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View Full Version : Ra Rodeo Body Lift


noremac
23-07-2007, 05:37 PM
hey. im reasonably new here been reading for a while though.theres some very good infomation on the site so thanks..;) anyway i want to get some lift out of my 2004 3.5L 4x4 RA Rodeo, i want to do a body lift im pretty sure i know how to do it but i just want to know wat is the max height i could go to with out having to change anything(eg: wires/hoses coming out of the cab) i was going to go with 50mm blocks made from 50x50x3RHS or something similar and will i need to get longer bolts or will the stock ones be long enough.? anyone whos done it could u give me any tips or points about the correct and safest way to go about it. thanks.

muckute
25-07-2007, 11:31 PM
I did my RA in a couple of hours. Max i would go is 50mm height as steering shaft won't stretch much further and as i have the turbo diesel the intercooler hoses and hoses from the air cleaner are also a bit stretched. You will need longer bolts not sure of exact lengths but the two bolts at the very front are a different length to the 4 that are under the cab. I have a single cab tray top so can't comment on other mounting bolts, best to check all before starting. The bottom section of your fan shroud will unclip so there is no cutting required there, you will need to remove the whole shroud to remove that section tho. i didn't have any trouble with the gear lever hitting the floor pan after the lift. If you have a ute tub the fuel filler may also need attention. Use loktite on the new mounting bolts.

Not sure about using RHS for blocks. I think solid blocks would be much better, from memory the existing rubber bushes are about 70mm diameter, i used solid steel bar and for 6 blocks cut to length it only cost me $50 from local steel supplier then i drilled 10mm hole at home.

To lift cab i removed the bolts on one side and just loosened the bolts on the other then put a large timber block under the sill and used a jack to lift enough to get the block in then loosely fitted the bolts on that side then repeated for the other side.

I was lucky with my bullbar mounts because there was enough room to move it up 50mm to match the body lift

Sorry if i waffle on but it's now way past my bed time, any other q's just ask

westernstar
15-09-2007, 10:35 PM
Hey Muckute
Dont spose you got any pics while doin it, did ya?:o
Any other hints would be handy as I will be goin ahead with a 40mm lift soon...;)

Cheers

Hellonasty
16-09-2007, 02:06 PM
Yeah think i'm going to do a 30mm lift pretty soon. Anyone know if there are any legal pobs ? I know you need a engineers certificate and from what have heard none of them will touch a vehicle with body lift + air bags ? True ?

sudso
16-09-2007, 02:30 PM
Yeah think i'm going to do a 30mm lift pretty soon. Anyone know if there are any legal pobs ? I know you need a engineers certificate and from what have heard none of them will touch a vehicle with body lift + air bags ? True ?Cant see why, a body lift is totally separate from the suspension.

The body lift blocks have to be solid steel or something else solid of equal or more strength.

Hellonasty
16-09-2007, 03:36 PM
Sudso,

I believe it has something to do with changing the "declared" impact zones re the airbags. By lifing the body you are changing the height of the impact zones that trigger the airbags.

I'm not 100% but thats my take on it.

westernstar
16-09-2007, 03:52 PM
Thats the first I heard for a 2" body lift ( engineers certificate )
My take on it was one was needed if the lift was body and susp = 5" or more....(eg 2"body and 3" susp lifts)
Body lift doesnt change the height of chassie so shouldnt need cert.

sudso
16-09-2007, 04:54 PM
Sudso,

I believe it has something to do with changing the "declared" impact zones re the airbags. By lifing the body you are changing the height of the impact zones that trigger the airbags.

I'm not 100% but thats my take on it.that sounds about right.
I didnt realise you had airbags.

cheers.

Ducky103
16-09-2007, 06:46 PM
if the sensors for the airbags are mounted on the body then a body lift is not a problem. its only if the sensors are mounted on the chassis that a body lift can not be done.

westernstar
16-09-2007, 08:26 PM
sssoooo :p .... where would the airbag sensors be in the RA?
Has anyone actually done a body lift on a RA? :o

Ducky103
16-09-2007, 09:31 PM
sssoooo :p .... where would the airbag sensors be in the RA?
Has anyone actually done a body lift on a RA? :o

can't help you there my RA doesn't have airbags.

Hellonasty
16-09-2007, 10:53 PM
Hmm I will look into it and get back to yas.

BigKev57
17-09-2007, 12:44 PM
I am also looking at lifting my RA LT 2004 Turbo Diesel. I got some good advice from the guys at Opposite Lock at Midland WA. They said the maximum I could lift the RA without any engineer checks, changing of hoses etc was 40mm. I am getting a new set of Cooper STC's fitted to beast in early October and that will automatically lift my Rodeo body off the ground to the tune of 25mm, add this to the 40mm lift kit from Ironman suspension and I will have an extra 65mm rise in the Rodeo. That should do me. The only hassle I will have is the change in the speedo readings, but hey, that's what a Garmin Nuvi 310 is for. Hope this helps. Cheers.

