Okay guys here is a pictorial diary of my quest to build my own version of the Ulimate Camping trailer. It was someting that I have taken on some 16months ago and I am still going.

I have access to a mates workshop and can only work each week on Saturday morning so hence the timeline to complete. I will start from the beginning and over the next few nights complete the build description to where I am today....I hope you all enjoy the read and feel free to comment.

THE CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1.jpg

Pic.1: The basic frame all cut and ready for welding

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2.jpg

Pic.2: Welding the frame....bloody duragal...spits everywhere when welding.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3.jpg

Pic.3: Independent suspension being setup and squared ready for welding.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4.jpg

Pic. 4: Suspension checks for squareness.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_5.jpg

Pic. 5: Side view of swing arms.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_6.jpg

Pic. 6: Swing arms welded in place and all work okay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_7.jpg

Pic.7: Swing arms installed after painting and trailer on its wheels.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_8.jpg


Pic.8: Side view of trailer suspension complete with removable stub axles, parrallel bearings and electric brake assembly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_9.jpg

Pic.9: Weld on Tregg hitch, reciever and locking pin before welding.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_10.jpg

Pic.10: Tregg hitch welded in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_11.jpg

Pic 11: Completed trailer chassis on its wheels and swing away jockey wheel.

TO BE CONTINUED........... ;D

Pic.2: Welding the frame....bloody duragal...spits everywhere when welding.




Good to see you've got shorts on to protect you from the spits!! ;D

Noice one. Got to make me one of them one day.... need a shed first.

that is a really neat effort so far keep up the good work

That is a top looking job mate. keep up the good work

Me Again Gang,

Here is the next piece in the puzzle...........Stuart


MAIN BODY FRAME

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1a.jpg

Pic.1: The very beginning of the steel frame for the body, this will be skinned by aluminium.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2a.jpg

Pic.2: A view from the rear of the trailer looking through the rear door of the trailer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3a.jpg

Pic.3: The U-Shaped lounge frame on the right side of the trailer viewed from the rear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4a.jpg

Pic.4: Aerial view of what is described in pic 3.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_5a.jpg

Pic.5: Aerial view of the table leg socket and support frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_6a.jpg

Pic.6: Side view of the fridge frame, bench and stove frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_7a.jpg

Pic.7: View of the sink sitting in position and gas bottle locker position. The 3 Way fridge will be fitted in the spot to the right of the gas bottle and the gas stove in the alcove frame to the left of the sink.


TO BE CONTINUED...... ::)

mate looks' prettygood so far, can't wait to see the finished product!!!!

Well done. :D :D Looks like a top job. When can i place an order ;)

Pretty impressive. 8)

cant wait to see the finished version : :

very impressive, top workmanship too, will be keeping an eye on this, im interested in doing something similar

nice looking job, what do you think the final weight will be.

Great stuff!!! Did you make the suspension arms yourself or can you buy them somewhere?
Anthony

Okay Gang,

Here is my update number 3. The only item I have purchased to date is the swing arm for the independent suspension and all else has been made from scratch.....yipee! Thanks for all the encouragement as well guys.

Stuart

WHEEL ARCHES

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4b.jpg

Pic.1: Wheel arch framework shaped and welded in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3b.jpg

Pic. 2: Side view of wheel arch.

REAR BUMPER / COMBINATION STEP

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_5b.jpg

Pic.1: Shows the beginning of the framework for the rear bumper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_6b.jpg

Pic. 2: Shows the rear bumper right side ready for shaping to suit rear tyre carrier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_7b.jpg

Pic. 3: The left side with angled underside for clearance on steep exits.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_8b.jpg

Pic. 4: The right side after shaping of framework to suit diameter of rear tyre when fitted to the rear tyre carrier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_9b.jpg

Pic. 5: The completed rear bumper framework.

REAR WHEEL CARRIER

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2b.jpg

Pic.1: Shows the wheel carrier welded together and held in place for fitment to the trailer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1b.jpg

Pic. 2: Shows the wheel carrier and integrated into the rear bumper.

TELESCOPIC STABILISER LEGS

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_11b.jpg

Pic.1: Shows the legs in support position.

PART 3 COMPLETED SETUP

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_10b.jpg

Pic. 1: The rear/bumper with tyre on carrier and stabiliser legs.

i'm going to love this thing, well done (so far), did you draw/buy a set of plans for this?, looking foward to the finished product :D

Hey, I've just bought a 7X5 trailer that's been fitted out for camping. It's got a steel and canvas canopy with an annex, gas bottles, water tanks , etc. I'm picking it up tomorrow morning so I'll post some pics. It's a home made jobby, but's it's perfect for what we need.

I'll be modifying it for off road use over the next few months. I like your suspension set up, and wouldn't mind matching the wheels on the Pajero to the trailer. ATM it has a (low to the ground) solid axel and what looks like Toyota corolla wheels. (small) Also, I'd like to swap the standard coupling for a treg hitch.

Do you know where I can get a cheap caravan 3 way fridge? I looked at (portable) Engles etc at a camping shop, and I'm hoping I could get something better and cheaper.

Anyway, I'll post my own build up thread soon, so people can watch the evolution of this trailer into what I recko will be a great rig. My brother in law is a cabnet maker, so I'll be bribing him with 4x for some materials and skills for the interior. Wont hijack your thread any further, but thanks for some great pics and tech stuff here.

Just a Question on the swingarm suspension, did you build it yourself, or can it be purchased. if you built it your self, and chance of getting some basic plans on it, including what type of materials you used, and costs.

Makes me wish I could weld better. :'(

i'm going to love this thing, well done (so far), did you draw/buy a set of plans for this?, looking foward to the finished product :D


Hi There,

The plans were deifnately not off the shelf. I have based my camper trailer on the current camper on offer at Ultimate Campers from Batemans Bay as I really like them but didn't like the idea of shelling out $40K plus for one.

Besides that I was looking for a challenge.......lol. I did get alook at a few Ultimate Campers with tape measure in hand and have based my unit on those measurements. I then went about drawing up my chassis on CAD and got that right and then everything went from there.

Stuart M.

Makes me wish I could weld better. :'(


Hey Cam,

Welding is only a matter of practice, tutition and a reasonable kit. I am a sparky by trade and learnt the basics from an old hand in a couple of hours. His techniques were easy to understand and I can now lay down solid weld lines with ease.

I am using a MIG and have welded both steel, gal steel and aluminium with it using the appropriate gas and wire of course. I can weld vertical and horizontal and love welding. Like anything it is easy when you no how and like all things that end well you will find that good preparation is the key to sucess.

I have also welded with gasless wire and find it good in windy conditions. I am sure there are professional welders on the forum that could chime in and drop there hints rather than listen to a hack like me....lol... ::)

Regards,

Stuart M.

Just a Question on the swingarm suspension, did you build it yourself, or can it be purchased. if you built it your self, and chance of getting some basic plans on it, including what type of materials you used, and costs.


Hi Mud,

The swing arms I bought from the guy who originally came up with the Sugar Glider suspension in Australia....he was in Melbourne and is now defunct. If I new what I new now I wouldn't hesistate at having a go at building them. I believe that there are a couple of camper trailer manufacturers that build and sell them to the public raw. I would expect to cough up around $700 to 1000 for them.

Stuart M

Hey, I've just bought a 7X5 trailer that's been fitted out for camping. It's got a steel and canvas canopy with an annex, gas bottles, water tanks , etc. I'm picking it up tomorrow morning so I'll post some pics. It's a home made jobby, but's it's perfect for what we need.

I'll be modifying it for off road use over the next few months. I like your suspension set up, and wouldn't mind matching the wheels on the Pajero to the trailer. ATM it has a (low to the ground) solid axel and what looks like Toyota corolla wheels. (small) Also, I'd like to swap the standard coupling for a treg hitch.

Do you know where I can get a cheap caravan 3 way fridge? I looked at (portable) Engles etc at a camping shop, and I'm hoping I could get something better and cheaper.

Anyway, I'll post my own build up thread soon, so people can watch the evolution of this trailer into what I recko will be a great rig. My brother in law is a cabnet maker, so I'll be bribing him with 4x for some materials and skills for the interior. Wont hijack your thread any further, but thanks for some great pics and tech stuff here.



Hey Barnsey,

The Treg Hitches are available through Trigg Bros in South OZ http://www.triggbrs.com.au/contact_us.html

The 3 Way fridge I am using is Electrolux and the best price I found for mine was through guys in QLD including shipping.

There are some 3 way fridges available though repco and I can't vouch for there quality but others probably could.

Stuart M

should be interesting to see the final outcome and price see how overpriced mainstream items are

nice looking job, what do you think the final weight will be.


Brutal,

Not sure yet....but I am aiming to be lighter than the Ultimate which weighs in around 750kgs TARE....as there body, lid and nose cone is made from fibreglass and mine is made from steel and aluminum.

Stuart M

What material are you going to use for a floor? It looks like it is going to be a lot of fun fitting it and you may have to add yet more supports wont you inside those cupboards etc to support the edges?
It will be strong thats one thing as it looks like a jungle jim at the moment ;)

that looks good!! great job!! i want to build a small off-road trailer...... but not a camper.... i'm not that good...... i'm looking at something to throw all the gear into and drag through the bush. I'm kinda stuck for suspension ideas...... keep up the good work!! Send the pics and a story into the mag whne ya done.... they might just include it

Ok I am realy jelous for 4 reasons.

