Hilux and 4Runner Info

[boof]

Ok I have done a bit of a search for some past posts on Hiluxs and 4Runners.

I am hoping it will be made a sticky and will eventually grow into a useful source of iinformation for people to look at. I guess its similiar to the bible on Outers.

If you have any threads to add just put what they are about and a link. We should also try not to put any chat in here as it isnt really necessary.

Hilux Dual Battery
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=34185&highlight=Hilux

Turbo Information
Diesel
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=33517&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=32732&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=31435&highlight=Hilux

Petrol
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=31709&highlight=Hilux

Mechanical
Uni Joints
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=32306&highlight=Hilux

Hubs
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=32128&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=32089&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=31105&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=29975&highlight=Hilux

Cooling systems
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=32011&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=29666&highlight=Hilux

Brakes
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=31200&highlight=Hilux

Diffs
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=30729&highlight=Hilux

Suspension
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=30741&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=30747&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=29500&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=28720&highlight=Hilux

BJ Spacers

http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=33268&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=28942&highlight=Hilux

Body lift info
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=32208&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=31212&highlight=Hilux

Engine Conversion Info
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=31939&highlight=Hilux

Tyres
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=32009&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=29234&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=31048&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=29353&highlight=Hilux
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=34727


A useful site for diff information

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/4_axles.html





Lockers

http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/search.php?searchid=191312

[Celt's]

great work mate, just noticed it. Will definately be coming back for a squizz when i have a bit of time.:thumb:

[A1 Mech]

changed my 4.3 diff centre to a 4.56 the sarvo so I thought I'd post up sum picks and show easy it is to change a diff.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0235.jpg
First of all u want to jack up the rear and put on stands, then proceed to take off the rear wheels and disconnect brake lines (let fluid dribble into a dish) Also disconnect handbrake cable support on trailing arm (4runner/surf only)

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0237-1.jpg
Then proceed to undo 4 axle flange nuts on the inside of the backing plate (can be tight so get a big lever). Axles will slide out with ease make sure to take care that brake lines dont get kinked or damaged.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0238.jpg
Then u wanna get under the car and undo the 4 nut & bolts fixing the tailshaft to the pinion flange, then give the tailshaft a gentle tap with a hammer and it will drop (position out of the way).

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0239.jpg
U then want to gently undo the numerous diff pumpkin studs and put the nuts and washers aside. To check that the axles are far enough out turn the pinion flange by hand and ther shud be no drive transmitted to drums.

When all the nuts are off push the pinion flange and then pull it down to break the seal (oil will piss out if not already drained so be ready for it) And also the diff centre weighs alot so be ready to grab it or guide it to sumthin soft.

[A1 Mech]

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0072.jpg
new 4.56 centre, only bummer is its an open diff (not for long ;) )

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0245.jpg
Align and guide in replacement centre using jack to lift it into place. It shud slot in with ease and then proceed to do up stud nuts just as u wud ur wheel nuts (opposites). bolt up driveshaft, Refit axles and tighten flange nuts and refit hand brake supports and brake lines. The hardest part of this whole exercise is bleeding the brakes which really isnt that hard anyway. O and remember to refill with clean oil

Now next time u detonate a crown wheel dont pay sum thief mechanic a fortune to fix it, do it urself for the price of a $250-$300 diff and save ur coin.

[A1 Mech]

Went for a quick test drive and even the change from 4.3 to 4.56 makes a big difference in the way my car drives, she takes off like a rocket and doesn't hesitate as much when taking off on hills, I can now pull up our local hill in 3rd rather in crawling in 2nd so pretty happy with it. Also I hav lower gearing in low range now also.

[A1 Mech]

Ok well today I played sum more mechanics. This is how u remove an IFS front diff. The re install in my truck will come later (I need to do sum more research, anyone got that link to the instructions on here or downunder?).


