PJ suzuki - Rear bar and swinging tyre carrier

[PJ.zook]

Well ive started modifying the Suzuki.

The car is a Suzuki Sierra SWB WT with the usual 1.3 G13BA.

[PJ.zook]

Well the first mod is now underway, the bodylift.

I decided to go with 3" because it wasnt going to cost any more than a 2" lift and i like that little bit more clearance between the body and the tyres.

These are the spacers im using, they are 50mm aluminium bar cut to 75mm length. Soon to have a 10mm hole through the center and secured with high tensile bolts.
Heres one resting on car to see height its gonna lift.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/liftblock.jpg

Heres where the lower chassis radiator mounts are. I will have to unbolt these from the radiator and extend the brackets. A little right angle steel and itll be a cinch. You can also see the standard steering dampner that was attatched to a bracket on the pitman arm.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/radmounts.jpg

Heres one of the liftpoints which im removing and replacing.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/middleliftpoint.jpg

One of several pipes im going to have to extend is the fuel filler pipe and breather pipe. Im not to sure what the resovoir is, but im gonna extend the pipes for it anyway, as its there cos its important right.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/fuelfill.jpg

A few other problems i forsee are the fuel and heater lines. Im going to almost definately replace bother heater lines that go into the firewall as they arent gonna have enough slack. The fuel lines in the same area look like theyre gonna provide some trouble as well as they dont look quite short enough, as well as the vaccuum line. These arent a problem as theyre straight pipe, its the heater pipes im worried about as they are custom shapes. Im just going to take em into repco and see if they have something similar, or else just buy some male to male adapters for that size hose.
The stickshifts are the final obsticle i see im going to have trouble with, as the body is going to be higher up towards teh ends of them, which means they may bump into the body. If they do i will just angle grind out the body till they fit, as well as if possible physically removing both shifters and extending them.
Steering shaft im going to remove and extend too.

[PJ.zook]

Heres the two small brake lines i need extending too.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/brakelines.jpg

[-BJ-]

That'll be sweet as.

Make sure you get a proper steering shaft extension. I took mine out and found that the previous owner had fudged it.

It was disconnected from the steering wheel, a pipe was slipped over it and then welded in place to make the extension. It wasnt even centred so it kept hitting the firewall.

sounds good Pete..... let the spending begin ;D ;D

[PJ.zook]

That'll be sweet as.

Make sure you get a proper steering shaft extension. I took mine out and found that the previous owner had fudged it.

It was disconnected from the steering wheel, a pipe was slipped over it and then welded in place to make the extension. It wasnt even centred so it kept hitting the firewall.


Yeh i know how to do shafts properly so it will be sweet.

Also found i dont need to extend the radiator mounts, as its directly connected to the chassis along with the engine, so it doesnt need to move.

[Humpy]

Well ive started modifying the Suzuki.

The car is a Suzuki Sierra SWB WT with the usual 1.3 G13BA.

Planned mods i want to do are:
Bodylift
SPOA
Rear disc conversion
33" tyres
Custom front & rear bars & recovery points
Custom rocksliders
Custom paint
Install turbo or swap engine with G13B GTi
Power steering


You forgot transfer case gears, there's no way you will turn 33's with stock gearing

[Spike_Sierra]

3 inch body lift AND SPOA!!!!
should have just done SPOA - would have been fine for fitting 33's

[PJ.zook]

Thanks Humpy nearly forgot, yeh rockcrawler gears. Ive set aside this years tax cheque for them, theyre the only big must-have cost for this project (Engine might cost a bit but is more of a want than a need).

[Loz]

Good Luck with the project. My project is still at dreamin stage!

sounds like fun!!
enjoy the project and see what happens!

[BushBoy]

Nice to see your getting in and doing some mods to it already, big plans too, good on ya 8)

[Otis]

Well ive started modifying the Suzuki.

The car is a Suzuki Sierra SWB WT with the usual 1.3 G13BA.

Planned mods i want to do are:
Bodylift
SPOA
Rear disc conversion
33" tyres
Custom front & rear bars & recovery points
Custom rocksliders
Custom paint
Install turbo or swap engine with G13B GTi
Power steering
Rockcrawler gears


What, no V8? That's my single biggest regret with Otis. The V6 has great torque, but that note is oh-so Dunnydore...
That, and Unimog diffs - whay more could a man want.
Patski

[cpt-mud]

cany wait to see what the lift looks like :D

good on ya! already getting stuck into it, good to see!!

[PJ.zook]

Looks like i cant have the bodylift done by toolangai, the thread pitch of the bolts is a real slutty 1.25mm, instead of the standard 1.5mm, which means you cant get the long nuts i was planning on using. Ive rung everywhere and always same story, nup only have 1.5

Looks like im gonna have to think of something else. I shoulda looked first dammit instead of assuming i can get them.

I can still make it to toolangai, just need to bolt front and rear bumpers back on and bleed brakes.

[Humpy]

Why do you need long nuts ???

[PJ.zook]

I was planning on drilling holes down middle of my 3" spacers and light press fitting some steel 'long nuts' (as the name suggests, theyre like 2" long nuts), then screwing it onto the existing captive bolt on body which i precut down to a suitable length, then screw a bolt in through the bottom thru the chassis mounts.
Thats how i origionally planned it till i found that you cant get these nuts. Im gonna do some more ringing around, cptmud gave me some numbers too, ta.

[PJ.zook]

Just got my new brakelines back from ABS, got them extended 75mm and they used new fittings. Cost me $60 which i thought was a little rich but i dont know how much they normally do cost anyway.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/newbrakelines.jpg


Also update on bodylift blocks, a guy at work was looking to raise his hilux (i think) cab so he bought the bodylift blocks i made off me, so i can now go and get some more and drill and tap the holes.
I now have the opportunity to go 2" instead of planned 3", what do you guys reckon? Im planning on RUF and SPOA and max 33" tyres.

[Humpy]

I recon don't do the body lift, cut the guards ;)

When you do the SPOA move the axle forwards and it will help the tyres clear the firewall

BTW SPOA gives about 115mm (4 1/2") lift on stock springs

[Boxa]

I recon don't do the body lift, cut the guards ;)

When you do the SPOA move the axle forwards and it will help the tyres clear the firewall

I agree

[BLU-125]

Just listen to Humpy.........

The reason I bought a Jeep TJ was to have a capable vehicle with STEALTH. A Sierra was the next choice!

Forget the Malling & just go Crawling!!!

[PJ.zook]

So you reckon something like this (found searching in outerlimits)
http://www.geocities.com/redidbull1/wheelwells.html

[Humpy]

Yep

I only had to do that on the front half of the front guard to fit 31s but for 33s you would have to do the back too

:D

[PJ.zook]

Well, i bought more aluminium spacers on saturday, this time theyre 2" blocks instead of 3". Didnt have a chance to buy bolts yet, but i do that on monday.

Just drilled several small holes through floor to view top of the captive bolts, now that i know im ontop of them im going to drill a 30mm or so hole in floor with holesaw, then drill out captive bolts, insert new bolts with as bigger washer as i can slide up the rail, then plug holes with rubber grommets same as ones in floor to let water out.

I also located several other body support brackets that arent actually bolted down to body, so i drilled pilot holes through these (got em right on center oh yeh!), then going to drill 10mm holes, and bodyblock them too (once i get a few more spacers cut). Will all contribute to more rigidity.

Im thinking of getting many large washers to space the blocks too just to even them (especailly the ones that arent bolted, just supporting body with 10mm rubber squares), and also getting the stiffest thin rubber i can find and using that between the lift blocks and body/chassis.

Discovered i wont need to extend fuel tank lines either, as im going to raise that at the same time due to me losing a litre or two of capacity thanks to a rock recently at Toolangi.

Will have some pics by end of today, but now i gotta bloody go move a ducted heater vent to facilitate installation of a new wall unit to store me ol mans mountains of crap, as mums booting him out of study to turn it into a home office (she fully qualified psychologist and nearly fully qual civil celebrant)

[CHOP]

Just got my new brakelines back from ABS, got them extended 75mm and they used new fittings. Cost me $60 which i thought was a little rich but i dont know how much they normally do cost anyway.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/newbrakelines.jpg


Hi kaos
Was that $60 each, coz thats what i got quoted at abs in adelaide, some of the suzuki sites have brakeline kits for $150(thats for 3,coz thats all you need on a widetrack)

Chop

[PJ.zook]

If you want them i will prob sell them as im only doing a 2" lift so the standards will do.

[CHOP]

you may still need them, i have 2" lifted springs and extended shackles. and my shockers that came with the lift kit are restricting droop, they are to short. the brakelines are nearly at there limit with the short shocks.
but now i have longer shocks, so i will need to extend the lines.
So were they $60 each?

Chop

[PJ.zook]

Yeh they were $60, but i think we are on different tracks. The brake lines i got made up are to extend the lines that go from the body to the chassis, the ones right under the master cylinder. With 3" i wanted to be safe with extended lines and not have em stretched, but for 2" i will prob just move the mount.