1. My welding needs Practice (only have a stick welder)
2. I havent got access to or can aford to buy a mig
3. I dont have time to build my 7x5 in to my camping trailer
4. I dont have the funds to do it either

Other than that it looks great keep up the good work.

Looks Great
It,s good to see that you arn't afraid to have a go yourself.

Mate top job carn't wait to see the end product.should look shit hot!
Cheers
Rat

Having built a couple of trailers to date ...... (initially a Metal Fab / Welder by trade and current off road trailer going through its second set of mods and complete repaint etc) weight of the trailer creeps up very quickly. At present i am at 430kg and it has nowhere near the amount of frame work or material size as yours. But when you add water tanks and the like you may end up around the 1100+ mark. But hey, its a real nice job and looking good. If the quality carries all the way through, it will be an impressive looking unit.

Okay Gang,

Here is my update number 3. The only item I have purchased to date is the swing arm for the independent suspension and all else has been made from scratch.....yipee! Thanks for all the encouragement as well guys.

Stuart

Great job so far I envy your expertise :)

WHEEL ARCHES

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4b.jpg

Pic.1: Wheel arch framework shaped and welded in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3b.jpg

Pic. 2: Side view of wheel arch.

REAR BUMPER / COMBINATION STEP

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_5b.jpg

Pic.1: Shows the beginning of the framework for the rear bumper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_6b.jpg

Pic. 2: Shows the rear bumper right side ready for shaping to suit rear tyre carrier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_7b.jpg

Pic. 3: The left side with angled underside for clearance on steep exits.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_8b.jpg

Pic. 4: The right side after shaping of framework to suit diameter of rear tyre when fitted to the rear tyre carrier.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_9b.jpg

Pic. 5: The completed rear bumper framework.

REAR WHEEL CARRIER

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2b.jpg

Pic.1: Shows the wheel carrier welded together and held in place for fitment to the trailer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1b.jpg

Pic. 2: Shows the wheel carrier and integrated into the rear bumper.

TELESCOPIC STABILISER LEGS

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_11b.jpg

Pic.1: Shows the legs in support position.

PART 3 COMPLETED SETUP

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_10b.jpg

Pic. 1: The rear/bumper with tyre on carrier and stabiliser legs.

[quote author=Barnsey
Hey Barnsey,

The Treg Hitches are available through Trigg Bros in South OZ http://www.triggbrs.com.au/contact_us.html

The 3 Way fridge I am using is Electrolux and the best price I found for mine was through guys in QLD including shipping.

There are some 3 way fridges available though repco and I can't vouch for there quality but others probably could.

Stuart M




Thanks for the link. Buying a second hand electrolux 3 way (in a few pays time) for $350 from the same van yard I got the trailer from. Picked mine up today, and I'm very happy with it. The canvas work it excellent. Cant wait to take it on it's maiden voyage.

NEXT UPDATE

LID which also opens to be the main bed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_7c.jpg

Pic.1: This is my first go at the lid and I have since decided I don't like the design and will probably change.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_8c.jpg

Pic. 2: Completed lid sitting on the main body of the trailer.

NOSE CONE

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1c.jpg

Pic. 1: I decided I wanted to try and match the same shape of the curved nose cone as the Ultimate trailer......and as you'll find out it has become a challenge. Here you can see the base frame of the nose cone taking shape.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2c.jpg

Pic. 2: I learnt very quickly that I had to think 2 & 3 dimensional and build in 1 dimension and try and rid myself of compound curves. Here you can see I was trying to form the shape to take measurements with which I graphed, transferred to CAD and then had 2 pieces laser cut to form the base shape.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3c.jpg

Pic. 3: Here you can see those two laser cut sections welded into place and the start of the lower part of the nose cone.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4c.jpg

Pic. 4: I have skipped a fair few steps to arrive at this stage in the development of the nose cone and if you haven't guessed it yet I am also trying to have gull wing doors in the nose cone integrated into the design.......man I bite off a lot!!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_6c.jpg

Pic. 5: Here you can spot the folded lip welded in all the way around the door opening so as to create part of the door seal.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_5c.jpg

Pic. 6: I have made up a door frame and dropped it in place to see what it would look like. This is where the wheels fall off my plans to have gull wing doors as I decide that there are to many areas that will be a bitch to seal and match together between gull wing door and nose cone............ahhhhhhh!!!

ON THE CAR

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_10c.jpg

Pic. 1: At this point I decided I needed some cheering up so I hooked the rig to the rear of the car to see how it would look. I tell you I was bloody excited to see it sitting spot on behind my Toyo.....yeah baby! Nearly a years work on Saturday mornings to get to this stage.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_11c.jpg

Pic. 2: Check out my masterpiece....I am so pumped....I look like I got some of it right.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_9c.jpg

Pic. 3: Great turning circle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_12c.jpg

Pic. 4: Daylight shot of the running gear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_13c.jpg

Pic. 5: Close up of the swing arm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_14c.jpg

Pic. 6: Main hitch point complete with modified hand brake assembly and swing up jockey wheel.

NEXT UPDATE TOMMORROW......

it's coming together nicely, I wish you luck in trying to be 750kg unloaded as there is a lot of steel in that, also as said before you need to consider the weight of full water tanks, fridges, canvas, sheeting, flooring, cupboards etc, good luck, I to will think it will be around the 1T mark, but maybe wrong.
So I guess with it being 1 years worth of saturday mornings you aren't likely to take orders. but at least you will get a lot of satisfaction out of doing it yourself. :D

the nose cone looks very tricky, i bet there was a lot of mucking about fabricating that. looks like youve got it all under control. great job so far

it's coming together nicely, I wish you luck in trying to be 750kg unloaded as there is a lot of steel in that, also as said before you need to consider the weight of full water tanks, fridges, canvas, sheeting, flooring, cupboards etc, good luck, I to will think it will be around the 1T mark, but maybe wrong.
So I guess with it being 1 years worth of saturday mornings you aren't likely to take orders. but at least you will get a lot of satisfaction out of doing it yourself. :D


Hey There 2 Brutal,

I am on target regarding getting the weight under 750kgs.....as the steel tube is a known weight per metre both big and small and I have performed some rough calcs before and during construction. I also new the weight of swing arms etc before attaching.

I already have items like 3 Way fridges, canvas etc and know these weights. The internal fitout will be mostly aluminium and external skin will be aluminium and if all goes well I should clip the tag at under the targeted tare weight.

I can only continue to monitor what I ad but at the end of the day the completed project will have to go over the weigh bridge and then we will all know.

Thanks for the encouragement...

Stuart M.

Stuart...got to tell you thats looking real slick..have done a few attempts at campers myself but are not in your league...
can see a lot of thought has gone into design before you started..seems to be some concern over weight...WHO bloody cares as long as you are happy keep it going bloke...
there are a lot of us waiting in anticipation for the end product..

the nose cone looks very tricky, i bet there was a lot of mucking about fabricating that. looks like youve got it all under control. great job so far


Hey Madmac,

I nearly went MAD creating this nose cone.....but as stated in the thread regarding the nose cone I couldn't get it to seal well around the gull wing doors....so I went and had a bunch of bourbons and pondered my next move. I will post the outcome tommorrow night.

Stay tuned, Same bat channel, Same bat time... ;D

Hopefully it is under control..... ::)

Thanks for the kind words.
Stuart

Stuart...got to tell you thats looking real slick..have done a few attempts at campers myself but are not in your league...
can see a lot of thought has gone into design before you started..seems to be some concern over weight...WHO bloody cares as long as you are happy keep it going bloke...
there are a lot of us waiting in anticipation for the end product..


Thanks Frog......I am certainly happy with what I have created thus far. Just gotta keep it going....

Stuart M.

One word at4wd....................WOW

Cheers Dazz

Hi
The trailer/camper looks great so far. Good on ya for doing it all yourself. At the end of the exercise I (and I'm sure others) would be interested in comparing what you have spent to build this rig and the cost of a commercially built one. Don't forget to maintain an estimate of your time spent buying materials and building the camper.
I do have one concern. Your stabiliser legs appear to be a fixed length. All of us who have been camping know that virtually no site, even in a caravan park, is perfectly level and the stabiliser legs need to be of infinitely variable length. Have you considered this problem yet?

Doc

Hi
The trailer/camper looks great so far. Good on ya for doing it all yourself. At the end of the exercise I (and I'm sure others) would be interested in comparing what you have spent to build this rig and the cost of a commercially built one. Don't forget to maintain an estimate of your time spent buying materials and building the camper.
I do have one concern. Your stabiliser legs appear to be a fixed length. All of us who have been camping know that virtually no site, even in a caravan park, is perfectly level and the stabiliser legs need to be of infinitely variable length. Have you considered this problem yet?

Doc


Hey Doc,

Thanks for your kind words and regarding your question about the stabiliser legs......I have made them telescopic and fully adjustable and if you look closely at some of the pics you will see some removable pins about half way done the leg.

