Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Discuss technical aspects of your 4WD with other owners, and share your opinions
wombats80
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Diesel Tacho

Unread post by wombats80 » November 12th, 2014, 11:55 pm

Been running this for a few years now, http://www.tinytach.com/diesel.php with zero issues. Compact, less wiring but it times out after about 5yrs, so says the advertising back then. Must mean i'm due for a new one soon.

redgibber
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by redgibber » January 8th, 2015, 7:38 pm

Wow, this thread has gone rather quiet. :rolleyes:

I used to be a member here many many moons ago but have long forgotten my original username/password and anyway the email address would be long defunct now!

So I've reincarnated myself....and also my Patrol, by having the latest new (crated) 6500 Optimizer fitted by Brunswick Diesels. It's turboed and intercooled and will give the old girl a new lease of life in towing duties (3.5t van) around WA and further afield. :cool:

BD have done a very nice job with the conversion and altho' it's very early days, all indications are that this is going to be a most enjoyable period for us in terms of van travel. I reckon I should get around 10 years of trouble free driving with the 6.5TDV8 and anyway I'll be in my mid 70s by then so maybe time to slow down a tad! :lol:

Have read through this entire thread and gleaned much from it. Perhaps over the coming years I can contribute to it.

Cheers
Red

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » January 13th, 2015, 10:44 pm

Nice!

Red, i've seen an 80ser in Darbin with the Optimiser, towing, all good for ages until he struck hot weather. There's another bloke massaging the cooling system, changing over to bigger flow pump and Duramax coupling and fan combo. Heaps of difficulties struck just doing that swap. He used a fiberglass bonnet from Bullet (?) with a scoop at the front, venting above the scuttle panel. I'd like to hear the feed back after the early days have passed and you've had a good run around Oz.

I'm pleased you're out spending the off-springs inheritance, the way it should be done ;-)

redgibber
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by redgibber » January 16th, 2015, 7:15 pm

Gday Danny, hope it's not too sweaty up there in Darwin! :lol:

As it happens, a close friend has also had the conversion done but about 3 weeks before mine. His tug is a 100 ser std. A side-by-side comparison under the bonnets reveals somewhat different radiator arrangements. The 100 series appears to be taller, whereas mine appears wider. This is probably due to the different bodywork between the 2 vehicles. Both radiators are 4-core.

On a recent pre-Christmas trip to the mid-west coast of WA we were both towing our vans (3 tonne +). I was in front, and would gradually slow on the climbs (still had the 4.2 at this time) and he, with his recent conversion just plowed up behind me without any problem. Both of us using cruise control. He reported that there were no indications of water temps being higher than with the old 1HZ with aftermarket turbo. Ambient temps were not overly high however...maybe around 25°C.

As for me, we're off for a short break just after Australia Day, with plenty of good climbs in store , down to Bridgetown in the SW of WA. Ambients will most likely be in the low 30s so we'll see how we go! :cool:

Will report back here afterwards.

Cheers
Red (Andy)

kbad
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by kbad » January 19th, 2015, 7:40 pm

Hi Andy another west aussie with a 6.5 here we have had a few mods done on ours to fight the heat all good now gave it a good try out in 39C heat towing the van (3T) worked well. Will be down the SW after the kids go back to have a poke around, rear alternator bearing just shat itself spoke to Greg @ brunswick he reckons he has a better alternator and bracket setup so am getting that sent up to replace the dead one, might see you around the traps. Ours is a 105 series.
Cheers Karl

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » January 19th, 2015, 9:56 pm

Thanks Andy, its been heaps sweaty up here but interspersed with some very good rain.

It'll be interesting to see results with the travelling in higher ambient temps. Everybody seems to have a different story but a common theme is over heating. And you're not talking coolant spilling out all over the place from a system not properly contained but about temp gauges reading high.

Increased coolant flow with efficiency in diffusing heat, ie air flow across the core and the capacity of the core is the order of the day. Not new news. Some systems seem better than others. Some promote phenomenal results with very little work and others seem to get hot under the collar real fast, despite claims to a number of improvements.

redgibber
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by redgibber » February 2nd, 2015, 8:44 pm

OK, so the trip to Bridgetown and return went very well! Covered about 770km with ~600km with the van (~3.5t).
At no stage did the temp creep above normal even though ambients were in the mid to high 30s. The hills around Bridgetown can be (and were!) particularly steep, but the Patrol excelled. Maximum EGT while towing (thru hills) was close to 400°c and boost nudged 10psi. On the flat (still towing) EGT 270°c and boost around 3psi.

