Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Discuss technical aspects of your 4WD with other owners, and share your opinions
brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » April 27th, 2016, 6:02 pm

Ive just discovered im only getting 3/4 throttle. There is pretty much zero adjustment on the factory nissan setup, has anyone use a universal accelerator cable?

Shann Low
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Shann Low » April 27th, 2016, 7:26 pm

But no one answered the question - whats the sump capacity in liters of oil?

Heat soak into the sump oil is the issue I am raising!.

1. They were designed as a naturally aspirated engine with a relatively small sump capacity.
2. When turboed, the heat from underside of pistons is wicked away by oil into the sump.
3. How is that then cooled?

Answer = a sub-standard water cooling jacket system, is supposed to some how magically take the heat build up out of the sump oil?

Proper answer is to increase sump capacity and install oil cooling.

The ONLY reason I suggest bypass oil scrubbing is because the cotton wound filter cannister adds another liter to the total sump capacity, and as this is a bolt on kit arrangement - it avoids the costs and difficulties of adding wings to the sump to achieve the same end result and you get the benefit of cleaner oil and longer oil change intervals.

Add in a few more liters capacity for the oil cooler and lines, and you can almost double the Brunswick diesels oil capacity, with just simple cost effective easy bolt on aftermarket accessories with little actual 'modification' - and quite likely find a solution to the inherent overheating issues.

OMMV.

wombats80
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OP & coolant temp sensors

Unread post by wombats80 » April 28th, 2016, 4:58 pm

brendan_h wrote:........ Ive read many things from too thin of an oil, im running delo400 15-40 too light? ....
I've used different brands but always a 15/40. Problem is that if your oil usage/blue smoke is a result of LOM then you can only hope to utilise bandaid measures until such time the engine is rebuilt. Your oil usage needs to be quantified which you said you're doing. Since my rebuild 8yrs ago, 2 liters per 5k is normal & hasn't changed in that time.
brendan_h wrote: ... Just want to know where is a good place to put the pressure and temp sensor? ........
Best location for oil pressure is lhs rear of engine next to the distributor, some engines have a vac pump for the brakes in here, mine is blanked off but on the passenger side of that is an orifice into where you should find your OP sender. Another orifice is found drivers side front of block, i use this for oil feed to the turbo. Both are just outside the vee.

When i sourced my engine i found the temp sender tapped into the rear of lh cylinder head in the coolant blank off plates, in place of the plates i had a crossover pipe fabricated at the rear and at the base of this i installed the temp sender, CTS for glow on the other side and an air bleed at the pipes apex.

brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » May 3rd, 2016, 6:38 pm

what is LOM?
sorted the oil pressure sensor no problems.
for the water temp i drilled and taped a hole into the top of the thermostat housing on the engine side of things.
when i had the sump off i looked at the cylinder bores and they all looked pretty nice, no scoring or gouging. still had the honing cross pattern in them.

brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » May 9th, 2016, 5:14 pm

anyone got part numbers for thermostats?

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » May 12th, 2016, 4:03 pm

LOM is lack of maintenance.

I know some set ups use dual thermostats but a common thermostat substitute was the Landcruiser 1HZ, 1HD-T, etc (90916-03089) thermostat which to this day still sees duty in my 6.5. The foot valve needs to be removed.

johnlyle
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by johnlyle » June 17th, 2016, 7:10 am

Can any one tell me if Linquip in Brisbane is still in business? PS. Lindsay Cullen was the owner. It was the place that Les worked at for many years.

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » June 17th, 2016, 10:53 am

http://www.linquip.com.au/

give em a call i reckon.

johnlyle
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by johnlyle » June 23rd, 2016, 7:12 pm

Thanks Sluche.

62patrol
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by 62patrol » July 17th, 2016, 10:13 pm

Hi fellow chev owners, finally found a recent discussion on these motors! look like these are getting more talked about ( good or bad ) I have 2 GUs with the optimizers in them. my ute is a supercab with a boston canopy which has been great to me in the last few years, it has a N/A motor and the new wagon I've purchased is a Turboed version with 1 owner under its belt, hopefully she can be good to me as well. Has anybody on this forum had experience with supercharging these motors? looking at doing this to my ute over a turbo because of the potential for overheating and because they sound mint! cheers
GU Patrol chopped into super cab with a 6.5 Optimizer V8 Diesel and GU Wagon family tourer with 6.5 Optimizer Turbo diesel V8

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » July 24th, 2017, 5:59 pm

Something tells me there another 6.5 forum somewhere and i'm yet to find it?

I'm not long back from a Central Aus trip and have clocked close to 100,000 kms on the 6.5T in my 80ser since its instal 8 or 9 years ago.

I still have that damn surge, seemed to be worse in the colder weather and still around the 1500 rpm mark.

I've attached a pic in Uluru Resort car park of what happens when temps are around 10degc or less. The smoke is embarrassing and lasts for, i'm guessing, less than 10 seconds. 3 or 4 yrs ago i did a trip and amongst those travels we stopped for a couple nights in Meeniyan where it was quite cool. It wasn't until we'd arrived at Ballarat that the cold start problem surfaced. A fellow from a cabin next to ours wandered out & told me without a doubt that my issue was sticking injectors. I wasn't so sure, all 8 of them?