I will post a more detailed pic tonight showing it front on with all the holes down the leg to make it adjustable. Thanks for the prompt on design though. I am keeping track of material cost and labour expended and will advise at the end.

Regards,

Stuart

PS. Are you a real Doc?

so I went and had a bunch of bourbons and pondered my next move. I will post the outcome tommorrow night.good old bourbon, the solution to all man kinds problems, works for me too ;D ;D

I can't believe that you drink bourbon, you need to swap religon's and get onto the rumbos'

Hi All,

UPDATE NO.4

NOSE CONE # PART 2- OUT WITH THE ANGLE GRINDER

So after many bourbons I decide to take ten steps backward on my project and grab the angle grinder and cut up the nose cone frame that I had spent some much time creating. I did this as I felt the gull wing doors were just to much of a problem and were proving to be beyond my skills.

What I decided to do was create a nose cone frame with the same shape as before but have a two hatch design that opened like a boot on either side of a fixed central member when viewed from the front.

The upside of this design is that I feel I can shove alot more in a boot style design than if I had gull wing doors. The downside of the design would be getting stuff from the bottom and lifting heavy items into the nose cone. Another bonus when changing the frame was that I would have dropped some weight off the total package and would have less to go wrong.

But like all designs everything is a compromise and I felt that I would be far better off with this hatch arrangement and be confident of being able to seal the hatch lips.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3d.jpg

Pic. 1: Here you see the frame described above with the two hatch openings.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2d.jpg

Pic. 2: Front view

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1d.jpg

Pic. 3: Side View


NEXT UPDATE ....SKINNING THE TRAILER WITH ALUMINIUM

coming along very well...... looks great!!

even better if you've lost some weight on the drawbar as it will save extra load on the towbar, ie. ball weight.
the lighter the trailer also the more gear you can carry to it recommended load capacity

PS. Are you a real Doc?


Hi Stuart
Yes I'm a real Doc. Got my PhD (Doctor of Philosophy) in Applied Physics/Information Technology awarded in September last year. So I'm more of a mad scientist and definitely not a medical doctor. I leave all the medical stuff to my wife, she is a Pharmacist.

The new nose will make it much harder to load as you say. Not just the weight but just reaching back that far. I would have thought having the sides swing open would have been easier and better for putting things in and out though?

The new nose will make it much harder to load as you say. Not just the weight but just reaching back that far. I would have thought having the sides swing open would have been easier and better for putting things in and out though?



Hey Go Jeep,

I here what you are saying but it was just to hard to build and keep the shape I wanted and being that I have 2 curves

(a) One curve sweeping over the front
(b) One curve sweeping around the side

It was becoming more and more out of my league so I bit the bullet and comprimised. I did think about the outcome alot before doing the final chop and I am happy.

I did also consider the heavy items and made the hatches large enough to jump into to load stuff in and out if need be. I am also incorporatingd a small step around the front of the nose to aid in stepping off the ground and into the nose. The step will be flush and unobtrusive.

I will also be looking at adding in some side access hatches once I skin the sides and if they can be added without causing to many sealing problems I may add one.

I suppose overall I could have made the nose more square and facetted but really wanted the curved nose for many reasons and besides if none of it works out I could always build another......not... ::)

Hey Go Jeep...I appreciate the input ;D

Regards,

Stuart.

even better if you've lost some weight on the drawbar as it will save extra load on the towbar, ie. ball weight.
the lighter the trailer also the more gear you can carry to it recommended load capacity


Hi 2 Brutal,

I have tried to design the trailer like a see saw..ie add some weight to the front I have to try and counter with weight at the rear. So far I have a very balanced trailer and allowing for weight added after TARE it will provide enough... I hope..... weight on the towball.

I will also have the under trailer water tank rear of the axle to consider when calculating the finished mass for and after of the sweet spot.

Its all good fun this trailer building and I have learnt so much from talking and listening to everyones viewpoint. I will have a bunch to impart around that first campfire when it finally makes it out of the workshop and up that first track to that magic camp spot... 8)

Regards,

Stuart

PS. Are you a real Doc?


Hi Stuart
Yes I'm a real Doc. Got my PhD (Doctor of Philosophy) in Applied Physics/Information Technology awarded in September last year. So I'm more of a mad scientist and definitely not a medical doctor. I leave all the medical stuff to my wife, she is a Pharmacist.


Hey Doc,

Being a 'Mad Scientist' you will fit right in around this forum... ;D

Stuart

Your trailer loks magnificent and like everyone else, want to see it finished, know the costs and then see if you make them for a living hey??

One thought about the trailer, people are worried about your towball weights etc, and you have mentioned about your water tank. Maybe, if you havent thought already about it, fit it so that you can adjust it along the length a bit so once it is all loaded up with gear etc, you can adjust and then weld it in place like that then it will all be nicely fine tuned? Or just tell me to get back in my hole.

Hi the camper is looking good. When you say it should be lighter because you have made it out of steel and alloy. Tell me if im wrong but wouldn’t fiberglass be lighter. My first reason for saying this is fiberglass is molded so it dose not need any framing to support the walls ect. my second reason is that because its a trailer not a boat the glass dose not need to be thick because it dose not get the pounding of the water. i have a little camper that made out of fiberglass and it weighs bugger all 280kg, but its nothing like what you are building.
cheers

Your trailer loks magnificent and like everyone else, want to see it finished, know the costs and then see if you make them for a living hey??

One thought about the trailer, people are worried about your towball weights etc, and you have mentioned about your water tank. Maybe, if you havent thought already about it, fit it so that you can adjust it along the length a bit so once it is all loaded up with gear etc, you can adjust and then weld it in place like that then it will all be nicely fine tuned? Or just tell me to get back in my hole.



Hey howeller73,

There are a few worried about towball weight of my trailer and I am not one of them as I have given it my best shot at trying to ensure the weight throughout the trailer is evenly distributed.

Your idea of an adjustable water tank is a great one but unfortunately my chassis structure doesn't allow for a maximised water tank to move much.....Thats is that I want the biggest tank for the given amount of space between cross trailer chassis rails.

I can however add another tank infront of the suspension swing arms in another space similar to the rear tank should this be necessary for increasing tow ball weight.

Thanks for your input and no I would never tell any formum member to get back in there hole.... ;D

Regards,

Stuart.

Hi the camper is looking good. When you say it should be lighter because you have made it out of steel and alloy. Tell me if im wrong but wouldn’t fiberglass be lighter. My first reason for saying this is fiberglass is molded so it dose not need any framing to support the walls ect. my second reason is that because its a trailer not a boat the glass dose not need to be thick because it dose not get the pounding of the water. i have a little camper that made out of fiberglass and it weighs bugger all 280kg, but its nothing like what you are building.
cheers


Hi there 4runner2.8,

Thanks for the encouragement and constructive comments and I respond as follows:

Firstly let me point out that I base any of my weight comments on my comparision to a well known trailer that I am trying to replicate which is made out of fibreglass on a steel chassis and let me assure you it doesn't wiegh 280kgs......it does indeed have a frame and this is plywood buried within the fibreglass on some parts and fibreglass formed ribs elsewhere. This provides strength and rigidity and without these support structures it would be like a peice of paper without a fold.

I am no fibreglass expert but suggest that some fibreglass is moulded and some is hand laid or a combination of both and whilst the trailer you own is light at 280kgs, it has been my experience with boats for instance, that fibreglass versus alloy has substantial weight differences and the latter being lighter.

I would however suggest that an offroad trailer will cop vibration and stresses and needs to be strong and obviously the bigger the trailer and features the greater the mass and therefore the greater requirement for strength and longevity.

Anyway I am not making any claims on weight until she hits the weigh bridge.....and I hope my preperation provides the result I am after.

Regards,

Stuart.

Update No.5 Misc Pictures

I just thought I would throw in these couple of photos as one of the gang had asked whether I had made my stabiliser leg adjustable....see the pics below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3e.jpg

Pic No.1 Stabiliser Leg with removable pin.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2e.jpg

Pic No.2 Stabiliser Leg with removable pin.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1e.jpg

The above picture show my welding skills and how far they have come since starting this project. I really enjoy welding and working with metal and seeing the finished product.

Stuart.

:o You have skills, beaut weld.

Re the legs.

Is only the bottom part adjustable ?

If the top half is solid , wont it have the potential to snag offroad ?

Edit: ok , went back and saw some other piccies of the legs.

Do they slide in and out of square tube ?

So rather then a hinge type setup , or traditional windups , you just pull it out , turn it around 90 degrees , and slot them back in for travel ?

Re the legs.

Is only the bottom part adjustable ?

If the top half is solid , wont it have the potential to snag offroad ?

Edit: ok , went back and saw some other piccies of the legs.

Do they slide in and out of square tube ?

So rather then a hinge type setup , or traditional windups , you just pull it out , turn it around 90 degrees , and slot them back in for travel ?


Hey Flappan,

The legs are designed to be adjustable up and down as pictured and yes you are right the legs pull out, turn 90 degrees and slot back in for travelling. I haven't yet added some small brackets on the front face of the leg to serve the dual purpose of attaching lid support poles to and attaching a pin through to a receiver bracket mounted on the trailer when in the travelling psition.

