best mods to improve fuel economy

[jay.82]

i've recently bought a 80 series petrol auto and was wondering what would be some good mods to make to improve the fuel economy as it is currently running at 20L / 100km

[croatian4x4]

prob a full service, all oils and filters including air!! Then you can start doing something like a set of extractors and zorst which should slightly increase economy.

Also a piece of wood shaped into a wedge to sit under your accellerator will stop you putting your foot to the floow and saves heaps of fuel!! AHAHA ****only a joke*****

[rocks]

Yeah i'd go the full service. I replaced my air filter with an ITG filter and replaced my o2 sensor as it was stuffed .and it helped with fuel economy

[Muckinhell]

Get rid of any unecessary weight out of the vehicle....when i take off campin in my 80 (diesel though) i take out the rear main passenger seat and it weighs a ton i reckon and am left with more storage area for the soft stuff like pillows clothes bags etc etc...

[Urshtnme]

I was told with my 100 Series, get a K&N filter, snorkel and 3 inch exhaust.

I know for a fact that the Hiclone and Vaporate fuel savers do sweet bugger all so forget those ideas!

[Brad.S]

I have just had my GXL converted to part time, on gas I've picked up about 50k's to a tank.

[jay.82]

[quote=Brad.S;554074]I have just had my GXL converted to part time,

yeah thats what im thinking of doing first as its going to save more than just fuel aswell

[toy yoda]

going part time can only be a good think as said save fuel, but save on other things like cv's and tyre wear.

extractors and a good 2 1/2 (min) exhaust will help in 2 ways 1) better flow increases fuel ecconomy and 2) the exhaust increases power and performance out of a vehicle thus reducing the amout of loud pedal!

[bloke76]

put some skinny tyres/split rims on if you are really worried, they will save you about 50km per tank. don't look real nice and handle like crap but save you cash on fuel. if you have a roof rack, take it off unless using it.
In my 100s petrol/gas i lost about 70km per tank of gas with bigger tyres, 2 in suspension and roofrack.

[Brad.S]

Fuel saving wasn't just my motive for the conversion. The car is lighter in the steering and easier to drive, it climbs hills alot easier, plus no more wear and tear on the front end driveline. From a country trip yesterday it looks like I will have picked up nearly 100k's to the tank of gas. I was constainly taking my foot off the pedal to slow the car down as it kept creeping up to 120 with no problems, it fact it was quiet happy to sit there.

[Gooch]

put some skinny tyres/split rims on if you are really worried, they will save you about 50km per tank. don't look real nice and handle like crap but save you cash on fuel. if you have a roof rack, take it off unless using it.
In my 100s petrol/gas i lost about 70km per tank of gas with bigger tyres, 2 in suspension and roofrack.

When you say you lost 70kms due to bigger tyres have u taken in account for the larger rolling diameter ?

[CCoast Phil]

put some skinny tyres/split rims on if you are really worried, they will save you about 50km per tank. don't look real nice and handle like crap but save you cash on fuel. if you have a roof rack, take it off unless using it.
In my 100s petrol/gas i lost about 70km per tank of gas with bigger tyres, 2 in suspension and roofrack.
I have Rola racks that I leave on . Do you think removing these would make much difference?

[Marc 1]

I have Rola racks that I leave on . Do you think removing these would make much difference?

Not trying to be a smartar$e here, but take them off and find out (only way you'll really know). Anything that creates additional drag and frontal area will impact your fuel economy, as will the additional weight of the bars, the question is "how much?". I have a pair of very aero shaped bars that go between my roof rails on the Subie, they are alumnium and weigh bugger all. Unless I'm carrying something on the bars they live in my shed (less chance of getting flogged off my car too - if they get them in my shed then I've got bigger problems to worry about).

