Torsion Bar wind up

[ricphoto]

I've already looked into this subject a little, but i'd like to hear further opinion in regards to raising the frontal height of Mitsubishi Pajero's by 'winding up' the torsion bars.
I'm especially keen to hear from Pajero owners who have done this and as a result suffered any bad / catastrophic / good / favourable results.
Mine is a '93 NJ long wheelbase with the 3.00litre SOHC engine.
I've got 31s on it and Tough Dogs all round.
Torsion bars were wound up for 2" the other day which I think is too much .... I did ask for 1" but they wouldn't listen !
Look forward to opinions
Rick McDowell

[baby_troupe]

Winding up torsion bars to increase height will reduce suspension travel.

[Matty]

Winding up torsion bars is slightly effective, but it must be done with a bit of know how. I have just sold, and just purchased Hilux's with independant front ends - both have torsion bars. On the first vehicle, they were wound up a bit on the high side, and I found with the standard shocker were a little over sprung. Bounced around a lot. Also - if I went over a speed bump, the suspension would "top" out on its top bump stops. So I had them wound down again a bit. I then had an OME suspension fitted, and the torsion bars were wound up just a little and worked perfectly. The suspension sat in about the middle of its up and down travel.
I have just bought a new V6 Hilux, and the tyre shop wound the bars up so the vehicle was hard up against its top stops, and again, handling etc etc was crap. The statement in the previous reply that it reduces suspension travel is not totally correct - torsion bar suspension has a max up and down it can go - therefore, winding it up reduces the suspensions downward travel, but increases the suspensions upward travel. Trouble is, that for the vehicle to perform, the suspension needs down travel as much as up travel (eg - when cornering and vehicle body rolls - inside wheel needs to be able to move down to remain in contact with the ground.
Also - by having the independant suspension wound up too much, I have heard that steering and front axle longeivity hassles can arrise because things are not sitting where they should be.
Take message - a liitle wind up is o.k - but wind it up much more than the middle of the suspensions travel and you will experience hassles.
Finally - I would love to know how the tough dog components you have already fitted perform - I have heard Tough Dog is a great suspension system / package?

[Muttis3LV6]

Mattie is right on the money with his comments the only thing he didnt mention is fitting low profile bumper stops. they are about half the height of standard ones and (from memory) alow about 1 inch more travel in either direction.

I am saving up the pennies for OME torsion bars and low stops so i can match the 2inch spring lift in the back. The dragway look is stupid on a 4wd

[sandjunke]

I myself have a 94 Hilux 4Runna and i suspect the torsion bars on mine have been wound up as with Muttis3LV6 I think the dragway look is silly. Im running 31x10.5s atm which where on the car when i brought it but the spare is a 12.5 so im thinking they wound the front end up so the tyres wouldnt rub or grab anything. They have also told me that the 4runnas have a tendency to sag in the ass. Anyone have any suggestions on wat suspension to fit to my car that would raise the bak to match the front

Sandjunke

www.offroaders.cjb.net

[feno]

I have just sold my "92" NH pajero for this reason. The constant cost of repair to the front end was endless. It was lifted as high as it could go with standard torsion bars and also had the lower bump stops cut down to gain maximum height. Downward travel was limited to about 5mm. But on the good side of things it did allow me to run 33" BFG muddys. If you are wanting this height from your pajero I would strongly recomend fitting AMV manual locking hubs. You will lose the convience of "super select" on the move, but will save a fortune on cv joints & boots. I dont think full compression was ever reached with this setup due to the fact of the stored energy in the highly wound torsion bars. The upper and lower suspension bushes will also detiorate very quickly and are costly to replace. It also had TJM XGS shoks fitted (very good). To be honest was was crap off road, even on dirt roads. Very rough. But good on the beach with big tyres & increased front diff clearence.

[Bikie]

Had a mate with a japero had his lifted and the bump stops removed completely, he was forever replacing CV boots about once every 2-3 months, he still has the vehicle but he has lowered it abit. Also sudgest fitting aftermarket torsion bars, eg Pedders, will literally transform your car.

[cookie monster]

just bought a 2.8td nl pajero. had a look at the torsion bars the other day. one was set correctly at 23mm (details in the gregories workshop manual)
from the bottom bump stop to the suspension arm the other was a little low. both adjuster bolts are near the end of their travel though. it has made the car sit nice and flat.

anybody got any experience with uni filters and hi-clones with this motor. am getting a snorkel fitted next week.
cookie monster

[Mick015]

I too have the same problem with my 4 runner.

I am told that the best way to fix the problem is to instal a set of rancho torsion bars, as they are already tensioned they will allow for extra height when adjusted.

