Service?

[mike_hill2107]

Hi just wanting to do my 5,000km service on my 1990 4Runner 2.8D. I've never had a 4wd before so just wondering what I need and what I need to do? Does anyone recommend a perticular oil? Also is it a good idea every 10,000kms to take it to the mechanic or jsut do it myself?

Thanks

[nilla60]

Buy a workshop manual, the first chapter has everything you need to know to do a routine service. useful for many other things besides. I only take my diesel fourby to a mechanic when routine servicing shows up some issue I can't or won't fix myself. If you can buy oil in bulk, you can save a lot (I have a 200 litre drum out the back shed). Key thing is to remeber to check wear & tear items and grease things as well as just changing the oil.

Some assistance for the first couple of times is well worth it, to fill in the blanks that are assumed in the manual and to advise on what things should & shouldn't look like.

When I worked for a survey agancy, staff were expected to head to the works depot and change their own oil.

BTW, try not to spill used diesel oil on the driveway unless you like dark black splotches.

[rumpig]

the buying of a manual is a good idea, i could never remember how many ltrs of oil to put back in so looked it up everytime i did it. with my old lux i used to change the oil and the filter every 5000 klm myself and occasionally when i remembered i'd do the air and fuel filters (should have done them more often then i did). after that when something else needed attention (usually when it stopped working) i'd take it to a mechanic.
in the sunvisor of my lux was a card showing where the grease nipples were in the driveline, some where sealed and didn't actually exist but most of them were there. good idea to do these regularly, especially if you have been driving in water and mud. like already said buy you oil in bulk, i used to buy it in a 20 ltr drum, doing 5000 klm services will use that up pretty quickly.
that should be a start for you, after that you might want to change the diff oils and gearbox and transfer case oils just so you know when it was last done.

[roscoFJ73]

Hi just wanting to do my 5,000km service on my 1990 4Runner 2.8D. I've never had a 4wd before so just wondering what I need and what I need to do? Does anyone recommend a perticular oil? Also is it a good idea every 10,000kms to take it to the mechanic or jsut do it myself?

Thanks

Toyota 20/50 diesel oil is what I have been using. Its only a dollar or 2 more for 5 litres over the Castrol GTX Diesel oil I was using.
I wouldn't use Toyota's oil that is for diesel and petrol engines,I think its a bit light duty for a 2.8.

As the other guys have said,get a manual,either a Gregorys or a used factory manual from eBay(new FSMs are expensive)

When you look through the manual you will realise just how much money you can save on servicing.
When you feel you and your tool collection have reach their limits,take it to a mechanic.
Mechanics tend to be a bit more honest with people who know their vehicle;)

[894runa]

You have picked a good vehicle as your first 4wd, especially to learn some mechanical maintenance on as they're pretty simple and pretty durable.

The critical thing to do every 5,000 km for the 2.8D is new oil and filter. I use Mobil Synth S in mine, have done for the last 92,000 kms and 5 yrs with no dramas or oil leaks. Some might say this oil's a bit light at 10W - 40, but as I said I've had no problems. Just buy the best oil you can afford.

If you have only just bought the car, you may also want to consider changing the gearbox, transfer case and diff oils if you don't know the service history. And run around with the grease gun. These are often neglected items. Very easy to do, easier than the engine oil as they don't have filters, although I would recommend you get a oil syringe to do the job (available from supercheap) and always make sure that you can undo the filler plugs first before you drain the oil out!

Other than that, its pretty much a case of fixing things up as they break or wear out. I wouldn't bother taking the car in for a once-over at the mechanics every 10,000 unless you are really worried about the thing or you have cash to burn. Generally they run fine provided that you change the oil and filters regularly. It is recommended that the fuel injectors and pump be looked at and brought back to spec every 100,000 kms but there are plenty of 2.8s around that wouldn't have had this done and still running ok. Might need to look at this if you blow a lot of smoke or starts or runs roughly. Glow plugs are another thing although with summer now here the symptoms of a dud plug might be less obvious.

You might also want to check the front wheel bearings: jack the front wheels up off the ground, one hand on bottom of tyre and the other on the top and try to push on the wheel with your bottom hand at the same time as pulling with your top hand. Any play could mean the bearings are at least loose, if not cactus. You won't know actual bearing condition unless you strip down the wheel hub though. Symptoms for loose bearings are vibrations in the steering or if the brakes need repeated applications to work, so if you experience any of this it could be a good place to start.

One little tip I would say is to make sure you keep the front bash plate splash guard thingy on especially if you do regular offroading. It does help a bit in reducing muddy water or mud thats thrown around when you go offroad. Dirty water does its best to get into things like alternators and crankshaft oil seals with obvious consequences.

For offroading modifications, I would go straight to front and rear autolockers and a 2 inch suspension lift with 31 inch tyres which you can do for around $1,800 excluding tyres. 31s you can pick up second hand pretty easily through ebay or for sale sections in forums like this. Then you have a pretty wicked car.

I've done all of the above and now looking into crawler gears. But I don't think I will be able to do it.

