Consumption improvements (petrol)

[rotate]

Anybody got any secrets to getting some good economy? I have a 4.2 carb GQ and am concerned about the economy it's going to give. So far i have done the following to keep it in check.
Basic service-air/oil filters, rad flush
40 psi in tyres ( for daily duties)
fuel filters new
tappets adjusted
cat converter in good nick (And not MIA! has happened to me before....)

Considoring a hiflow, anyone had any experience with these? I would love to pull the head off, get it on the flow bench and see if i couldnt make some improvements, but can't justify that untill the head absolutely has to be removed.

regards,
Mick

[toy yoda]

headers and a 2.5" exhaust and i prosume your gq still has points if so replace it with a elec kit ( pertronix or like)
make sure the carby is correctly adjusted and check the ignition timing

[Auchenblae]

Also mark where the gap is facing on your spark plugs and point that at the incoming fuel charge

[HiFiRobbie]

Or sell it and buy a moped.

[kranky al]

Also mark where the gap is facing on your spark plugs and point that at the incoming fuel charge


how do you do this? i would have thought when the thread is tight .... its tight and thats where they will point?

[jg1982]

I've heard of people selling 'indexing' washers to allow this.
No idea whether it actually achieves anything or not though.

[Chuckanoo]

You could change you spark plugs over to the 'Super 4' range:).
I did it with mine, the Handbrake's and my dads cars, and all have shown a slight improvement in economy and power:thumb:.
Not much, but any increase is better than none:thumb:.

[Courierman]

Maybe a hiclone as they say in carbed motors they work pretty well.

[jim0001]

Anybody got any secrets to getting some good economy? I have a 4.2 carb GQ and am concerned about the economy it's going to give. So far i have done the following to keep it in check.
Basic service-air/oil filters, rad flush
40 psi in tyres ( for daily duties)
fuel filters new
tappets adjusted
cat converter in good nick (And not MIA! has happened to me before....)

Considoring a hiflow, anyone had any experience with these? I would love to pull the head off, get it on the flow bench and see if i couldnt make some improvements, but can't justify that untill the head absolutely has to be removed.

regards,
Mick


Mick,

Fundamentally there are four systems within a vehicle engine, these are:

* Engine

* Fuel system

* Air intake system

* Exhaust system


Now, I am sure you know that manufacturers build cars to a slightly different agenda to that we have as ardent four wheel drivers. Factors such as air intake induction noise, exhaust noise, cost of manufacture and aesthetics are not all that important to us, to a greater or lesser degree. Manufacturers don't neccessarily see the world as we do, and as a consequence, build cars to suit the vast majority of the market into which they sell.

Improving fuel economy, without playing with the engine, pretty much comes down to three factors, two mentioned above. these are:


* Air intake system

* Exhaust system

* Right foot application.

You can improve the economy you are getting by taking a good look at the air intake system. I have seen significant improvements in power by modifying and improving the air intake system in my 105 Landcruiser. These results were visible on a dyno, so I am certain of that which I speak. Opening the diameter of the air intake, and removing restrictions and or providing sweeping bends or elbows where possible will do a lot for you, and the economy of your vehicle.

A similar philosophy applies to the exhaust system. The engine has to be able to breathe, and it has to be able to exhaust the burnt fuel air mixture easily. Fitting a larger diameter exhaust free of sharp bends and restrictions will show results on the dyno as far as improved power and torque is concerned. If this is the case, logic suggests that at comparable throttle openings, better economy will result.

Finally, the most significant factor contributing to economy is pressure on the right foot. Some people (me) are naturally right foot heavy, some conservative. Driving with a light throttle will make a difference.

Hope this helps.

Jim

[Auchenblae]

Hi Mick

Its not as 'exact' as mark the plug where the gap is and set it there, the best way to it involves doing up you plug to the correct torque as we all use torque wrenches dont we, then giving it a nip up to get it pointing in a preferable point, just dont over tighten it. If you using a socket set and no torque wrench as I do I jsut tighten it up then when it fells about right (which there is a fair bit that feels about right) I aim the mark.

Its a bit dodgy but with a bit of attention and care it can be done. Esp if you have an older engine - on a flash Honda I wouldnt do this but on a old machine thats seen a few plugs in already then its worth a shot

And its free

[trains]

Guys, I used to have an old falcon with the long intake maniflod that was cast into the head.
I used to mix in acetone 20ml/ 10 lts of fuel.
Car idles smoother, ran better when cold, gave improved response, and certainly helped with the milage, was getting 10lts/100kms at 110+km/hr.
those 65 model falcons were not know for aerodynamics.

Used it with noticable benefits on other petty, carb models.
Remember less is more, dont over do it.

Acetone In Fuel Said to Increase Mileage (http://pesn.com/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/)

and

Directory:Acetone Additive:FAQ - PESWiki (http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Acetone_Additive:FAQ#Q._How_much_do_I_ad d_to_my_tank.3F)

will give you all you need to know.
Have been doing this for 5+ years, and the car is fine.
It also cleaned up the carby of any varnish deposits, and cleaned the head, as when I removed the spark plugs, they were cleaner, removed of their usual ash build up.

