Jimmy 40’s

[Reddo]

Well a few have asked that I post up some of my pictures and information on my 40 series Land Cruiser SWB. I have to say that I do have plenty of pictures of the 4wd and build up but many of the pics are photos that need scanning, sooo here we go. My motto has always been;
By all means follow my lead, but don’t blame me when your truck falls over or brakes ;).


Specs;
1978 BJ40 SWB land Cruiser
Soft Top
SOA Conversion
Shackle Reversal
Rock Sliders
Front 60 Series Disk
60 Series Power steering
60 Series 2H (3900cc) Motor
60 Series 4 speed Gear Box
Split Transfer Case
Tuff Dog RTC Steering Stabilizer
Snorkel
Anti Track Bar
2” extended shackles on the rear
AC Pump Reversed to Supply endless air, which is connected to the;
Pump Up Shocks All Round with the rears controlled from In Cab
2 Alternators
Double Cardigan In The Rear
Custom Bull Bar
2 Night Stalker Spotties
H4 Inserts
Roll Bar which is being used as a air tank
33" BF Muds on RD
34.5" Bias Ply JT2's on Off RD (measure about 35"s anyway)
SAAS sports wheel
Escort Buckets with Tinker Bell Seat Covers
Lots of Chrome in the cab (BLING BLING)
And a pirate on the diff

History Of the 4wd and build up process;
The 40 was originally bought as a paddock basher for $1300. After a while we noticed that the original 31” BF All Terrains weren’t doing so well in the wet, so my father and I built a set of chains for it. As we continued to 4wd for a number of months until we noticed that we were getting stuck a lot because the body was sitting on the mud, this is when the 40 was Sprung Over. At this point I will end this little story and fill the rest in with pictures of the build up.


Current shots;


Sittin on 33" Muddies

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f151/jamesj2/WebFlex.jpg

and

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f151/jamesj2/WebBank.jpg



"It is important to understand that a Spring Over Axle Conversion is a dangerous conversion if not done properly. There are lots of details to pay attention to......."

thanks reddo ;D

didnt know it had so many mods :o

cnat wait for the pics 8)

sounds like a beast

[rat patrol]

60 Series 2H (3.9cc) Motor





Dude that is one SMALL motor you must have a sizable tubo on that thing
3.9cc don't know how you do it ;D ;D ;D ;D
Cheers
Rat

[Reddo]

Dude that is one SMALL motor you must have a sizable tubo on that thing
3.9cc don't know how you do it ;D ;D ;D ;D
Cheers
Rat


It does alright actully, since its been re-built, but im not going turbo it because its better to for a lexus V8 or find a 12HT.

[rat patrol]

dude you missed the joke
it should be 3.9ltr or3,900cc.
3.9cc is realy small ;D ;D ;D ;D
Sorry mate me just being a smart ass ;) ;)

Cheers
Rat

[HnM]

A couple of pics that I have.

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/highnmighty/afh.sized.jpg
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/highnmighty/afi.sized.jpg

thats an animal

[Reddo]

Thanks Craig. 8) Thats sitting on Crankys 36" Peds which he kindly let me try on a while back.

This the is closest shot i have atm but im going to try and do a Photo shoot tomorrow for the thread, as well as scan some pics

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SwAAAN4Wk2uFU39*It8jl4XdnEQk0650vNCbdqhNQJ0IIeBiy OcW41HJMDz54fIaymH2jhA7Hclx75oTObEGAd86OSwIbth3ntY mO5rbwUjQgOabtIo5Ow/Maccers%20two.jpg?dc=4675508560941782544

[BushBoy]

looking cool dude 8)

it's a shame you can't keep the tyres too :P

[crankycruiser]

looking cool dude 8)

it's a shame you can't keep the tyres too :P


He can buy em tho ;)

I think I have some pics somewhere Jimmy.. i'll dig em up afta..

[crankycruiser]

Heres a couple:

The 40 Broken ;D

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgAdA74TFJaHKAc7xzWzKQqCWMovHN8V16wxpL05Q2!qU9LUy FWkCr9eIYYPQet7yj5KIwlSb2JdZlQMnY25pjDLQAj!F0u9TQ1 IFNzf0tQ/DSC00439.JPG?dc=4675524516139596579

the 40 at Pelverata.
http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwAdA!YT7aHhLGiCuEF6vnhSwDIENI1M1hTLWEh5XzpzE4MmW 2AjxKppr95SyrH*BysmG9!eRHZcQbjN3Z5KiqtBxsKoaWq3FUo G22whsuE/DSC003050.JPG?dc=4675524517182510082

did he do a CV or somthing elce

[Reddo]

looking cool dude 8)

it's a shame you can't keep the tyres too :P


He can buy em tho ;)

I think I have some pics somewhere Jimmy.. i'll dig em up afta..


thanks dude, much apreciated 8) And if i have the dollars i have already told ya that i'll take em off ya hands ;)

[crankycruiser]

did he do a CV or somthing elce


ROFLMGDAO.... U have to spin the wheels to break them.,.....

