Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Discuss technical aspects of your 4WD with other owners, and share your opinions
johnlyle
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by johnlyle » April 14th, 2016, 1:28 pm

My step son has just bought a 75s with a Chev diesel in it. The conversion was done by the owner and the tacho was never set up to operate. My question is does anybody know an auto sparky that alters the alternators to set the tacho pickup from the 6cyl to 8cyl as has been done with mine at BD in WA.

PS. My step son is in Nth Qld so East coast would be good. Regards. Lylo.

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » April 19th, 2016, 5:10 pm

Sluche wrote: i have the kit now for the brunswick airfilter box etc. but i cannot make it up and install it till i have the motor out and the mounts dealt with...
I'd like to see a pic of it if you can, see if there are any changes to what i purchased yrs ago?
Sluche wrote: in regards to gearing, I might have to get a tiny tach to really know what the motors doing.. i have a tach from alt, and it can be calibrated but I've no way to measure its accuracy
The Tiny Tach i used worked well, only weeks after i last talked about how good it was, it finally quit. They contain a battery sealed inside & recommend 5yrs of service life so i think mine gained closer to 8. Given it doesn't get driven a lot maybe added to it's value.
Sluche wrote: i also have overspending (which i am desperately hoping is somehow related to air in the system and not a failing Injector Pump)
I had overspending issues for a long time too but i'm pleased to report that things have settled now :-) However, your over speeding problems is air in the fuel. And man, if you're driving, the engine takes off like it's got a rocket up its date! There's a mechanism within the pump that without fuel, flares out of control for a couple seconds and revs skyrocket then die. I'd get it from inadvertantly forgetting to switch tanks when on long hauls. Then once at the tip of CY i didn't realise my lift pump had failed when i did a filter change back at the tank. For the remainder of the trip i was getting surges of amazing power (would like to harness that and bottle it) and traversing the Creb on our way out was wheel standing fun up some of the inclines. My mates said that was amazing, the skid marks in my jocks was something else. There was air being introduced after the filter change, could be faulty seal on the Z169 filter i used but i also change out the failed lift pump and moved to a Facet pump that has seen duty for several yrs now. Highly recommended over the other generic style pumps BD (used to?) sell

I'm sure there was a mention of radiator fan blade somewhere. When mine detonated just recently, i rang Don Kyatt for a replacement 1HZ unit 16361-17010 forgetting my original 6.5 instalation could not use the fan i already had. I went through DK stock & chose something with a shallower offset 16361-61020 i coupled that with a 1HZ viscous couple but reverted to the spec'd 3F couple after the blow out.

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » April 20th, 2016, 8:44 am

Hi John Lyle,

my Tach was sent to a guy Brunswick recommended and he swapped the printed circuit board on the back, as for the Alt mine had a W (OR M) pin depending on how you look at it a quick google will show a lot of diesel boat guys talking about it from memory. i would suspect that any auto sparky could ad a M (W) pin with ease , simply advise its for a Tach output. however read up on it, the guy who did my board provided a way to adjust it. but the Alt obviously isn't the most accurate for engine RPM given belt slippage pulley size (hence why it has a POT to be adjusted) for dead accuracuy a Tiny tach is pretty well the best recommended one here. (i wanted the factory Tach as i didn't want this giant dead gauge on my cluster :P )

Brendan, i'm yet to have much opinion on oils and such at the rate mine drinks and spews the stuff its the cheaper the better, i will scour this forum again for recommendations when a new motor is in between the mounts. sure if you do a search of the thread you can find what your after, or someone with more experience on the subject will give you a shout.

Wombat,

pics of said kit.
received_1164235306922600.jpeg
in regards to overspending..surging bucking etc.... i broke a rule and i messed with something that wasn't broken and broke it.

the Holley blue is a 13psi max pump, apparently ok if running a thicker fuel like WVO etc. However this higher pressure causes the Injector pump to run at almost full advance. so i purchased the correct lift pump (not a facet pump :( .... i should listen more)

and for the life of me couldn't get the pig of a thing going again once i swapped pumps. double/triple checked everything cracked injectors lines etc etc. had diesel going everywhere but no go.... lost my cool and put it all back the way it was and got it started again with much less effort... BUT! now i have surging and hard starting, and occasionally on cruse/decel massive bucking similar to what you described... and if you don't get into it or out of it my good it gets bad

so am i reading that right? the great wombat surge is fixed? and it was just air?
if your thinking my fault is definitely air that's some hope and motivation for me to have another crack at it :)

my clear return line shows no air after maybe a minute from starting. obviously this is something i can't see when driving down the road whilst experiencing these bucking overspending symptoms... bonnet off i might but don't think i'll making far before i get in the poo driving without the bonnet.

but your not wrong about the amount of GO!! (remember 4.11's and first gear) delicate maneuvers can be a bit sketchy at best...

since i am now in the market for a facet pump any chance of a pic of your install?
i'll be replacing hoses, clamps, filter and pump this coming long weekend it would seem (i am smiling at the thought of it right now though... need to tow the boat with this thing... )
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » April 20th, 2016, 9:06 pm

do you see blue smoke out the back? ive found a bit of info and 20-60 seems to be the go.

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » April 21st, 2016, 7:45 am

Brendan, no not really. its weird as she doesn't smoke but has plenty of blowby can push the dipstick out under load at 7psi of boost. and if you disconnect the CDR it just about smoke screens itself.

this motor is a piece of junk but i've known that for a while, i'm not trying to save or rebuild it but prolong its demise long enough to go fishing a few times and save for its replacement.