Going to take sierra into work on wednesday to peform the lift.
Got some bolts today, i got 14 high tensile bolts with matching nyloc nuts and largest OD washers they had. And since it was after closing they couldnt be bothered openign register, so $10 beer money later and i have my bolts yay

[Humpy]

With a 2" lift the stock front lines start to get tight. The back is no problem

You can bend the bracket to slack them off a bit, but if you have extended shackles or long travel springs, you might want longer ones

With a SPOA you will need the longer ones

[PJ.zook]

Also had a good idea suggeted from mate at work to use our jedi lifters to lift the body off, as they are made to slide under truck tyres to lift truck in the air, so one either side in the middle and it will lift and balance the body perfectly.

[PJ.zook]

Today i removed that horrible bullbar that was destroying my approach angle and bending the shite out of my pressed sheetmetal front bar that it was mounted too.

I cut a fillet out of the front bar after removing bullbar, then mounted a bullbar arial mount to the reinforcing bar behind the main bar that goes thru the chassis, so the arial sticks up thru the front bar through the fillet i cut. (say that five times fast)
Then ran the wire following existing loom on left hand side of engine bay and through the firewall.

Next i spent about half a bleedin hour trying to find somewhere to fit the uhf itself. I was going to fit it in where the clock and coin holder sits at top of center console, but soon discovered that there was a major loom and bodywork right behind there, so i couldnt have got the uhf in anyway. In the end after much deliberation i decided to mount it directly over the top of the center console, i had no other choice really.
It just fits, i will blank off the defroster vents too that are behind the uhf as recommended in manual somewhere.

Tomorrow i will run fused power to it and hook up the arial, still havent worked out how to wire in the plug, but i should figure it out. Pics will follow tomorrow when theyres daylight.

[cpt-mud]

whens the lift going in???

[PJ.zook]

whens the lift going in???


Hehe its going in soon, and no not the same soon as the last three soons.

Just finished installing the UHF, its all good and works.

[cpt-mud]

post some pics when it happens

[PJ.zook]

Heres some pics of the UHF, nothing spectaular but...
The unit is a GME TX4000 and the arial is also a GME unit. GO AUSTRALIA


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/mount.JPG
The hole is from where the horrible bullbar was mounted. I angle grinded a notch in the bar so i could mount the arial to the round reinforcement below the bumper. Its not staying that way for long as im making custom bars.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/inside.jpg
A pic of it mounted inside, this is the only possible place i could mount it that i found without extensive modifications. Its quite stable, in the corrugations it wobbled but nothing significant.
Today im getting a mic clip, as no matter where i put it it flew around the cabin, rather frustrating me.

[PJ.zook]

Today i did some more exploritory drilling to find bolts and to drill locator holes for bodymount points that werent origionally bolted.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/hole.JPG
Here is the top of one of the bolts i located behind a secret panel. Hole is so big as i have to get a drill in there vertically to drill head of captive bolt out. To locate where to drill i just used a long screwdriver to locate it from other points on the body that i could see ontop and below body, like bungholes etc...
Just out of picture down the bottom is another small pilot hole drilled through another mount point that isnt bolted to chassis from factory, but will be when im finished with lift. All up im going to be using 14 2" blocks, a little overkill for a small car but i love to overengineer things.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/stripped.JPG
Heres just what it looks like with no vinyl flooring, seats or shifter boots. Nice n muddy like it should be.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/fuelfiller.JPG
Just a quick pic of fuel filler hose which will be chopped and a 2" stainless steel spacer pipe installed to extend it.

[taziiy]

looking good kaos

[PJ.zook]

Well ive been working hard today, i dragged myself out of bed at 0930, had brekkie, fell asleep again then started finishing off the lift.
First i went to bunnings and got some more cutting discs, then mates place, had a chinwag and i borrowed his compressor so i could use my diegrinder i brought home from work. Took about 10seconds to drain the tank, still for $99 its fine for what he bought it for.
Also grinded off the security chain holding spare tyre on, as its never left alone outside my house so it doesnt need it.




http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/jackingside.jpg
Here ive started lifting the body off the chassis with my statesman's jack. Im jacking off the front crossmember right beside the front mounts as its pretty strong there and since it still had the weight of the dash, doors and bonnet on the front, it also lifted the back too, but i didnt want to flex the body so i used the sierra jack at the rear to assist.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/mountwasher.jpg
Here is one of the four central mounting points. I cut up a large washer to spread the load on the body a bit instead of right where the bolthead is. Also since the origional bolt was welded in, when i holesawed it out the top layer of two layers of body came with the bolt, so the washer was necessary. I found some washers at bunnings which also fit the remaining hole from the holesaw perfectly too, so there is no air under there.
When i tighten it all down im gonna coon underneath and ontop of the washer to stop rust too.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/frontjack.jpg
Here you can see the front jack more clearly. You can also see one of my aluminium spacer blocks sitting in the mount point too.
I got the body to this height by jacking the body up about an inch, then jamming wood under two mount points, then moving jack around other side and jacking that side up, then switched back again.
This worked beautifully except the body shifted sideways a little.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/rearjack.jpg
Here is the rear jack i mentioned earlier, it sits on the rear wheel and lifts the wheelwell. Worked quite well too.
The mount to the right is one of the proper mount points for the body, you can see the spacer sitting there. The spacer in the middle of the pic is one i drilled myself into a bracket which the body did infact sit on, but was not bolted to. So i drilled a mount point into there.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/meworking.jpg
Heres me working on one of the rear mountpoints checking to see if its aligned.
You should feel lucky, the cameras on the right angle as to not see my ass cleavage.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/rearmount.jpg
This is one of the rear mounts. Both the rear and very front mounts use a welded nut mounted to the bracket to screw into. This is no good for me as the thread pitch is 1.25mm not 1.5 like my bolts. So i attempted to punch them out to no avail, so i just drilled thru them.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/sidejack.jpg
Here is yet another jack from me old mans XE which im using to pull body sideways, as when i jacked it up it moved slightly. You can also see the wood im using to rest body on mounts while i work on other side.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/hammeringnut.jpg
Me trying to punch nut out. I covered up this time.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/frontjacked.jpg
And here is the zook at its final bodyheight. The ramps are being used as chocks as the handbrake isnt too good.
I will need a new heater tap too because when i lifted the body it dislodged some 20 year old crud that was holding the tap together and it lost structural integrity, you can see the venerable ice-cream container catching the drips. It also serves to catch the brake fluid from when i undid the brake lines again.


Anyway there ya go. I was also going to lift fuel tank of which i might still do, but the chassisrail will be directly in way of filler, so i will have to figure something else out. Any suggestions.

[PJ.zook]

Im going to make my own front and rear bars and sliders, do you lot reckon i should invest in expensive CDS tubing or just use standard tube.
Also 30 or 40mm?

Was just semi thinking of cams rules thats all, not that im thinking of competing, just keeping options open.

[cpt-mud]

looking good kaos, only a week to finish it.

[PJ.zook]

Bolts on monday, in monday night, maybe tuesday, then gotta get tyres.

[cpt-mud]

woohoo, then watch you go, you will be unstopable. ;D

[THOMO.IN.A.GQ]

the zooks looking good!! What tyres did you end up on deciding on? ;D

[PJ.zook]

Im keeping up with costs too, just to show how cheap you can do things yourself, not included is price of satisfaction. (see 1st post)
It is my goal to do every single service, repair and modification to this zook myself.
Anyone know any diy wheel aligning places? ;D


Tyres, thru sheer convenience i will propably just get thru hardcore4x4, some tide-me-over 2nd hand 30"ers

[BushTuckerNed]

looking good. i look forward to see how it preforms on sunday :D

[cpt-mud]

maybe you can tow ned out when he forgets to lock his hubs in
;D

[BushTuckerNed]

no comment ::) :'(

[THOMO.IN.A.GQ]

maybe you can tow ned out when he forgets to lock his hubs in
;D


baaahahaha......


The zook will look much tougher with the bigger rubber, thats for sure.......will keep an ear to the ground for you.

[Spike_Sierra]

Im going to make my own front and rear bars and sliders, do you lot reckon i should invest in expensive CDS tubing or just use standard tube.
Also 30 or 40mm?

Was just semi thinking of cams rules thats all, not that im thinking of competing, just keeping options open.



i would make it at least 40mm just because the thicker tube looks better, i made mine out of 42mm OD but should have had a thinner thickness as mines a bit heavy.

still havnt fully finished it, just gives you an idea on sizing, sorry for hijack ::)

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SQARAzoVIwCy0hy9HlRYLIHZtvBkciG6WeAzS1zPg25LDR6CK BcXUDv*Nw9SLoWPhrDMYDDy8M6EOKYZgp6FitL8BpN5UFIpmsb 6JkjK47UbUjvR8Bv8pA/bren%20083.jpg?dc=4675538924928682024

[PJ.zook]

Yeah 40mm looks pretty good, might see if i can get around 3mm wall, should take a few dings.

[DIRTY]

Just run the sucker with no front bar, blinkers can be zip tied to the grill, and hang the numberplate from somewhere, and get out there and drive.