Regards,

Stuart

Devils advocate.

Are they strong enough ?

Quite heavy trailer , assuming Canvas setup ahla Ultimate (over the side) , strong wind ?

Devils advocate.

Are they strong enough ?

Quite heavy trailer , assuming Canvas setup ahla Ultimate (over the side) , strong wind ?


Flappan,

You are keeping me on my toes....I reckon they should be right though......

Receiver tube = 4 mm wall
Top half of leg = 2mm wall
Bottom half of leg = 3mm wall

Also they don't actually take the whole total weight of the trailer as this is shared with the suspension etc. when the unit is setup and levelled.

Regards,

Stuart

Very impressed with your project and especially your welding. Can't wait to see the finished camper at which time I'll be placing my order for one!!!!

Great pics as well.

Mick

Stuart

Firstly, a very fine looking trailer there. Well done!! ;D ;D

Secondly, what size mig welder are you using? I am seriously thinking of buying a mig, but don't want to underdo myself by getting the 100A cheapy from around the corner. I was thinking maybe a 140A ish gas/gasless ISP. Would something like this achieve what you are doing? ???

Regards
Goldy

I'm building a camper, maining using 50X50X3 for the frame. I've got a 150amp mig and it does OK, I found the gasless wire not as good, tendered to kink a little and not as easy to use.

Goldy,
Take a look at the WIA welders.
Certainaly not the cheapest but very well built.
They have a good 150 amp mig and now a 175 amp one as well, both single phase with a 15amp plug.
The WIA 150 welds better than I do :(.
Oh yeah, made in Australia to boot.

Stuart

Firstly, a very fine looking trailer there. Well done!! ;D ;D

Secondly, what size mig welder are you using? I am seriously thinking of buying a mig, but don't want to underdo myself by getting the 100A cheapy from around the corner. I was thinking maybe a 140A ish gas/gasless ISP. Would something like this achieve what you are doing? ???

Regards
Goldy


Hey Goldy,

I have access to a bunch of different welders at my mates workshop from single to three phase welders and wouldn't suggest these as a benchmark for you to grab yourself one.

What I would suggest is one that I have just purchased as my own and that is a WIA 150 Weldmatic. This unit is quality all the way and if setup properly you can weld with gas or gasless and with the appropriate sleeve even aluminium.

35-150amp 15amp single phase with euro gun. The unit does weigh some though at around 38kgs.

I see Guzzi has great taste in welders as well.

Regards,

Stuart M

Stuart

Firstly, a very fine looking trailer there. Well done!! ;D ;D

Secondly, what size mig welder are you using? I am seriously thinking of buying a mig, but don't want to underdo myself by getting the 100A cheapy from around the corner. I was thinking maybe a 140A ish gas/gasless ISP. Would something like this achieve what you are doing? ???

Regards
Goldy


Hey Goldy,

I have access to a bunch of different welders at my mates workshop from single to three phase welders and wouldn't suggest these as a benchmark for you to grab yourself one.

What I would suggest is one that I have just purchased as my own and that is a WIA 150 Weldmatic. This unit is quality all the way and if setup properly you can weld with gas or gasless and with the appropriate sleeve even aluminium.

35-150amp 15amp single phase with euro gun. The unit does weigh some though at around 38kgs.

I see Guzzi has great taste in welders as well.

Regards,

Stuart M


what sort of $$ is the mig worth, I have 1 of these on my shopping list as wel.

I have a CIG Brumby 180 amp 75% duty cycle, takes 15 kg rolls of wire and cost $1170.00 about 8 years ago. Also can use gasless wire.. cheers Troopy93

Any updates on the trailer ?

He seem's to have dropped off the face of the earth!!!!!!!

Hey Gang,

No I have not dropped off the face off the earth but rather just been really busy at work...I will post an update tonight guys.

Stuart

i have just been readin thru the whole thing, it was comin along nice, i dnt no wher ud b up to now, but i do like the suspension set up on it...quick q, where r u gonna get evrything to fit out the interior of the trailer

Update No.6 * The Fridge Install *

Sorry to all if I have been a bit slow in updating my trailer build but one thing after another prevented me from sitting down and posting an update.

Anyway I'll kick off the updates again with the fridge install.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3f.jpg

The picture above is a shot taken from the rear of the trailer looking though the rear hatch at the 3 way fridge in its final location. Remember when you walk in through this rear door towards the fridge the kitchen is on the left with sink and stove and the U-shape lounge is on the right.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4f.jpg

Now as you may or may not be aware 3 Way fridges (240v/12v/Gas) require some thought with regards to thier installation and the particular need for correct airflow across the rear of the fridge coils. Please see the photo above showing the rear of the fridge and the coiled tubing.

These type of fridges actually use a heat source be it naked flame or electric element to begin the heat exchage process, that is to remove heat out of the food stored in the fridge compartment and shift that heat via correct ventilation to the ambient.

Anyway the picture above shows the fridge from the rear without a ventilation chamber built.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1f.jpg

This picture shows the infrastructure for the ventilation chamber in place including the vent pipes at the base of the chamber. I have used these pipes and fittings as they are readily available and can be installed with flanges, tubing, angled bends and positive sealing caps for when crossing creeks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2f.jpg

This picture was a quick snap of the above mentioned pipes facing backwards to the rear of the trailer allowing sufficent volume of cool air be allowed to enter to displace hot air therefore creating a draft.

These pipes are not in there final restin position and will be all inline and straight.

I will try and post another update tommorrow.

Stuart

i like!!
how much do you recn its cost you so far??
or is that a scary thing to ask ??

Hey HJ,

No its not a scary thing to ask because I have been trying to stick to an all up budget of around 10k for the whole kit including fitout and canvas.

I reckon I will go close to this figure exlcuding my labour of course because if I had to include that it probably would be worth more than I care to think.....lol

Stuart

Mate it's looking really good, just one thing with the setup for the fridge. I think you will have some problems with the ventilation setup.

Having the pipes like that facing backwards will probably ceate a venturi effect drawing air out of the inside of the trailer, which is good for removing heat, the problem with that is that air will be sucked in from somewhere else, probably through a door or vent seal, which out on a dirt track could see a load of dust drawn in too.

My Dad saw a caravan up north once with a set of pipes poking out where the fridge vent panel was and they had bulldust inside like you wouldn't believe, the guy thought that they would help with air flow, turned out they did, but what goes out must come in.

I'm not sure what the solution might be but i would maybe think of something a little less aggressive, caravans seem to get by with just a louvered panel about 400 x 400 on the outer wall.

Maybe you could just vent it to the storage section in the front through some 50mm pvc pipes with pod filters on them to stop dust and bugs. Or a snorkle setup with a filter so you get positve pressure and have it flow out through another filtered vent located on the side (wouldn't have to crawl underneath at creeks then).

Anyway whatever you come up with I hope that it works out ok.

Keep up the updates they are very inspirational and your work is very impressive.

Regards

Dave
ps are you working from a set of plans or just a rough design drawing with a bit of suck it and see??

Mate it's looking really good, just one thing with the setup for the fridge. I think you will have some problems with the ventilation setup.

Having the pipes like that facing backwards will probably ceate a venturi effect drawing air out of the inside of the trailer, which is good for removing heat, the problem with that is that air will be sucked in from somewhere else, probably through a door or vent seal, which out on a dirt track could see a load of dust drawn in too.

My Dad saw a caravan up north once with a set of pipes poking out where the fridge vent panel was and they had bulldust inside like you wouldn't believe, the guy thought that they would help with air flow, turned out they did, but what goes out must come in.

I'm not sure what the solution might be but i would maybe think of something a little less aggressive, caravans seem to get by with just a louvered panel about 400 x 400 on the outer wall.

Maybe you could just vent it to the storage section in the front through some 50mm pvc pipes with pod filters on them to stop dust and bugs. Or a snorkle setup with a filter so you get positve pressure and have it flow out through another filtered vent located on the side (wouldn't have to crawl underneath at creeks then).

Anyway whatever you come up with I hope that it works out ok.

Keep up the updates they are very inspirational and your work is very impressive.

Regards

Dave
ps are you working from a set of plans or just a rough design drawing with a bit of suck it and see??


G'day Dave,

Thanks for the input and I hope my work can inspire others to have a go as all the feedback here helps me keep motivated.

Regarding your comments about the fridge venting and the venturi effect of pipes facing backwards I advise as follows;

- I should have explained further in the fridge update that the rear fridge chamber is and will be seperated from the trailer and the nose cone, in essence creating a sealed chimmney from top to bottom.

- This seperation is achieved by the vent chamber being enclosed and sealed around the framework you see in the photos at the rear of the fridge.

- This frame is rectangular in design when viewing in plan view and leads all the way from the bottom pipes up to a large vent at the top which will be seen on the outside of the nose cone.

- During travel the venturi effect will keep hot air from the fridge staying in and around the rear pipework and via a series of baffles within the vent chamber create an air path that achieve this.

- Whilst in camp the vent chamber through convection will be able to due to the large sized appertures enable a natural draw of cold air in at the bottom to dispell hot air at the top.