Speak to a suspension specialist about it.
I have previously wound up the standard bars and have found that with a little extra height you do loose some travel, but which do you want ? Removing the swar bar on the front will have little or no effect. However if you were to wind up the front to get your height, you could remove the rear sway bar and get some extra travel from the rear to keep traction and momentum. ?

If your in sydney a mate of mine, (tony) owns Dr shocks in Brookvale, I'd give him a call and see what he thinks.
( 02 99381200)

If you work it out let me know as I am looking to put some rancho's into the 4 runner in the next month or so.

Good luck

Mick! 8)

[Pitbull]

I have the Sway a Way Torsion Bars fitted (SaW also makes the Rancho T/Bars) they are 30% higher tolerance and made of Alloy Spring Steel in the USA ,best on the market but not cheap ($530/pair)
The height was only raised 25mm from what it was , but the Hilux feels tough to drive ,but not more ridgid, it now supports the weight when coming off a step down without it scraping bashplates or side steps, the difference cant be compared to winding up the original Bars , Rear Leafs are OME so are the Shockers Old Man Emu

Cheers George

[alki]

OME are introducing their torsion bars soon.
Check with your OME dealer for availability.

[2 BRUTAL]

mate got the same model as you but a 94 gls instead. had the standard torsion bars wound up nearly 2 inches and longer springs in the back about another 2 inches. am currently running 265/75/16 BFG A/T TYRES and haven't looked back.sure you lift the front wheels pretty easy but it won't matter what you do you still only have an IFS 4wd. i'm very happy with my rig and have done heaps of 4wding in it you can't go past the comfort level and ride. i have seen a 97 model with about 40mm body lift which would help with bigger tyres but it's a lot of work to raise a paj. especially if you want to move the rear bumper to suit. i haven't had any problems with cv boots either. keep smilin.

[BLU-125]

One of our guys had a '99 3.0 hilux with IFS. He gave it a 3" body lift, 33" Claws & a front LockRight. Only suspension mods were correct alignment and shocks. Used to go up Nissan Hill @ Emu Creek. Bit ugly with all the bottoming & banging but it used to make it!

[jkclowe]

I myself have a 94 Hilux 4Runna and i suspect the torsion bars on mine have been wound up as with Muttis3LV6 I think the dragway look is silly. Im running 31x10.5s atm which where on the car when i brought it but the spare is a 12.5 so im thinking they wound the front end up so the tyres wouldnt rub or grab anything. They have also told me that the 4runnas have a tendency to sag in the ass. Anyone have any suggestions on wat suspension to fit to my car that would raise the bak to match the front

Sandjunke

www.offroaders.cjb.net


you could get your springs reset thats what i did
it only cost about $90 bucks and a day . their s a place in newcastle called dumbrells .

I saw a post on another forum about torsion bar adjustments for Isuzu IFS...... the best way they described to give you suspension travel was to "flip" your top balljoint by unbolting it from the top of the control arm and bolting it underneath. That gave you more suspension travel. All that was needed then was some longer travel shocks. I suspect it would probably work the same with a Toyota

[MUDRIG]

Sounds like a plan to me! Im not happy with the IFS torshion set up but begger's cant be chooser's. Anything that can get me a bit more articulation and lift from the IFS is worth investigating!

How much lift are you planning to put on the rodeo?

I'm told i can only get about 30 mm out of them as they are..... but i suspect that if i lift the vehicle with a jack, and unbolt the torsion bar assembly i should be able to pull the torsion bar out and reset it again at a newer height........ then if that works i may just flip the top ball joints and see how that works. I was told to beware of weird angles or excess pulldown on the drive shaft and CV's...... but the drive shafts on the Rodeo IFS are actually pointing upwards a little. That should give me enough to actually get the 3" i'm after and have them pointing downwards without too much angle or stress on the CV joints. new CVs are only about 170 bux a side..... so it may just pay me to replace them at the same time.

[chooka]

Winding up torsion bars to increase ride height does not work - only way to do it is to replace bars with heavy duty ones. Otherwise you have a very springy return on your suspension travel which will flog out your shocks & shock bushes in no time. Been there, done that - even with replacement bars you cannot lift too much as then it tops out all the time.

[Pitbull]

Winding up the standard Torsion Bars will only overstress them , especially when in adverse terrain , they are made from Carbon Spring Steel in Asia and are known to crack in the Spline.

Even with H/Duty Torsion Bars (like i have ) they do not increase Articulation but they do support the weight much better and stop the vehicle from bottoming out, with Torsion Bar IFS only the fitment of a Diff Lokker ( Auto or Manual) is the answer or unless you want to spend big dollars in modifications in which case it would be better to sell and buy a ridgid live axle vehicle.
I also have a Front Lockright Lokka and all i can say is "there are not too many places i would like to go that my IFS Hilux wont go" .