A wheel bearing shite itself

did he do a CV or somthing elce


ROFLMGDAO.... U have to spin the wheels to break them.,.....

A wheel bearing shite itself


lol bugger

did he do a CV or somthing elce


Hub bearing collapts when they got full of crap. Fixed it on the side of the track on the way out and drove it home on 3 brakes ;)


watch out for the hard core

[Reddo]

Okay, hears an overveiw of a SOA conversion. This is pretty much the one i followed when i did mine and is much better that what ever i could type.

Just a disclaimer, most of the pics have been taken from other websites because i didn’t take any when i did mine. This is the same for the information which comes from http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/index.html#contents
This is the man behind all this work.......which many have followed.


Advantages, Disadvantages, and Overview of the SOA

The main purpose of SOA if mostly for 4 wheel driving purposes. The biggest advantage of the SOA is additional ground clearance of your body and chassis from the ground. The SOA also allows you to run much larger tires if you are interested in doing so, generally the 33" tires as a minimum required size but 35" tires are much more adequate for a SOA using stock-height springs.

The largest disadvantage is also the increased height of your vehicle. It makes it tippier and because of the nature of physics, unless built intellengently it will require more thought when driving both on the street and off road.

For vehicles that see mostly mild trail driving and are daily drivers, we would recommend sticking with the simple 2.5" or 4" lift for your cruiser, they are more than adaquate to get your cruiser going up and down most obstacles and provide the best on-road handling and characteristics.

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61935.jpg

Overview:

A SOA is basically removing your leaf springs from your axles in the stock configuration, and bolting them above the axles. It naturally raises your rig about 6” if you are running stock-height springs, and more than that depending on how much arch you have in your springs. Though it’s a relatively simple conversion in theory, there are number of fabrication related modifications that you have to make to compensate for the additional lift. Because your transmission and transfer case sit so much higher with a SOA, but your axles stays in the same location, you have to make adjustments in the steering, angles in which the differentials point, and some basic suspension changes. You also have to deal with brakes, emergency brake setup (when applicable), and of course, modify your steering.

Safety:
Because of these factors, there is always “that guy” who who we are worried about. It’s probably the guy who says “this thing is only going to be a trail rig,” but fails to remember the truck will need be driven, even if occasionally, at 60 MPH to the trailhead, and will see some street time regardless of what he says to himself. Because it will “be a trail rig” some corners are cut, the rig handles awfully, the springs are too soft without other compensations for them, and the truck is dangerous. Time and time again, other than power steering conversions, the most commonly botched modification is a SOA conversion.

Therefore: USE COMMON SENSE - take measurements, remeasure, and re-measure again. Do not be in a hurry to do things, and make sure you do it right, because it’s your life, and your 5,000+ lb missile riding on your axles and on your welds. Make every SOA conversion something that you can do 75 MPH with and have no fear or concerns about. The SOA is a serious modification that should not be taken lightly.


If your SOA is done right, you should have no problems driving your rig on the street at 75 mph, or as fast as your truck will let you. A SOA that is done right can actually make your truck handle better than it did before.

[Reddo]

How Much Height and Which Springs to Use
Height is a big issue with spring overs. The most common question is, “I forked down $1,600 for an Old Man Emu suspension kit (or some other lift kit), can I still use it?”

Yes, you can, but for every inch of lift you have, add another 5-6” for the conversion to it. So if you have 2.5” lift springs, you are going to have about an 8.5” lift, which is tall, more than tall enough to run 37’s on any Land Cruiser. General folk lore is that a SOA on somewhat flat, stock springs will easily allow you to run 35" tires. In some cases, you can even run 37” tires with a SOA with stock springs.

Generally, because you are lifting your rig so much, you are also increasing your vehicle's center of gravity. Ideally, you want to lift your vehicle as little as possible when doing a SOA conversion. If you are planning on running 35 or 37" tires, your rig will be more capable with the smallest amount of lift you can give it room to adaquately clear the tires, but keep your center of gravity down. This is *especially* true with wagons that are off-roaded.

