gq fuel filter

[slowlux]

think i need to replace my fuel filter if its the problem, TD42 with 337 thou, feels really sluggish and doesnt really like to rev above 2000rpm, gets really loud and just generally feels like somethings blocked?

I know my tappets are out aswell, but if i replace the fuel filter will it run a bit better and have some more power?

What type of fuel filter to use and how much and where from? And when i do replace it do i have to smear a little bit of diesel around the top of it and fill it up?

thanks

[toy yoda]

A filter will certainly make a difference if it is currently restricted, reckon We used to do them every 20,000km but not sure, the front of the gregorues manual will have a maintainance and lube schedule it should be in that.. Brand i dunna just dont use a cheapy ryco, guenuine i guess

[slowlux]

well i think i should definatly change it then, done about 25 thou since ive had the car and they havent been changed

[toy yoda]

Changing stuff like filters will always help, though sometimes you may not notice it. whats the state of your injectors and pump (in KM's ect)

[toy yoda]

If Peter @Aawen finds this thread you will get every answer you need!!!

[slowlux]

Changing stuff like filters will always help, though sometimes you may not notice it. whats the state of your injectors and pump (in KM's ect)

no idea, think the injectors need to be done. Everything in the engine just needs a once over, its got considerably less power than when i first had it!

[toy yoda]

I think youve just about answered all your own Questions hey,,, expensive but your on right track one step at a time!

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

If Peter @Aawen finds this thread you will get every answer you need!!!

Hey Yoda, you forget that I have the absolute pleasure of being a moderator on here now!! So the Nissan Threads find me, not the other way 'round!

Slowlux, it's the best place to start, ALL the filters should be done, so that means don't forget to check the little gauze screen jobbie in the banjo plug on the end of the injector pump! If that makes no difrnce, then you can start looking at things like injectors and pump timing etc, but not before the filters!

[toy yoda]

Hey Yoda, you forget that I have the absolute pleasure of being a moderator on here now!! So the Nissan Threads find me, not the other way 'round!

Slowlux, it's the best place to start, ALL the filters should be done, so that means don't forget to check the little gauze screen jobbie in the banjo plug on the end of the injector pump! If that makes no difrnce, then you can start looking at things like injectors and pump timing etc, but not before the filters!

I figured your nissan radar was active;) Fancy a South Aussie on the moderators list hey,, top stuff

[Patrolling Paddy]

Hey Yoda, you forget that I have the absolute pleasure of being a moderator on here now!! So the Nissan Threads find me, not the other way 'round!

Slowlux, it's the best place to start, ALL the filters should be done, so that means don't forget to check the little gauze screen jobbie in the banjo plug on the end of the injector pump! If that makes no difrnce, then you can start looking at things like injectors and pump timing etc, but not before the filters!

Peter how often should the 'little gauze screen jobbie' been cleaned/changed? Mine seems to be running fine but I have had it a little over 130000km and not ever touched it, it now has nearly 295000km. I have bolted on the turbo, changed injectors, I/C, added boost and now gas so if it is loosing power I have hidden it with all the bolt on stuff. Would this screen affect the black smoke effect and economy?
Your answers are always appreciated and very informative so who better to ask then the Nissan wiz himself.
( A little ice should stop the head swell)

Cheers

PP

[Patrolling Paddy]

On the filter thing I use the CAV type filter. Got the adapter kit from Coventry's (A while ago can't remember cost but about $100-$150 I think) it came with the adapter head filter and glass bowl. Although the initial spend is high the filter elements are only about $15 so it works out cheaper in the long run, plus you can see if there is any crap in the bowl.
Prior to this I used to use the Ryco Z332 filters and had no drama's either.

Cheers

PP

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

If your primary filters have been doing their thing properly, you won't ever need to do the little gauzy thing!! And I'm pretty sure that not all of the TD4.2's actually got them it was a fix early in the piece, and more common post about '94 I think, but I could be wrong there. All I know is that out of the 3 Patrols here, it wasn't in the '88 'til we put it there in 2005; it is in the 94 'cos Nissan put it there in Dec that year when I was looking for a cure for the 'dreaded 3,000 rpm hesitation'; and it came as part of the '96 package! Everything I've looked at since '96 has had it there, but the Nissan guys here at Vimy Ridge tell me that theyv'e been there since end '94, but that was when they put mine in, so I don't know if they've got confused with that!

So how often to service it? Probly a good thing to check every 40,000km or so, earlier if you get a load of dud fuel and you aren't convinced about the function of your Primary filter! With the Cav filter and the glass sight bowl, I wouldn't have thought you'd have a great deal of problem, and the filters are actually better'n the Nissan OE units, as well as being WAAAAYY cheaper! The Ryco Z332's are better than the Nissan OE units too, so you shouldn't have a major problem at all. Check it now, and then every 40k or so, that should do it!