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0246-1.jpg
First of all u need a mate with a written off surf. This surf had a VG30 (300Z 6cyl turbo) and went like hell till it run up the back of a truck.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0249.jpg
Then wat u need to do is undo the 6 nuts on the ends of the CV's which hold the CV's to the diff housing section. Also loosein off the 2 vertical diff mounting bolts and the forward mounting bolt. In the case of this surf it was easy access as the motor is gone, the bolts wer bloody tight so i used a big bar and hammer. It also had a heap of vacuum lines and electrics to undo due to the ADD on the surf.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0250.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0251.jpg
Give it a kick and wiggle around and mission accomplised BEWARE this is even heavier then the rear centre so dont let it fall on a limb, Im not looking forward to fitting it up in my truck as it will be more time consuming, but I will get pics when I do and post them up. Cheers




p.s http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0252.jpg
This was a truck my mate has been workin on, I no wer Ill be taking mine to have one of these babys fitted.

[Twisty]

Patrol Bonnet Scoop Install (see page 2)
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/f10/patrol-bonnet-scoop-install-1838/index2.html

Blinging up your bullbar with clear indicators and 100mm driving lights.
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/f10/tjm-bullbar-diving-light-clear-indicator-install-7237/

IFS Bashplate Plans/Install
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/f10/toyota-ifs-custom-alloy-bashplate-7238/

Tool Identification Guide
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/f21/tool-indentification-guide-6950/

Slider Mounts
http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/f10/mounting-sidesteps-rock-sliders-chassis-6797/

[boof]

Moving Diffs forward

http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/f44/moving-hilux-front-diff-forward-35671/

[Struth]

A1mech you forgot to mention disconnecting the sway bar if one is present on the rear diff. It gets in the way of removing the centre and especially when re fitting.

Cheers

[Twisty]

A1mech you forgot to mention disconnecting the sway bar if one is present on the rear diff. It gets in the way of removing the centre and especially when re fitting.

Cheers

Hmmm...my sway bar has always been fitted when I've changed the diff centre, never had any dramas with it.

[A1 Mech]

A1mech you forgot to mention disconnecting the sway bar if one is present on the rear diff. It gets in the way of removing the centre and especially when re fitting.

Cheers

hmm easiest thing to do is remove it and leave in shed.

[Struth]

Hmmm...my sway bar has always been fitted when I've changed the diff centre, never had any dramas with it.


Maybe it has to do with the amount of rear lift, last time I pulled the rear diff to replace the gasket it made it difficult to get the diff out. When I undid the sway bar from the chassis and lifted it out of the way refitting the diff was much easier.

Just had a look now and the more your suspension is lifted the better the clearence will become, because of where the sway bar is bent around the front of the diff, this bent section will move upward in comparison to the diff as the rear sus' is lifted more.

So I will claim a good point if I may:D

Of course putting the chassis on stands so the suspension hangs lower will also do the trick, but I didn't bother to jack it up for the job.:crazy:

Cheers

[BundyLilux]

Custom Stainless Steel Snorkel ,Rear Quarter Panel Cut,HID Light Conversion

Team MudRhino:Readers Vehicles (http://www.mudrhino.com.au/DIY.htm)

[ChunkyCharcoal]

Excellent write up from an AUSSIE! HERE (http://bjblaster.homedns.org/projects/auto/hilux_turbo_3l/index.html)

His site can be viewed HERE (http://bjblaster.homedns.org/index.html)

This guy is a real brainiac:thumb:





Click HERE (http://4wheeling.ca/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=2) for another writeup from the guys at 4Wheeling.ca - Off Road Junkies! - Home (http://4wheeling.ca)

Good pics and tech but is American.

[kjparker]

is it just me, or are all the links in the first post broken?

[boof]

Yeh they dont appear to be working I will fix them when I have the time.

[beefboss]

any links or info on Automatic Diff Disconect

[FTX-RUNNER]

links still not workin:(

[BLUX]

links still not workin:(

All links are now working perfect.. :thumb:

[duza]

This is my thread detailing how to adapt a Celsior Auto to a Surf or 4Runner Auto transfer case when doing a 1UZ conversion and should clear up most issues people have when considering going auto.

http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=693678&posted=1#post693678

[speedwagon]

links still not workin:(

probs with links again.

is there a reason for this

[Cyber]

Can We please have this Thread Updated?