I hope the above explains what I am trying to achieve and I appreciate your input. As for plans I sat down and used Visio and CAD to come up with a set of working drawings that I have moded from there.

Regards,

Stuart M.

Quick question that you may have answered already but what thinkness material are you skinning it with and are you going to Sikaflex the panels on or rivet

Hey There Just Cruzin,

I am skinning with 2.5 mm aluminum sheet and will be using a combination of Sikaflex and countersunk rivets. The rivets will be used in areas where they can't be seen and sikaflex where rivets would be visible.

This is all based on the sheets being folded where it enables me to do the above. Thats the plan anyway.

Stuart

UPDATE No.7 # CHASSIS COATING #

Well fellow forumites I have just completed the coating process of the chassis and I must say I am wrapped. I intended to use keycoat primer first and then a product called Herculiner as the robust final skin.

Well the best laid plans of mice and men went belly up as the rather expensive Herculiner product was when opened found to be completely shot...that is it was partly set and unusable.

So it was to plan 'B' and I decided to use a K&H product called C. Guard as the final finish and loved the stippled result. Remember I started with Duragal as the material used to construct the chassis (which has an inline galvanised finished) and I lightly dulled the surface with very fine sand paper.

I then cleaned the sanded surface with a grease and wax remover, allowing to dry and applied the keycoat primer by spray gun. It was at this point the trailer recieved the C. Guard and the photos show the end result.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_11.jpg

Pic No.1 This is what the trailer looked like before any preparation for coating.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1g.jpg

Pic No.2 Trailer infront of my mates spray booth with the black keycoat primer applied.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2g.jpg

Pic No.3 Trailer view with primer applied and note my handy work on the plastic around the suspension.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3g.jpg

Pic No.4 Application of the C. Guard product with a thread spray gun (underbody gun)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_5d.jpg

Pic No.5 Closeup view of the applied coating still to dry.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4g.jpg

Pic No.6 Closeup of the coating at the pointy end of the trailer frame and I think you should be able to see the stipple effect I was trying to describe.

Next update.......in a couple of days.

Stuart M.

Stuart – what a magnificent job! Well done.

In reading the whole saga today (I am not a very frequent visitor to this forum, but that may change) I was also not quite happy with the stabiliser legs.

Most campers (and caravans) use wind down legs with pivoting feet. This gives infinitely adjustable leg length and the ability to use them on sloping ground. You will find that you can’t quite adjust your leg design to support the camper and yours will result in some rocking.

This isn’t really THAT important, but it could be vaguely annoying and as a 3 way fridge needs to be perfectly level to work its best it could cause some problems in that area too.

Looking forward to seeing the rest of the camper as it is put together though – I wish I could do something similar.

Good one mate!

Joe

AT
Impressive write up and build up.
The fridge vents are interesting and the blokes have raised some interesting points fore and against.
I have another one, air temp in summer over bitumen road surfaces at what 2ft height is bloody hot, on a 40deg day its in the high 50's.
How well will your fridge handle that?
The convection idea is great while camped, but I question any fridges ability to cool in the temperatures you will encounter. Worst case senario I know.
Under mounted water tanks suffer a similar problem, as you end up with warm/hot water whether you want it or not.
Keep up the quest, its a big interesting project, and a entertaining to watch it come together.

Stuart , I must admit that your thread, to me is the most interesting one on the forum @ the moment and to keep up the good work.

Dutchy

Guzzi,

The vents underneath create a venturi effect drawing air out thus air will be sucked down from above the camper through the vent on the top, which should be cooler.

I know it's been said many times before on this thread but congratulations on a fantastic effort.

Can't wait to see the final product.

Hope you don't mind if I copy your stabiliser legs. Very simple and very functional. :)

Stuart – what a magnificent job! Well done.

In reading the whole saga today (I am not a very frequent visitor to this forum, but that may change) I was also not quite happy with the stabiliser legs.

Most campers (and caravans) use wind down legs with pivoting feet. This gives infinitely adjustable leg length and the ability to use them on sloping ground. You will find that you can’t quite adjust your leg design to support the camper and yours will result in some rocking.

This isn’t really THAT important, but it could be vaguely annoying and as a 3 way fridge needs to be perfectly level to work its best it could cause some problems in that area too.


Gday Joe,

Firstly let me say that you should at least come back from time to time to check out my little project in the shed.....at least to give me encouragement...lol

Second and regarding my leg design I believe that I won't have any problems with front to back or side to side trailer stabilitity as it depends on the deployment of the legs in the first place.

The deployment of the legs will done in conjunction with the front jockey wheel and follow this pattern:

1. start with trailer nose partly down. (how much depends on slope)

2. deploy rear drivers side leg by removing from travel position and turning 45' in square socket, insert into socket, remove pin on leg, allow leg to telescope to ground and insert pin.

3. wind jockey wheel up until small level bubble on draw bar shows front to back level is right and deploy front drivers side leg by removing from travel position and turning 45' in square socket, insert into socket, remove pin on leg, allow leg to telescope to ground and insert pin.

4. The above jockey wheel movement also by virtue of suspension setup tends to correct side to side leveling as well.

5. Open lid over to side of trailer and deploy all canvas and then walk to passenger side rear leg and deploy leg by removing from travel position and turning 45' in square socket, insert into fixed trailer socket half way, remove pin on leg, allow leg to telescope to ground and insert pin.

6. Once pin on leg is inserted and foot on leg is touching the ground, knock the leg assembly further into fixed socket on trailer thereby giving providing rigidity.

I have tried this and it does work well and hope the above explaination makes sense.

Regards,

Stuart.

AT
Impressive write up and build up.
The fridge vents are interesting and the blokes have raised some interesting points fore and against.
I have another one, air temp in summer over bitumen road surfaces at what 2ft height is bloody hot, on a 40deg day its in the high 50's.
How well will your fridge handle that?
The convection idea is great while camped, but I question any fridges ability to cool in the temperatures you will encounter. Worst case senario I know.
Under mounted water tanks suffer a similar problem, as you end up with warm/hot water whether you want it or not.
Keep up the quest, its a big interesting project, and a entertaining to watch it come together.



Hey Guzzi,

I think 'Just Cruzin' has cleared up the fridge venting when travelling and as for when at rest I should have mentioned that I will be mounting in the vent chamber a 12 volt CPU fan controlled by a thermostat to kick in where excessive temperatures are encountered around this large country of ours.

I should also mentioned that I won't be solely relying on this 3 way fridge but also have a 40ltr engel in the truck for drinks and meat duty. The 3 way fridge will come into its own when stopped for 3-5days....no noise, no amp draw and best of all long term running without huge amounts of energy input.

I will be installing my own purpose built stainless tanks and only see heat transfer being a problem when first arranging camp over really hot ground, as over time covered ground will always be cooler therefore less heat exchanged. Also as you say this is worst case and not encountered too often.

I am also glad you appreciate the write up, as I enjoy the debate it has created and the comments being put forward. All this debate forces me to ponder what I have and will build.

Regards,

Stuart.

I know it's been said many times before on this thread but congratulations on a fantastic effort.

Can't wait to see the final product.

Hope you don't mind if I copy your stabiliser legs. Very simple and very functional. :)


Hey Slider,

Thanks for the kind words and I am glad you found something useful from my build to use in your setup.

Regards,

Stuart.

Stuart , I must admit that your thread, to me is the most interesting one on the forum @ the moment and to keep up the good work.

Dutchy


Hey Dutchy,

Keep coming back and I will keep adding information. I am glad you like my ramblings.

Stuart.

Will do, on the site @ work when I'm on a break.

Thats and awesome job u have done there mate....

Well done!! ;D

Hey just me again,
noticed the fridge has an evaporation tub on the compressor ... you might need to put a hatch for access as it will trap any dirt or dust that does get in and will end up full of mud.

great looking paint job :)

For a DIYer it looks like it would match if not better some of the ones in the market

Hey just me again,
noticed the fridge has an evaporation tub on the compressor ... you might need to put a hatch for access as it will trap any dirt or dust that does get in and will end up full of mud.

great looking paint job :)


Hey Dp,

Thanks for comment and I have allowed for a full length removable access hatch on the front side of the vent chamber for maintenance reasons. You can't see this yet but when complete it will be accessible via the nose cone.

Thanks for the heads up.

Regards

Stuart .

I just started reading this today. I am really impressed, that is going to be a kick a$$ camper trailer. Extremely impressed ,good work!!! ;D

Patrick

Now, if I just knew how to weld.... ::)

Pic.2: Welding the frame....bloody duragal...spits everywhere when welding.

Excellent workmanship , very professional, good luck


Good to see you've got shorts on to protect you from the spits!! ;D

Noice one. Got to make me one of them one day.... need a shed first.

Great job its looking good. one think you may find with the air vents is that they may suck in dust. my camper trailer had a similar setup under the fridge but it was a flat plastic plate with ribs with ots of holes at the top of the rib and it let heaps of dust in, and water when it rained to i plugged it up. i figured there would be enough air in the trailer when running on 12v while moving, and when it would be running on gas it would be open.
cheers DB

Looking good Stuart.

