Swivel Hub Shim Adjustment-your Best Method

[andyjim243]

I want a good yet simple method of resetting the swivel hub height so the axle runs as true as possible through the inner axle seal.I have completely rebuilt the entire front axle assembly,so normally I would just put them back the same way they came apart,BUT 1.the seals were leaking badly
2.the front end has clearly been apart before,so the shims could have been put anywhere.
The truck is a HJ61, 12H-T.
As it came apart,only the lower king pin caps have shims fitted.

Discuss


Cheers Andy

[Bernz]

set them up with shims top and bottom as evenly as possible and use a set of fish scales where your tie rod end goes through the upper arm until you get optimum preload as quoted in the manual.

Hope that makes sense. Cheers

[andyjim243]

G'day Bernz,
That's exactly what I normally do,I just wanted to know of any more accurate ways of centring the axle to the seal.
Something like a clutch aligning tool of sorts that you could centre from the hub bolt holes into the seal ID.
Thanks for your input mate

Cheers Andy

Maybe I should make one...................

[andyjim243]

Come on you lot! There must be someone with a little trick or technique!

[trains]

It could be that the shims are ok, and that the problem lies in the axle bush that the cv fits into, wear there will flog out the seal due to the whipping action of the axle as the cv is not held captive when it rotates.

If they are ok, then find the center of the seal, fit some masking tape over the seal, and clearly mark the center, then fit the axle, and view with it straight as to the center. You will be able to see if its high or low by getting a good centered eye in the axle tube.
You could also turn down a wooden dowel with a pin in the end of it so that it went thru the axle bush, and left a mark on the tape, from there you can shim accordingly.

Yer I know its rough, but its as close as your gunna get without the special tools.


Edited to Add.

I just realised that there are camber angles to take into account, and Kpi as well, and that the dowel thru the center of the cv bush in the axle may give an incorrect reading, as it will be lower if the camber is exccessivly high.
I have always looked at the seal to see where its worn to, and shim accordingly to that.
Most I have come across have had the bush flogged out, and causing the seal to wear all around, and have just re used the existing shim pack, and gotten great preload right in the middle of the specs.
Check the shim pack top to bottom, and let us know the readings for them.

Trains

[joel hj60]

There is a Toyota SST (Special Service Tool) to do the job. I've never seen it but would like to know if it made much difference then just setting the preload with the fish scale, which I use also. I also apply some bearing mount gooo to the outside of the inner axle seal to make sure it dosn't some out.

[andyjim243]

Trains and Joel,
Thanks for your input. He's what i've done.
all the old shims went over my left shoulder and I started again.
Old shim settings WERE *LEFT top 1.3mm bottom 1mm
*RIGHT top 1.3mm bottom zero
I replaced both stub axle bushes as they were destroyed when the cv's let go.Made up a jig that bolted to the stub face on the swivel hub and just sighted the centre mark on the tape I put over the inner axle seal (thanks trains) A bit like sighting the cross hairs on a scope to the rifles point of aim.
I did this with the aim of trying to get the same shim size top and bottom whilst maintaining axle centre and setting preload.I got there in the end and ended up with 0.95mm shims all round (which was a surprise) with 3.5kgs preload on the right and 4.5kgs on the left.
I am happy with this, as specs for my model are 3 to 6kgs.Any of the shims that were thinner made the preload to high,so I preferred the bearings to be on the free side rather than to tight and damaging the new bearings.
Any comments
Cheers Andy

[trains]

Hi Andy,

There is a good chance that when any work was done on this before, they put the shims back as they found them.

So assuming this, you have moved them down .35 of a mm, which is not a great deal.

As mentioned, your best bet is to refit them with the same shims, check for preload, and go from there.
From what you have described, your problem of axle seals leaking was from the flogged out bushes, which you replaced, and not axle alignment.

If it was me, I would have put them back the way I found them, and checked for preload, however, now armed with those measurements, if you find that the seal leaks again, you can put it back to what it was, and then see how you go.

Good work, thanks for letting us know how you got on.

Trains

[locktup4x4]

Did you check the preload with the stub shaft out and the felt off. Use the bottom for centering and the top for setting preload.

It looks like you already whipped it.

Jason

[60 Jake]

Hi all new to this thread and am doing swivel hub seal kit very soon on HJ60. What is preload and will i encounter all this with the shims setting etc doing seasl kit. It has K.P.bearings in the kit so is it straight forward should i put knew wheel bearings in at the same time or if mine are good just leave them?

[locktup4x4]

This is a good way for you to learn how to rebuild your front end. At home and not on the trail. Preload is the amount force it takes to turn the knuckle with no stub shaft or felt/rubber seals on. You can use a fish scale to measure the weight. 12 to 15 pounds is where I set my preload.

Jason

[60 Jake]

O.k Jason thats great do i need to worry about shims etc ina swivel hub seal kit and do u reckon do new wheell bearings at the same time?

[locktup4x4]

If you have allot of mile on it than why not do the wheel bearings. A little preventive maintenance will go along ways. All of the knuckle service kits I've seen come with shims.

Jason

[60 Jake]

Okay are the shims hard to set up and get right .Sorry for all the questions but am trying to save myself 900 big ones. Ive done my wheel bearings before so thats not a prob. Also my car has a 40/45 series rear diff in it and am going to swapo it for a 60 which is full floating and a lot stronger and better in the long run,do you know of anyone who would buy a 45 rear diff and what do you think its worth?

[Lugh]

When i rebuilt the front end of my 60, it was just a case of guestimating how many shims to begin with (start loose so you don't overload the bearings and damage them) and adjusting the shims evenly top and bottom until i reached the preload stated in the manual. (Pre oct '84: 1.8kg - 3.8kg Post Oct '84 models: 3.0kg - 6.0kg)
It does mean that you have to pull off the swivel hub a couple of times, but it worked for me.

[D Hall]

There is in the Toyota work shop manual that I have a correct and simple method for centering the axle.It would require some simple bits to be made.
Cheers Hall

[trains]

Hi DHall,

Could you scan them a little larger, I cant read the print on those you have posted.
or pm me and email them to me please.

Thanks

Trains