No loss of coolant, and a slight decrease in oil capacity over the trip. This engine is new and therefore a bit tight, so an improvement over the 19.5l/100k should be achieveable over time.

I'm happy with that!!

redgibber
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by redgibber » March 18th, 2015, 7:54 pm

Hi all,
Have just returned from a 2800km holiday trip down to SE WA and back to Perth.
Most of the mileage was while towing our 3.5t van, but I was a bit disappointed with the higher than expected fuel consumption which was 20-22l/110k. My travelling partner, also with a 6.5TDV8 and travelling behind me commented more than once that the amount of black smoke emitting from the exhaust seemed excessive when I was under even moderate load.

As it turned out, our way home took us through Brunswick Junction so we took the opportunity to drop into BD and have a chat with Scotty and Greg. It was acknowledged that there was an overfuelling issue so BD's IP bloke Matt hopped under the bonnet and did some fiddling to the Stanadyne IP after confirming the black smoke issue.

After a test run, Matt concluded that the black smoke issue was no longer an issue :lol: and that I should see an improvement in fuel consumption but a slight decrease in power.

Well, fuel consumption for the rest of the way home definitely improved :waycool: and the extent of that will be known when I fill up tomorrow. As for a decrease in power.....none noted!

I'm still smiling with the way this thing just eats hills with minimal effort!

Cheers
Red

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » August 16th, 2015, 10:58 pm

Still here but dont check in as much these days. Just used one of Patricks pics from WA geez that brings back memories, none of which i was there for. Great pics tho' Pat. Still want to cruise to WA southern parts again someday.

My 80Ser 6.5T transplant i did is still going well after 6 or 7yrs. Never recorded the k's on instal but surely has breached more than 60k in that time.

The low load, low throttle surge is still there, for ever a reminder it never got sorted. It is a beach and for ever a reminder ..

Both my Auber gauges for boost and pyro turned to mayhem, spiking or just not working. Need a tech to consider poor gauges or crap product ..

johnlyle
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by johnlyle » December 23rd, 2015, 1:37 pm

Gday every one been off the air for a while. Not much happening here, the tech issues I had while on mine sites are no longer a problem it seems. The old girl is still going great. That's all for now.


Regards Lylo.

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » February 4th, 2016, 9:33 am

Alrighty.. long-time reader, first time 6.5 owner and poster... hoping to clear up a bunch of problems, get some opinions, ideas and suggestions. Probably going to be a long read but i'll try my best to not ask anything already covered in here.
A little History
I purchased a dual cab chopped 6.5TD 80 series, as a project and replacement for my tired NA 2.8 ln106. Saying it’s a bit of a mess is putting it lightly... i had (still have... kind of) every intention of fixing it up… but I’m encountering problem after problem with it, some major (to me anyway) and some minor.
The motor is tired… blow the dipstick out the tube kind of tired. its a pre 98 6.5 NA motor that had the turbo heads and manifolds installed on it in somewhere around 07 just after a complete rebuild based on the receipts. Turbo parts were supplied by Brunswick. (i'm waiting to find out from them if the 07 bits are the new and improved ones, as I may recycle them… but the rest, it’s safe to say is the old problem prone stuff...that’s factory NA with a turbo dumped on it) a replacement motor is required 6500 or P400 (whatever the missus will let me get away with)
The installation of the original motor was done in 1998 at Linquip AFAIK or the kit for installation was supplied by them... (The car is a 95 it should have still had the new car smell at the time)

The install however I think is the cause of some problems, there are 2 huge chassis plates welded to the inside of the frame about 8-10mm thick and 500 to 600mm long with the mounts welded to these. The motor sits more rearward in the bay then most and this caused the turbo exhaust housing to rub on the brake lines exiting the master cylinder.