Most links are Dead

[boof]

The problem with the links is forum related, when its sorted I will find the time to update it.

[A1 Mech]

Well we fitted a turbo to a mates lux on the weekend so I thought Id do a semi detailed write up about it to second the other one on here.

Items required:
Turbo/manifold
exhaust gasket/goo
3m of heater hose
1/2m larger fuel hose, 1.2m small fuel hose
plastic/brass barbed T fittings
Hose clamps in various sizes
assortment of tools/rough knowledge of vehicle.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0162.jpg
remove old manifold and exhaust

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0155.jpg
This is wat we start with a completely rebuilt oil/water cooled roller bearing garret, the manifold turned out to be off an ancient L diesel (2.2D) so had to be backyard modified to fit (seems sealed ok after testing but time will tell).

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0156.jpg
This is the little L head, far smaller then the 2-3L.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0159.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0160.jpg
U can c here where our problems wer, the ports wer perfect but the holes wer about 3mm or so out. enlarged them with the diegrinder till the bolts cud clamp down, plenty of hightemp sealant used.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0164.jpg

[A1 Mech]

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0165.jpg
manifold finally on, not happy with how dodgy it looks but it seals fine.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0163.jpg
about $100 of hoses and fittings to get oil and water to the turbo.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0167.jpg
U hav to tap into the alternators feed and return oil lines, the feed is the high pressure smaller hose and the thicker one the return, we used Brass T pieces and came straight from these lines to the turbo. Ther is roughly 40psi on the high pressure line so use proper fuel hose and decent clamps.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0168.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0170.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0171.jpg

[A1 Mech]

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0172.jpg
Then u hav to get a feed and return coolant hose to the water fittings of the turbo, Use the heater hoses which run parallel to the manifold. It is best to tap into them on the passenger side where they enter the block, then cable tie the 2 hoses along the heater hoses path to the turbo.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0174.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0173.jpg
The turbo is fitted and we hav borrowed the boosted side cross over pipe off my 4runner to test it all, We still need to hav the exhaust shop make up sum new cross over pipes for this hilux and a 21/2" mandrel exhaust. U hav to disconnect the oil breather from the intake manifold and block it as it becomes pressurised now, run the breather from the tappet cover to the low pressure side of the intake plumbing (obviously downstream of the filter).

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e164/jplan4/IMG_0169.jpg
Then all u hav to do is wind the adjustment screw on the injection pump roughly a full turn clockwise to bring the fuel rate up to match the boost. Double check the oil/coolant is flowing correctly b4 driving and that everything is sealed correctly. We will be fitting a boost and pyrometer so we can determine correct fuel adjustments over time.

Im pretty sure Ive remebered all, if ther is any Q's please ask and Ill fill u in best I can. Cheers

[Dirt Junkie]

couple questions...
Do you know what garrett turbo it is?
The manifold that you used i'm assuming it used to have a CT20 sitting on it?

[A1 Mech]

The garrett is an older style 5 bolt T3 variant which was completely stripped and rebuilt. Its manifold is a custom cast iron job. The head which we got the manifold and turbo off originally was from an L diesel (2.2L) its studs were slightly different but we wer able to modify

[dfj20]

can i be a real pain and ask what size hoses and 't piece' fittings are needed?

[A1 Mech]

Not 100% sure mate off the top of my head, best bet is to measure ur heater hoses and get the closest smaller T. do the same with the oil feed and return. make sure u use good quality oil hose for ur oil lines as my mates return hose softened and burst after about 20000k, cleaning wasnt fun.

[dfj20]

thats what i was gunnado, but i'm just lazy, thought i might be able to just go and buy them. thanks anyway

[steve-o]

does the 2.7l petrol hilux motor have an oxygen sensor ? had a bit of a look and cant find it.
i wan2 fit an autometer air fuel ratio guage but dont know how 2 if theres no sensor:confused:

[A1 Mech]

pretty sure all EFI engines require a O2 sensor to ge the fuel/air ratio reading. It will be somewhere on the exhaust, either on the manifold, downpipe, or near the Cat.

[Runnabee]

Nice write up man, id be keen on doing something like this to my runner if i had the cash, so whats it like? big improvement or only small, im guessing its a stock motor internally? what sort of boost are you running?