I remembered from earlier tinkering that the injector pump has 2 terminals in the top housing and one is fuel cut but the 2nd advances pump timing by a few degrees? Cold start? I could have that totally wrong but i supplied 12v to that terminal which seemed to make a little difference. The next morning only has to be a few degrees warmer & there's hardly any sign of running rough or smoke.

Could it be crook injectors? They were brand new units when the engine was built, supplied by ssdiesel. There is no hint of running rough or smoke like this anything over 15degc. Curious as to the fault.

I hope everyone else's rig is running fine.

Cheers, Danny
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wombats80
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Cooling and other upgrades

Unread post by wombats80 » January 19th, 2018, 6:22 pm

It's time to take the 80 in for some long overdue maintenance and upgrades. I'll start with engine cooling 1st. It's been on my mind for a long time addressing the engine overheating issue. It was Shan Low mentioned it some time back, that oil cooling is a key player in engine cooling. The older style NA 6.5 i have was in a troop carrier & the engine oil cooler mounted in front of the A/C condensor, so everything i removed out of the troopy, i followed the lead, fabbed up my own brackets & mounted the OC right back where i saw it came from. I've had plenty of my share of overheating issues on hot days, either idling for awhile with the AC on full tilt or anything over 110kh. I've recently purchased 2 x 18" calcustom finned oil coolers & most of the instal and plumbing is sorted. With the instal of the 6.5 i also added a turbo. Getting rid of heat from the cooling system has been an ongoing issue. I haven't tried every trick in the book but i was beneficiary of a ADC triple bypass alloy radiator & a twin thermostat set up which did little to mitigate the overheating on a hot day. So relocating the oil cooler/s is sure to be a bonus.

I re read Shanns post today & he mentioned use of a bypass filter using the old dunny roll design? When i did the 6.5 nearly 10yrs ago! i bought one of these kits and its still sitting upstairs on the mezzanine gathering dust, he's reinvigorated my chance to finally see if i can plumb it in. Truth is i sidelined it, was plenty busy with other things and did not really know the true extent of how overheating was a real issue until after the instal and road time.

With the ADC radiator, i had to forgo the steel radiator shroud i purchased from Brunswick D and their radiator, back in the day. My way of thinking is that i need a shroud if it does in fact concentrate the pull of air through the radiator core.

wombats80
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Engine Cooling

Unread post by wombats80 » February 4th, 2018, 6:57 pm

Updates for oil cooling. I'm well pleased i found the secondary filter assembly i thought i'd thrown out. 10yrs is awhile to hang on to things that i think i'll use one day then never do but it survived 10 yrs of an annual w/shop clean out. I've plumbed it inline with the oil coolers, essentially oil exits one cooler, through the 2nd filter and out through the 2nd cooler back to the motor.

These bypass filters have been around since adam i think & can be used as a bypass or full flow by drilling out the restriction in the outlet for full flow.

On my 80 series i mounted it up LHS front passenger where there was enough space between the bodywork and chassis rail. There was already a bracket there holding an ally 8L air tank for my air-horn so it got the flick in favour of the oil cooler arrangement.

The big test is out back on the road on a hot day once the rest of the repairs & upgrades have taken shape, mid March.
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wombats80
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10yrs 100k 6.5T

Unread post by wombats80 » May 27th, 2018, 7:10 pm

I didn't get the 80 back on the road until mid April & it hasn't been driven long enough to check on any improvements in engine cooling. But we've done a few day trips not far out of Darwin & even with 5" of lift, driving over small fallen trees is not working anymore. Ripped out the speedo cable and the remote filter got a nudge.

I was going to wait a year before reporting back but it seems the engine surge has gone. After 10yrs i've done nothing to the fuel system. From the get-go it uses a primary Z169 filter back behind the main tank, supply pump is a 7yr old Facet pump 2/3rds the way up the chassis rail pumping through 2 Cav filters before hitting the IP

I bought a rusted WA '98 HZJ80 with 505k on the odo, sold the 1HZ in it and put the gearbox in my '91 HZJ80, it shifted much smoother and had little to no roll-over noise, unlike the one i took out of mine. I put in a new clutch and rear main seal. Shop around when you're pricing up HD 80 series clutches. I paid a $300 premium on a clutch & found out a couple months later i could've purchased one locally less the 300 premium. Mate that hurt a lot. Shop around when u buy anything of course. I do a bit of work for another couple rigs & before you know where else to shop, the 1st shop seems to be the one that can burn the most.

I've had the superior engineering arms in suit 4" lift for ages but when i took the 80 off the road in April, new rear trailing arms were on order. I got adjustable uppers from a crowd on the east coast but purchased 11mm longer lowers from Marks. All i did was measure the same to the uppers before instal. Initially i was going in to repair pinion angle but the primary incentive was to put in stronger arms

And now, no engine surge.
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