Problems
- worn out motor needs to be replaced. US dollar is kicking our butt so prices are high on replacements… long block? Short block? Complete motor?
- ancillaries… I have AFAIK a 1 off set of brackets that place my accessories in odd position… also its V belt would like to go to serp for the HO water pump and more common ancillaries…
- last run I took it on I got 26L per 100km… no black smoke that I could see…
- engine placement, should it be moved? Can it?
- dump pipe hits the frame, I can see it and feel it when I drive
- pretty sure I have standard 4.1’s  have a tach (not calibrated as its run from the alt) but my engine speeds are high and boosting about 5psi to maintain 90-100kmph
- my alternator is mounted so high that the top radiator hoses sometimes touches it...
- factory airbox has been relocated and my intake track I believe is restricted (its practically folded over on itself)...
- electronic fuel pump in mounted to the firewall (makes a hell of a racket in the cab)

Questions
- who has installed this motor from a kit from Brunswick? And can I pick your brain for the following?
- In 1 post I saw it mention that the gearbox cross member was slotted as per instructions from Brunswick to get appropriate fitment. Can someone confirm this?
- is there much of a guide for good or correct engine placement? height in bay, and distance from firewall/rad support etc?
- Also does anyone have pics of the engine mounting kit? Is it installed with weld in chassis plates like mine or mounts for the motor adapted to fit the factory 1hz mounts in the 80?
- People have retained there factory AC and Alternator? Did you buy off the shelf brackets/parts for this? And where from?
- Vac pumps, been covered to death but do people still run vacuum canisters with the electric ones? Are they noisy?
- Where are your Vacuum canister installed? How big are they?
- air boxes and second batteries… I want to do the dual battery setup left and right of the radiator, is there an airbox solution that works in this location with the safari snorkel? (my airbox has been moved) I do love the Brunswick one…
- 3.7 ratios the way to go? Its running 35’s atm
- what lift pumps are people running? Where did you install them? Are they wired to come on with accessories, (mine currently is) or to start with cranking and oil pressure?

thanks all, hoping to hear some positive answers/options/opinions and solutios as i need motivation to continue it... not burn it to the ground...

cheers

Steven.
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wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » February 8th, 2016, 6:17 pm

Hey Sluche, had a good read through your post and need to read it again. I logged in here to gain an idea when i installed my 6.5 in the 80series. Unfortunately kept no mileage records, if i did, then they're lost. My radiator fan grenaded y'day, badly damaging the radiator, no leaks but the core looks minced. Bit of a hectic take off from the lights to change lanes, big bang and a cloud of dust out the back, thought i'd run over the corolla i was over taking.

26/100, wow that's steep. i stopped keeping fuel records some time back but between 16 & 17 is normal. Manual trans, changed the diff gearing from 4.11 to 3.73 (10% taller) then a Marks Adaptors speedo corrector added in. Tyre diameters are factory.

The engine does look to sit further back but in fact the gbox x-member is slotted to allow 20mm forward placement, including the Marks4wd bell housing adaptor.

Your engine mount bracketware sounds like old school, Marks supplied me bracket ware for my 80 to retain the factory 1HZ engine mounts. The factory engine mounts are a solid, wide pad and good to retain, in my view. Any cutting and shutting of chassis mounts sounds like they retained the factory GM mounts and adapted to your chassis. With the Marks kit i purchased, no under bonnet clearance issues. The hi-mount turbo dump pipe was an issue with proximity to the brake master cylinder lines, you have a heat shield, i have lagging but enough clearance also.

out of time now but be back on later, cheers

wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » February 9th, 2016, 12:03 am

I remember now trying to contact you way back. Your pics are good. When i spec'd up the transplant i did with my 6.5T 80ser i already had an aux battery, sits right where your factory a/cleaner was relocated to. The 6.5 i rebuilt and added the turbo to, brunswick supplied me a smaller, custom air filter box to fit in where the old one sat. I only used part of it. It was all very ad-hoc. Despite the fact they do these conversions for a living, i was left to sort out how to make everything fit. Right down to the top radiator hose that was not supplied at all along with the wrong lower hose, old mate clown says ' just find something that fits'. When i rang to speak again to Andy the telephone person, Andy put me on to Shaun the fabricator, when i rang again to speak to Shaun the fabricator i was passed on to Duncan the fitter, when i rang again to speak to Duncan the fitter, he said he never heard of Andy and did i have the right number.
I found that a '47ser radiator inlet was perfect dia to match the t'stat housing and the rad that B'wick supplied me, i later had their top tank cut'n'shut to accept the new, larger inlet. And a perfect angle to accept a straight hose.
With this instal I chose to retain (because there was bracketware from brunswick to say i could) the factory 80ser a/con and alternator mounted drivers side. Same v-belt style and only a small mod to the a/c suction hose to duck under the intake. The bracketware to remount the factory alternator & ac compressor locations took a lot of work to adjust to suit & get pulley angles aligned.
The dsl lift pump i originally installed back at the tanks but later moved along the chassis rail closer to the motor. the plumbed in Z169 pre-filter remains nearby the tanks. I had 2 generic pumps fail (1st one supplied from BD but failed warranty - bad fuel they says - got funny pics of over-supply of loc-tite on their fittings, they reoffered me that one as reconditioned but i elected to buy a new one & that one failed also, at the tip of CY) the last 5 years or more a Facet pump has delivered fuel supply to the inj pump WITH OUT fail. It's wired in to ACC. No OP cut out.
Still using the same Summit Racing vac pump for the brakes. I included rubber insulators as part of my bracketware as it shared the firewall LHS but it's not that quiet.
Cheers, Dan