Then get some cheap 3mm wall tube and have fun with the welder ;D

thats cool cant wait to see it on sunday 8)

[THOMO.IN.A.GQ]

Yeah 40mm looks pretty good, might see if i can get around 3mm wall, should take a few dings.


3mm wall is a lot stronger and welds a heap easier IMO. If you are DIYing it, the extra bit of strenght will not go astray!

[PJ.zook]

Yeh i will source some 3mm x 40mm pipe. Should be able to get it through my old work for nix.

Small update, the body is now fully bolted down and ready to rip...except for the small point that i forgot to extend the steering shaft, so saturday im gonna get two rubber joiners and double it up. Gotta bleed brakes too.

[cpt-mud]

kool, any pics

[PJ.zook]

Woot, bodylift is now finished. All liftblocks are in theyre final resting places, after making some frantic phonecalls on saturday to find a bolt bar that was open, as 4 of my bolts were about 1cm too short, i could bolt em down, but they didnt quite screw through the nylon on the nyloc nuts, so they would have vibrated loose.

Another problem encountered yesterday was i couldnt find any bolts long enough to finish my steering extension mod. More on that later.

Final hurdle encountered yesterday was extending the fuel filler pipe. For some reason or another i assumed the filler neck as 40mm not 50mm, so i didnt have any pipe to extend it with. In the end i found a 'plug' which i wedged down the pipe and clamped it off.


FITTING 30" MT's
Well, after seeing Dave from Hardcore4x4 (gday Steve), i came home with some 30" BFG MT tyres which were swapped onto my own rims by a tyre joint just round the corner from Daves.
After getting home and bleeding brakes, i fitted the wheels.
Then after removing all the nuts and turning them the right way round after mate got mixed up, they looked fantastic.
No photos as it was dark and couldnt get a good photo, im sure many will oblige at Dissa today.
About 11pm at night my mate and i had finished adding everything on and were about to test drive it, then discovered some major clearance problems on the steer tyres when wheels were locked. They were rubbing on the front bumper mounts, especially on the right hand side where bumper was pushed in a little.
So, out came the angle grinder at 1130 at night after removing front bumper again, and i chopped off the lower corner of the front bar mounts, which left me with one captive nut on either side to screw the bumper onto.
So we held up the bumper, marked holes and drilled a new mounting hole right between the two origional holes in the ends of the bumper.
We test fitted it, mounted it and voila, well no voila actually, it still was mighty close on the right and i was worried. So out came the tow chain, backed up my Statesman, and after some gentle persuasion, we got nowhere. So then it was take up tension on chain and give it a prod of gas, other than towing the sierra down the drive, no luck.
Now we resorted to reversing the stato up with mate sitting in sierra with foot hard on brakes, putting it in drive with slack in chain, screeeee BAM eventually it bent back out, sounded like braking glass actually but that was just chain.
Now theres no clearance issues with driving it normally, but im still worried about it scraping when it flexes, ill just have to watch it. Ive got a hammer just incase, im not worried about damaging front bar as its gonna be upgraded soon anyway.

The final mod, decided apon at 12pm at night after much thinking and consumption of JB, we decided to...






















BLOW IT
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/supercharger.jpg
Note the customised 'canne' intake and invisible drive.

[patute]

You should run duel canne intake ;D

[PJ.zook]

Modding the steering was also necessary when doing a bodylift, so after removing shaft, i was considering cutting shaft in half and adding a spacer which ive done before, and then mate came up with his once yearly brilliant idea of spacing the rubber joiner.
So i found some 25mm flatplate steel, worked out i would need four spacers to make up the gap, measured them up, drilled holes, then couldnt find any long enough bolts.
After a trip up to a 24hr Kmart, i found some imperial roofing bolts which would do the trick just for today.

Heres teh spacers i made up:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/steerspacers.jpg

Heres them installed:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/steerspacers2.jpg

[boof]

looking good have fun today ;D

[Gojeep]

Make sure that those bolts are only in for today too as they are un-graded and would break easily!

[PJ.zook]

Well last nite i went up to mornington peninsula to greet my new engine, and did i get a suprise when i got there. It wasnt the engine i was expecting, and the damage was worse than described, but it still looks useable.
Its a 4afc not a 4age like i expected, but this only means it has economy cams fitted (F) and is carburetted (C), instead of sport cams (G) and electronic injected (E).
Its still over double the power of the current engine so im not worried.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/engine.jpg

This is the engine, as you can see on the left the front is stoved in from accident and is touching the ancilliries on engine like the alternator, if it was a north/south engine i would be worried.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/trailer.jpg

Heres a pic of mate and i just after rolling the wreck off the car trailer.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/tow1.jpg

We had some trouble as neither of us could get it up the side path as its an upward hill, theres bodywork rubbing the wheel and plus a flat, led to me deciding i would try to tow it up the hill with a heavy duty chain and the zook.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/tow2.jpg

After a couple of unsuccessful tries, i embarrasedly switched from 4H to 4L and up she went.



Another few bits of treasure in the corolla are the seats, i reckon they will fit in teh zook really well, and teh side support is unbelievable compared to the zook. You dont slop everywhere.

[BushTuckerNed]

u love that high range dont u lol

hope it all goes well for ya

[Spike_Sierra]

did you buy the car??
i would be pretty peed off if the guy told you it had a 4age in it and it didnt... or didnt i get the whole story correct..still nice find ;)

[Humpy]

You really want to get an injected motor if you can, better fuel economy and works on slopes

[PJ.zook]

I bought it off a mates fiancee, neither of them has a clue about cars and i only guessed what engine was in it, so theres no problems there.
Plus i picked it up for a hundred bucks so no complaints here either.

As for injected yeh i was hoping it was, not sure what im gonna do there.

awwwww how cute

[PJ.zook]

Well ive almost finished my snorkel, its made from 3x90deg, 2x15deg, 1x45deg bends, and thats only the outside. Inside i havent finished yet as i want to mount the snorkel properly to the A pillar first to finalise position.
Im tellin ya PVC is awsome to work with, went together no trouble at all. Only two very minor problems of that i didnt angle the intake head right, its turned a tad too much toward the outside of vehicle, and its angled up too much by a few degrees (had no choice, couldnt get any other angles).
Heres preliminary pictures. Tell me what yas think.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/side.jpg http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/side2.jpg

[cpt-mud]

aww how cute ;D

[Twisty]

Looks good, but what size pipe is that?

It looks a bit small to me? but I'm probably used to the 3" ones on my zook.

[PJ.zook]

Its 2" pipe, i couldnt get 3" at my local bunnings. Im gonna make one for the other side exactly the same, as the 2" will flow enough for this engine, but for the 4afc it wont.

[Gojeep]

You do realise I hope that that snorkel head will not separate the water out when driving in the rain like a commercially made one? You will have to turn it around if you are not fitting a proper head.

[PJ.zook]

How do the commercial ones separate. From what i can see they just have an overhang to stop vertical rain getting in. And maybe the small 'shelf' at the bottom.

[Gojeep]

How do the commercial ones separate. From what i can see they just have an overhang to stop vertical rain getting in. And maybe the small 'shelf' at the bottom.


You could do it yourself too but basically this is what it done. Imagine the head just above where it clamps being made from a size bigger pipe with the small pipe extending up into it. You could use an 50 to 75 mm adaptor but the 50 mm pipe sitting up into the larger pipe 1-2". Then what happens is the rain is driven to the back of the head, which the larger pipe is a part of, and runs down it until it reaches the area where it steps down to the smaller pipe. It does not run down the smaller pipe as that is sitting 1-2" higher than this spot. Slots or holes are drilled in this area to drain the water away.
So what you should do is buy a 50 to 75 mm adaptor with a 75 mm 90 bend for the head. Drill some holes in the adaptor where it enlarges. You will have to file out any lip inside the small part of it to allow the 50 mm pipe to go past where you have drilled the holes in the adaptor the extra 40 mm needed to make sure it cant drain into it instead.
Gee, I hope that makes sense without a drawing. ???

[PJ.zook]

Makes perfect sense to me, i can imagine exactly what youre talking about, but im not really worried about getting rain in there, especially now after talking to others about it like Dave. I might still make a different head for it tho to keep a bit of rain out and mud, like so i can turn it backward. Wont worry till i install new engine tho.

[Elmo]

if your makin another snorkel to go on the other side, you shouldnt have any worries then about air-flow should you??

2x2" snorkels is a fair bit, the airtec one on my hilux would only be about 3" i reckon

comin up nice tho dude, should be sweet as with the new motor

[Humpy]

Two 2" snorkels will have slightly less area than one 3" snorkel :o

[Gojeep]

Just remember that one tablespoon of water is enough to grenade a petrol engine and one teaspoon a diesel!