Zed Rat
18-09-2007, 10:20 PM
Had my twin cab LT ute done proffessionally near 3 years ago. Did a 50mm body lift, Koni Heavy Track all corners, Polyairs rear, 255/85/16 BFG muddies on standard LT alloy rims (33"), Macs FX winch bar, winch usual gear. She goes a treat. Clearance is fantastic sills are now 4 inch higher than standard, its wound up a fair bit to get the 33's on, but what you can drive over with the larger diameter rubber compensates for the loss of drop. Front tires will give the inner guards a clobber now and again if you whack the front end down hard but you learn to compensate. Slow down or Front Locker. Overall really happy with the truck, supprised how well it drives on the blacktop. Tips: Steering shaft needs to be lengthened for body lift, gearing notably altered especially low range 1st down steep descents, climbing OK, bit slower off the mark at the lights, but once its revs up longer legs in gears. Had a Marks speedo correction unit fitted, was doing about 10 to 15% than actual speedo reading. Steering will need to be adjusted tyres will touch swaybars on full lock, loss off turning circle. Done nearly 40K with mods just replaced original clutch with a ceramic one wow! I can do chirpies with 33's. Beware also just done transfer case housing stripped internal moulding, this had nothing to do with mods. Clackerty clack sound when changing gears in low range told Holdens prior to mods response "normal sounds could find nothing abnormal." Very long story truck was off the road 10 weeks for bit to come from Japan. Another tyre size to consider 285/75/16, BFG or Cooper have these sizes,would need offset rims. If you go 15" rims you got 33x10.5xR15 or 33x12.5R15, 12.5 to wide I recon, 11s are plenty wide, if you want to go 33's! Cheers.

Ducky103
18-09-2007, 11:39 PM
zed rat could you get some pics of your rig please and is the 50mm lift a body lift or suspension lift.

Zed Rat
27-09-2007, 09:20 PM
zed rat could you get some pics of your rig please and is the 50mm lift a body lift or suspension lift.

Ducky103 its a 5omm body lift with a slight suspension lift, rear leafs re set. Body blocks are 50mm aluminium. Will get some pics for you, going on holiday for a week will organise when I get back. Its a fairly stiff rig but it bounces or claws its way over most stuff. handles rocks and ledges well. Great approach angle, improved departure, the LT flashy rear bar has had some close shaves. The relatively narrow (10")compared to diameter (33") tyres actually bit through mud and loose rock impressively, thats why Im hesitant on going to 12" wide, 11" would be a safer bet. Its the 3.5ltre V6 5 spd model, notice your a diesel man. If you got any questions fire away.

muckute
01-10-2007, 03:22 PM
Sorry Westernstar i didn't take any pics while doing the work, i didn't even know about all this forum stuff when i did it or think that i may be helping others through the process at the time.

I do wish that i did the lift before getting new tyres as now the guards look empty

Hellonasty
01-10-2007, 07:20 PM
Hey muckute,

I read your post re the lift. What else was involved ? You said you just took the bolts out, loosened the others jacked it up and put the blocks in. What else was done ? Steering shaft etc etc ?

Thanks

muckute
05-10-2007, 07:01 PM
Steering shaft was ok but any more than 50mm it would need a spacer or extension etc.. No stubby lever to worry about (damn pushbutton 4wd crap) all fuel,brake and breather lines have flexible sections between cab and chassis that are long enough to allow for the lift. As i said the fan shroud was an issue and the intercooler and radiator hoses work but are not ideal

sudso
21-09-2008, 07:15 PM
Had my twin cab LT ute done proffessionally near 3 years ago. Did a 50mm body lift, Koni Heavy Track all corners, Polyairs rear, 255/85/16 BFG muddies on standard LT alloy rims (33"), Macs FX winch bar, winch usual gear. She goes a treat. Clearance is fantastic sills are now 4 inch higher than standard, its wound up a fair bit to get the 33's on, but what you can drive over with the larger diameter rubber compensates for the loss of drop. Front tires will give the inner guards a clobber now and again if you whack the front end down hard but you learn to compensate. Slow down or Front Locker. Overall really happy with the truck, supprised how well it drives on the blacktop. Tips: Steering shaft needs to be lengthened for body lift, gearing notably altered especially low range 1st down steep descents, climbing OK, bit slower off the mark at the lights, but once its revs up longer legs in gears. Had a Marks speedo correction unit fitted, was doing about 10 to 15% than actual speedo reading. Steering will need to be adjusted tyres will touch swaybars on full lock, loss off turning circle. Done nearly 40K with mods just replaced original clutch with a ceramic one wow! I can do chirpies with 33's. Beware also just done transfer case housing stripped internal moulding, this had nothing to do with mods. Clackerty clack sound when changing gears in low range told Holdens prior to mods response "normal sounds could find nothing abnormal." Very long story truck was off the road 10 weeks for bit to come from Japan. Another tyre size to consider 285/75/16, BFG or Cooper have these sizes,would need offset rims. If you go 15" rims you got 33x10.5xR15 or 33x12.5R15, 12.5 to wide I recon, 11s are plenty wide, if you want to go 33's! Cheers.
Zed Rat, what did you do to lengthen your stg shaft?
sudso