[spanna chucka]

tire pressure play a big part, remember when you were a kid? how hard was it to ride your pushie when the tires were spongy? pump them up rock hard and it was heaps easier to ride, same goes for your car.... well sorta! I run my hilux on 45psi and it steers a bit easier handles better and gets about 50 km extra per tank compared to the standard 32psi that they were inflated to before hand.
A part time kit is a good way to reduce consumption too.
check wheel bearings for stiffness and brakes for drag and the handbrake could be binding causing grag too good luck nothing sucks more than paying extra for juice that goes nowhere

[CCoast Phil]

Not trying to be a smartar$e here, but take them off and find out (only way you'll really know). Anything that creates additional drag and frontal area will impact your fuel economy, as will the additional weight of the bars, the question is "how much?". I have a pair of very aero shaped bars that go between my roof rails on the Subie, they are alumnium and weigh bugger all. Unless I'm carrying something on the bars they live in my shed (less chance of getting flogged off my car too - if they get them in my shed then I've got bigger problems to worry about).
Yep fair enough. I took them off. If they're not on they can't produce drag :) . There's not much difference but it can't be worse. I run my tyres at 39psi and I'm sure that saves fuel.

[uwishuhadalandy]

Buy a diesel!

[v6hilux]

Good things mentioned here, remove the golf clubs or whatever, skiney tyres, 45PSI in tyres, remove wind resistance item like roof racks, part time 4wd, engine oil regularly changed, LPG conversion Save 40% per Km in fuel costs plus look ahead - roll up to red lights and stopped cars, if your driving on a long straight road, look at the terrain and if possible, use momentum with the clutch in or in nuetral to coast down hills, try lifting the foot off the accelerator a fraction to a point where the speed don't change. If towing an empty trailer with a gate and no tarp, this can use as much fuel as a fully loaded trailer. Take the gate off or drop it to save fuel, reposition the number plate - what a difference that makes.

[CCoast Phil]

Yep I use neutral alot ( with my Commodore Wagon as well ) and this helps. There are plenty of road sections where you can coast on down in neutral. I have wondered if this adds wear and tear on the Auto transmission though?
I steered away from LPG 'cause each time I asked someone who had it they were getting about 60% of the milage that I was. When you take into account 70c/L for LPG versus $1.35 for unleaded there's not much difference plus a lot of fuel stops that waste time and cost me in icy poles etc :) .
Have tried the E10 unleaded and found I use 15% more fuel ( with only a 3c/L saving- rip off ) so have gone back to normal unleaded ( premium seems to make no difference ).
I stick with the book servicing and change oil ( Magnatec ) every 5000K and filter every 10K. My cruiser's done 150K without a hitch ( except for electric antenna ).
I am real interested in Brad S solution of going Part Time. How much does this cost? Would Toyota do it or is it better to ask a 4WD specialist workshop?

[v6hilux]

I am real interested in Brad S solution of going Part Time. How much does this cost? Would Toyota do it or is it better to ask a 4WD specialist workshop?

You have now reached a point where you either research it, invest some time and get dirty and do it yourself cheap or "book it in" and pay TOP DOLLAR! Your call!

The internet is the place to find free info for DIY!

If you cant go the extra 1 hour research and work the tools, then you better "book it in".

[CCoast Phil]

Fair enough. I thought these forums were here to discuss these things so all can benefit?

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

CCoast Phil, most auto transmissions won't be circulating any trans fluid when you are in neutral, and since they use that fluid as coolant and lubricant, that means lots of BAD WEAR! There is a reason that all the owners manuals and workshop manuals and towing instructions tell you to ensure that you don't tow an auto vehicle with it's drive wheels on the ground but without the engine running, unless the driveshaft is removed, the turning wheels will turn the workings of the auto, but unless the gearbox is in Drive or Reverse and being driven it means there is no lubricant or coolant being circulated! And that's NOT GOOD!

So in a Nutshell, DO NOT coast your Auto in Neutral for anything, unless of course you are keen to destroy the auto?! Coasting your auto in neutral doesn't just add wear and tear, it DESTROY's auto's!

[CCoast Phil]

Thanks for this info. Much appreciated.

[v6hilux]

DO NOT coast your Auto in Neutral for anything, unless of course you are keen to destroy the auto?! Coasting your auto in neutral doesn't just add wear and tear, it DESTROY's auto's!

my advise about coasting was intended for manuals in mind, not an auto!

Autos suck big time!

I prefer never to own one!

But Peter is incorrect to some degree!

As long as the engine is running in neutral, torque converter will turn the primary oil pump creating positive pressure lubrication in the transmission.

So if you need an auto towed with the driven wheels on the ground and as long as the engine can be started, it can be towed or coasted.

As far as I was aware, that warning is only applicable to vehicles with the engine not running, as no lubrication will be available and friction parts will burn.