[BushTuckerNed]

the zookie got a bit wet today...and so did the lunch, the mobile fone, the ipod....... :o :-\ :-[

[PJ.zook]

yep, nice n expensive, my stupid side came out in full bloom today...





stupid dirtbike track

[Spike_Sierra]

Just remember that one tablespoon of water is enough to grenade a petrol engine and one teaspoon a diesel!


seems weird but ive flooded mine quiet a few times, just seems to stop the engine rather then bend anything. the little hamster under the bonnet just gets wet ;D

[Gojeep]

If not reving it in a petrol you have a good chance of it just stopping without damage and have had that happen myself too. But not so much with a diesel. Still a high risk game either way :-\

[Humpy]

since when is a zook not revving ;D

[cpt-mud]

so , is the next mod a set of floaties ?? 8)

[Humpy]

46" claws will do it

;D

[PJ.zook]

Here are some pics of my new homemade snorkel.
Its made from 2" PVC pipe, and connects into the standard air box which i cooned the hell outta.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/drillinghole.jpg
Me drilling the hole in my quarter panel after about half an hour quadruple checking that i have it in the right spot.
I did this by using a center punch on the inside of the panel to make a light dint so i can see where to start drilling.
My heart was racing at this time as holes are rather permanant if i screwed up.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/hole.jpg
The hole finished. You can see right through the panel, past the battery box and into the engine.
You can also see the piece of pvc on the right of the hole which the bend is going to connect into.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/liningup.jpg
My dog checking my measurements and being a general pain in the ass.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/innerpanel2.jpg
You can see here what a perfect fit the 2" pvc pipe is for a snorkel in a sierra. Where the pipe is in this picture is where the origional duct lay that connected to the airbox. You can see the vertical side of the battery tray that the pipe passes through holding the pipe really snugly, and the origional clamp that held the origional intake flex pipe. Perfect fit i tells ya!

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/bend2.jpg
The two 90degree bends i used to take the intake through the quarter panel.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/innerpanel.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/bend.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/rivets.jpg
This is how i secured the snorkel to the windscreen support. I used some threaded rivets. They basically use the tool as you can see in the photo to crush them internally like a standard rivet, except they are threaded.
You drill a hole the same external diameter as rivet, push the rivet thru the hole until the lip sits on the sheetmetal, screw the special tool into the rivet, and pull away.
I then used a weird 90degree bracket i found at bunnings in the timber support securing section to worm clamp the pipe on.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/side.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/side2.jpg


I dont have photos of how i finally hooked it up, i will soon, i used some flexible sink drain tube to connect the airbox to the pipe in the quarter panel. Worked out great.

[taziiy]

looks like a neat job you did there finish product looks good

[PJ.zook]

Thanks!

To answer a few questions about the snorkel:

The job wasnt really hard at all, infact i couldnt beleive how easy it went together. The 2" pipe fits perfectly.
Propably the biggest hassle was, well, no biggies really, just a lot of time snooping around bunnings with undercover security following me, looking for parts i can use.

To make the snorkel, as mentioned before i used 2" pvc piping, just the standard low pressure stuff. If i were to do it again i would use high pressure pipe, only for the fact it looks neater externally, with no raised lips on the elbows, etc.. and its not that much more expensive.

For the head i used some kind of 2" pvc drain flap. Its got a 45 degree slice out of one end with a hinged flap covering the opening, which i removed. If i were to do it again, i would use a proper head from an aftermarket snorkel (if you can get em in 2"), as ive noticed some mud residue inside the pipe which tells me a little water has splashed in. No biggie as it would evaporate before it even got to airbox.

As for how the engine runs with the snorkel, there has been no change. I cant tell if there is any effect at higher speeds with the 'ram' effect, saying that i doubt there would be, as the head is the same size as the pipe, and i doubt it would help my wheezer of an engine anyway.

How much it cost me? Well without finding bunnings receipts, i would guestimate it cost me about $60-$80 in materials.

The bits that you will need if you make it the same as mine is:
2x 15deg elbows 3x 90deg elbows 1x 45deg elbow 1x female to female 2" pvc joiner (fits in origional airbox rubber elbow, then flex plugs into other side) 1meter (maybe more) 2" pvc pipe 1x sink drain flex pipe (around $10 in plumbing section) 1x drain flap thing
Think thats it.

Then theres the pipe glue, plenty of coon to seal everything, and however your going to mount it to the side of the window. Where the pipe goes through the quarter panel, i smeared lots of coon around the hole and the pipe, not really to seal from water but to stop rubbing of the pvc against metal.

Any other questions just ask.

[Gojeep]

Brings back memories when I did it back in 1983! I used a bit bigger than that and used the high pressure pipe so it would not smash when hitting trees and used twin ones. Still, I had a 400 Chev to feed. ;)

http://go.jeep-xj.info/Hilux36.jpg

[Humpy]

Good write up

Might have to do that myself one of these days

[zukin4life]

those threaded rivets you talk about are also called nutserts

we use them at work alot a hell of al ot easier to use a air powered nut sert gun

[PJ.zook]

Heh we dont use them often enough for one, but yeh they are a brilliant invention.

Bloody yesterday in toolangi i did some damage to the right quarter panel too, but the snorkel held up well, didnt break or move as far as i can tell, and it sure does work, my whole engine bay is a steady coat of dry tan mud, its coated absolutely everything.

[LIVEx4x4]

Nice looking Sierra Mate 8)

Just wondering, have you thought about doing a spring over conversion for a lift, or was it to much hassel. ???

I'm doing up a seirra to, aren't they great fun!! ;D ;D

[PJ.zook]

Ive thought about it many times, and am tossing up between SPOA or a 3/4 jobbie on the leafs. Im leaning toward the 3/4 conversion as it doesnt much increase the ride height hence center of gravity (which ive found at 24hr toolangi episode is high enough as it is). Its a WT zook too so its gonna be a real challenge. I think ive worked it out though, i prob start after the high country trip.

[blue bundy]

hey pj, its greg with the blue bundy from a dissa trip a few weeks ago, i am in the process of putting a stainless snorkel on the cruiser, just wondering if your could be able get a pic of how u attached the snorkel to the pillar, via those threaded rivets?

any engineering shop carries those rivets or not???

thanks, greg

[PJ.zook]

Well after the carby decided to start shitting itself on the high country trip, im going to start installing fuel injection and turbocharge the venerable old G13BA SOHC thats in it at the moment.
So far ive mentally designed the inlet and exhaust manifolds, the plumbing, how to do the injection, etc... and ive started drawing the lasercutting templates in cad for the inlet manifold.
Heres one part, im doing the exhaust next and when i get the turbo im going to do that.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/inletgasket.jpg

[PJ.zook]

Migod ive never realised until now how thin these suzukis are, i parked it on the nature strip yesterday to get my statesman out, and coming home today i thought the curve on my windscreen was distorting things as i was approaching the zook from the other end of the street, but nup, they do really look like they were saved from a car compactor, it did the side squish part, but was rescued before it was fully cubeafied.
Will look good with some wider axles hmm...

[PJ.zook]

Well after i discovered my left rear wheel cylinder was pissing brake fluid from the last dissa trip, ive decided to convert my rears to discs instead of paying $50 for another wheel cylinder, as you do.

First i went to pick-a-part, i had no luck finding some second hand disc rotors from a sierra, as there was no sierras, so i had a bit more of a gander round and found a perfect brake caliper with built in mechanical handbrake function off the rears of a late 80's Mazda 323. They were perfect, same thickness rotor n everything, 2 bolts later and theyre out. Cost me $25 each.

Next i went looking for a mini as i read somewhere on the net you can modify theyre bias valves so they are adjustable. No luck there as they had no minis.

Having a look around i decided to buy some bits for my EFI turbo project on the zook, so i found a 91 Nissan Navara, unbolted the fuel rail and removed the four injectors. Cheap at $8 each, plus i can clean them at TAFE for free. I also took the throttle body off the inlet manifold as it looked in great condition, it had not only a common TPS built in but also a stepper motor IAC valve instead of the on/off valve, all built in. The TB cost me $30 i think it was.

I also found a SAAB 900 turbo to grab the intercooler from, but it either had already been taken or they dont come with one. So i just nicked the turbo badges off it. I propably wouldntve had enough time to take the intercooler before the owner got back from Dairybell anyways ;D JK


[hr]
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image3.jpg

Heres the car jacked up and ready to slip off the stands and barrel into my sisters pulsar.
[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image10.jpg

Heres my quarry that i brought back from teh wreckers. Two brake calipers and the TB.
Ones got brake fluid all over it as the fitting was loose and leaked everwhere, must have been doing it for a while too, theres plenty of meat on the pads also but they have brake fluid all over both of them, and screwdriver marks from me jamming a screwdriver in there to test the handbrake function.
The throttle body is in awesome condition.
[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image2.jpg

This is the right hand insides of the drum brake, mud all over but not that bad comparatively.
[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image1.jpg

This is a disaster zone otherwise called the left drum innards.
There is mud caked and jamming everything, which is then mixed with brake fluid and created a nice rusted slushy mess. It was really bad.
[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image4.jpg

Everything removed ready for the axle to come out.
[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image6.jpg

Here is the axel out, it wasnt that hard to remove, i just pulled on the axel like crazy while hitting the side with a mallet, worked well.
I checked out the oil while i was there, it will definately need changing, as theres evidence of water in there. Im going to make up some breathers while its in the air also.
I grabbed some worn suzi coils from work which im going to use to go from the breather to the chassis, then garden hose from the suzi to the snorkel, not sure how im gonna attatch a fitting to the pvc but well see how it goes.
[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image11.jpg

Heres where i think im going to position the caliper, as the handbrake function sticks out a bit and here is the only position where the levers clear the bumpstop and where you can still route the handbrake cable.
The cable is going to run along the suspension leaf towards the front and then into the chassis and to the handbrake lever somehow, not sure how yet.
[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/Image12.jpg

Heres the caliper positioning from another angle, as you can see it clears the bumpstop. I need to get a rotor to see exactly where it will sit.
You can see a little rust behind the seal in teh axle housing, its not much.
[hr]


Anyway fingers crossed this looks really straightforward, im hoping to have it done by new years, but i dont think it will happen.