The minimum height of a SOA (5-6" lift minimum) naturally allows all Land Cruisers to be able to get over 90% of obstacles you should be taking the vehicle over in the first place
The best springs for a SOA in my opinion are stock with a mild add-a-leaf put in. I’ve run a good variety of springs in both stock formation and with different add-a-leafs in them (mostly because Cruiser springs go flat so easily), and I’m now a firm believer in use of add-a-leafs. This gives you a somewhat minimum lift over 6,” which will allow you to run 35" or 37" tires, but has the strength to hold up to the SOA setup.

It is commonly said that the best springs for a spring over axle conversion are soft, stock height, broken-in leaf springs. This is simply NOT true unless you want a very soft, unstable susension.

If you think about the physics of the SOA vs. SUA setup, in a SUA the u-bolts naturally keep an arch in the spring and make them last a long time. But if you take a good set of perfectly healthy springs from a SUA and put them SOA, without making “strength additions” (aka extra leafs or an add-a-leaf), then you will notice within days or weeks that they will become very flexy and may start to negatively invert. The direction the u-bolts naturally pull in, in a SOA setup, naturally wants to flatten them out, versus the stock spring-under-axle setup which pulls your springs into the arched position.

On a wagon, it is almost mandatory to use an add-a-leaf at minimum. On a 40 you might get away without one, but I wouldn’t recommend it. The best add-a-leafs are the long, somewhat soft and flexible ones. You can always get a leaf that is much longer than your pack and simply trim them down as well and most spring shops will carry them.

Also, when doing a SOA there are usually a number of smaller leaves towards the bottom of the pack. When you think about it, each of those extra leaves will make for another 1/4” of lift for each spring, so I have typically removed the smallest two leaves, and run about 5 leaves total including the add-a-leaf, and have had great results.

[Reddo]

Spring Perch Ideas and Options
Because you are relocating the springs above the axles, you’ll need to buy or make some new spring perches (or “pads” they are sometimes called) for your springs to rest on. There are a number of options for perches out there.

Ironically enough, Toyota axles are right about the same diameter as a Dana 60 and a good number of other axles out there. The common Dodge part number #P4120074, about $12 per box, 1 pair in each box, which you can order through your local Dodge/Mopar dealer. You’ll need two boxes.

Some people have complained they aren’t “strong enough.” They are about a 1/4” thick and are as strong as any other perch out there. Bending them is probably do to excessive horsepower and lack of traction control (see Axle Wrap later in the article).

Proffitts Cruisers also makes a good spring perch that is about $30 a pair with three different holes drilled in them so you can move your axle further forward or backward according to how much wheel base you want.

If you consider some of the Fords out there that you sometimes see with big lift blocks put between the spring and the axle, you can see how increasing the height of your perch can also increase your lift. But this is at the cost of possible spring wrap (see section later in article). Ideally, if you do not want to run a traction bar, and you are trying to keep your lift as small as possible, use the most “shallow” perches you can find. Both Proffitts and the Dodge perches are pretty much as shallow as can be. They will also work with any variation of Cruiser spring on any Cruiser axle. The Dodge perches are a bit narrow for FJ60 springs, but I’ve used them on 60’s with no problems.

Because of where the passenger side front perch will need to be, you will need to grind out some of the inside side of the perch to have it fit. You should grind enough so that the perch should sit pretty much 100% level. On FJ55 models, though in every other instance they are the same axle as a FJ40, there is a little plate that is designed to keep the u-bolts in place in the stock position. You’ll have to grind those off too. FJ60s have a metal ubolt hanger because they use unique, square u-bolt in the front. Some people have used these as perches for their spring overs with varying degrees of sucess. They are strong enough to hold the hold the weight, however they are not long enough to adaquately prevent axle wrap since it is only a 2" x 2" square. You might be able to use them if using a traction bar, but it is not recommended. You can also only use these if you are not cutting and turning or if you plan to reuse the pads in the Spring Over position, inverted, as seen in the photos below. This is a good way to get around having to bend the front, inner u-bolt if you cut and turn your front housing.

Diff spring Perchs
http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61929.jpg

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61931.jpg


Bent u bolt
http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61934.jpg

When you weld your perches on, you want bare metal touching bare metal when the perches rest on the axles, so you will get a better weld. The perch should stay level even if turning as much as 18 degrees. If that is the case, you will need to do more grinding on the inside of your axle perch.