[mike_hill2107]

Thanks a lot for the tips guys. I'll give it a shot in a couple of weeks. I bought some oil the other day. It's Nulon 15W-40. Is that a good oil. I wanted to get a really good oil. Only $10 more than the Castrol. It apparently reduces friction by 20%. Is this a good oil to get?

[894runa]

Is that the "High Protection Diesel Formula" one? Yeah that would be fine. As I said, the main thing is to make sure you change the oil and filter regularly.

Just remember a decent quality known brand name oil should generally be fine too, like Castrol GTX diesel or Mobil 4X4. I don't think there's a huge deal of difference between the lot of them. I mean how can you go to Castrol's site, select 4runner 2.8D and get 6 different recommendations for the engine oil! A lot of the words on the label of the bottle are the courtesy of the company's marketing department. The top one is the Magnatec friction additive blah blah blah, which should read "If you like to stress about what's in your engine and don't care about cost, buy this one!" The bottom one is Castrol Agri Super which should read "For farmers who aren't interested in marketing spin and want to buy in bulk to save, buy this!"

I would have much more faith in a 2.8D that's had regular oil changes with a decent middle of the road oil and been driven within its limits, rather than a 2.8D thats lubed with Mobil 1 but always run "pedal to the metal".

Remember that you are dropping the oil out every 5,000 kms or 3 months so pouring in really expensive stuff is a bit of waste. Also, this motor's not exactly cutting edge, runs by mechanical injection and a bit of wire rope from the accelerator pedal.

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

.......
in the sunvisor of my lux was a card showing where the grease nipples were in the driveline, some where sealed and didn't actually exist but most of them were there. good idea to do these regularly, especially if you have been driving in water and mud.
......


What is often the case with these sealed or phantom grease nipples is that if the manufacturer had left the nipple in place it would most likely be damaged or broken off during normal driving. Or it could be that the grease nipple was too much of a contamination risk and potentially it would allow dirt or water into something that simply could not tolerate such contaminants!

So in most cases where the service schedule calls for an item to be greased and when you go to the indicated greasing spot you find a small bolt inserted where there should be a grease nipple, you are meant to:
remove the plug,
screw in a nipple,
grease the item,
remove the nipple, and
replace the plug!!
Seems to be a common misconception that if it's got a plug it means that it's sealed and it doesn't need greasing, when in fact it is probably more in need of greasing than anything left with the grease nipple exposed! So if you find a plug instead of a grease nipple, make sure you grease it AT LEAST at the indicated scheduled intervals, if not more often, especially when you drive in dust, mud, and water often!!

Carry a few spare grease nipples in one of the change holder slots in the car, they will always be handy then, and any time you slip under the car with a grease gun, take a small spanner and a grease nipple too!

Cheers!

[Kerri]

Hi Guys,

My first post in a forum ever, but I'm wondering what do you do with the used oil? I know you can't pour it down the drain. Had a friend who painted his wooden house with used machine oil, but I don't think used car oil looks too cool on a brick appartment :p. Is there an "official" way to dispose of it?

Thanks for all the good info...

Kerri

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

Yep, Kerri, there is an 'official' way to get rid of used engine oil!

Firstly, your local servo might take it from you (or at least let you deposit it with them). They collect all the oil they get from oil changes etc and store it until it gets collected from them in turn to go off for recycling. But there are some local council variations in the deal, so some servo's get charged to have someone come and collect the oil and take it away, while others actually get paid for the amount of oil they send in for recycling! So if you are in an area where the servo's hafta pay, they probly won't want your waste oils , or will ask you to pay for the privilege. If that's the case, the local council Waste Transfer Station should have a collection site for used oils. Again, some of them actually pay you for the oil you bring, while others make you pay for the honour of helping them make money!

Regardless, it all gets collected and eventually makes its way to a variety of recycling processes. Some gets back into the petroleum business, and gets added back into the raw crude for refineries, some gets used as furnace fuel oil or bunker oil if you like - it gets burnt at high temp powering something, some gets into the rubber and petrochemical recycling process and makes its way back into the fresh air as recycled sandals, door mats, Bushranger Track mats, even things like MaxTrax have a component of used oil in their make-up! And there is helluva lot more in the vast range of stuff that recycled oil gets into, worthwhile spending some time chasing one day, to see where your waste oil actually goes.

In the meantime, collect your used oil and get it into your nearest recycling collection spot; your local servo or the nearest waste transfer station.

[Kerri]

Thanks Peter!

[rumpig]

What is often the case with these sealed or phantom grease nipples is that if the manufacturer had left the nipple in place it would most likely be damaged or broken off during normal driving. Or it could be that the grease nipple was too much of a contamination risk and potentially it would allow dirt or water into something that simply could not tolerate such contaminants!

So in most cases where the service schedule calls for an item to be greased and when you go to the indicated greasing spot you find a small bolt inserted where there should be a grease nipple, you are meant to:
remove the plug,
screw in a nipple,
grease the item,
remove the nipple, and
replace the plug!!
Seems to be a common misconception that if it's got a plug it means that it's sealed and it doesn't need greasing, when in fact it is probably more in need of greasing than anything left with the grease nipple exposed! So if you find a plug instead of a grease nipple, make sure you grease it AT LEAST at the indicated scheduled intervals, if not more often, especially when you drive in dust, mud, and water often!!