The smoke, yes if it's clogged it may well be the issue, but I wouldn't bet on yours being that clogged! That is if you have one? Do you?

And re the ice, you might have just solved a baffling condition that has had the medical world flummoxed since 1990!! To think of all the $$$ and tests and research that they've put into trying to reslove the massive pain and deafness, and all it took was some ice to keep the swelling down! I reckon I'll hafta sue some of the specialists that did all those operations!! Thanks maaate!

[sudso]

I reckon it cos of the cold weather being the catalyst lol.
There's a few of us now having this problem.

[sudso]

Hey Yoda, you forget that I have the absolute pleasure of being a moderator on here now!!
Hey that means I cant laugh when ya cant bag w4ds now lol

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

It is probly more to do with the increased tendency for there to be a small percentage of Bio-diesel in just about all fuels these days than anything else! The bio-diesel itself if made to acceptable quality stds shouldn't be an issue, but it is a far better cleaner and dissolver of fuel sediment and deposits in fuel systems, so there are lots of people finding that their filters either aren't lasting as long, or they are clogging up things like the little gauzy jobbie where they never have in the past!

Shouldn't be a major issue, unless you get a poor quality batch of bio-diesel, and that only happens rarely unless you make your own (or use someone elses home made stuff) Most of the commercially made stuff is reasonable, and shouldn't be an issue, but....?

Personally, I'd avoid the higher levels of bio-diesel until they clear it for use with rotary pumps, and not knowingly use too much blended fuels. That means keeping away from SAFF and similar places, as well as places like supermarket fuel outlets etc, ie the sort of places many have found to provide fuel that just doesn't quite give the same performance or economy or even run as smoothly!! Stick with the big names, BP Shell & Caltex and the Company owned outlets. You probly won't have quite so many of these little niggles!!

[sudso]

I only use BP and a little Chemtech conditioner (dunno if its worth it though)

[BIGDAVET86]

I reckon that Shell or "coles express" as its now called is the best. BP has the low sulpher diesel and i was under the impression that sulpher was one of the lubricants needed by injection pumps. I could very well be wrong but i have never had an issue using shell, i have used Gull B20 several times but found that my filter clogged up with heaps of sediment and really fine powdery type gear so i stopped that quick smart. Woolworths is no good either dunno why but it just seems to run rougher and use more fuel.

BUt what i cant understand is, it all comes into the BP refinery in Kwinana (in WA anyway) as crude and then it gets shipped of to everywhere else how is the fuel so different if its coming out of the same tap, so to speak.

Sorry to go off course in your thread slowlux.

Cheers
Dave

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

.....
BUt what i cant understand is, it all comes into the BP refinery in Kwinana (in WA anyway) as crude and then it gets shipped ofv to everywhere else how is the fuel so different if its coming out of the same tap, so to speak.

Cheers
Dave

It's not how it comes out that makes it difrnt, it's what they do to it and add to it after the refinery!! Some of the stuff that goes in there smells like that goop you often get stuck in up near the Great Dividing Range, you know the stuff, smells like used pig, very used pig!

Cheers!

[azzad]

I have the CAV type filter on mine and you can usually get the filters for $10 or less, so I replace mine every 10`000 (2nd service).

I think Peters theory about the gauze thing is acurate as my 93 doesnt have one either.

[sudso]

BP has the low sulpher diesel and i was under the impression that sulpher was one of the lubricants needed by injection pumps. Cheers
DaveIs this true? If its causing my pump problems I'm gonna hafta talk my boss into changing my fuel card to Shell :)

[azzad]

BP definately made the change to low sulphur awhile ago but I thought that every Fuel outlet did or had to?

[sudso]

BP definately made the change to low sulphur awhile ago but I thought that every Fuel outlet did or had to?Thats what I thought too but is the stuff bad for the old rotary injector pumps like someone suggested?

[trains]

I have rung bp and caltex re the low sulphur fuels.
They all add a lubricant so that the fuel has a minimum lube requirement that is up there with sulphur fuel.
Everyone has been on low sulphur for quite a while.

Trains

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

It's only some of the older style 'rubber' seals and washers etc that get bothered by the change of fuel stds, not the pump itself! So it is pretty much likely that the leaking you are experiencing is seals in the first instance, altho there may be summat else underlying the problem! The longer you leave it leaking the greater the likelhood of damage greater than just the seals??! So get it into a reputable pump service place and get them to look at it and give you an idea of cost before they do anything! You should be able to work out fairly quickly those who are honest and want to do as good a job as they can vs those who just want to take you money!! Seals only shouldn't cost a heap, certainly not more than say $200ish! (One of our Patrols got done for $10!! Stopped the leak tho!)

Good luck!