OHHH and a leaky drain on the fuel filter base has been replaced and the surging be gone (strange as i couldn't see any air bubbles in the clear return) it mustn't take much air at all to cause the IP to play up.

she's been on charge all last night and all day today, (that self bleed is a pain) will see if my hard starting has been resolved too.... its been playing up since Easter long weekend so it would be great to have it back to square one.

i still need to mess with the fuel supply system (swap to correct PSI lift pump) and see if my economy comes down from high 20's..

(another discovery was that my intake pipe was practically sucking shut while holding WOT in neutral *was checking fuel pressure variation and for bubbled... can't imagine what that was doing under load, my new airbox install can't come soon enough)

brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » April 21st, 2016, 9:57 am

seems these motors are pretty hit and miss. hoping i didnt buy a lemon, i bought my GU with the conversion already done. i dont plan on towing much, just 4wding. However its NA so probably doesn't get as much blowby. Im running 15-40 oil at the moment so im going to try thicker oil when i pull the sump off soon.

its funny how everyone says these motors are ***** but people are still outlaying the money for them.

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » April 21st, 2016, 11:30 am

well my motor is *****, but knowing how bad mine is only makes me expect that a new one will be simply amazing. from the records and receipts mine started life as an NA and someone turbo'd it. probably not the best combination for longevity

brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » April 21st, 2016, 6:48 pm

anyone know where to get a sump gasket locally?

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » April 22nd, 2016, 9:43 am

no idea, i personally use a correct sealant (i have better luck with that stuff than gaskets when it comes to sumps and rocker covers)

brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » April 22nd, 2016, 10:13 am

Will sealer be alright to use on the rear main bearing caps? Where the sump bolts around it.

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » April 22nd, 2016, 12:56 pm

you will still need that little seal for that part, but forms seem to suggest RTV and that seal are more than enough.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pan-Gasket- ... mS&vxp=mtr

brendan_h
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by brendan_h » April 22nd, 2016, 8:10 pm

Do you know of any places that sell it localy. I supose bruswick. Ive got sealent just need that little gasket. Unless the rta will be fine? Maybe try reuse the old one and yse sealer?

wombats80
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Surging or Air in your Fuel

Unread post by wombats80 » April 22nd, 2016, 11:02 pm

Sluche wrote: .. so am i reading that right? the great wombat surge is fixed? and it was just air? if your thinking my fault is definitely air that's some hope and motivation for me to have another crack at it
No mate, we're talking about 2 totally different symptoms here. The surge has never been resolved. Les and i went to much length running over many basic diagnostic steps in an effort but alas. I even sourced another IP. Over-speeding is another matter. The bucking is simply bc the overspeed ceases then starts again. With much more speed and violence than what a surge can produce.

The surging i have predictably occurs @ 1500rpm, no matter what gear but it has to be low load/low throttle, ie coasting. 60kph in 4th or 40kmh in 3rd is all circa 1500rpm. It's exactly like i'm gently feathering the throttle and if i let those oscillations build up, which they will, that's bad also. So either a slight acceleration or buttoning off will mitigate the surge. 100 rpm either side of 1500 and zero surge.
Sluche wrote: .. since i am now in the market for a facet pump any chance of a pic of your install? ..
I dont think a pic will tell you much except an idea where to mount it. Originally the LP was back at the tank where i set up the primary Z169 filter but later i moved the LP fore of the main tank, clumsily mounted to the inner of the LH chassis rail in the drive way of a mates place in Cairns, to get me back home Darbin. And that's where the Facet was sourced & spliced in. Still there many years later doing magic, like out performing all the other generic crap.

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » April 23rd, 2016, 12:07 am

Shann Low wrote: 110 pages and the Brunswick 6.2/6.5 diesel conversions are STILL overheating? :confused:
Shann, dont be confused. A Navistar in an F250 doesn't compare much to even a Duramax in a 100 series. Fitting big engines into small 4wd's was going to be problematic. No matter how fun the idea.
Shann Low wrote: I got banned from another forum for expressing this opinion once.... but in for a penny in for a pound - I'll try one last time! How many liters of oil does it take to do a oil and filter service on the 6.2/6.5 liter Brunswick diesel engines?


Comments like this will get you banned 2nd time around. None of the engines you refer to are Brunswick Diesels. We had an International Harvester as a recovery Tow Truck with a Landcruiser 2H engine. It engine wasn't anything but a Toyota diesel.
Shann Low wrote: The reason I ask this, is because my similar V8 diesel (7.3 liter Navistar [International Harvester] T444E (444 cubic inch) intercooled Tdiesel in the F 250, it takes ~18 liters of oil for a full oil change .. Versus how many liters of oil for the similar sized 6.5 Brunswick? 6 or 8 liters at most?
Remember these motors came out of rigs with bigger cooling systems. Bigger radiators, bigger fans, bigger clutches, more coolant. And you dont know if a Brunswick Diesel has an engine oil cooler? Probably they do. To aid in offset of heat diffusion issues. Point taken. More oil aides in cooling but also extends service intervals. Handy on a Harvester that soaks up that much oil.

I doubt if you can relate bigger iron in a smaller 4wd and say lets plump in more oil to fix over heating. Not much. Lets fit bigger and more efficient cooling systems but the parameters are set primarily on radiator size *diffusion* and coolant flow. I agree with your comments over the cash spent on big arsed water pumps. As tempting as what adding wings to my sump might entail, there's a lot of cast iron soaking heat before i want to head down there. Radiator size and diffusion/efficiency is a bigger key. I'm not sure you mitigate heat quick enough with more oil.

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » April 23rd, 2016, 12:39 pm

jumped the gun on that one, however my issue is resolved!

still to pull the motor replace the mounts and then install the brusnwick airbox, alt and comp brackets. thats going to be an expensive month for sure.

till then i'm going fishing.

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