Build a bastard rig.....

[wooders]

ok ladies - imagine you are building a rig from stratch.....but using other vehicle parts....ie commercially available in Aust....
Let's keep it simple & base it on a pure rockcrawling purpose......
so what engine, gearbox, transfer case, axles, suspension setup etc would you use....

Wouldnt bother, rocks are to few and far between, needs to be an all rounder, so my next truck I plan to be like a stadium truck full tube chassis, coil overs, hydroulic bump stops 37" road tyres 40" bush tyres, good travel, good flex, good handling 500hp, low low range, and handle nicely as well as stop well.

Then it can do winch comps, rallies, motorkhana's, longer trips, outback challenge etc etc.

[baby_troupe]

What sort of budget are we talking, minimalist or go nuts? ;D

[wooders]

Minimal budget...I'm talking raiding wreckers etc....
and just wondering what truck have parts that people think are best & why....No brand loyalty....

[baby_troupe]

OK here is my go then.
I am not as experienced as you hard core guys, so most of this is based on what I have read & knowledge in other fields ;D
engine - Commondoor V6
gearbox Undecided, but most probable T700 Auto
transfer case - Toyota 80 Series
axles & Dif Housings - Mercedes Unimog
suspension setup - Hydraulic, if not affordable, then Coils with 3 Link
Body....... - 55 Series (something different)
May also go for extra manual box, (3 sticks) for super low gearing


Edit - Some parts changing due to budget constraints ;D

[wooders]

Hmmm ok unimog diffs and hydro stuff is a little beyond what I was thinking,,,,,I was sorta thinking minimumal budget, and using what you might expect to find at your local pick&payless wreckers......

Dunnydore V6 is a top start - cheap & redily available.
The TH700R or 4L60-E would also be apt inclusions,

Maybe 80 series diffs (or is the consensus go GU/GQ?), or light weight & big clearance of the Hilux beams.......

Transfer case? The nissan one is a fat mother, and the yota one seems to hang low (can it be clocked?)

Body panels? I'd Guess FJ or Landie stuff would be good since it's nice straight metal...easy to replace/repair....

Interior? what's got nice comfy seats that locate you well...maybe Honmda Prelude seats???

etc......
Come on guys put you theoretical thinking hats on......

[Fenring]

Hey Sheddy, would that mean mother rig have IFS?? :P

In the front yes.

Minimal budget...I'm talking raiding wreckers etc....
and just wondering what truck have parts that people think are best & why....No brand loyalty....


Well, Ive already done that, the 40 was a cheap as chips build, 454,850 quaddie carb, V8 Falcon air cleaner, eureka twin snorkels, 60 gearbox and t/case bundeera t case gears, disc brakes, 75 power steering, roll cage, 60 series springs, late model spring mounts with bigger bushes, reverse shackle front springs, hd steering arms, 36" swampers, beadlocked rims, highmount winch, on the road for 10k.

The 10k didnt include the winch I already owned, or the swampers, just the 35 BF MT's road tyres it had.

The thing drove,s topped, and handled well, with climax shackles and longer shocks would of had 4" of wheel travel, and with the tubbed fenders would fit 38"s without a bodylift.

[wooders]

Excellent shed - just what I meant......

Btw what was it that made you pick the 60 series diffs over say the 40 series, 80 series or nissan...Would you do that again?

Same question for engine etc....

[308LUX]

id save up and buy one of these: ;D

Seating: Two

Engine: Fuel Injected GM, 350 CID (5.7 L) V-8

Transmission: 700 R4-4 Speed Heavy Duty Automatic w/Overdrive

Transfer Case: Atlas II 2-speed 3.8:1 ratios

Frame: 2" .125 Wall D.O.M. Tubular Uni-Body design

Body Panels: Aluminum Tread Plate - easily replacable

Brakes: 4 Wheel vented disks

Weight: Approximately 3900 lbs.

Ride Height: Variable

Axles: Front & Rear Dana 60 w/th 4.56:1 ratios
front & rear ARB diffs

dual winches

CB Radio

super swamper boggers 40"

on board welder

dual battries, dual alternators etc..etc..

Other Options:
Soft Top, diesel power (MkIII), 4 seats, fording kit, etc...
http://scorpioncars.com/images/scorpsus.jpg

Excellent shed - just what I meant......

Btw what was it that made you pick the 60 series diffs over say the 40 series, 80 series or nissan...Would you do that again?

Same question for engine etc....


I ran the 60 housings to keep the track and leaf springs sane, I actually moved the engine back, and the car was a test for the track and wheelbase I wanted, for the tube chassis truck, which I would run an alloy fuel injected big block in, but the last one was to ensure what I thought would work, would, and did.

[cuttin loose]

id save up and buy one of these: ;D

Seating: Two

Engine: Fuel Injected GM, 350 CID (5.7 L) V-8

Transmission: 700 R4-4 Speed Heavy Duty Automatic w/Overdrive

Transfer Case: Atlas II 2-speed 3.8:1 ratios

Frame: 2" .125 Wall D.O.M. Tubular Uni-Body design

Body Panels: Aluminum Tread Plate - easily replacable

Brakes: 4 Wheel vented disks

Weight: Approximately 3900 lbs.

Ride Height: Variable

Axles: Front & Rear Dana 60 w/th 4.56:1 ratios
front & rear ARB diffs

dual winches

CB Radio

super swamper boggers 40"

on board welder

dual battries, dual alternators etc..etc..

