 » January 16th, 2010, 10:36 am

:truck:Correct me if I'm wrong here cause I'm not the best mach in the world.

I would have thought that taking red hot gas and injecting it back into the motor for a second lap instead of shooting it down the exaust away from the motor would would in itself increase the engine temp therefor increasing the exaust temp!
Or is the more to it than than that?:crazy:
From what I understand of egr's is that they are supposed to cut down exaust emissions. But my gripe is that they seem to rob the 4by of power which means we have to boot the engine in the guts to make up for it and that create.s more gas emissions than what the old egr can cut. (You can't tell I hate the darn things, can you ?)

Good idea cutting the screwheads I'l try that.

matty84
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Unread post by matty84 » June 28th, 2010, 1:36 pm

Hi All,

I have been reading with interest the threads about all the VRV and EGR valves on the RA Rodeo. I Have a 05 RA 3.0 ITD. Over the past week when crusing on 100 kmh the engine light will come on and i will loose a bit of power. back of a bit and the engine light will go out!! Strange but reading all the threads it sounds a very common problem. can any one tell me, I have found the EGR valve but have been reading that the pin should move when u rev the engine? should i be able to see this moving?

Also will it record a fault code in the computer.
Any input would be great thanks

matty84
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Unread post by matty84 » June 28th, 2010, 1:45 pm

is this the pin on the EGR valve that i should see moving?
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