[Reddo]

Traction Bars and Axle Wrap

Something about the spring over axle setup makes axle wrap a much bigger issue than with a spring under setup. Axle wrap is when your pinion rotates up or down when you give the engine gas, which makes it much easier to break u-joints, driveshafts, pinions, etc. Also, as soon as you add larger horsepower engines to your truck (V8’s and such) it also makes axle wrap much more possible. You can counter act axle wrap a few ways: stiffer springs, longer perches, or a traction bar.

Stiffer springs are good but have other effects (like a stiff ride) so are not always the best option. Longer spring perches are a poor way to counteract axle wrap in my opinion, and gives the perches potential to bend. The only real way to counteract axle wrap is to use a traction bar. Traction bars are basically devices that allow your axle to pivot up and down as the axle requires for articulation and general suspension use, but does not allow the axle to “rotate” back and forth. You can either make and install a traction bar, buy one and install it yourself, or have a reputable shop build and install it. In any case, there is no “uniform” setup for them, and in each case they are generally “custom” and will need to be welded on. Ih8mud.com (http://Ih8mud.com) has a lot of information about traction bars if you search around.

Here are some good examples:

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61936.jpg

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61937.jpg

[Reddo]

Cutting and Turning
Overview:

Cutting and turning is probably the most difficult and most “feared” aspect of a spring over. But in reality, if done correctly, it is not that hard at all, and I believe any rig lifted over 5” should have it done, regardless of whether it is sprung over or under. It provides such a big advantage, especially in the case of a spring over, and since you are already there so you might as well do it right the first time.

**If you are thinking of doing a Shackle reversal do the shackle reversal BEFORE you take measurements for your cut and turn.
__________________________

A good, unofficial description of cutting and turning is basically: "a way to correct your steering on your front axle because you are rotating your pinion up toward your transfer case."

Because you are lifting your rig so much, it will create fairly "extreme" front axle angles if you do not cut and turn. Here is a photo of an axle before cutting and turning - you will see the front pinion output is level - exiting at 90 degrees. Because you are lifting the rig so high, you want to rotate the pinion up, out of the way of rocks, and up, towards to the transfer case front output, to get a better u-joint angle. Otherwise it can bind and cause something to break.

A front axle, sprung over, before cutting and turning, with the weight of the
vehicle sitting on the front axle using jack stands:

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61938.jpg


First, take your measurements:
First, you want to take your measurements of where you want your axle to point. Before you weld on the front perches, you want to place the weight of the vehicle on the front axle as seen in the photo above with u-bolts bolted up loosely, mostly for safety. Then, using a floor jack, push the pinion up so that it points at your transfer case output. Use an angle finder to figure out how many degrees of difference you have changed it. It does not matter where you take your angle, as long as you use the same place for all measurements:

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61939.jpg


For Steering and Caster measurements:
The OEM caster (steering) degree point are a good place to start and reference as "zero," whether the angle finder reads that or not. Ideally, especially when going to larger tires, you want to increase your steering arm angle (move the end of the arm higher than it was before) about 4-6 degrees. This makes steering easier and creates less wandering. Therefore, you will need to add about 4-6 degrees to whatever your pinion angle is rotated at. For example, if you rotate 14 degree up for pinion angle, you will need to add another 4 degree so your total rotation will be 18-20 degrees. When you do the actual rotation this will all make sense....

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61940.jpg

[Reddo]

C&T in a vise or on the rig?
Cutting and turning can be done in a vise or in a jig, or it can be done by simply bolting your whole axle to the front springs tightly, and doing it while on the truck.

Actually Cutting:
To cut and turn, first break down the knuckles to their bare housings. When you rebuild it, you should replace the seals and bearings while you are in there. You want to break them down because it’s easier to “turn” the knuckles when they are bare (those two large holes), and because of the heat your axle will experience when being welded back up could potentially melt your inner axle seal and cause it to leak, which will force you to have to tear it down again later.

Next, cut the axle just a hair inside of the OEM weld:
http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61942.jpg

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61941.jpg

You want to cut about 1/4" wide and you should visibly see the line between the outer and inner axle sleeves. In the photo above, the inner sleeve is red, while the outer is black. Do not cut too deep, the outer sleeve is exactly 6mm wide. The trick is to cut consistently 1/4" (6mm) deep completely around the outer perimeter which is why a pipe cutter does such a good job cutting and turning. (actual cutaway photo courtesy Jack Rice)

Turning:
Here is an example of good leverage to turn the housing. Because a new front axle rebuilt kit is recommended (and most come with new trunion/steering bearings), simply use your old bearing races to protect the housing from damage while using the pipe to turn.