[A1 Mech]

A turbo added to any engine is a massive improvement over factory especially the 3L, this is a mild setup with only 5psi of boost and non intercooled and the hp and torque increased dramatically, no dyno figures but it can easy blow away a stocko even with 33" rubber.

turbo is a garrett branded version of the T3 which is used on the VL commodores and some R32 skylines.

[Mudrunner's4WD]

hey do 100 series crusier coils fit in a 1993 4 runner with 2 inch lift?

[A1 Mech]

Do u mean, wud 2" raised 100 series cruiser coils fit a 93 runner?

If so then yes but it wud be ridiculousy high, if u want to use cruiser coils I recommend finding a set of original sagged 80 series coils as these alone will give 4" in a much lighter 4runner and will handle better due to them being softer.

[Mudrunner's4WD]

Do u mean, wud 2" raised 100 series cruiser coils fit a 93 runner?

If so then yes but it wud be ridiculousy high, if u want to use cruiser coils I recommend finding a set of original sagged 80 series coils as these alone will give 4" in a much lighter 4runner and will handle better due to them being softer.

no i mean standard coils out of a 100 series into a runner

[Woodbutcher]

no i mean standard coils out of a 100 series into a runner

Yes they will and work well as I have 100 series coils in my Surf but you also need to do a adjustable panhard rod and make a bracket for the brake equalizer to extend it up to match the amount of lift (aprox 4")

[A1 Mech]

Fitted powersteering to a mates 89 LN106 singlecab this weekend so thought I shall right up a quite DIY, will take pics and add later.

What you will need:
LN130, LN106 diesel powersteering kit from a 2L or 3L surf, hilux, 4runner. Solid axles hav a different P/S box to IFS vehicles so the appropriate part will hav to be sourced.

This kit shud consist of:
1. Passenger side engine mount bracket
2. Powersteering pump, pully, belt.
3. resevoir and complete feed/return fluid lines and fittings.
4. P/S and A/C pulleys from front of harmonic balancer
5. P/S box, either IFS or SFA depending on vehicle.
6. Yet to refit radiator but it may or may not need replacing with a P/S item or a new hose, will edit when I find out.

remove radiator, fan, battery and any bashplates in ur way.

-Once all this is collected you can begin to strip out all the old gear. Remove passenger side engine mount bracket and swap in new powersteering pump/engine mount bracket assembly.

-bolt 2 new P/S and AC pulleys to front of harmonic balancer, ur old AC pulley if fitted is a different diameter so removed.

- loosen steering shaft uni's under dash and above steering box, undo all bolts holding steering box and its bracket to chassis and remove (will be a pain but take ur time to figure it out and ull get it off). We took the whole draglink and steering arm in one piece as my mates was stuffed but if u hav to remove the pitman arm hav a decent 32mm spanner and puller handy to get it off as they are practically welded ther.

- bolt on new P/S box bracket then the actual box, refit steering shaft to new lengths on spline and tighten all these bolts.

- place the resevoir in correct location, ther may or may not be tapped holes ther already depending on year model. We had one bolt hole to use and drilled the rest.

- You can now weave the feed/return lines into position, it is easier if they remain all in one piece so you know roughly where they need to pass. You can connect these to the resevoir, pump and box now. There shud be threaded holes in the chassis for ther holding brackets.

- Once you have it all plumbed up check that everything is tight and reassemble alternator belts and new powersteering belt as well as fan, radiator and shroud.

- Fill radiator system with heater on and run engine till there is no air left.

- now with the engine off jack the front wheels off the ground, fill the P/S resevoir till it appears full, now cycle the steering wheel left to right till the fluid works its way down into the lines, keep topping up. You can start the engine and continue topping up and cycling steering while idling. It may take some time to remove all air from the system but eventually the fluid shud look clear and stay at a constant level.

Double check everything is correctly torqued, topped up and leak free then ur ready for a test drive. IF the steering shudders or squeals the belt may need to be tensioned more by forcing the pump out on is adjusting slide, if the box is noisy in operation you may hav to crack the bleed nipple on the actual box if ther is one present.

enjoy power steering ;)

UPDATE: You will need to source a P/S models radiator, hoses and fan clutch as the manual steer parts are not useable.