Carry a few spare grease nipples in one of the change holder slots in the car, they will always be handy then, and any time you slip under the car with a grease gun, take a small spanner and a grease nipple too!

Cheers!hey pete, second time today i've learnt something from reading your posts. never saw any broken off ones, i just went on what i'd previously been told. guess it just shows how tough hilux's are, cause i had that vehicle for a long time and never touched those ones i thought were sealed, vehicle did plenty of mud, dust and beach work all over australia aswell.

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

Yeah rumpig, they are pretty good in that department, aren't they?!

Just like the OE steering arms on Patrols. Their tie-rod ends are blanked off in the factory, and I suspect that very few actually get greased at the indicated service periods, but they take a caning and are way out there in the mud and goop and dust and rocks etc, just keep on taking it! Only time most people do anything is when the rubber boot is split or ground away on a rock, then they think about getting a new end!

Cheers!

[mike_hill2107]

Just picked up my Haynes service manual. Just a question on when to do the oil change. The Haynes manual says every 6000kms but everyone seems to be saying 5000kms. Is 6000kms the actual kms that the oil should be changed? I want to look after my car as best I can but in saying that I don't want to unnecessarily be changing my oil before I need to.

Thanks

[Andrew8683]

change the oil no more than every 5000 kms and you will have a friend for life , my old 2.8 lux ticked over 435,000 and the motor has never been opened and runs like new (sort of lol) , as engines go they they are one dirty little bugger and they can turn new oil into sludge in no time

[Luxxxy]

I just changed the oil and filter out my 95 the other day, and to my surprise the manual says that the engine takes 6 litres with a new filter. It also says to fill the new filter with some new oil before you replace it. I used Shell Diesel which I think is 15W-40. Next time i'll look at using 20W-50 to increase protection due to the engine having 300,000 on it.

[nilla60]

Filling the filter with oil means the oil line pressurises before the low pressure switch cuts it out. Otherwise you need to start the motor twice before oil gets all the way through.

I've heard from a few people thast the 'lux 2.8D has small galleries that clog up pretty easily so it's very important to stiick to the 5k interval.

[robe0455]

I just bought a used 4runner with 375,000 kms. As I didnt know the vehicle history I set about changing all the fluids. Chose to use Penrite. Costs a bit more but if it gives a bit more life then probably worth it. They do a nice thick diesel specific oil which is meant to be good for engines with high kays. Also did gearbox, transfer case, brake fluid, front and rear diff.

Getting the fuel filter done when the bus goes in to get tuned/dynoed next week, and looking into airfilters at the moment.

Then when I have a spare couple of days Im going to do the swivel hub seals (inner and outer), wheel bearings, disc rotors and pads and drum linings.

Also bought a grease gun and pumped through fresh grease. I pumped this untill the fresh stuff started coming out of the seals. I know this may be bad form but some greases cant be mixed and now I know exactly where my truck is at!

With regular servicing I (should hope) theres no dramas in the future! Do it well the first time!

Cheers,

Mark

[roscoFJ73]

Just picked up my Haynes service manual. Just a question on when to do the oil change. The Haynes manual says every 6000kms but everyone seems to be saying 5000kms. Is 6000kms the actual kms that the oil should be changed? I want to look after my car as best I can but in saying that I don't want to unnecessarily be changing my oil before I need to.

Thanks

6000klms would be Toyota's recommendation. 1000 klms isn't going to make a big difference anyway.
Do them at 5000 and if sometimes your busy,you can let them stretch to 6000 and feel comfortable about it ;)

[A1 Mech]

I use penrite HPR diesel 20-60 on my 2.8D turbo 4runner. Costs a little bit more but Ive run penrite everywhere in my cars and its never failed me. Its nice and thick to which helps stop minor oil leaks. I have never filled the oil filter on the 2.8D b4 install as it runs out everyhwere by the time u manouver it into place (especially that I hav a turbo slung ova it). The oil pressure staggers for a second then regulates to normal. I normally just pour 5L in as its easier then buying an extra litre, reads above full on the dipstick anyhow. Everytime I do an oil change I usually go to woolys and buy a homebrand 20-50w oil and 2x engine oil flushs, throw a flsuh in the old oil then drain, throw the cheap oil in with the 2nd bottle of flsuh and repeat then drain for ages then add ur good oil (usually keeps the oil clean for a week or two.)

a tip for when u tackle the diffs and gearbox, dont loose ur patience when the diff/gearbox plugs wont budge lol. get a 24mm 15/16 socket and a lump hammer, give the socket handle a whack and it shud come loose (never swing off it with a lever as the shitty plug heads will round off). If the diff oil is pretty old it may pay to refill with sum cheap engine oil and a bit of kero or oil flush and go for a lap around town then drain and add sum good thick LSD oil. give ur diff and gearbox breathers a twist to make sure ther clear (blocked breathers can blow axle seals). Driveshafts r straight forward, just pump fresh grease in till the old crap is expelled. Cheers