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61946.jpg

Here you can see the bearing races, kept in place to turn the housing. You can also see where the axle was cut and turned:

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61944.jpg

Once down to the bare housing, you can use a variety of devices to “cut.” The most popular one is a large pipe cutter, but you have to grind down the old welds and bump stops before you can use it. It does make the nicest and cleanest cut, though. You can also use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, and simply widen the cut later with a grinding wheel.

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61945.jpg

Another example of a good cut with an angle grinder:

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61943.jpg

You want to go about a hair or two deeper than 1/4” because that is the thickness of the outer axle. The knuckle housing is sleeved into the axle, so there is an inner and outer layer, with the only thing keeping them together being the visible OEM weld at the end of the housing.

Then weld it all up, bolt it back under the truck, and put the axle back together!

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61947.jpg

[Reddo]

Drive Shafts

Driveshafts are (obviously) the round shafts that allow for power to transfer to your front and rear axles. They play a very important role in any 4wd, and of course are especially important with your SOA. There is not a whole lot to worry about except that if you don't get it right, you will have some vibration.

One of the main reasons you point your pinions up is for the sake of your driveshafts. I do not have a whole lot of experience with spring over conversions on 40’s and other short wheel base (SWB) trucks, but on a long wheel base (LWB) truck (a 55, 60, 45,etc), at least in the rear, if you rotate your pinion up (there is no real reason not to), you should be fine reusing your driveshaft. It is common knowledge that if your axle angle and your transfer case output angles are not identical, then you will have some vibration. This is true in some cases but for some reason in an FJ60, when you rotate your rear pinion up and weld it up that way, you do not get rear driveshaft vibration.

However, if you do have fairly larger differences in pinion angle to transfer case output angle, the common cure is to use a CV joint. CV joints are abundant in all sorts of vehicles. If you are using your OEM Toyota transfer case and axles, an excellent CV joint to use is a early FJ60 (same CV joint) mated into your Toyota shaft. All Toyotas use a 2.5" driveshaft, and there are several Spicer and Detroit drivshafts that can be mated into a Toyota shaft. Regardless, if you need a driveshaft it will have to be custom.

One neat little trick for the fronts of 40’s, 55’s, and 60’s, is that because all Cruisers used the same diameter shaft tube, and at least have the same size “pilot” (the ring in the middle of the flange on your driveshafts, pinion flanges, and t-case flanges), you can use the early FJ60 CV (which is almost identical to that of an earlier 60 series) to extend your driveshaft and get the benefit of a CV joint in your shaft.

On a late 60 spring over, a CV joint from an earlier model, welded into your later shaft, is the perfect length needed to bolt it in. You will not have to notch your cross member, and you will not need a long slip joint in this scenario, unless you are building a 60 with extreme articulation.

CV joints are actually useful items that allow you to achieve less vibration and work through some tricky spots with driveshafts. There are custom driveshaft shops in just about every major city in the US. Usually it is a lot cheaper to have them shortened than to have them extended.

Anyone with good fabrication skills can whip up a driveshaft, but the key to driveshaft shops is they have balancing capabilities. On a trail rig, one thing you can get away with is making your own front driveshaft, as long as you have hubs that unlock. But it still isn’t recommended. In the rear, it is a must that you have your driveshaft balanced at a professional shop, if not completely built there. There are few companies that make high angle drivelines, for example, High Angle Driveline (www.highangledriveline.com). I personally do not think they are necessary in most applications except for serious off roaders with high articulation suspensions. Plus, aftermarket CVs are usually pretty expensive. I recommend using a good, cheap, used CV when necessary, and the Toyota CV joints are great.

very informative stuff mate... well done 8)

[4xgold0]

well done Reddo :o your 4b is an inspiration dude

[Reddo]

Brakes & Shackle Reversals

Brakes:

Braking is not something that is drastically changed with a SOA conversion. You should basically use the same brakes you had before, if they work well, and if you can. The only things you will really need are extended brake lines, just as you will need with any lift of a Cruiser. There are several options out there. Last time I did it, I pulled the flexible lines off a junk Cruiser and simply added them into my existing lines. It worked excellently, but just make sure you really torque them together and that your used brakelines are in good shape. All Toyotas generally use the same brake line, thread pitch, and depth. Both hard and flexibly brake lines are commonly available from most parts stores. Buy two and add them to your existing lines and you will not have to worry about brake lines again. ;D Personally, i took the lines out of my 1978 626 mazda which fitted straight in.

