5L-E Timing Belt

[als4b]

Hi Guys
Just a short Question in relation to my lux.In the past i have done my own timing belts but this will be the first one on this model as i have only owned it for a year.The lux has just come due for its 1st belt change and as i dont have a manual to reference to i,ve turned to the forum. Question being an L series motor do they have the same aligning marks as my old 2L. Any info would be helpful
Thanks Al

[crack]

mate not 100% sure but i think they are different. the timing marks on crank and cam should be pretty close to being the same but im sure the injector pump is different. on my model 3L (2.8) the pump timing mark is on the underside of the sprocket where i think the 5L is on top. i learnt the hardway someone marked mine wrong and i had severe diesel knock.

[als4b]

thanks mate i might give it a go today

[HiCountryCruisr]

Prick of a job in my old 2.8L hilux. Gotta pull everthing off just to change the belt. Radiator, A/C, power steering pump, alternator?, harmonic balancer. Worse if you had to change the pump though, it's behind the timing belt. Love the cruiser now, 10 minutes and its done.

[todd60]

same as a 3L

crank is on top. cant miss it

from there check the cam shoulb be bottom

and pump should be bottom aswell


put a bolt in the pump pulley to stop it turning. being on top dead the pump will want to pull on oway or the other

[dakar61]

<quote same as a 3L

crank is on top. cant miss it

from there check the cam shoulb be bottom

and pump should be bottom aswell


put a bolt in the pump pulley to stop it turning. being on top dead the pump will want to pull on oway or the other quote>



If its the same as the 3L, as you say, the reference mark for the pump sprocket should be on top, that is, at 12 o`clock, when the the crank sprocket mark is at 12 and the cam sprocket mark is at 6 o`clock.

Thats how a 3L & 5L is belt timed anyway.

I`d be suprised if the 5LE was any different...

[894runa]

Prick of a job in my old 2.8L hilux. Gotta pull everthing off just to change the belt. Radiator, A/C, power steering pump, alternator?, harmonic balancer. Worse if you had to change the pump though, it's behind the timing belt. Love the cruiser now, 10 minutes and its done.

Jeez I think you're making too much of a mission of it. I can do mine with the radiator still in, pwr steering pump you don't have to touch at all apart from taking the drivebelt off, alternator same story.The a/c compressor you just undo the four bolts and sit it on top of the valve cover.

Doesn't the "E" in 5L - E mean that the fuel pump is electronic? So it won't be running on the timing belt and mechanical like the L up to 5L motors have? Someone will know.

[als4b]

thanks everyone still havn't done it even tho its electronic i think its basic and the pump still creates its pressure from the timing belt not sure just a guess, if there is an easier way to do the belt i'm all for it in the past on the 2L i took everything off. ANZAC w/end is coming so i'll do it then plus a couple of problem wheel studs dont you just love saving money by doing it yourself
thanks AL

[Spoony's Nightmare]

hmm yea it needs doing on my 2L...
i'm a bit too scared to attempt it tho.. it will be by far the hardest thing i've ever done... and i'm just worried i might screw it up.... my workshop manual is pretty light on instructions...

anybody know of a website with detailed pics and stuff on how to change one??

[894runa]

Timing Belt (http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/timingbelt.htm)

Also has links to the factory service manual for this job.

Its really not hard, I was like you, it seemed too daunting to begin with. I was lucky that I had a friend who was a mechanic to help do the belt the first time round but even he had never done one before but had a rough idea. Its just a bit slow, there's a fair bit of stuff to remove to get at the belt.

Probably the biggest hurdle you will face is getting the crankshaft pulley bolt undone. If you are going to do it yourself hit it with everything you've got a week or two before like WD40, or there's some spray for frozen or stuck bolts out now. Just when you have a spare moment each day go out and give it a spray.

[als4b]

Good link armed with this it will be done on the w/end I don't mind having a go thanks

[sexylux]

the 'L' series are all pretty much the same. Marks on cam, injector pump and crank sprocket are easily visible. top radiator hose comes off, crack the nuts holding the viscous fan and remove drive belts, fan and radiator shroud. sumtimes the biggest issue is cracking the harmonic balancer pulley. undo the 4 bolts holding the outer pulleys on the balancer and the bolt is exposed. put a breaker bar and socket (19mm) on the bolt near the passenger side chassis rail and flick the key, usually loosens. puller usually required to remove balancer. no real need to remove the a/c bracket, just remove the small guide pulley and the cover can be manouvered out. just watch the injector pump, it will flick back once the timing belt has been removed. will need to hold in place while installing new belt. rotate using the crank a couple of times with new belt on and correct tension to make sure marks line up again. Have fun!

[Spoony's Nightmare]

Timing Belt (http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/timingbelt.htm)

Also has links to the factory service manual for this job.

Its really not hard, I was like you, it seemed too daunting to begin with. I was lucky that I had a friend who was a mechanic to help do the belt the first time round but even he had never done one before but had a rough idea. Its just a bit slow, there's a fair bit of stuff to remove to get at the belt.

Probably the biggest hurdle you will face is getting the crankshaft pulley bolt undone. If you are going to do it yourself hit it with everything you've got a week or two before like WD40, or there's some spray for frozen or stuck bolts out now. Just when you have a spare moment each day go out and give it a spray.

cheers dude.. yeah i might give it a go when i have a spare few days in the coming months... at least i have no air con or power steering so there is less to remove to get at it.

[894runa]

at least i have no air con or power steering so there is less to remove to get at it.

Ok that makes it a bit easier.

A few other things you should do or consider doing whilst you are in there:

- front crankshaft seal, timing belt off, remove crankshaft pulley gear, seal is behind that.
- camshaft seal
- timing belt tensioner. If it feels rough or loose or sounds gritty when you spin it then the bearing is stuffed and needs replacing.
- timing belt idler gear bearing. Can renew with a whole new idler gear (saw on ebay once for $55) or take the gear off and into a bearing shop to get a new bearing put in.

These L series motors will self - destruct if the timing belt snaps or belt running gear lets go, as the valves will smash into the pistons.

[als4b]

I had one let go on a previous dual cab with no warning noise nothing motor still ran but was noisey used oil drove itfor a week till the next 4b turned up

[Sic Lux]

After the 2.8 they went to a 150 thousand k interval there ok to do another thing is make sure you get the harmonic ballancer upto correct torque mate of mine at engine reco shop is saying there getting a heap through that flog the keyway out and need the crank fixing or replacing or like the people that done my 80 series rebuild they didn't tighten up the ballencer bolt up tight enough and it actualy broke the harmonic ballancer bent key and mega floged keyway out 2months off the road and over 1Grand later it was fixed with doing all the labour myself. to turn the light off there is a screw that needs to be swaped over behind the dash peice of piss one you've done it once

[Boss330]

I just did mine last week (5LE). pretty much everything has already been said, but i would recommend changing the waterpump, tensioner assembly and idler while your at it. For the sake of a couple of hundred bucks saves having to pull everything apart again. I also pulled the radiator out completely, the extra room makes it a lot easier to do. Took me about 5 hours drive in- drive out.

Like mentioned, the injection pump pulley will rotate anti clockwise about one tooth when the belt is removed, just make sure you line the timing marks up while fitting the belt. I would recommend getting a gregory's manual from supercheap, made the job a whole lot less daunting.