[midnight]

Does the Mazda 323 wagon come with discs on the rear?
And are they solid axle?
If yes, then why not take the whole back axle.

Looking good anyway.

[PJ.zook]

Thanks :)

I dont think it was a wagon, and the 323 is front wheel drive, so it had no diff at the back, so that wouldntve worked.
Really the biggest thing i have to do is make an adapter plate which isnt much of a problem for me.

[BushTuckerNed]

I also found a SAAB 900 turbo to grab the intercooler from, but it either had already been taken or they dont come with one. So i just nicked the turbo badges off it. I propably wouldntve had enough time to take the intercooler before the owner got back from Dairybell anyways ;D JK


lol

looks good pj, hope to see it soon :D

Most Saab Turbos are non intercooled...

All volvo 740 and 760 Turbos are intercooled and the intercooler is HUGE.... it would be bigger then the Zook radiator....

Good luck with the Disc conversion.

Hey....... Fit Volvo diffs in it.... then you will have Huge Track....lol... Nice Dana Diffs.. only kidding.. the front one would be the bugger...

How are you going to do the ECU on the Zook??
Wolf, EMS, MegaSquirt?

A mate of mine is a Volvo freek and is modifying a 3 litre Volvo straight 6 and putting MegaSquirt on it.

If you looking at retro fitting an injection system PM me as i have all the training/workshop manuals for Bosch K-Jet, D-Jet, LH-Jetronic and others.
You might just find a Renault 16 with K-Jetronic is what you need...
I have worked on so many D-jet and K-jet engines that i think a K-Jet might be the go... they can handle Turbo's also..... K-jet is very flexible...
I'll look thru my manuals and find a close match for the Zook engine...

Saab 99 and 900 are 2litre and 2.3
Volvo 140 1974 is K-jet and 2 litre
I'll check the renault and VW

[PJ.zook]

Yeh im goin to use Megasquirt, looks like a great system with lots of support if needed. Im goin full hog with port injection, wideband O2, stepper IAC, etc.

I havent bought the system yet tho, so im still open to other suggestions.

I dont need an intercooler anymore, i won a great tube n fin unit from a skyline for $20.50 off ebay, god i love ebay!

As for different diffs, yeh im still considering it, havent thought seriously about it yet.

Ooh dear ol mum washed my snatch strap in the washing machine today, came out spankers.

There is nothing better than a Clean Snatch....

[PJ.zook]

Well ive been doing some more work, ive cut the friction surface off the drums so i can still use the plate to bolt the wheel to the driveshaft.
I discovered that you cant cut cast iron with a gasaxe without sand as i was told by a mate at work (as seen in pic trying to blast holes in the drum).


[hr]
http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/cutdrums.jpg

As you can see both have been cut, and what a lovely job too, cut as clean as a garbage dump. Im going to lathe them up to neaten them and further reduce theyre diameter to fit inside the discs.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/cuttingdrums.jpg

Actually cutting the drums, this is davy showing me how to blast holes without sand.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/cuttingdrums2.jpg

Closeup.

[hr]
[hr]



On another note i finally recieved my sequential twin turbo setup that i scored off ebay. On close inspection, the larger turbo has a little oil residue, both have cracks around the wastegates in the cast.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/turbo/crack.jpg

You can see the cracks here, nothing too serious, the turbo will still function fine.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/turbo/tinyturbo.jpg

You can see how small the turbo is when compared to a can, an empty can.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/turbo/turbos.jpg

Both turbos side by side, they were bolted together. Im going to see if i can get weaker wastegate springs as these are quite solid. I only need 6psi.

[DIRTY]

When do you think you will have the brake conversion done, im keen to see how you go.

Also, does the 1.3 produce enough exhaust gas to spin up two turbos?

[PJ.zook]

Yeh it would have enough gas, but it wouldnt come on boost for like 10seconds of flat knacker, im gonna use the small one only, assuming i can swap the exhaust housings.

Just recieved my Lockright locker, man the parts are tiny, gonna install it soon.

[BushTuckerNed]

Just recieved my Lockright locker, man the parts are tiny, gonna install it soon.

sweet as, ready for dissa ;D

[LIVEx4x4]

Can't wait to see how it runs with a turbo (If I turboedo mine it would explode ;D :o ) Hope the disc conversion goes well.

Andrew

[PJ.zook]

:o i dissappeared onto the doomed 2nd page of buildups, well im back.

Basically what ive done as of now if anyone is still interested, ive almost finished making the brackets to mount the brake calipers to the rear axle, finished cutting the hub adapters. Now basically ive got to weld the brackets onto the axle, then somehow get the brake lines hooked up and a handbrake cable made up.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/bracket.jpg
This is the bracket. I used an 83mm holesaw to cut the large hole thru the 8mm steel flatplate (a tad offcenter heh), then cut the hole in half to get the two brackets as you see here. Then i cut two strips of 8mm and 6mm flatplate which fills the space between where im going to mount the bracket, and where the caliper mounts are. After taking this pic i marked the location of the holes, then drilled them. Im using extended 10mm jap metric high tensile bolts.
This bracket will be fully welded at work on monday, as my hobby welder is a piece of poo and is only good for a tack or two, or maybe its my welding; i prefer thinking the welders crap.
To find where i wanted the caliper mounted i used the thickness of a cabletie to space the gap between the rotor and the caliper.

[hr]

I also went and picked up a jayden which i won off ebay for $20.50, a bloody bargain imo, its about 1 to 1.5" solid insulation thick, nice insulated lid, decent metal catch, and can fit two slabs and lotsa ice. Perfect for my needs.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/jayden.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/jayden2.jpg

[PJ.zook]

Well ive now pretty much finished the drum to disc conversion, the systems bled and not leaking, brake pedal feels great and im just waiting to drill out the wheelstud holes slightly larger at work as i had to use a different model vehicles studs to get more length.

I have also finished my garden hose breather system which is all plumbed together and finishes in the airbox. Ive got both diffs and the transfer added, teh gearbox doesnt have a breather i could tap into so im gonna make a breather later for it.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/valve.jpg
This is one of the origional connection blocks in the zook located on the chassis rail under the master cylinder. The connections on the left connect to the front two brake calipers, and the bottom one is now blocked off. This line origionally went to a bias valve in the rear.
The connection on the left goes directly to the rear calipers, minus the oem bias valve.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/tvalve.jpg
This is the new T piece connection i installed to run brake lines to the calipers on the rear. Originally this connection went to the right drum cylinder, then from that cylinder over to the left. I modified the origional brake lines to adapt them to my needs.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/ptjones1/zuki/discmod/rearbrakeline.jpg
Here is the bracket welded to the diff and sprayed in zinc, you can also see the new bolts holding the bearing retainer on where the old captive bolts were too short to reach through the new bracket.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/1/transfercaseout.jpg
Transfercase removed to modify the breather as it was so damn small.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/1/transferbreather.jpg
This is the breather. To get a hose onto it i hammered a piece of copper pipe onto it, forming a waterproof solid seal.

[hr]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/1/airbox.jpg
Connection into airbox, i epoxied a waterhose fitting into it to connect hose onto.

[hr]

Here are pics of my breather system, both diffs and transfer are all connected to the same piece of hose which then is fed into the airbox.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/1/hose1.JPG

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/1/hose2.JPG

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/1/hose3.JPG

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/1/hose4.JPG

[Gojeep]

Got anymore shots of the disc brake conversion? Just like to see where you had to use the old drum brake etc.

[PJ.zook]

Yeh here is a shot of it alltogether ready for the wheel to go on.

You can see where i used the drum brake bit, where the four bolts n nuts are in the center of the hub, these bolts secure the cut down drum to the driveshaft. It is small enough to fit inside the recess in the disc rotor.
I fitted longer wheelstuds as you can see in the pic, these fit into the drum brake bit which i drilled out to fit the larger shoulder of the studs.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/2/assembled.jpg

[Gojeep]

Now I see. Never seen one done like that before. :)

[BushBoy]

Very well done, interesting to see it done some other way, goodonya for doing something different ;)

[PJ.zook]

Yeh thanks guys for your comments

Well i just got it together the day before the high country trip, and just getting back now i have to say they worked faultlessly. Bias was perfect too due to the less pressure required in a caliper, and less braking area on the pads.
The left caliper is scraping a little on the rotor due to a clearance issue, i just have to grind a tad off the mount to get the caliper to sit a tad back from the rotor.


Now i have to fix damage from the high country trip, the right hub needs a rebuild, both kingpin bearings need replacing, knuckle seals, new battery and maybe alternator, carbys pretty much kicked the bucket so injecting it will go ahead sooner than planned, i drowned it and pretty much killed the stereo which needs a little tlc to work properly (managed to get sound out of it on the way home with a lot of thumping), UHF seems to 'crash' every now and then requiring me to turn it off and on again so i can transmit and receive, etc...

[DIRTY]

Good to hear that the brakes turned out so well, and im keen to see how your injection setup goes :D

[PJ.zook]

Holy hell im back on the 5th page of buildups, thought i might bump it back up.

Whats happened since, its had some damage from a boghole done to the quarter so im sourcing another quarter, and ive also mapped in my head exactly what im gonna do next, which will be coils and 4link front and back, with included 500mm chassis extension at the rear. At same time im also going to make a custom rear section, all enclosed not ute'd which will also replace the softtop.
I just need somewhere level to work, which i dont have.

As for the engine, im thinking along the lines of diesel now, as i am a diesel mechanic so it does suit, plus i like the way diesels drive, propably will suit my gearing nice.

[Rhysta]

When all this gets done PJ, the zook is gonna be an absolutue beast!

[PJ.zook]

Thought i might do a small update.

I rebuilt the carby last night with all new bits n bobs in it, just with one of those basic kits that come with ill fitting gaskets and some small bits.
I put it back on, engine started fine, but definately needs tuning, of which i dont know how. Going to drive zook to a carby joint maybe and get them to dial it in.

Today it was nice and sunny, so i decided to remove my rear diff to take into work and fit my locker which has been sitting around for what seems like a year.
After removing the tailshaft, wheels and other associated paraphenalia, i found i didnt bring home a large enough spanner for the bolts that hold the rear calipers on.
Luckily Tom happened to be on his way down to get some exhaust welded, so i used him and his toolkit to finish the job.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4/tomdiff.jpg
Posing for the camera.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4/diffwear.jpg
Diff wear was really good, the wear patterns were spot on, backlash felt nice, tooth hardening was intact...

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4/bearing.jpg
One thing i did find, is both rear bearings are farked

[tom_286]

coming along nicly pj!

[Spike_Sierra]

the funny thing is you wouldnt have felt that the wheel bearings where stuffed, i thought mine where fine, when i pulled them out they fell to bits and some balls were even missing, gotta love it!

[PJ.zook]

Here is a few pics i forgot about that i took on my mobile

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/locker1.jpg
Dissasembling my diff center. I tried to do it at home, but the bolts holding on the crownwheel were just too tight, so i did it at work and used my rattlegun.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/locker2.jpg
Diff completely dissasembled and ready for inspection.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/locker3.jpg
Here are the locker components. You can see that it doesnt have two mating surfaces like most unlockers, it uses the sidegears to provide that function.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/locker4.jpg
Locker components installed into the diff.

[PJ.zook]

I have also started to make a parcelshelf for the zook to hold my UHF, CD player, 2x 4" speakers, switches for future upgrades like spotties, etc and maybe a small shelf to hold important stuff that will fall on my passengers head while powering up a steep incline. Yes you know waht im talkin about tom!

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/parcelshelf2.jpg
I decided to use 6mm ply, as it is light and will be strong enough when i fit dividers and corner bracing.
Heres me cutting it with the bloody jigsaw. If ever you want to cut a wonky line even when assisted by a straight edge, a jigsaw is your man.
Oh gad im starting to get a teeny bald patch.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/parcelshelf.jpg
The bottom, front and back cut out. The bottom measures 230mm deep as this seemed a nice measurement that gave me lots of room to fit the uhf and wiring, and if in an accident my head would also not hit it.
I contoured teh front and back to also follow the curve of the softtop. I plan to cover it in carpet of some kind.

[tom_286]

Awsome pj it's coming along well, Will be good to see it back out on the tracks!

[THOMO.IN.A.GQ]

good work PJ. The beast will be unstoppable soon!!

[PJ.zook]

Yeh hopefully it will be goin soon, just got bearings today, will fit em tomorra at work.
Thanks for comments

[Spike_Sierra]

which front panel did you need pj?

did you get it fixed?

[PJ.zook]

Nah not fixed yet, cant get 2nd hand sierra bits for love nor money in victoria.
Im still after the front drivers side guard/quarter panel for WT, which has the tub attatched. Also the two strips that go along the front, connecting the LHS and RHS guards and also support the front grille and the upper also has the bonnet catch.

[DEEV8]

This is an awesome build up thread! ;D

[PJ.zook]

Ta, i do my best ;D

[Spike_Sierra]

Nah not fixed yet, cant get 2nd hand sierra bits for love nor money in victoria.
Im still after the front drivers side guard/quarter panel for WT, which has the tub attatched. Also the two strips that go along the front, connecting the LHS and RHS guards and also support the front grille and the upper also has the bonnet catch.


thought i would have some spares for you, but all out of those..

[humpys]

If ever you want to cut a wonky line even when assisted by a straight edge, a jigsaw is your man.
Oh gad im starting to get a teeny bald patch.


PJ I am loving this thread...if for no other reason that your witty little comments. Keep up the good work ;D

[mud masher]

doin some wicked work there mate keep up the good work 8)

[PJ.zook]

Hehe thanks for comments, feedback always appreciated.

Well i did some more work today when Scotty came round to drop off some flares for the zook. Thanks again for them Scott for picken em up, a great freebie find. If you ever need anything chopped off your lux, like your engine block or a difftube or somethin, you know where i am. Hell ill even suprise you one day and chop somethin off while youre at work.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/flares.jpg
They look to fit perfectly and are a lot thinner steel than my origional bulky bloody things, plus they have an inch of flexy rubber sticking out the lip of em too, whomever did it did a real good job too, looks neat as.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/ext1.jpg
Well as you can see i introduced the 9" to the front of the zook with these results, man i love the ol 9incha, goes thru 1.5" thick solid shacklepins in no time at all.
I got rid of the crossmember with the recovery point that got bent in some rough Otways one on one snatching action with a hilux, getting me out of a mudhole filled higher than my chassis with mud the consistancy of wet cement.
Anyway that let go with a bang as it was bent and under stress.
Getting the bodymount bolt out was fun due to it was slightly bent and wouldnt go thru my aluminium liftblocks.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/ext3.jpg
Next to go were the bent side extension bars which held up the sad excuse for a bumperbar, which then held up my old alloy pedestrian mauler roobar.
I was considering keeping the small part of it that held up my body mount, but decided it would work against how i planned to fit the extension, and it would only take me 10min to whip up a new one out of C section or something.
Problem was that this part was also the front leaf spring mount. Since i am moving that mount forward 70mm, i borrowed scotts bottlejack and widened the gap between the chassis and the leafs wiggy wiggy (soz listening to ICP), and then shoved some bits of wood in the gap to keep it expanded without the jack.
Now i could pull the swinging shackle out without it collapsing on me.
Im keeping the bodymount for now as im not sure what to do with it, im thinking i may be able to keep it still and reinforce it.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/ext2.jpg
Here is the 100x50 piece of RHS im using as the extension of the chassis. I figure it to be about the perfect length as it gives plenty of room to weld the new shacklemount on one side, and lots of room to also mount a custom bullbar to the other side with some crushtubes.
What im planning on is grinding smooth both sides of teh old chassis rail, then im going to use two 5mm flatplates either side of the chassis rail and extension effectively sandwiching them between the flatplate. Then im going to drill a large hole in the chassis half of the flatplate so it meets up with the hole left by the old crossmember, then i will weld around the inside there, and along the outsides. Should be strong as the proverbial outdoor crapper.
Should i fully weld or stitch weld these plates to the chassis btw?
I will be using the same RHS as a new crossmember too replacing the old tube. I will be welding some strong ass recovery points on the bottom of both sides of the extension too. The old factory tiedown served me well but you need to move on. Hell the old tiedown point was so strong it was ripping the crossmember out instead of itself off the crossmember. Them Elbonians/Chinese/whoever made this thing did an arite job.

[mud masher]

looking awsome mate love watching your mods keeps me thinking on what to do with mine next 8)

[PJ.zook]

Few more updates. Ive had the last week off work to get my heavy combination licence which has given me lots of time to also work on zook.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/dropsaw.jpg
I thought i might splurge and bought me a new toy. For $95 its pretty reasonably quality, almost everything is steel. Used it several times today, worked nice.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/ext6.jpg
Ive pretty much finished one side of the chassis extension now, i just have to work out how im gonna weld it to the chassis without the wind blowing my gas away and infecting the weld.
I have to say too, my little hobby mig did a bloody good job of the welds, penetration was great, welds look great...
To make the outrigger mount for the leaf to mount to, i used 35x70x3 RHS. I cut all the old weld n crap off the chassis spring mount pipe, then cut out some of the RHS, marked out how far down i needed the mount, then cut out the half-circle to fit the spring mount into and weld.
Then i just measured how far out the center of the new mount will be (73mm), maked the position, cut out some more RHS and welded it all together. Being that im a fusspot and have to get everything exact this took me most of the day.
The other side will be a lot more easier as i know the procedure, and i dont have to cut out the sideplates to get around the steering box and bolts.
I also plan to drill 3 or 4 holes through this extension before i weld it on, ready to mount a bullbar.