You can also use a good aftermarket brake line. For example, if you are willing to spend a few dollars more you can get a stainless, braided line that will work great

Shackle Reversal:

Shackle reversals have been around for ages and are widely discussed in terms of suspensions in general. This article is not going to extensively cover it but some people live by them and other people sometimes question how important they are when doing a SOA. If you would like more info about them, surf the tech section of Ih8mud.com (http://Ih8mud.com) where there is lots of info.

When the Land Cruiser Advanced Handling kit came out, shackle reversals became quite popular as they advertised "better handling." There are many people out there who swear by shackle reversals and won’t even consider a SOA without one. This is another “each and to his own.”

The biggest advantage to a shackle reversal is the increased angle of departure. Followed by the possibly better handling. For some trucks I think they would be a good idea, though, but they also involve some fabrication that must be very carefully measured, and your axle still needs to track straight when you are done.

**One thing to note though, is that if you do a shackle reversal, do it BEFORE you measure your front axle for a cut and turn, because a shackle reversal designed for a SOA rig will have different measurements than if it retains the stock shackle postion.

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/61962.jpg

that is some really good information there

i never knew how much was invovled in doing a SOA

[crankycruiser]

Jimmy................ u have way to much spare time to type that up :o

Nice job ;D

[Reddo]

Steering Setups

Because your leaf springs are now above your axles, you'll notice that your OEM steering will not work any more. There are two types of different steering setups to deal with this, and a bunch of different companies who make them. They are the high steer system, and a double steering arm system (sometimes called "crossover steering"). Unfortunately, steering is probably the biggest single expense of a spring over and will cost you at least $200-$700 depending on which setup you use.

Crossover Steering:
The older, more common, and less expensive setup is a “double arm.” This is either a modified factory steering arm, with another one cut in half and welded to the top of it, or one that is custom made from a cast unit. There are manufacturers sell forged versions for about $550 for one arm. The advantage of the double arm setup is that it mimics your factory steering setup as closely as possible in a spring over configuration, and allows you to retain your factory tie rod and drag link, making the $550 arm your only steering-related cost.

Its disadvantages is that it allows the tie rod to hang in front of your axle, so if you were on a tough stretch of trail and were to hit a rock, it could damage your steering. Likewise, because your springs are now above your axle, they do not offer the protection from rocks that your axle used to when they were below the axle. I have also heard of issues regarding relatively uneven forces exerted on the double arm causing steering knuckle studs to loosen, and if not checked often for looseness, can sheer off.

Here is a photo of a double arm that bolts to the top of the passenger side knuckle. It reuses your OEM steering linkage with no necessary midifications required:

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/62706.jpg

The more advantageous system, but unfortunately more expensive, is the high steer steering.
Sometimes referred to as “hy-steer,” it uses two custom arms that are usually CNC manchined, and places your entire steering linkage above the leaf springs, well out of the way of potential rocks.

http://nucite.net/isWext.php/3967/62707.jpg

[Twisty]

Nice work jimmy....lots of great info there!!!!

Hey Jim bob

I would like some info on your snorkel plz!!! ;)

[Reddo]

hmmmm im busy atm and this thread needs work lol, sooo i'll see what i can do

[Spike_Sierra]

well its actually my snorkle still ::)
its a dobson head on it, 40 bucks
its some 3 inch alum pipe i nabbed from school ::)
and its some pipe from purple pig 20 bucks

[crusr]

hey cobba,
can you get those photos back up.. dont seem to be able to see them.

[Reddo]

Well My last trac bar finally pulled out of its Mounting after a 4wding trip to Melbourne. It was a simple rod off the top of the diff to a mount. It had a rubber bushing at both ends and as the power was applied, the trac bar pulled back on mount till the rubber bushing locked up and stopped the axel wrap. However when i put longer shackles in the back it caused far more length from the trac bar (as it was moving a further distance and as a result, it fatigued the mount and broke. The new Trac bar that my awsome old man helped me out with ;D Go dad :P is a triangulare set up and looks as such. It has already bent because the inner bar wasn’t strong enough, and so far its not to bad. It does need to be refined but it works well atm. It looks like this...