Give me a few more days and I'll find something else to have a go at ;)

i absolutly love this build up section this trailer has givem me some ideas for my ute and i wouldnt mind making up some camper that can be boved on or off the back of the trayand onto some legs so we can make it portable

its great to see things being created!
a question do you have to have it inspected before getting it registered??
or hows this going to happen?

Nice hammertone effect with the paint on the trailer base. The rest of the build is looking pretty shmick. Looking at how you have done it has given me a few ideas as well. Good job and keep the updates coming.

Great work. How many Photos of an ultimate did you take, I am woking on a Dual Axle version at the moment. The Chassis is fully built with a box on it at the moment for cheaper rego. my next step is the camper but I may be going back to the drawing board after seeing yours.
http://tinypic.com/9k2jdk.jpg
Here is the Articulation.
http://tinypic.com/9k2icl
here is the suspension.
http://tinypic.com/9k2m9v.jpg
here is the hitch.

I have a concern with the thickness of the plate you have used for the spare carrier I think it should be atleast 5-6 mm thick. Just a thought bcause it is at the back of the trailer where most of the vibration is.
cheers. Paul.

What an awesome effort.

You obviously have put alot of thought into the project and have the knowledge and ability to see it through. Your build quality looks top rate.

I own a recently purchased Ultimate Camper trailer and it's like watching it being built. Your design is a complete knock off of the Ultimate which brings me to my point.

Have you considered the legality of your project. I'm sure Ultimate would have a patent/copyright or something on their design.

I just don't want to see your efforts wasted by the legal stuff that's all.

I too am now a frequent visitor to this thread to keep updated on your progress.

Again, an awesome job......well done. Maybe you should approach them (Ultimate) for a job. A staff discount might make it more affordable ;D ;D ;D

Regards,
Scott

Have you considered the legality of your project. I'm sure Ultimate would have a patent/copyright or something on their design.


Its really only an issue if you try to make money out of it.

Building your own , for your own personal use , based around the vague idea of the Ultimate , is not infringing on copyright.

Someone like the Gulflander builders would have far more to worry about.

at4wd.
I am realy cross with you for doing this because I was happy with my trailer for now (not realy need to buy a MIG or even better a TIG). but that has changed after seeing this post.
It looks to me like I have to sit at AUTO CAD and finish my design off so I can start on the next stage. I have been lasy of late and as you can see from above it is still a box trailer not a camper (very capable box trailer though) I just wish I could be bothered to make them to sell. But you will know from your current experience that it is the last thing on your mind. I am a boilermaker by trade and I have just recently finnised my degree in mechanical/stuctural engineering and I now work for a consultancy firm, if there is any thing I can help you with just give me a HOY, I say this because you have helped me by doing what you are doing.
Keep up the great workmanship and dont get dismayed because it does happen. Just take a day off and get drunk with your friends.
Cheers.
Paul.
ps. What version of CAD are you using if you like I can turn these into a PDF so you can print them off on any PC.

Flappan,
I hear what you say, in fact I believe Ultimate are looking at some legal action over the Gulflander for their design and from what I've seen so far, this project is even closer to a replica of the Ultimate design than that.

As I said, I own an Ultimate and so far its a vitual copy design wise, hence my previoius post.

Like I also say, I'm all for the bloke havin' a go but just don't want to see him in court. So long as he has this issue covered he should be sweet.

Scott

Flappan,
I hear what you say, in fact I believe Ultimate are looking at some legal action over the Gulflander for their design and from what I've seen so far, this project is even closer to a replica of the Ultimate design than that.

As I said, I own an Ultimate and so far its a vitual copy design wise, hence my previoius post.

Like I also say, I'm all for the bloke havin' a go but just don't want to see him in court. So long as he has this issue covered he should be sweet.

Scott

Scott he won't get into trouble, just so long as he does not try to sell them commercially or he's has made more than 10% of changes to the original design. I think he will be pretty cool as far as the patent is concerned, just so long as he registers it as home made. I'm not having a go at you Scott (I have just read through and it sounds like it, sorry)
It's just I went through this a couple of years ago with a project I was working on. Ultimate dont own the concept patent of camper trailers they only own their original design.
I hope this makes the whole patent thing a lot clearer.
Cheers

I have a concern with the thickness of the plate you have used for the spare carrier I think it should be atleast 5-6 mm thick. Just a thought bcause it is at the back of the trailer where most of the vibration is.
cheers. Paul.


Hey Paul,

Love your suspension and trailer setup......where ru located? Maybe we could grab a beer and chat trailers etc. I am in Sydney.

Thanks for your view on the spare wheel carrier and maybe I should have posted a picture of the completed tyre carrier sooner but here it is anyway. Note the gussets welded to support the plate etc....I don't think she will fall apart....what do reckon? I tried to have the gusset plates meet the bolt heads and transfer the weight to the gussets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1h.jpg

Let me know what you think?

Stuart

What an awesome effort.

You obviously have put alot of thought into the project and have the knowledge and ability to see it through. Your build quality looks top rate.

I own a recently purchased Ultimate Camper trailer and it's like watching it being built. Your design is a complete knock off of the Ultimate which brings me to my point.

Have you considered the legality of your project. I'm sure Ultimate would have a patent/copyright or something on their design.

I just don't want to see your efforts wasted by the legal stuff that's all.

I too am now a frequent visitor to this thread to keep updated on your progress.

Again, an awesome job......well done. Maybe you should approach them (Ultimate) for a job. A staff discount might make it more affordable ;D ;D ;D

Regards,
Scott



Scott,

Thanks for your kind words and I hope you get enjoyment from watching me build this thing. Yes it is close to the Ultimate in shape but built in a totally different way i.e steel and aluminium in lieu of ply and fibreglass. I suppose this was a challenge I set myself to see if I could come up with a unit that I liked and to see if I could improve on what I was basing it on.

As for all the other stuff raised about copy issues I believe that as long as this is for my own personal use, education and research it will not attract the issues if you were commercially producing and selling.

Also there is copyright, design and patents and Ultimate would fit into design and I believe they don't even have there design registered therefore because it has been in the public domain all these years they have I believe missed the boat to protect it now.

I also understand that you can't copyright an idea and as such I don't believe Gulflander will be in any trouble.

As for patents these are reserved for inventions and I don't believe these trailers are inventions.

Regards,

Stuart

PS I only started this journey as I liked the commercially built product but could not bring myself to part with the price tag and therefore created a hobby for myself which is now going on some two years from concept stage. ::)

Stuart that is an amazing piece of kit!!! 8)

Would you consider drawers in the bottom of the nosecone?Just a thought, mate that trailer will definately be something to see when you're done, well done! ;D

Toy80st, (& Stuart)
Mate no offence taken (I did not think for a minute that you were having a go at me) it was just something that crossed my mind when I saw the project.

I'm all for it and keep logging on to check the progress.

I'm glad Stuart has considered the issue Keep up the work and progress reports mate as we are all "watching this space." Love your work.

Regards,
Scott

Mate, that is an awesome piece of work! Im in the middle of a homemade rooftop tent which i thought was alot of work until I read this thread. ;D ;D
youve re-inspired me, top job!
I wish i had a mig! arcs are for suckers....

Update No.8 ** Main Body and Nose Cone Frame -Paint Coating **

Well fellow forumites its been a little while since I last posted about any progress but that is because I have been flat out at work and haven't been able to concentrate on my trailer.

In this update I have managed to finally finish my framework for the main camper body and after two versions... the framework for the nose cone. The paint process starts where all the good is done.....cleaning the substrate for coating. After much elbow grease and wiping with cleaning solvent we set about spraying the frames with black etch primer & then Dulux Industrial Blue Grey Enamel.

I thought I would go with the Dulux enamel product for the frame coatings as I was after a product that would dry quickly and set hard. This stuff they use as a coating on Caterpillar Dozers etc. so I though it would be durable.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1i.jpg

Pic No.1 : Aerial view of Main Body Frame with Black Ecth Primer applied.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2i.jpg

Pic No.2 : End view of Main Body Frame with Black Ecth Primer applied.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3i.jpg

Pic No.3 : Aerial view of Main Body Frame with Dulux Industrial Blue Grey enamel applied.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4i.jpg

Pic No.4 : End view of Main Body Frame with Dulux Industrial Blue Grey enamel applied.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_5i.jpg

Pic No.5 : Bottom view of Nose Cone Frame with Dulux Industrial Blue Grey enamel applied.

Its kinda funny looking at these pictures as the frames have that jailhouse bar affect ;D......and I must admit there were times when I felt like I was behind bars in trying to build this bloody trailer... ::)

I feel that now this paint process is over I will be able to see huge results as I attach all the exterior skin panels that I have already folded and have awaiting final placement.

Thanks again to all who just keep coming back to this thread and dropping those ideas, questions and encouragement.

Stuart.

Stuart that is an amazing piece of kit!!! 8)

Would you consider drawers in the bottom of the nosecone?Just a thought, mate that trailer will definately be something to see when you're done, well done! ;D


Hey Wombat,

I am sitting here on the couch at home with some spiritual guidance in a glass pondering your draw idea and wonder where to place those draws in the nose cone.