[MrHilux]

The conversion was done on mine, before I owned it. Was power steering optional in the LN106?

[A1 Mech]

Yes pretty sure AC was a standard item and P/S an option :crazy:


A P/S fan clutch and radiator are also neccessary as the originals lower hose is in the wrong position and the fan clutch will not clear the new pulleys.

[MrHilux]

A friend of mine has strong arm steering in his 87 triton. Can a P/S conversion be done easily on his?

[A1 Mech]

Not sure mate I imagine that if there is a model of his vehicle/engine with P/S from the factory then all the gear associated could be sourced and fitted to his just like we did with the LN106 lux. Google could be you best friend with this.

[MrHilux]

Not sure mate I imagine that if there is a model of his vehicle/engine with P/S from the factory then all the gear associated could be sourced and fitted to his just like we did with the LN106 lux. Google could be you best friend with this.

Thanks, might look into it now. Just depends on what mods are more important for him on his bitsamissin triton. :) All 4WD's should have P/Steering as standard!:thumb:

[raytriplej]

In a 84-6 ish hilux, what does the bar do that goes from the top of the front diff to the chassis? and what is it called?

I would guess it stops the dif rolling backwards or forwards keeping the angle right for the front drive shaft.

I looked at a mates one today and the chassis mount for this bar had to be welded back on. Diff end was ok. God knows how that chassis mount would fail????

Any ideas???

Ray

[A1 Mech]

Its called the torque rod and it stops axle wrap under braking and accelerating. They do occassionally crack at either end if the lux has seen a long life of torture or hard roads, having taller more flexible springs without upgrading to an adjustable torque rod will c extra stress put on it also.

[raytriplej]

Thanks for explaining that.

Ok, next newby question, in an LN65 Hilux (84 ish) are the diff centres interchangable between front and rear diffs?

In another thread I have explained that I have found my rear diff to have a lokka and would prefer it in the front so as not to effect it's daily driver duties.

So can anyone tell me if I can simply swap the front and rear centres over??

Thanks in advance,
ray

[raytriplej]

Next, does anyone know where to buy new gearbox boots to keep the dirt out? Car is a LN65 hilux

[A1 Mech]

Yes the diffs are interchangeable front to rear, as far as gear stick boots go ur best bet wud be to try the wreckers for a good condition one that fits, Or u could try an auto store or the net for a universal rubber bellow type.

[raytriplej]

Thanks for that

[matt_ratt]

none of these links on this page are working?????

[raytriplej]

Hi,
Does the LN167 guards and doors bolt up to a LN106 to give more modern appearance?

Thanks,
Ray

[A1 Mech]

No not neatly or easily as the body dimensions are different. With a bit of panel beating or modification they may tho.

[raytriplej]

Thanks. I thought if it was that easy everyone would be doing it.

Next question, has anyone on here changed a roof on a LN106? I have heard that it can be done, but no amount of googling has turned up any info or pics.

Ideas/advice anyone?
Thanks,
Ray

[A1 Mech]

It can be done but is it worthwhile? Complete Ln106 and other useable model bodys aren't all that dear to purchase whole these days and it aint alot more work in swapping the whole body compared with welding in a new roof.

[raytriplej]

Thanks again. I have come to the same realisation today, just hadn't posted it up as yet.

ray

[raytriplej]

Hi,
Yet another question, does a two inch suspension lift in an LN106 require drop links from the steering box back to the (whatever it connects to)?

I bought a Ln106 yesterday to replace the LN65 I wasn't (well the wife wasn't) happy with.

Front springs are flat, if not a little convex. Need doing, so might as well hit it with a 2 inch lift suspension lift straight away.

Thanks in advance,
Ray

[A1 Mech]

Dropped draglink you mean? Shudnt be neccessary for 2" of lift. If the leafs are very flexible tho it may be worth while or better still fit highsteer

[easilylost]

The links boof has listed at the begining arnt linking ? :crazy: