Diesel Gas, turbo, lokka or V8

[BIGDAVET86]

Ive got a TD42 naturally aspiraed with 260 000km on the clock and im looking at getting LPG added to the equation. Ive seen one bloke and talked to a few others and what im hearing is 15 - 20% power and torque increase and improved ecconomy if you drive it nicely (wont happen:D ). Ive just spent the past 2 weeks driving a new 70 series trayback in the Pilbara, so ive come to the conclusion that i need more POWER!!

I would like to hear from anyone who has done it to a similar vehicle or even a turbod TD42. I have a few questions;
firstly - is it worth it, im over here in WA and we get 3grand rebate so it will end up costing me about 1300 to 1700 depending on tank size and extra time to make heat shield and things?
secondly - what sort of difference did it really make?
3rd - i plan on also getting extractors and a new muffler, would i be better of putting all of that money into a mild turbo setup? I dont want to do anything too wild with a 260 000km old engine, so any words from people who have turbod their high milage motors would also be appreciated.
4th - should i just forget the gas and turbo and get a detroit for the front diff? I really want more go but a lokka would also be nice.
5th - should i gather my pennies and save for a injetced holden 5L and turbo700 gearbox conversion.

Im coming to crossroads where i want to start making her a bit of a weapon and I keep thinking of selling it and buying one with the mods i want already done, but then i will end up with a vehicle not as nice as mine and im just starting to get on top of a few problems, plus being a full time student (on holidays at the minute) it makes it a little more straining finacially.

WHAT DO I DO?!?!?!?!?

Thanks for your replies.

Cheers
Dave

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

The only real consideration with the Diesel Gas fitting is that the extra power is NOT for free!! You use Gas to get all the extra power, and when that runs out, you are back to pre Diesel Gas fitment power. So you pay for all the extra power you use, admittedly not as much as you do for diesel, but you DO pay!

With a turbo, and your vehicle has relatively low milage for a turbo fitment, I've seen them going on to vehicles with twice that many kms with no issues; you get that extra power virtually for free. Make sure that you've got good compression and the Leak-down or bleed-down test doesn't show any problems. If you are really concerned, get an oil analysis as well. That lot'l show you how good the engine is (or isn't) and if it's up to it, then turbo away!! And if you really don't think it's enough, you can do the diesel gas thing later too!

I went the Schwitzer turbo route with a 3" exhaust, and have added a few minor mods along the way, like the larger turbo exhaust flange to the dump pipe, the OE Schwitzer bits don't lend themselves to the 3" exhaust wonderfully, but the enlarged outlet flange does! A robust turbo that is virtually bullet proof with a relatively low pressure boost on the robust and virtually bullet proof Nissan engine will give you impressive power without going over the top, it'll maintain the reliability and fuel economy (improve a bit if you drive gentle; yeah, I know, didn't happen with me either!) and it's virtually a home fit job. Only thing you really need to get done properly is the fuel pump. Just winding the fuel up works, but diesel tuning the whole thing and turbo optimising the injectors and pump will add another 10-15% of power and torque!! You'll lurve it!

Locker for the front - can't say enough in favour of the locker!! But I think by now everyone knows where I'd put it first!! The rear! Want to add your name to the list of people bringing pressure to bear on LDS? Either way, you won't look back!

Personally, I think you'd probly get the gains you are looking for from the turbo and then the locker. That's gonna get you up and running a lot better, and stopping a way lot less due to traction issues. And you've still got YOUR vehicle, the one that you KNOW all the build up bits on, and it works the way YOU want it too! Just enjoy it then!

Let us all know what you end up doing!

[duza]

From the research I did a few months ago in regards to the Diesel Gas install, you really need to get a Turbo first to get any decent power. With, say a 20% gain from a Turbo and another 20% from the Gas, you're finally getting something reasonable. I personally would do all three mods, even if it meant saving over a period of time and it's worth considering putting a gas tank in twice the size you need so that you can go 2 tanks of Diesel to one re-fill of gas for when you're in the outback and can't find gas everywhere.

[BIGDAVET86]

Well some bad news, i went out for a play in the mud today and i hadnt even locked the hubs, i was mainly there to see if there would be good fun to be had on the weekend, i was only there for 10 minutes when on my way home a awful noise came from the front end, about 1500m from my house so i just limped it home. sounded like and empty shopping trolly down a gravel road. i jacked the front up and there was about 2" play in the front left wheel and the whole free wheeling hub assesmbly was too hot to tounch and smoking when i removed it. I stripped it down to find that the blue grease was now black and a variety of metal chucks were floating around. So a quick call to my mechanic who did the swivel hubs and wheel bearings not 3 weeks ago and a tilt tray was soon there. Will talk to the mechanic tomorrow in more detail, he a good bloke and the best part is his shop is behind my work office so its convenient. Im a little annoyed but hey you get that on the big jobs. After coming back to my ute after 2 weeks in a brand spanker 70 series ive also discovered a few problems that need attention that i will have to investigate further. both batteries were flat after 2 weeks without being started, i think that air is getting into the fuel filter and thats what causes it to run rough as guts when it is first started after being left for a while, the windscreen washer pump dont work no more, was working 2 weeks ago but something has changed that while i was gone. When i tried to start it on the second battery it blew the engine control fuse, it only seems to do this when i come back to it after a few weks away.

Why is it that problems always come in plauges? so for now im gonna get every thing micky mouse, i might even take it to the auto sparky so that i know everything is done right and not my "good enough for the bush" approach, and then look into the turbo option.
Cheers for the responses guys, i thought that the diesel gas was going to be a bit of a crock, the only time i have seen it done is one turbod engines and even the guys at the suppliers said they hadnt done one to a N/A TD42 but were happy to say 20% power increase from 1000rpm to redline. I had a feeling that the tried and tested turbo route would probable be better its just that with the $3000 rebate it would be cheaper.
What sort of cost would i be looking at for a turbo setup with 3" dump pipe and exhaust plus a dyno tune and pump tune? i got new injectors not long ago
I was under the impression that older motors were easily killed by a turbo. Who do i see about an oil analysis?
I would probly stay away from a intercooler for now and get one at the beginning of the next school year after i have saved up a bit more cash.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t254/BIGDAVET86/Photo0036.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t254/BIGDAVET86/Photo0034.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t254/BIGDAVET86/Photo0033.jpg

Cheers
Dave

[Patrolling Paddy]

What year is your ute Dave? I have heard that pre 95 will take an aftermarket turbo well but the newer ones aren't as keen (no proof just what I've been told).
The problems in plagues is currently my dilema as well.
Sorry to here that it's done a bearing (likely) but it's great news that the mechanics sent a truck to pick it up, don't get that service too often these days.
It's a big claim to say 20% on a N/A diesel with the gas, the guy that did mine has said that those gains are very unlikely from N/A.
With my install the gas tank is about 68L usable (std fit 27L usable) so with 200L of diesel the gas should last about 240-250L of diesel (the 2 tanks plus half a tank), this cost me about $4200 and with the rebate of $3000 my out of pocket will be $1200 + pit inspection.
Not 100% sure of the turbo cost but around the $4000-$5000 mark should get you a good turbo kit, setup (dyno tune)and new 3" exhaust.
Hope this helps.

PP

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

Last time I looked that I can remember, the retail price, supply only, for the Denco kits (from Wagga?) was less than $3000 without the intercooler but with a full 2.5" exhaust. Now I may have been reading that incorrectly, and I haven't done a follow-up today, so it's just from my increasingly unreliable memory but I still think that under $3000 will get you into a good, soft blow turbo!

And 260,000 km is really just a little over run-in for a Nissan TD4.2 These things power trucks that run a couple of hundred thousand a year and many don't get turbo'ed until they have about 1/2 a million on board! Some of the diehards like to think it is better on the trucks to do it that way. I'm not so sure, but I have seen more than a couple getting turbo'ed at about that 1/2 mil km reading. With good compression, no bleed down, and a good oil analysis, you shouldn't have any problems.