Sluche
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by Sluche » February 12th, 2016, 9:55 am

Hi Dan,

thanks very much for your reply, yeah I'm still fiddling with this thing. so far and after speaking with a few conversion people. i'v opted for the not cheap option of getting the standard mounts put back in and going the Marks kit... honestly if this was done originally i would of probably put the HZ back in it for ease and built up the 6.5 in my own time.

bad news about the Radiator, I've seen the receipt for the one that came with my car $1900 i believe.... happy i didn't have to pay it... should probably get it fully serviced (i'm sure there were a few chunks floating around in it when last looked) no overheating problems thought... with the fan and shroud now installed. but my water temps do climb towing 2T of boat and trailer over 90Kmph... but based on my fuel consumption i'm sure this is just over fueling and 'm pretty sure my EGT's are rising because of it and in turn water temp... i've got the pyro gauge but not installed as of yet. hope i can fix economy and the temp issue with a tune up (and with correct gearing i see no reason why i cant tow at 100 constantly...)

what i believe i have ended up with is a 6.5 conversion that requires a 6.5 conversion... including at the very least a short motor to boot.... not what i had intended when i was overeager to get my first 6.5

going over and over the serp vs V belt options i can't see a good enough reason to change and talking to brunswick i can get the bracketry to fit the standard AC and Alt on the drivers with the V belt setup (or Serp). the HO pump is the only thing i honestly believe i might be missing out on by not going with the Serp Setup.

the hit list as it stands
- remove chassis plates install standard hz mounts and use marks adapters (slot g/b cross 20mm)
- purchase standard AC comp, alt and hardware - rewire
- 3.7's
- eventually buy a new 6.5...
- tune it and enjoy it (if at this point i can afford to fill it)

and on the subject of new motors, is there any experience here with purchasing them from the US, I've seen heaps of threads suggesting it and listing US suppliers, obviously the exchange rate isn't doing me any favors but I'm fairly sure this is also affecting prices locally too... has anyone got great success stories? recommended sellers etc?

i'm on the fence still due to costs. surely i could buy one done for less than the expense of parts and my time to fix this... and i know i'll never get my money back out of it, but how much am i actually increasing its value?
i've already invested time and money to get it to where it is and feel pot committed so to speak...

i'm liking the look of the Airdog setups for a lift, supply and filter setup
http://www.xtremediesel.com/AirDog-A4SP ... ystem.aspx
seems a neat piece of kit and will reduce the number of fuel line connections and reducers currently in my over complicated system too.

and i keep coming back to hyrdoboost systems to eliminate the need for Vac.... expensive but there is a 80 series hydroboost available and some 6.5 chev ps pumps support hyrdoboost (in some chev's) so it would just be the complication of lines. i've read peddle feel is lacking but braking power is untouchable... i'm sure i could adjust, i would really love good brakes on the thing.

Dan do you remember what the airbox set you back? and is there any chance of a few photo's of it? if its not an overly complicated design i might attempt having something made locally.

i have an excel sheet full of links, parts, prices, ideas etc... this thing could end up costing more than my house if i get everything i want...
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wombats80
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Re: Chev 6.2/6.5L Diesel Engine Tips and Tricks

Unread post by wombats80 » February 22nd, 2016, 12:59 pm

Hi Steven,

All prices 2008

BD custom air box $275

The BD supplied custom radiator $1336

Custom cowl $265

Alternator and a/con bracket ware, idler, belts $400

With the air cleaner I had to add on my own foot mounts to inner guard which i cut off the original housing. Ended up turfing their lid in favour of cutting down the original T unit. Using their lid meant drilling a bunch of holes to screw it down. And i can not stand bunches of screws holding down air cleaner lids. I adapted T's center bolt with the wing nut in the middle. With the aux battery & hi-mount turbo there was only room for a small housing which uses a 100ser K&N filter.

I had to find my own hose between the air cleaner and turbo. It didn't come with the $11,500 spend at the time

Get some pics to you shortly

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