[CCoast Phil]

Thanks v6hilux. I feel a little better now! That's why I ask you guys. You know more than me.

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

my advise about coasting was intended for manuals in mind, not an auto!

Autos suck big time!

I prefer never to own one!

But Peter is incorrect to some degree!

As long as the engine is running in neutral, torque converter will turn the primary oil pump creating positive pressure lubrication in the transmission.

So if you need an auto towed with the driven wheels on the ground and as long as the engine can be started, it can be towed or coasted.

As far as I was aware, that warning is only applicable to vehicles with the engine not running, as no lubrication will be available and friction parts will burn.

You gotta be a little careful here, v6hilux, cos what you pointed out only applies to SOME auto's!! There are more than just a couple of autos out there that don't circulate fluid unless you are in Drive or Reverse! But if you check your glovebox handbook/manual, you should be able to see fairly quickly if you can get away with it, they usually have a fairly clear statement in the auto section and again alongside the towing bit!

In the meantime, you are just waaayyy better off to NEVER coast your auto in Neutral!

Just as an aside, there are also a couple of states that have legislation deeming it illegal to 'coast' your car regardless, be it manual or auto!

Cheers!

[steveandviv]

Hey make sure you wash the mud off. I reckon it cost me 50Bucks a tank in weight and drag (not that drag:-) Ha Ha.

[v6hilux]

You gotta be a little careful here, v6hilux, cos what you pointed out only applies to SOME auto's!!

Ok, I'm at a loss, which auto trannies do not have the crank (via flex plate - torque converter fingers) driven oil pump to supply hydraulic oil for lubrication and operation to the entire transmission and how are those transmissions supplied with the hydraulic oil for operation and lubrication?

I know a vehicle lifted by a tow truck is exempt, as the oil may not be available to the pick up in the auto sump!

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

The best advice that can be given to any auto driver who feels the need to coast in neutral is for them to carefully read their vehicle handbooks, particularly with regard to operation and use of the auto and to towing!

Before beginning a training session for any vehicle that I am not specifically familiar with, let alone for any auto equipped vehicles, I read the glovebox manual for that vehicle. Many auto's have warnings regarding coasting or flat towing in neutral, as well as warning regarding towing with the drive wheels on the ground! If your particular handbook suggests that you shouldn't use neutral in such a manner, I'd be wary of doing anything other than what's recommended, regardless of what anyone on this forum or any other forum suggests!

[CCoast Phil]

Thanks for everyones input here. It is appreciated and I've learnt a bit.
Fyi. The manual states for towing by a truck use a Towing Dolly for front or rear wheels. For Towing by another vehicle it states put in Neutral, Centre Diff off, key in ACC or ON.
I've emailed Toyota earlier today but I expect them to go with the cautious advice answer. I've shifted my car and 4WD to neutral to coast when possible for the last 5 years without incident. I was interested in extra wear from shifting from D to N and back again but the car's travelled 276K and the 4WD has travelled 150K so I'm not too concerned.
To be honest I'm not sure how much fuel it saves although the engine gets a rest ( lower revs ) and I figure it's not using more fuel!

By the way next time you're stuck in an isolated place make sure you "contact your Toyota Dealer or Commercial Tow Truck Service for assistance." :)

[Reedy]

i've recently bought a 80 series petrol auto and was wondering what would be some good mods to make to improve the fuel economy as it is currently running at 20L / 100km

G'day Mate!! These are the mods I have done to my '94' Sahara 4.5 petty auto to get better economy and power, Gennie extractors and 2 1/2" exhaust, 2 Hiclones, Finner Filter, advanced the timing a few deg's which made a huge difference in power and economy and I also run it on premium!!! I have a 5" lift with 305x70x16" tyres running 42-45psi!!! I get about 500-550km's to a tank (and thats with the wife driving) which is 50/50 town and hiway!!

I hope this info helps you out!!:thumb:

Reedy!!!:D

[redskee]

G'day Mate!! These are the mods I have done to my '94' Sahara 4.5 petty auto to get better economy and power, Gennie extractors and 2 1/2" exhaust, 2 Hiclones, Finner Filter, advanced the timing a few deg's which made a huge difference in power and economy and I also run it on premium!!! I have a 5" lift with 305x70x16" tyres running 42-45psi!!! I get about 500-550km's to a tank (and thats with the wife driving) which is 50/50 town and hiway!!