I would love you to eloborate on your idea and where you pictured the draws situated in the nose cone.

Regards,

Stuart.

Hi Stuart
It wasn't until your most recent post with the frames painted that I realised that the frames were actually separate from the chassis of the trailer. Could you explain why you chose this path instead of having the frames integrated with the chassis. Also how are they going to be attached.

Keep up the great work -- it looks to be a high quality job all the way.

Doctor I

Hi Stuart
It wasn't until your most recent post with the frames painted that I realised that the frames were actually separate from the chassis of the trailer. Could you explain why you chose this path instead of having the frames integrated with the chassis. Also how are they going to be attached.


Doctor I


Hey Doc,

Its funny how you don't think about why you do things after you have done them until someone asks the question. I selected to go down the path of two seperate pieces based on the following ;

1. I wanted to seperate the trailer frame from the body and nose cone frame mainly because they were built from two distinct types of materials....that is size, thickness and finishes.

2. I was looking at the future need for possible mods etc when I thought about being able to seperate them.

3. I felt that from a build point of view when constructing, coating and skinning the body and nose cone frame it would far easier to move it around in any plane that I wanted.

4. I also wanted to limit the amount of welding on the trailer frame to ensure integrity of the base material as much as possible.

5. As far as bringing the three sections together I have welded gussets plates in various locations on the trailer frame to match gussets plates welded into the matching locations on the body and nose cone frames. (see pics below for and example of this gusset plate)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1ja.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2ja.jpg

I will then be using stainless bolts, washers and nyloc nuts to bolt everything together with a layer of 4-5mm rubber between the two sections to stop metal to metal rubbing.

6. The bolting together includes bolting the nose cone frame to the main body frame.

Hope this explains my thoughts well enough and maybe Doc, you had some views as to how I should have built the unit...I would be interested to hear if you do as it may help me in some other format.
Can never stop learning from others......

Regards,

Stuart.

Hey Stu and Doc,
My trailer has been done in the same fashion (separate chassis to camper) I did this because I want to Galvanise the Chassis when it comes to putting the camper on the top and because it will only cost me $80 per year to register as a box instead of $380. I will save that this year because the box cost under $200 to make (second hand steel). I am pulling the box off in a couple of weeks, because of Stuart and his adventure.
I am going to post my own thread when I start so I don't take up to much of Stu's space.
cheer's
Paul.
PS.
Stu my experiences with the CAT epoxy that you are using is that it is realy hard and prone to chipping. If you have used the same undercoat (CAT spec) it won't be a problem though.

Is stainless the right material for bolts used in this type of construction?

I thought shear strength was a problem. Love to be wrong.

Temp variations are a problem as well, aren't they?

Sensational quality of construction!

Stu I want to add to Blu's coment's don't use the Stainless,
if you do use 304 bolts and 316 nut's with neverseize or grease applied (they will bind together and you will have to cut them off) 8.8 galvanised is the better option. another thing on stainless, it wont mix with galvanisation the two actually react.

Stu I want to add to Blu's coment's don't use the Stainless,
if you do use 304 bolts and 316 nut's with neverseize or grease applied (they will bind together and you will have to cut them off) 8.8 galvanised is the better option. another thing on stainless, it wont mix with galvanisation the two actually react.


Hey Guys,

Points taken and will go on the hunt for some 8.8 gal bolts and nuts.See now this is why i like the information tree in this forum. Thanks guys.

While I am in learning mode, I have considered the dis-similar metals in my construction and this is one of the main reasons for coating the frame work with paint before aluminium skin was applied....how much of a problem would the reaction be anyway....the bolts would be passing through zincalume or pre gal materials and washers will be against paint and/or aluminium skin.

Regards,

Stuart.

Stu my experiences with the CAT epoxy that you are using is that it is realy hard and prone to chipping. If you have used the same undercoat (CAT spec) it won't be a problem though.


Hey Paul,

There wont be any of the trailer frame exposed to the outside environment and only some of the actual painted surface inside will have items sitting on or near the coated metal. I will be looking to minimise the actual contact of heavy objects to avoid the chipping effect. I mainly coated the metal to provide additonal rust proofing. I will also keep note of the hardness of the paint over the next few weeks and report back.

What paint would you have used if you had the choice Paul?

Regards,

Stuart.

The Problem between Gal and Stainless is large enough to worry about the stainless is fine but the gal eats away especialy with minute traces of salt. even with you coating the gal with paint it may still corode.
Cheers
Paul

I will ask my mate at hunter protective coatings through the week, I have to arrange to get my wish bone assemblys done while the chassis is getting galvenised.
Cheers

:)personally i reckon take the wife & kids & save on space , WEIGHT,load ,everything including fuel of all kinds & a shit load of time

I will ask my mate at hunter protective coatings through the week, I have to arrange to get my wish bone assemblys done while the chassis is getting galvenised.
Cheers


Paul,

I believe that at the end of the day all coatings except hot dip gal will have issues with impact damage from stones etc. I have just opted for coatings that I can easily touch up if need be on the run.

Regards,

Stuart.

That's it exactly carry a can of cold gal with the gas cylinder
cheers
Paul.

Hope this explains my thoughts well enough and maybe Doc, you had some views as to how I should have built the unit...I would be interested to hear if you do as it may help me in some other format.
Can never stop learning from others......

Regards,

Stuart.

Thanks for that comprehensive explanation Stuart. You really have thought many things through very thoroughly.
When it comes to mechanical engineering my thinking tends to be overly simplistic -- after all my formal studies were in physics and electronic engineering. So in terms of building a trailer I can only play devils advocate and ask the (sometimes) silly questions.
Doc

Also there is copyright, design and patents and Ultimate would fit into design and I believe they don't even have there design registered therefore because it has been in the public domain all these years they have I believe missed the boat to protect it now.

I also understand that you can't copyright an idea and as such I don't believe Gulflander will be in any trouble.


Just out of interest.

I was talking to a guy with an Ultimate a few weeks back , and apparently , its NOT the design of the Gulflander thats the problem , its the fact that Gulflander use the SAME canvas maker , and advertise as having the "Ultimate in Canvas".

Also there is copyright, design and patents and Ultimate would fit into design and I believe they don't even have there design registered therefore because it has been in the public domain all these years they have I believe missed the boat to protect it now.

I also understand that you can't copyright an idea and as such I don't believe Gulflander will be in any trouble.


Just out of interest.

I was talking to a guy with an Ultimate a few weeks back , and apparently , its NOT the design of the Gulflander thats the problem , its the fact that Gulflander use the SAME canvas maker , and advertise as having the "Ultimate in Canvas".


Hey Flappan,

As I understand it the guys who makes the canvas for the Ultimates is a seperate business called Ultimate Canvas and I did note that the canvas on the Gulflanders were being made by Ultimate Canvas.

For this reason I don't believe that Gulflander have an issue as the two businesses Ultimate Campers and Ultimate Canvas are seperate and the canvas maker has Ultimate in his business name so I can't see why Gulflander couldn't make the claim they do without fear of reprisal.

Regards,

Stuart.

PS. IMHO Ultimate should take all this as a form of flattery as others think highly enough of there product to come as near as possible in there offerings.

Probably on to something there.

I dont know 100% of the story , just what I posted.

All I'm 100% sure of is , its not the design of the CT that was in question , it was the Canvas.

I wonder if Ultimate Canvas was the original name ?

Hey Paul,

There wont be any of the trailer frame exposed to the outside environment and only some of the actual painted surface inside will have items sitting on or near the coated metal. I will be looking to minimise the actual contact of heavy objects to avoid the chipping effect. I mainly coated the metal to provide additonal rust proofing. I will also keep note of the hardness of the paint over the next few weeks and report back.

Regards,

Stuart.


G'day Stu,
It's looking good. Something I've found on my trailer that helps the gas bottle/jerry rubbing situation is some pool solar tubing. As it's a tube of rubber, it splits & tacks on easily to the base of the gas bottle. You can use a patch of the stuff on the wall of the bottle, and on the jerry to avoid having to do anything special to the trailer / paintwork. Works great.
Andy

Stu, the camper is lopking good so far, how long until you start putting the skin on. Keep up the good work.


Dutchy

G'day Stu,
It's looking good. Something I've found on my trailer that helps the gas bottle/jerry rubbing situation is some pool solar tubing. As it's a tube of rubber, it splits & tacks on easily to the base of the gas bottle. You can use a patch of the stuff on the wall of the bottle, and on the jerry to avoid having to do anything special to the trailer / paintwork. Works great.
Andy


Paul,

Thanks for the ideas, I was looking at building a base ring and bottle clamp to secure all the bottles in the locker and the same for the jerry cans in the nose cone....now I will add your rubber idea into the mix as well to stop of any rattling and rubbing.

Regards,

Stuart

Stu, the camper is lopking good so far, how long until you start putting the skin on. Keep up the good work.


Dutchy


Hey Dutchy,

I was going to start the skinning process this weekend but it started dumping snow today so I postponed til the following and am heading down to the snow on thursday night to rip the slopes up...... ;D ;D

Regards,

Stuart

that thing is awesome!! great job! 8)

Stu, your a lucky bugger to be able to go play in the snow, It's a bit hard to go skiing overhere in Perth.