For the oil analysis, any local fuel & oil wholesaler should be able to get them for you. They usually come in kits that let you take off some oil at oil change time, send it off for analysis, and you get back a printout of what they found and what it all means. ie, high silicone content that has been subject to high temp means that the air inlet is leacking unfiltered dust into the engine - not good; a small quty of silicone with no evidence of high temp treatment means that you dropped some dust into the rocker cover when you were checking the oil; certain levels of some specific alloys mean that the big end bearings are on their way out cos the worn/eroded bearing material is being picked up by the oil; etc. All good indicators of what the engine is doing inside! Castrol or Shell bulk dealers are probly the best, I think they are the most common test kit suppliers.

Not good about the plague, but fingers crossed it won't get worse! Air into the fuel filter is not quite so common on TD42's with a few ks aboard as air in the end of pump and in the injector lines. The little return line that runs from the bypass coolant line along the top of the injectors back down to the top of the pump outlet banjo tends to deteriorate over time, and often gets looked over in cleaning and looking for leaks cos it's under so much and half hidden behind the inlet manifold. Check it out, it is probly perished and cracked, and leaking air if you leave it sit for a few days. Doesn't do it if you run the car daily, and when it does leak air, it tends to collect in the distributor end of the pump, just behind the injector delivery pipes, so it gets pumped out as air bubbles to the injectors first up! That gives you the hairy goat running on start up, and it goes away fairly quickly. Only about an 8" length of fuel line, a bit fiddly to replace, but once it's done, it shouldn't run rough on start up any more!

Good Luck!

[BIGDAVET86]

I think i may have nailed my flat battery problems, i think it could be a diode in the alternator cos today it wouldnt start after being left at the mechanics overnight.

a roller from the outside front left wheel bearing came out or broke or did something strange and subsequently made a small mess, new bearing and cup, changed out and ready to roll, no charge.

Brakes are dragging, this had been an ongoing problem but is starting to get to the point where it heats things up too much. The piston seems to stick out a fair way after the brakes are relesed so a overhaul is on the cards. the slides are nice and free so its not those. Might also do the back. I figure i should just get the whole ute up to scratch and then plan ahead for extra power.

im gonna take it down to the auto sparky and let them deal with getting all of the electrics sorted. There seems to be a problem with the immobiliser and some wiring on the dual battery setup, cos it blows the engine control fuse whenever you try to start with it. Not a problem if the battery is fully charged but because its drained its blowingh the fuse???? there has to be a short or a busted diode and faulty wiring otherwise both batteries shouldnt be drained.
And id only just got all the electrics sorted for the radio, spotties and the rest of the accessories sorted and in my nice little fuse box, when all of the real crucial stuff seems to go up in smoke.

heres a running list (that will hpoefully not grow)
1 front calipers need overhaul
2 batteries being drained
3 Duel batts not working properly
4 Washer pump not going
5 Once shut down it needs a jump start to get going again (refer 2)
6 air con tensioning pully and bracket needs replacing
7 air con needs regassing
8 heater unit needs adjusting so its not always blowing hot air even when its set on cold
9 need wheel alignment
10 need new ball joint rubbers on both tie rod and draglink
11 Install new UHF and make dash pod for it
12 install new 6x9's and make a roof console for them
13 NO BUNDY LEFT IN THE FRIDGE

If i can sort all of these out before i go back to TAFE i will be stoked, i dont really like riding on the train with all the freaks. Then maybee after i have worked up a bit of cash over the christmas holidays i can do something. I can see the sparkys bill getting pretty big, so the mods i want now may have to wait a little bit longer, i will do some of the preliminary work and get everything checked and get some quotes and ideas.
i would do it myself, but that always seems to make more problems, and at least i can know that its all ridgee didge after hes done with it.