Give it a go, and measure the results accurately, you will be surprised.

It acts as a wetting agent, so the fuel stays in suspension, and in smaller droplets, thus there is more fuel surface area to mix with the air, and as a result, better combustion.

Trains

[BeNoS]

Guys, I used to have an old falcon with the long intake maniflod that was cast into the head.
I used to mix in acetone 20ml/ 10 lts of fuel.
Car idles smoother, ran better when cold, gave improved response, and certainly helped with the milage, was getting 10lts/100kms at 110+km/hr.
those 65 model falcons were not know for aerodynamics.

Used it with noticable benefits on other petty, carb models.
Remember less is more, dont over do it.

Acetone In Fuel Said to Increase Mileage (http://pesn.com/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/)

and

Directory:Acetone Additive:FAQ - PESWiki (http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Acetone_Additive:FAQ#Q._How_much_do_I_ad d_to_my_tank.3F)

will give you all you need to know.
Have been doing this for 5+ years, and the car is fine.
It also cleaned up the carby of any varnish deposits, and cleaned the head, as when I removed the spark plugs, they were cleaner, removed of their usual ash build up.

Give it a go, and measure the results accurately, you will be surprised.

It acts as a wetting agent, so the fuel stays in suspension, and in smaller droplets, thus there is more fuel surface area to mix with the air, and as a result, better combustion.

Trains

hey mate so does this really work as it sounds like a good idea. and you reckon it doesnt affect engines or anything like that.

also sorry to hijack the thread here but do all gq carbs have cats as mine is well its MIA but it doesnt look like there was ever one there.

[trains]

Yer mate, works well.
At the ratios you are using, the fuel is more damaging than the acetone in it if you know what I mean.

Like I said, less is more, read up on it, and start on the low side.
Helps if you have some accurate figures on your fuel burn, ie kms and how many lts same pump etc.

I would be very surprised if you didnt notice a difference with its idle, especially when cold.

Used it for a number of years now with no problems in both petty, and diesel.
I just made sure that the diesel tank was clean of any water, however most other fuel additives just dissolve the water anyway.
Only sharing what ive tried, and tested, and found to be of help.

Trains

[watermouse]

I have also looked into acetone supplements but i decided not to try as the risk of engine damage was too high. Acetone on all metal parts is fine but it can attack some plastics and rubbers. Most of the problems people seem to have with acetone in the fuel is with the electronic fuel injectors failing so perhaps carby engines aren't as susceptible.


Neil

[trains]

Im yet to see acetone damage any fuel lines, pumps, both electric, and rubber, or fuel injectors.
Been used as mentioned for over 5 years with only benefits to speak of.
At such concentrations, ie under .5% I have not seen any harm done.
One of my mates who uses it in his falcon with the old 2 injectors in the throttle body, has gained much better milage, and his injectors now spray far better than they did to start with as they have been cleaned, but not damaged by using it.


Trains

[beefy125]

Will adding acetone work on a 4.2 efi GQ

[trains]

You will notice much less difference compared to a carby.
however it will clean out your injector nozzles, and you may notice better running after a tank or 2.
Its actually one of the ingredients in most injector/ fuel system cleaners anyway.

Trains

[DJR96]

By far the best thing you can do for a petrol Patrol is replace the points with an electronic setup. The points tend to need a small gap which is more sensitive to wear and arcing and doesn't stay set correctly for very long. So this, extractors and decent free-flowing exhaust and inlet plumbing will all help. Acetone is safe enough to try. I've been using it in my '99 Fairmont V8 for about a year now. I've still got to sit down and analyze my fuel usage to see how much gain it makes though.

[M543]

Mick

Don't forget the condition of the distributor. Most people carefully set the timing at idle and never give a thought as to what happens after that. You could find the timing mark is a degree or two out on the harmonic balancer or wherever it is located on your car. It is common to see a two or even three degree variation in spark timing between cylinders. Advancing too far too soon is another problem that develops after distribututors get a few ks up on them. Another one is the voltage drop between the rotor and the cap. Many times I have fitted a new cap and rotor to a car and found the loss to be far too high. I would then have to elongate the end of the rotor by hammering it in order to reduce the gap and get the drop back within limits.

There are a lot of things that can be done to improve comsumption but often the costs outweigh the benefits. The distributor is possibly one example because you virtually have to have it blue printed to get the ignition spot on but it will make a difference.

[Chuckanoo]

If you are still running points and cannot find or afford the conversion to a fully electronic igniton, you could try the 'Transistor Assited Ignition kit' from Silicon chip Silicon Chip Electronics Magazine for Hobby Electronics, Computing, Kits and Projects. (http://www.siliconchip.com.au/)

I have the original kit running in the Hilux, and until just recently, I never had to adjust or replace my points for 5 years:)

[disco_nex]

Acetone loves to corrode things, so helps to be sure that it wont affect seals and the like.

Extractors and a free flow exhaust, plus a larger air inlet system is the best way to clear up better economy by my opinion. Unless the right foot is used too much!