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f151/jamesj2/DSCF0759.jpg

[Reddo]

The front has a shackle on it, but it doesn’t need it because the forward and aft movent is taken out by the slip joint, and the side to side movement is also taken out by the slip joint. But it looks cool lol, but i think we might drop it out and place a spherical ball in it. Just a matter of trial and error, and seeing what works and what dosnt. Sory bout the mud, but it was being tested in the dam, and gullies ;D

Front shackle

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f151/jamesj2/DSCF0761.jpg

Back shot

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f151/jamesj2/DSCF0763.jpg

[Reddo]

And finally, the lower arm is kicked off a few degrees because we used the original mounts, which are cooping fine, and even tho we were worried about it trying to push the whole bar across when one wheel heads up, hopefully the movement is marginal, and the bushing takes it out. We did have it up on one wheel and the trac bar was still relatively free, and moved around.


And thanks to the old man, who's knowledge and expertice is always inspiring ;D

[Reddo]

hey cobba,
can you get those photos back up.. dont seem to be able to see them.


yeah, i'll git to it jimmy, as i have a lil bit of spair time. Sorry bout that guys :-[

Looking good 8)

[Reddo]

Looking good 8)



Thanks mate. hehe had a msg from Nedly about tires, annnd im looking at some 35" pedds tomorrow. And hopefully, i can giit a loan to take them home again ;D

[.::lil-oscar::.]

News just in... The 40 will very soon be wearing new shoes.
35inch pedes were bought today w00t w00t.

[BushTuckerNed]

News just in... The 40 will very soon be wearing new shoes.
35inch pedes were bought today w00t w00t.

bout bloody time, those things were slicks :o

[.::lil-oscar::.]

News just in... The 40 will very soon be wearing new shoes.
35inch pedes were bought today w00t w00t.

bout bloody time, those things were slicks :o


What things?? You never saw it perform with the JT's ned :P. Jim will still manage to get it stuck with pedes just wait ;D.

[BushTuckerNed]

no doubt, i got mine stuck within the first 5 mins ;D

f@Rk yeah Jimmy thats the sh!t 8)

[Spike_Sierra]

new tyres look shit hot!!!

heaps of tread left, its a bargain.. wheel the fark out of it

[crankycruiser]

News just in... The 40 will very soon be wearing new shoes.
35inch pedes were bought today w00t w00t.

bout bloody time, those things were slicks :o


What things?? You never saw it perform with the JT's ned :P. Jim will still manage to get it stuck with pedes just wait ;D.


I seen it perform on them.... hang on i wouldnt call it performing :P

[.::lil-oscar::.]

Well pic has been taken. Jim tried putting it up here the other night but monthly was having some sort of issue so i'll do it for him....saves everyone having to wait days for him to next get on the net...and saves him having to struggle with dial up lol.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f151/jamesj2/test.jpg

My personal oppinion is...looking sweet, front could do with 36's, 40 needs a clean and a paint job ;D and looks a bit out of place in front of that house....considering jim's a farm boy and the 40 was originally bought as a paddock basher haha.

[Reddo]

tires are good, even tho they slow ya down a shit load. Handle the rd far beter than the JT2's, and make more noise. They love the mud 8) And it performed fine on the trekker thank you ray.....

[Reddo]

hehe thanks for posting a piccie bubby ;D And if you buy me Ring and Pinion for my birthday, i'll puy36's on it for you. Decided today to re-spray the 40, looking to have it done byyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy next week................... :P

[Reddo]

hehe well were right on track. I have almost finished fixing all the dents and cracks from a year and a half of following cranky and brenno through the bush. I counted 58 of em, and have so far, fixed 35 cracks in the paint. Deciding whether to go silver in acrylic, and or 2 pac mazda gold. we have most of the silver, but have to re-do the inside.....So we will have to see :P decicion will be left up to lil oscar ;D

[crankycruiser]

tires are good, even tho they slow ya down a shit load. Handle the rd far beter than the JT2's, and make more noise. They love the mud 8) And it performed fine on the trekker thank you ray.....


LOL, after u have used these in the bush u will think the same as me.....

[chevgrubb]

I've got plenty of canary yellow if ya want some jimmy!!!!!
lol

[.::lil-oscar::.]

I've got plenty of canary yellow if ya want some jimmy!!!!!
lol


Ewww grosss, no way in hell.

[twitch350chev]

hey jimmy deciding to respray it now, whys that, ya not stalling time r ya. have i got ya scared that i will beat ya.
cause my 350 and claws will shiiiiiiit all over ur cheese cutters and slow asss deisel hehe.
hope ya 40 looks good sprayed and cant wait to see it.

catch ya
twitchy

[Gojeep]

Pretty sure that trackbar will not hold up. Biggest problem apart from tube size and lack of bracing is the upper pivot is only in single shear on the axle. Must be in double shear to even stand a chance. There can be huge forces involved in this application.