[PJ.zook]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/transfer1.jpg
Since i am now waiting for funds to get my new leafs and bushes to finish the chassis extensions, i have started on my new transfer mount.
I thought i would have a lot of trouble with this, as not only do i have to keep the single LHS mount 5" above the two RHS mounts, but i had to make the cradle on the actual transfer box without removing the mounts, which i need for proper positioning... well i know what im talking about anyway.
But then i thought i can just make the new mounts first, then bolt em on and start welding plate on.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/mount1.jpg
After a lot of measuring and calculating, i cut out the two pieces of RHS i would need, and discovered i stuffed up anyway. In the end i cut the RHS on an angle of 4degrees, then butted them up and this gave me the perfect shape to match the old mount's mounting position (good at the old english language aint i).
I used a square sheet of paper to mark the location of most of the holes, i just butted it up square to the origional mount, marked the holes, cut out those holes in the paper, then butted the paper up to the new mount on the opposite side of the paper, and marked holes.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/mount2.jpg
Once i checked everything was in teh right position, i chamfered teh mating surfaces that i was gonna weld, then welded it, again beautiful welds even if my mum says so.

[94Zook]

Great buildup looking forward to the rock slidders as am in the process of designing a couple for mine check out shrockworks sliders http://www.shrockworks.com/zukbars.htm they are best I have found but the price is exy.

[Gojeep]

What mig are you using as the welds look decent? The only reason I have not got one after all these years too is the hassel of the bottle rental but have heard you can own them now too. Is this what you are doing?

[PJ.zook]

Thanks for the positive comments.

Yeh the shrockworks look arite, but there is no way im going to attatch them to the body, its all goin back to the chassis. Im gonna integrate it with an exo cage too.

The welder i have is a Cigweld 120amp gas mig i think it is. When the work is clean the welder works great, doesnt like welding the thicker cool steel like welding brackets onto a bullbar.
My old work is renting the bottle, but i think its been forgotten about. Id say yeh you can own your own bottle. When mine runs out im gonna just get it refilled with good ol CO2, which is what the stuff in it is at the moment, with a few more additives and an expensive pricetag.

[Gojeep]

Thanks for the positive comments.

Yeh the shrockworks look arite, but there is no way im going to attatch them to the body, its all goin back to the chassis. Im gonna integrate it with an exo cage too.

The welder i have is a Cigweld 120amp gas mig i think it is. When the work is clean the welder works great, doesnt like welding the thicker cool steel like welding brackets onto a bullbar.
My old work is renting the bottle, but i think its been forgotten about. Id say yeh you can own your own bottle. When mine runs out im gonna just get it refilled with good ol CO2, which is what the stuff in it is at the moment, with a few more additives and an expensive pricetag.

So you are saying it only gives good welds up to 3 or so mm?

[PJ.zook]

Nah it welds thicker steel fine if its at room temperature not outside in the cold conditions...i think, thats what im assuming at least lol

[MudRhino]

Hey PJ, inspirational stuff! Love the work and looking forward to seeing your monster sierra out and about.

In and effort to make some rackets for my car I went off and tracked down my old arc welder. I am not sure if its any use to you for the bigger jobs but your welcome to use it if you need it.

[PJ.zook]

Yeh thanks for the offer dude. I think i should be ok, as now that im removing the body im going to do a lot of work on the chassis which is pretty easy to transport by itself, so i prob take it into work.
Im gonna beef up the transfer mount on the chassis, beef up the bodymounts that sit under the footwell as i notice the drivers side one looks a little bent, also gonna weld on the chassis extensions.
Im going to use the bare chassis of the 2nd zook to mock up a decent fuel tank too.
Oh yeh forgot to mention i got a 2nd zook too, a 84 NT 1.3 hardtop. Teh bodywork is in pretty good condition, it has a few dings here and there especially around the rear on the right from being laid on its side. The previous owner did an abortion of a job of speaker installs in the tailgate too.
Im planning on removing the body off my softtop WT, fitting the hardtop NT body onto it, swapping the dash from the softtop into the hardtop.

Heres a few pics of it.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/NT1.jpg
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/NT2.jpg
You can see teh dings in this photo.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/NT3.jpg

[PJ.zook]

Another minor update, i have continued the transfer cradle at work. Here is the progress, i will add some more 'panels' that jut out from the main parts you see here, that will slope toward the transfer so rocks slide easier.
Also will make another mount that bolts to the pto mounts surrounding output flange.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/bashplate1.jpg
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/bashplate2.jpg

[cpt-mud]

looks like you want to make itindestruckable. Nice work pj, always love reading the updates on your rebuild.

[Bricki]

Dam Good build thread

Looking forward to the next chapter:)

[PJ.zook]

Just another minor update, been doin more work on the bashplate, should survive a nuclear holocaust.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/bashplate3.jpghttp://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/bashplate4.jpg

[Gerg]

thats awsome PJ!!!

[PSI250]

thats one decent bashplate!!

[tom_286]

holy crap pj thats one solid looking bash plate!

[Bricki]

Who needs a lift when u can slide your whole underbody over everything!!!:D that'll survive a landmine!

[PJ.zook]

Well ive started swapping my hardtop body onto my widetrack chassis.
I needed to get both zooks into work to fiddle with theyre nuts, so i had to hire a tandem. The bastards stung me $70 for 24hrs.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/body3.jpg
On the trailer ready to attempt to fall off and make my old mans wagon wobble around a lot when it eventually starts moving.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/body4.jpg
Both zooks at work starting to get stripped, and all my worldly junk sitting on the back of the trailer out of the softtop.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/body1.jpg
After a few hours of disconnecting all the wires n lines, i moved the jedi's under the body on some timber and lifted it off teh chassis, including almost ripping out the clutch cable and fuel filler lines i forgot to disconnect.
Hmm this is a pretty good height, i might give it a metre lift.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/body2.jpg
Being recovered by another bloody Nissan, our forklift we named 'The Tyre Fryer'. Well at least this one has more flex than Lisa's Nissan.
I had to yank the chassis out from under the body as the jedi legs were in the way.

[humpys]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/body2.jpg
Being recovered by another bloody Nissan, our forklift we named 'The Tyre Fryer'. Well at least this one has more flex than Lisa's Nissan.


Reeeeaaaallly PJ?!!! :p Go the Nissan :D You should have spent the night at work PJ....looks like you have a LOT to do.

[muttly]

PJ, the work you have done and the determination you've shown are an inspiration to all.This is a "top thread" can't wait to see another update.
Good-on-ya!!!

[PJ.zook]

:o aww thanks for feedback, always appreciated hehe

Well today i went into work again and cut off the other side of the chassis ready for the extension. Lurve them 9" grinders mmm ooh yeh, hmm better watch that ceiling cat.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/fits.jpg
More good news is teh transfer cradle fits exactly as planned was rather relieved, now i can fully weld it and be dissappointed when its warped from heat and wont fit again.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/drivingchassis.jpg
Its official, the zook is now ready for big river, drives well in my head.

[PJ.zook]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/welded1.jpg
Also made the other extension today too, then welded tehm both on, man our work mig does a great job.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/welded2.jpg
Havent welded teh bottom parts tho to the chassis, welding upside down has had some painful results in the past, my nipple is still recovering after it having several sessions of trauma councelling.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/truckchassis.jpg
Next project is mounting the softtop to this, its no mog but it should be fun anyway.

[tom_286]

Awsome job PJ! I'm a big fan of your work, this is coming along great!

[Gojeep]

Nice to have such a workshop to work in. What is the last chassis from anyway as looks like a twin steer like they use on garbage trucks?

[PJ.zook]

Yeh a twinsteer 7litre i think it was, not sure what the deal with it is, was there when i came back from my week off, got new tyres n everything.

[Bricki]

Can't wait to see the soft top on that last chasis...that would be a real beach cruiser!!!!!

[PJ.zook]

Im not putting the softtop on the other chassis, but if you want to buy, you can lol

[nissan_4ever]

coming along nice, i alway been a fan of the zooks....

[duck]

nice pj, cant wait for the HC trip and we can do another night mission in the getto for some mud

[PJ.zook]

Hehe i wont get stuck this time

[PJ.zook]

Hmm well i havent updated for a while.