Other Options:
Soft Top, diesel power (MkIII), 4 seats, fording kit, etc...
http://scorpioncars.com/images/scorpsus.jpg


i'll take 2!!!! ;D ;D ;D

[wooders]

Nah - ANYONE can BUY a buggy......

Shed,
Hmmm I suspected you had the 60's diffs mostly to suit the track rather than strength.....I was under the impression that 80's LC diffs were the strongest LC diffs....But then
again if you had a bigblobk & boggers - those 60 series diffs would have to be reasonably strong....

[Humpy]

In the front yes.

Why not independent at both ends?

[big red]

hmmm, how about one of those 500 cube cadillac transaxle assemblys....mount it sideways in the middle and weld up the diff as i dont think you can lock them.
run volvo or mog axles cos they already have low gearing and difflocks.
independent airbag suspension so if it gets a bit tippy you can just pump one side/end up.

BTW never seen the caddy thing..just heard they have a front wheel drive 500 and i guessed the rest ::)

Nah - ANYONE can BUY a buggy......

Shed,
Hmmm I suspected you had the 60's diffs mostly to suit the track rather than strength.....I was under the impression that 80's LC diffs were the strongest LC diffs....But then
again if you had a bigblobk & boggers - those 60 series diffs would have to be reasonably strong....




The housings were strong enough for the 40, we did some big jumps with that car, and some home made gussets would make it stong enough in the 60 if needed, my 80 housings were fully braced outside and tubed inners as well.

In the front yes.

Why not independent at both ends?


The rear at this point in time would be to hard to work out, but the US truggie class has the live rear and IFS working really well.

They also have some new cv joints and 800+hp, so they have got to be good to do what Im thinking.

[Humpy]

In the front yes.

Why not independent at both ends?


The rear at this point in time would be to hard to work out, but the US truggie class has the live rear and IFS working really well.

They also have some new cv joints and 800+hp, so they have got to be good to do what Im thinking.

Why not use another front setup on the rear.

Turn the diff around to face forwards, then you would have rear steer, the same clearance at both ends and the handling only independant can provide.

not after rear steer.

http://www.truckworld.com/4x4-OffRoad/herbst/herbst2.html

This is a basic outline of what I want to construct, with sway bar disconnects, 37" road tyres 40" bush tyres, and 4wd obviously....... ;D

A sort of combo of the trucks here, so it has a body floor and firewall/windscreen of a current vehicle for wipers dash etc etc

http://www.truckworld.com/4x4-OffRoad/herbst/leadshot.jpg

32" front trtavel, and 38" rear travel.
http://geiserbros.com/636_shepard_finish.jpg

http://geiserbros.com/BS_238_Side_view.jpg

[Humpy]

That looks awesome sheddy

Looking forward to seeing one of those on the comp scene.

[BigBugga]

Go for it Darren, give em hell

[Humpy]

I just watched Crusty Demons 8, not sure if anyone knows the series, motorbike videos. Anyway there is some footage of race trucks such as in Shed Guys post

Sheddy you should definately build one, they are the most impressive form of motorsport I have seen. I dont see why they wouldnt go well as a slow course 4WD either.

there are two great vids from these people too with all these truggy type vehicles, great stuff too.

http://www.dezertpeople.com/

http://www.dezertpeople.com/gallery/dlh/16.jpg
http://www.dezertpeople.com/gallery/dp2/6.jpg

http://www.dezertpeople.com/gallery/dlh/2.jpg
http://www.dezertpeople.com/gallery/dp2/12.jpg
http://www.dezertpeople.com/gallery/dp2/22.jpg

[baby_troupe]

That second one looks familiar.
Would that be Walker Evans?

http://www.walkerevansracing.com/images/index22.jpg

[etho]

In the front yes.

Why not independent at both ends?


The rear at this point in time would be to hard to work out, but the US truggie class has the live rear and IFS working really well.

They also have some new cv joints and 800+hp, so they have got to be good to do what Im thinking.

Why not use another front setup on the rear.

Turn the diff around to face forwards, then you would have rear steer, the same clearance at both ends and the handling only independant can provide.


diff offset would then be on opposite side to normal = "dogleg" in driveline, too complex/limiting- would work with centre-diff type of housing though

[etho]

there are two great vids from these people too with all these truggy type vehicles, great stuff too.

http://www.dezertpeople.com/

http://www.dezertpeople.com/gallery/dlh/16.jpg
http://www.dezertpeople.com/gallery/dp2/6.jpg


perfect three point landing!, radiator and both swivel-hubs..ouch

[Yetti]

OK cheap truck to build
Start with 40 series cruiser soft top
Three engine options 1.I'd prefer a 2h turbo charged diesel
2.VN V8
3.TD42
gearbox- This depends on what kind of engine and suspension I'm running if i'm going for something really chaep I'd use 60 series gearbox probably auto along with 60 series transfer as well as 60 series springs sprung over with 60 series diffs.
If i had a bit more money and used the v8 or td42 I'd have to use t400 gearbox auto GQ patrol transfer along with GQ patrol diffs and convert the cruiser to coils or use coil overs
Ofcourse diff locks swamper tyres etc...

[GOD]

My idea would to get a subaro or something rear engine mounted would save those nose first landings.....get a wreck and take to it with the gas axe....etc

[grimbo]

I'd get my Sierra, fix all the reliability issues.

Put a 2.0litee Vit engine with auto box in fron tof my 6:1 t/case.

Put in a Suzanna front diff (hybrid Dana Vitara) & my ARB air locker
Rear Vitara diff with air locker.

Coilovers & link suspension

37" Mtrs on beadlocks

Power steering