[Reddo]

I've got plenty of canary yellow if ya want some jimmy!!!!!
lol


hehe thanks. but no thanks ;D Give me that bonnet, or answer your ph sometime........ :P i want it soon

[Reddo]

tires are good, even tho they slow ya down a shit load. Handle the rd far beter than the JT2's, and make more noise. They love the mud 8) And it performed fine on the trekker thank you ray.....


LOL, after u have used these in the bush u will think the same as me.....


Monday is good for me, soooo i think we can wheel the 40 on new tires :P

[Reddo]

Pretty sure that trackbar will not hold up. Biggest problem apart from tube size and lack of bracing is the upper pivot is only in single shear on the axle. Must be in double shear to even stand a chance. There can be huge forces involved in this application.


Dont quite follow, can you explain a little bit more please..

[Reddo]

hey jimmy deciding to respray it now, whys that, ya not stalling time r ya. have i got ya scared that i will beat ya.
cause my 350 and claws will shiiiiiiit all over ur cheese cutters and slow asss deisel hehe.
hope ya 40 looks good sprayed and cant wait to see it.

catch ya
twitchy


pfffft hehehehe get someone to look at the 350 of yours, because its scared of the mud. And my cheese cutters will eat your AT's alive ;D bring it owwwn hehehe

[Gojeep]

Single shear means that it is only supported on one side. Double shear is when supported on both. There is a lot of windup to control which has a lot of force. I have seen them actully rip over the whole housing!
Take a look here for some good designs.
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/ladbar/
Even a very strange one here.
http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/bambar/

[twitch350chev]

pfffft hehehehe get someone to look at the 350 of yours, because its scared of the mud. And my cheese cutters will eat your AT's alive ;D bring it owwwn hehehe


AT's ha that was funny well least there 12.5 wide what r urs??? 2.5 hehehehe, to late my 350 is back on track and ready 4 southport hehe. there was mud in my carbie and blocked the jets bla bla bla. so have to silicon up my filter so shit dont get in.
well any time boy i will be waitin 4 u on and off the track hehe.

[Reddo]

okay, got a couple of pics comming. this is her so far.

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/tom286/DSCF2157.sized.jpg

[crankycruiser]

looks pritty kewl so far..

wat colour is it?? silver?

have ya painted the side yet?

[Reddo]

yeah its all done. the bonnet is real 'silver' but the gold also has a heap of silver in it, so in some lights it reflects it as such. :D glad to have it out and about. :P

[crankycruiser]

Looks the part anyway..

I like the front.. should do it all tha colour :D

[tom_286]

AWSOME jimmy! thats all i can say, just AWSOME!

[Reddo]

Looks the part anyway..

I like the front.. should do it all tha colour :D


hahaha, she loves it. its better than before, but i know its going to be wrecked in one weekend with you :-[

[Reddo]

AWSOME jimmy! thats all i can say, just AWSOME!


thanks tom 8)

[crusr]

cmon jimmy more pics please.. side shots etc.

[Reddo]

cmon jimmy more pics please.. side shots etc.


yepo, i'll take a few more tomorrow for ya's. sorry bout that :D

[BushBoy]

top stuff fella, she's a great lookin 40 8)

[crankycruiser]

Where are the rest of the pics???

[Reddo]

Okay, new pics are on the way. Thanks for up-loading them Tom ;D your a real pal :P

[boof]

Nice looking 40 mate love the silver

[Reddo]

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/album669/DSCF2232.sized.jpg


http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/album669/DSCF2242.sized.jpg

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/album669/DSCF2244.sized.jpg

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/album669/DSCF2245.sized.jpg

http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/album669/DSCF2265.sized.jpg

[crankycruiser]

Awwww isnt it cute :-*



Looks good tho Jimmy.. nice work ;D

[Reddo]

well, thank ya very muchly :P would of like a bit more time to make it better, but i needed it back for work lol. :P

[BushTuckerNed]

paint your rims ;D

[Reddo]

paint your rims ;D


lol, cant keep everyone happy can i :-* :P ;D

[tom_286]

they're some well hoasted pics jimmy! very nice looking 40 i must say, you've done an awsome job.

[REDROCKET]

sweet looking rig man ;D Love it, love it i do. I'm building 1 up atm. V slowly i might add. (Just a bare chassis in primer atm) If i get a chance i'll take a few pic's and post em up for a look!

[danny boy]

look what a good run over with the paint brush does for the old girl it looks good

[Disco_Alex]

looks good jim bob have to go 4 a wheel soon :D