Broken CV 100series live axle

[100cruiser]

After my minute of madness this morning in a bog hole with wheels going every where including in the air, there was a bang a clunk and then a ratcheting sound, im guessing this was a CV letting go in the front driver wheel. My question is, is this something i can investigate myself with out any special tools or any thing springing out at me. If not is there any where around Caboolture to do this work other than Toyota, or are they my only choice, I trailered the truck home as it did not sound to good up front and i figured driving was no going to be good, this brings me to the next question, is there a way of driving with a broken CV, i've seen people pull parts out of older cruisers but not the newer ones...
Thanks Craig

[BEU77Y]

Is it a full time 4wd?

Has it got ABS?

CV's are not too hard to remove. Just time consuming. Easier if you've got a Gregories manual.

If it's full time 4wd you can remove the busted cv and the front tailshaft. Just have to drive with the centre diff locked.
Easier if it's part time 4wd.

Wheel off, remove caliper, remove hub, undo wheel bearings, slid disc ass off, unbolt stub axle, slide cv and shaft out.

If it's got abs you'll find the cv has grooves around it for the abs sensor. Without the cv you'll probably get an abs warning light and the abs system might not work at all.

[zordo]

Don't too quick to buy a new CV more likely the front diff crown wheel.
If you think it is the RH CV remove it but spin the front diff before you fit a new CV just to check the diff.
I am on my fourth diff but no broken CVs yet
Cheers

[HiCountryCruisr]

To drive with a broken cv or crown wheel/pinion, remove front tailshaft, remove drive hubs and lock in centre diff. I agree with zordo, more likely a crown wheel and pinion. Mine broke before the cv also. To isolate the problem, remove both drive hubs, leave the centre diff UNLOCKED and put it gear while running. Wont go anywhere, but if its the diff it will make a banging/clunking sound. Get yourself a gregorys manual and you should be fine. Don't need special tools, just socket and spanner set and a pair of snap ring pliers. Hope this helps. Let us know how you go.

[100cruiser]

Thanks for the replies, will pull apart tomorrow and check the damage.

[100cruiser]

Pulled apart this morning and as zordo suggested it was not the CV. Also what i found was that unless the centre diff lock was on it wont go any where just spin the front tailshaft and thats with everything put back together. Will do some more investigating tomorrow, from what i can gather both axles are going to have to be removed before the diff centre can come out, might be a good time to con the missus into an air locker while it is pulled to pieces. Are there stronger front diff crown wheels out there or is it just a weak link in the 100's, surely they would be able to stand up to a bit more than i was giving it. Anyhow the diff will come apart tomorrow, good way to spend the RDO.
Craig

[BEU77Y]

Well worth putting a locker in at the same time. You will have to get both cv/shafts out to remove the pumpkin. You could put it partially back together if you had to keep driving it.
If you can do the remove and install it works out a heap cheaper for the locker install.
Pay the extra and get a genuine diff seal. Make a big difference.
Other things worth looking at while apart.

Wheel bearings $50 a corner.
Trunion bearing/seal kit $120. Replaces all the knuckle joint seals etc. and king pin bearings. Well worth doin if the car has a few k's on it.

I ended up doing all these thing at seperate times on my 80, what a pain to pull it all apart 3 times!

By the way the ARB air locker is the same as the front of the 80 series and rear of most Hilux's... might be able to get a second hand one?

[BEU77Y]

one more thing..... make sure you replace the little axle seal behind the cv...
It usually gets damaged when you take the shaft out, and with it gone oil gets into the cv grease and throws it all out the rear felt seal inside the rim. Messy and a full dismantle again fot a $10 seal.
They are in the trunion kit and wheel bearing kit.

[HiCountryCruisr]

Go for a terrain tamer crown wheel and pinion kit. $555.50 compared to toyotas just over $1000 for only crown wheel and pinion. They claim to be stronger than factory ones.

[100cruiser]

Well after pulling to pieces this is what the problem is.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/100cruiser/DSCF0765.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/100cruiser/DSCF0766.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj239/100cruiser/DSCF0767.jpg
Getting the diff centre out was not as hard as it looked just time consuming about 3 hrs. Probubly going to do all the seals and wheel bearings at the same time. Still working on the locker.
Craig

[jim0001]

Well after pulling to pieces this is what the problem is.

Getting the diff centre out was not as hard as it looked just time consuming about 3 hrs. Probubly going to do all the seals and wheel bearings at the same time. Still working on the locker.
Craig


Craig,

Sorry to see this. Can you remember exactly what you were doing at the second it broke? Would you have been reversing under load by chance?

Jim

[HiCountryCruisr]

Ouch!!! If you're doing the rebuild yourself, get a mechanic to set the bearing preload and backlash. Done two myself by feel as the mechanics weren't open on weekends, but a bit cautious on the test run. Getting it done properly just eliminates any errors I guess. Shouldn't cost any more than say $50. I'm with jim0001, curious to know if you were reversing under load when it happened. This is how many 100 series front diffs fail.

[12fishy]

Craig... Sorry to see the diff in souch a way, make sure to get the rest of the differental checked out for (hair line fractures).... also have a good check at the inner spline of your axles..
Good luck hope it does'nt hurt your back pocket too much..

cheers Fishy.

[100cruiser]

Wont be rebuilding myself but will be reinstalling, from memory it did let go whilst trying to reverse out of the bog, it was very rutted and no real wheel tracks to follow, just bouncing from rut to rut and with no locker drive was being thrown from wheel to wheel as each grabbed for traction.
For anyone wanting to know the complete replace of the crown wheel and pinion and a diff rebuild kit which is all the bearings and seals, gaskets was just over $800 including labour. Over all i would say it was a faily easy just time consuming as every thing had to be done twice, a bit of care taken to put back together and she'll be good as new, ready for LCMP on the week end for the Offroad expo.

[Richard]

I did my diff on Dusties down at Yawal 2 months ago. Lifted a spinning wheel and dropped it hard on a rock. The whole unit was replaced as a crown wheel tooth went through the diff housing. Also had front and rear lockers installed at the same time.
Three weeks later did a CV when I was seriously bogged near West Wallsend.

[BEU77Y]

I did my diff on Dusties down at Yawal 2 months ago. Lifted a spinning wheel and dropped it hard on a rock. The whole unit was replaced as a crown wheel tooth went through the diff housing. Also had front and rear lockers installed at the same time.
Three weeks later did a CV when I was seriously bogged near West Wallsend.

You had a go at Dusties without double difflocks.... holy crap, you got balls!:D
Saw some vids of it ages ago and it was nasty then... must be downright scary now.

BEE55T

[locktup4x4]

OUCH!!!! I dont think that will buff out.

Jason