First thing, i gave up on my bashplate. I just could not stop it from warping from heat, even after pressing it tries to return to its warped state in the heat. After speaking to BBM, reinforcing the origional mounts and making own rubber mounts from pin shock rubber is good enough, so thats what i have done, i reinforced old mounts.
I may come back to the bashplate, but i will make a skeleton from 20x20RHS then plate it, as i can pretty much fully weld the frame in situ and it should be ok.
More on the transfer, i got the Suzuki series4 rockhoppers from BBM a day before the trip and fitted them to the transfer case.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/crawlergears1.jpg
Here is the output shaft with the crawler gears already fitted. It was really easy to fit as ive done this type of thing many times before with truck gearboxes, the instructions supplied were vague but understandable if you have mechanical knowledge.
From the left of the shaft to the right is: Splined shaft, Sealing ring, bearing, speedo drive gear, low output gear with dog teeth, engaging ring which underneath is splined to the shaft, high output gear with dog teeth, bearing with snap ring, splined flange which 4WD/2WD engages.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/crawlergears2.jpg
Case halfs, output shaft, flanges, shifter, etc...
I only had to replace 1 bearing on the input shaft as it felt a little crunchy ($30), and i replaced teh input and 2 output seals as matter of routine ($30 for 3).


http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/painted.jpg
I finished the chassis extension, fitted the rear springs up front, welded the crossbar to the front to strengthen it up again.
I tried to fit the crossbar before fitting the suspension but horribly found it was way out of whack, i thought i had bent the chassis, but realised the chassis was just flexing without the strength of the front crossbrace. Even a flat tyre made a difference.
Then i painted it, didnt think about overspray though.


http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/hardtop1.jpg
I finished the bodyswap too, removed the hardtop and placed it on my softtop chassis.
No real problems, had to redrill all the holes for all my extra mounts, that was difficult as with the softtop, i just drilled the holes thru the body and the mount before i lifted teh body off, so the holes would be in the exact same position.
With the hardtop i had to do exact measurements. It worked out great, only had to die grind one hole about 4mm to sit correct.
A few other problems i had is the wiring loom is slightly different between teh two bodies. The main ones is the 3pin plug on my WT carby was non existant on the NT loom. I had to swap the fuel shutoff valve with the old one with one wire to suit old loom, as the newer looms valve had two wires including earth valve.
Another is the gearbox has 4 plugs coming from it, the old gearbox and loom had 3. I just left them all off except for the reverse sensor, and adapted teh plug for that.
After everythign was finally connected and i got the engine started, the bloody larger alternator i had installed was slipping the belt constantly as the pulley was just too small and there wasnt enough belt contact. Will fix this with a larger pulley as this will not only slow the alternator down to suit my high revving engine, but it will also give more belt contact area. If this doesnt work, i will make a bracket and fit an idler pulley which pulls the belt more around the alternator pulley.



I worked for 5 solid days straight on getting the bloody thing running for the high country trip, and the only thing stopping me was the damn carby, i just could not get it running right, it would not idle and would run rough. Ive given up on it and am now looking at removing a TBI setup off a toyota corrola 1.3 engine if i can find one at a wreckers, as i reckon this will work well cos the computer will compensate using an O2 sensor for any differences in teh engine. I dont think adapting the throttle body to my manifold will be a problem with any luck.
Im determined to keep teh old engine and running gear, as whats teh point of a zook if you only have the body and chassis as origional suzuki. I would just get like a GQ if that was teh case.


Hmm i wonder why my zook was overheating all the time.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/radiatorblocked.jpg


Anyway, until next time...

[DEEV8]

damn i wish i was mechanically minded... lol...

very nice.

[4bdan]

Lookin good mate (apart from that radiator)

[Bond]

Top thread!!

I would love to see what you could do to a (mine) GQ!!

Bond

[ROC.HRD]

hah PJ,
good work....... thats gonna be a top rig when its all done.

keep up the good work and post more pics.

[PJ.zook]

damn i wish i was mechanically minded... lol...

very nice.

Learnt most from doing apprenticeship, gave lots of confidence too.


Lookin good mate (apart from that radiator)

Yeh she was a bit screwed, just blew it out with airgun and its good as newish


Top thread!!

I would love to see what you could do to a (mine) GQ!!

Bond

Was thinkin of gettin a GQ cos theyre bigger, but then wouldnt drive zook again.


hah PJ,
good work....... thats gonna be a top rig when its all done.

keep up the good work and post more pics.

Yeh gettin there gradually.



Teensy update, got some 100x100x3 RHS to start making rear bumper/tyre swingaway. Should work great.
Also repaired and reinforced drivers side seat mount as it was cracking.
I just welded crack and welded some scrap steel underneath to stop it moving again.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/seatmount.jpg

[saltyqld]

looks great mate

should be a awesome truck

[Spike_Sierra]

hey pj just wondering how much your gears were, and are they 6:1?

you driven on them yet?
i am looking at getting some gearing, let us know how they are.

[PJ.zook]

I got em for just over a grand from BBM including postage, not sure on the ratios but they are Rockhopper Series4's.
Ive driven with em a few times now and they are without doubt the best single modification i have done to the Sierra, to say they are fantastic is an understatement.
The Sierra's standard gearing is shit to begin with, but with the necessary large tyres required offroad its even worse. Now i do most things in 1st High instead of 1st Low jsut to get up a hill.
If youre going to spend money on gearing though, i would highly recommend a rear locker at least as well. Getting up Phone Track in Tallarook i would never have done without gearing, but one part is constant wheellift and wouldnt have done it without a locker as well.

[Spike_Sierra]

already got the locker, just need the gears!

thanks for the info

[Gerg]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SIMEX-CENTIPEDE-EXTREME-TREKKERS-SUIT-TOYOTA-NISSAN_W0QQitemZ200077117376QQihZ010QQcategoryZ678 2QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

come on PJ you know u want to!

[PJ.zook]

Oh i want to believe me, damn credit cards gonna get a pounding, im hoping auction ends before its approved, self control isnt really around when i need it.

[zauronus]

mmm those simexs are nice, would look bloody good too.

[luxa]

!!!

[PJ.zook]

I did end up gettin them tyres...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/BushTuckerNed/CopyofIMG_1369.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e336/BushTuckerNed/CopyofIMG_1373.jpg
Longer brake lines coming up

[Bricki]

ahhh...pics are looking good...was wondering what happended to this project

[BUG]

Geez PJ, the zooks' come a long way since the Otways trip. Looks like you've been keeping yourself busy with it.

Good work matey.

Joe

[Bazza_rips]

i'm surprised that brake line is intact at all. a few more trips like that an you will have stretched if enough. :D

[Bricki]

i'm surprised that brake line is intact at all. a few more trips like that an you will have stretched if enough. :D
yep looks like it was the only thing stopping his travel....extend it and u should get some more flex:D

[GRPABT1]

Ok before you flame me I'm new to this 4WD game so could someone enlighten me as to what SPOA is? I also have a Zook and I'm interested.

[tna racing]

spoa stands for spring over axle like older hilux's have

[tom_286]

Brand new hiluxs are still spring over in the rear too. It is where the leaf spring sits on top of the axel, not under. eg:
http://www.nsor.com/testdrive/td-zr2/zr2-023.jpg

[adrenalized]

go the zookes they rock

[GRPABT1]

OK cool thanks for the info. Looks like a cheap and easy way of gaining a couple more inches, are there any drawbacks?

[mczook]

OK cool thanks for the info. Looks like a cheap and easy way of gaining a couple more inches, are there any drawbacks?

If done correctly they are not cheap unless you know someone who is qualified to do the engineering and then get them to organise a engineering certificate. Generally it is a good idea to get a torque/track bar, new shock hoops or mounts, spring perches, knuckles rotated, high steer and reverse shackle. Just my thoughts though!

[GRPABT1]

Hmm sounds a bit more complicated then I first thought. I do happen to know a good engineer and a good welder/fabricator though.

[PJ.zook]

Well ive bent the brake lines and fitted shocks, so the brake lines now dont limit the axle drop.

Main project for the zook ive been working on at the moment is a rear bar with swingaway tyre carrier.
Ive made the main section out of 100x100mm RHS, as im going to tig weld and use it as an air tank also, which has made it challenging in itself to mount everything without breeching the RHS.
Im using a nice heavy duty latch that i got from Schutties Fasteners, nice heavy duty unit, does the job beaut, and the pivot is a trailer stub axle.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/rearbar/tyrecarrier.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/rearbar/carriercatch.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/rearbar/carrierpivot.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/rearbar/carriersideprofile.jpg

[humpys]

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pjzook/4wdm/rearbar/carriersideprofile.jpg

PJ any chance you were on the cans when you made that?? :drink: :D

[tom_286]

Nice work PJ, a bit more room in the cab. Might even be able to fit a whole slab in the back now.


Tom

[PJ.zook]

Hehe yeh i keep getting asked that, but i did it deliberately, i was thinkin along the lines of weight, ie keeping it all forward as possible and over pivot point.

[Just Cruizin]

May want to change the bearing in the pivot over to a sealed one or it will be crunchy very quickly.

[PJ.zook]

Its all sealed, its just mocked up at moment

[mick85]

dude i cant see any pics of this swingaway carrier ur building are there any on here?
cheers