I hope this info helps you out!!:thumb:

Reedy!!!:D


hey mate do u think that those hiclone things work im tempted to get one but not 100% an how much did it cost to get one????????????

[v6hilux]

hey mate do u think that those hiclone things work im tempted to get one but not 100% an how much did it cost to get one????????????

This has been done to death!

Just don't do it!

Send me the money for the same result.

Get magnets from Peter Brock's company for the same results.

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

Redski, it IS worth doing a search on this, there is certainly more to it than JUST the response above! They cost $165-175 ish fitted and come with a 30 day money back guarrantee! MANY people and companies have found them to be beneficial, but all suggest the savings won't be massive. There are also many companies using the same sort of technology/device in their OE designs and engines (but you probly won't get much EXTRA improvement on them!) Still, if it's good enough for Ferrari????

If you want to give them a try, please note that they are a little sensitive to positioning, so it's worthwhile playing with exactly where they are fitted a bit! Some vehicles are recommended to have more than one fitted, don't know if that makes any real difference or not, but I believe that they are certainly worth a TRY! Make sure that you have GOOD records of your fuel usage beforehand, and keep good records during your 30 day trial. Then make up YOUR mind about their benefit to you!

Most retailers are fairly comfortable if you tell them up front that you are going away for say 6 weeks and want to trial them for that period, and they will often hold the 'money back warranty' until then, and if the person you first ask won't give you a bit of leeway like that, ask another outlet - there is sure to be one around that will let you try it for 6 weeks or so if you have a reason for not being able to get it back in 30 days - just make sure that you talk to them up front and get clearance for it! I don't know of any retailer who will give you any grief about returning them, and since the fee is for the thing fitted, they usually remove it for free too!! Only takes about 10 mins fitting/removal for most cars, and there is guidance on where to fit them, just not exact measurements!

Give it a go, you might be surprised, and what have you got to lose? 20 minutes of your time??

Cheers!

[crusin]

If you were interested in fuel economy I think you,ve picked the wrong vehicle. I should know I got one as well

[Reedy]

hey mate do u think that those hiclone things work im tempted to get one but not 100% an how much did it cost to get one????????????

Redski, it IS worth doing a search on this, there is certainly more to it than JUST the response above! They cost $165-175 ish fitted and come with a 30 day money back guarrantee! MANY people and companies have found them to be beneficial, but all suggest the savings won't be massive. There are also many companies using the same sort of technology/device in their OE designs and engines (but you probly won't get much EXTRA improvement on them!) Still, if it's good enough for Ferrari????

If you want to give them a try, please note that they are a little sensitive to positioning, so it's worthwhile playing with exactly where they are fitted a bit! Some vehicles are recommended to have more than one fitted, don't know if that makes any real difference or not, but I believe that they are certainly worth a TRY! Make sure that you have GOOD records of your fuel usage beforehand, and keep good records during your 30 day trial. Then make up YOUR mind about their benefit to you!

Most retailers are fairly comfortable if you tell them up front that you are going away for say 6 weeks and want to trial them for that period, and they will often hold the 'money back warranty' until then, and if the person you first ask won't give you a bit of leeway like that, ask another outlet - there is sure to be one around that will let you try it for 6 weeks or so if you have a reason for not being able to get it back in 30 days - just make sure that you talk to them up front and get clearance for it! I don't know of any retailer who will give you any grief about returning them, and since the fee is for the thing fitted, they usually remove it for free too!! Only takes about 10 mins fitting/removal for most cars, and there is guidance on where to fit them, just not exact measurements!

Give it a go, you might be surprised, and what have you got to lose? 20 minutes of your time??

Cheers!


Mate give them a go!!! I know this will start another "Hiclone" argument but as I've said before you have nothing to lose cos of the 30 day garantee and as peter said they are sensitive to position so move them about to find the best position!!! My first one is hard up against the throttle body manifold and my second one is about 200mm away from that!!!! As you can see from my fuel figures considering I have a 5" lift and big tyres it's not too bad!!!:thumb:

[redskee]

sweet as then thanks heaps hay ill giv it a go an see wat happens with my cruiser