Dutchy

Nice Job.

Keep it coming! 8)

Stu, your a lucky bugger to be able to go play in the snow, It's a bit hard to go skiing overhere in Perth.

Dutchy


Hey Dutchy,

I will have a run and drink of snapps at the bar for you mate....will post some pics on return.

It has been snowing for two days....best conditions for ages...50cms of new snow...awsome.

Regards,

Stuart

I saw on the news this morning that it's snowing in kurrumburra Gippsland Vic, that must be some big cold front going through at the moment. Hope all you eastern states boy's enjoy the snow this weekend.


Dutchy

Cant have this falling to the second page

No we can't Flappan. I think Stu is still at the snow. so we will keep it up there. :)

Hey Boys,

I am backkkkkkk.....from the dark side or should I say the white side. Great snow, great skiing, great food and way to much booze.

Thanks for keeping the thread up there in the rankings while I was gone and especially for keeping me off page two. Its been two weeks since I struck a blow on my trailer and man am I getting itching hands. I hope that I will be able to get into it this weekend.

Regards,

Stuart .

Me Again,

Just so I can stay true to this forum I wanted to show that I was indeed mixing the skiing and fourbing while I was away..... ;D

Anyway have alook at this pic and it shows my rig with a mate standing in front grinning from ear to ear....with snow like this why wouldn't you be smiling.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1k.jpg

I hope I haven't brought you all to tears with a great snow day like this.

Stuart.

PS. Dutchy that cold front dumped heaps as you can see.

G/day Syuart
Mate have been watching this unfold with great intrest.
You have done a great job, very impresive.
Mate the bolt issue I use stainless bolt in the Car Washing systems I install (because of the high water and chemical spray). Very little loading.The issue is that if you get a bolt that the tread binds up on (witch is often)you can shear them of with a 3/8 scocket and a 13mm ring /openender. The 10mm bolts we use can be sheard of with 2 17mm spaners :o I do not think they will last the first 100ks mate.
You would be better of with grade 8 or grade 12 bolts cad plated and asemble them with lanotec,useing nyloc nuts.
Keep up the great work mate.
Cheers
Rat

Me Again,

Just so I can stay true to this forum I wanted to show that I was indeed mixing the skiing and fourbing while I was away..... ;D

Anyway have alook at this pic and it shows my rig with a mate standing in front grinning from ear to ear....with snow like this why wouldn't you be smiling.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1k.jpg

I hope I haven't brought you all to tears with a great snow day like this.

Stuart.

PS. Dutchy that cold front dumped heaps as you can see.

Well that's one way of getting off the "blacktop".
The rest of us are green with envy. How dare you have so much fun when the rest of us are stuck at work. :(
Now get on with that trailer of yours.

Doc

You would be better of with grade 8 or grade 12 bolts cad plated and asemble them with lanotec,useing nyloc nuts.
Keep up the great work mate.
Cheers
Rat


Hey Rat,

Thanks for the advice and advice has been taken along with others comments on this issue and I will be using high tensile hardware now and also like your lanotec hint.

Thanks,

Stuart

Well that's one way of getting off the "blacktop".
The rest of us are green with envy. How dare you have so much fun when the rest of us are stuck at work. :(
Now get on with that trailer of yours.

Doc


Hey There Doc,

I have done exactly what you said and started on the trailer again today. I have been working on the sheeting of the nose cone and I will post pics later on tonight......it looks cool.

Regards,

Stuart.

Cant wait to see how you sheet the nose cone. Trailer is looking great. Went to a caravan and camping show today to have a look at all the campers and was hopping to see the ultimate camper there to compare but they seem to be the only camper not there. anyway, keep up the good work. Ithink you have the hole forum waiting for the final potos. :) :)

UPDATE No.9 ** NOSE CONE SHEETING **

Hi All,

Well i have finally got back into build mode again after a couple of weekends off enjoying other pursuits. So I roll up this morning with intentions of sheeting the body but thought why not start at the nose cone.

I thought the base of the cone was as good as place as any to start and below you can see the result and you may not that I completed using three seperate peices as to maximise sheet use.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1l.jpg

Pic 1. Showing base skin on Nose Cone.


Having completed the mark out, jigsaw the shape and then a few rivets the base was completed and I then moved onto the more tricky side sheet. I say tricky because I have curves and angles that allows the nose cone shape to flow smootly from the front around the side into the trailer body shape.

I decided the easiest way to produce this piece was by creating a template out of cardboard first with notch noted where a compound curve is encountered around the side of the nose cone shape.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2l.jpg


Pic. 2 Shows the cardboard template held in place for final checks and note the base sheet from this angle.

I then laid the template flat in 1D, marked out, cut with thy trusty jigsaw leaving some overlap for final adjustment of the panel shape with grinder. I then hand pressed and clamped into position finishing with rivets to hold fast.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_3l.jpg


Pic. 3 Wella....the end result of the shaped sheet....I reckon all my xmas's came today as I was extremely chuffed seeing the end result of all the hard work with the sub frame paying off.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_4l.jpg


Pic.4 Similar pic as 3 but from a slightly different angle.


Anyway there is my effort from today and I look forward to completing the other side and top next week.

By the way guys what rivets do you all think I should be using.....stainless, aluminium, steel or !!!

Regards,

Stuart.

Went to a caravan and camping show today to have a look at all the campers and was hopping to see the ultimate camper there to compare but they seem to be the only camper not there. anyway, keep up the good work. Ithink you have the hole forum waiting for the final potos. :) :)


Hey Plucka,

What camping show was on that you attended?

Stuart

what sheet are you using, Aluminium or Steel, if it is Aluminium try to get some Cherrymax rivets, they are the same as pop rivets but they have a locking ring in the top to prevent them coming loose, they are used on aircraft, you should be able to get them from any aircraft maintenance facility if you ask them nicely they might be able to get some for you
Cheers
Chris

The great land of w.a.

Stu.
A mate of mine is building an aeroplane at the moment, he owes me a few favours I will ask him about where you can buy the cherrymax rivets. They are good and they handle the vibration well. I forgot all about them.
P.

what sheet are you using, Aluminium or Steel, if it is Aluminium try to get some Cherrymax rivets, they are the same as pop rivets but they have a locking ring in the top to prevent them coming loose, they are used on aircraft, you should be able to get them from any aircraft maintenance facility if you ask them nicely they might be able to get some for you
Cheers
Chris


Hey Chris,

Thanks for the tip.....I went looking today at the Cherrymax rivet mentioned and found that they are bloddy expensive..

Anyway found out that Textron Fastners from the US that make these rivets had an office three streets away from my work and paid them a visit. I have dicussed my application and your views and have come away with a rivet called KVEX (K1604-00615) to be precise.

This is a 3/16 blind, countersunk, self locking rivet in Aluminium with variable grip range of 3.2mm - 7.9mm. It was perfect for my application and about a quarter of the price. The countersunk aspect of the design will look great as well. By the way I am fixing 2.5mm aluminium to 1.6mm & 3mm thick steel.

Thanks for your input as I now have a complete solution that won't vibrate loose or leak.

Regards
Stuart.

PS. I will post some closeup pics of the rivet in place.

Stu.
A mate of mine is building an aeroplane at the moment, he owes me a few favours I will ask him about where you can buy the cherrymax rivets. They are good and they handle the vibration well. I forgot all about them.
P.


Paul,

Thanks for thought of calling in favours....cheers.

See response above as I think I have solved in the mean time.

Regards

Stuart

mate, how good are you!
Watching this space for some more updates is becoming a religion for me. Inspiring stuff.

Glad to be of assistance

Chris

hey, how long before you are finished do you think?

hey, how long before you are finished do you think?


Bren,

I have really given up trying to predict when I will finish.....but I am aiming/trying to be complete and on the road by January.....:)

Stuart

Part 10 ** NOSE CONE SHEETING continued ****

Hi Gang,

Well I continued from where I left off last weekend and shaped and cut the other side panel for my nose cone. Please see results in picture below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_1m.jpg

Now whilst getting this panel ready and the small V nose piece installed I contemplated various ways of manufacturing the hatch doors and how best to install them.

See below for a mock up of what I envisage.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v451/at4wd/4WD%20Monthly/atrailer_2m.jpg

Now let me explain that I am proposing to make the doors so they are shaped using hard angles and not curves as can be seen by the outline of them in the mock up photo above. I am also trying to make all doors and surrounding sheeting flush with each other.

I will then using the paint outlines disguise the hard angles as can be seen in the mock up photo.

Give me some feedback guys...what do you think?

Regards

Stuart.

Make the frame hard angles as per your mock up and overhang the aluminium panel following the curve of the nose. We do this on the coaches we build at work and it looks good.

How are you finishing the edges where the too planes meet? Are you going to cap them off or use Sika to seal them.

Stu have you made a gutter around the inside of the door openings to catch any water spray when driving in wet conditions or are you just relying on a rubber seal?
P.

Stu, what can I say but that looks bloody beut. I think that TOY80ST is right and maybe think about a gutter system for under the doors though.


Dutchy

Stu have you made a gutter around the inside of the door openings to catch any water