Cheers
Dave

[BIGDAVET86]

update on the plauged patrol:

got the good word from the auto sparky today, 2nd battery is cactus and is draining the main whenever you try to start because the 2nd battery is lower than the main it gets the charge from the alternator as soon as the motor is turned over. They could not find any leaks anywhere so that is good news and the alternator is in tip top condition, i was actually hoping it was the alternator so then i had an excuse to get one that can pump out a few more amps.
The armature on the starter is also ratsh*t and thats why it starts sometimes and not others. It wouldnt start after it came off the tilt tray but went fine for me on the weekend. he reckons that the solonoid is busted as well, but it has been engaging every time so i think he might be pulling me leg. Apparently the end housing is flogged out were it covers the gear that engages the flywheel. He can get me a new one for $900 or i will try and get one from one of the cartographers at work who has his own worshop for rotories, his mate got me my last starter motor for $350 cash, no questions asked, a genuine Nissan (hitachi)one.

the sparky reckons all my wiring is really good and is just going to clean up a few of the factory looms that need attention.

to add to the exitement of the last few days i now have coolant leaking from the water pump. i pretty sure its just from the gasket so thats alright. i will get that done at the same time as the brakes.
Im taking all this as a sign to stop looking for deep water and mud to challenge myself and stick to shallow mud, hilclimbs, trails and the beach.
Well its a good thing im on holidays and working full time cos id be stressing about the money otherwise, im looking upon this as a chance to get everything ship shape and then i can move foreward with a turbo hopefully around the TAFE summer holidays.

Cheers
Dave

[Patrolling Paddy]

Dave
Not sure what the repair bill would be but I just happen to have a Denco turbo sitting in my shed. It just needs a new inlet impeller (slight disagreement with a wing nut but that is another story) the turbo still operates and produces boost, it has no leaks or housing damage, I changed it cause I didn't want to leave it with a damaged impeller and no one local could repair it without sending it away.
If you are interested it is just sitting there, it cost me $1800 for the replacement turbo so if you make a fair offer (consider repair costs) you can get it cheap and then you only have to organise manifold and exhaust (and a few other little bit I spose). Just an option to help you out.

Cheers

PP

[Maineiac]

Locker for the front - can't say enough in favour of the locker!! But I think by now everyone knows where I'd put it first!! The rear! Want to add your name to the list of people bringing pressure to bear on LDS? Either way, you won't look back!


Who, What or Where is LDS?

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

Who, What or Where is LDS?

Locked Drive Systems, or LDS the Australian importer of Detroit Lockers

LDS was formed in 1989 with the express purpose of promoting the range of Locking Differentials called NoSpins® and Detroit Lockers®. Working with the manufacturer in the USA, LDS gradually set up a full range of NoSpins® for trucks commonly in use in Australia.
The result of this long effort is a complete range encompassing all the trucks used in local government, bush fire brigades, electricity authorities, mining, earthmoving, state rail departments, national organisations and the military.


Locked Drive Systems Pty Limited
5 Peel Street, Granville, NSW, 2142, Australia
Phone: +61 (0) 2 9897 7912
Fax: +61 (0) 2 9897 7913

or try the website Locked Drive Systems (http://www.locked-drive.com.au/)

[Maineiac]

Thanks Peter, I'm hoping to put on in my front (I know you prefer rear) when I get back from the U.S. Can't afford both the trip and the locker right now and maybe not after I get back, depending on what we spend there!

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

But if you are going to the States anyhow, what the heck do you think excess bagagge is for?? Gimme a day or two and I can get orders for about 15 Detroit Lockers, but you'd better start working out, 'cos at 18 kilo's each, they gonna get awful heavy as carry on!

Seriously, have you considered collecting one (or even two) while you are over there? They are cheaper by comparison with Australian prices, AND the exchange rate will make it a little less painful. It could make a pair of lockers quite achievable! Orright it might be harder to get Nissan Patrol Lockers, but have you got any mates who drive Navaras (Frontiers) or Toyota's, 80 or even 100 series, plus all the 4runners and Surfs etc?? Get a couple of lockers to fit them, and do a swap. You bring home a US sourced Detroit Locker, they fund part of an Aussie sourced Detroit Locker! Check 'em all out!

[BIGDAVET86]

Got new starter motor, new battery, new winscrean washer pump, and a new dual battery solonoid - voltage was dropping down to 9.5V through the solonoid! main battery is on the way out but it has lasted 3 1/2 years so will be happy to replace it when it goes no more.

With the electrics sorted i need to fix the dragging brakes and water leak first. Then i will fix air con. I will do the heater unit when i fit the new UHF and 6x9's. Then a wheel alignment and new balljoint boots and then it will be in better shape than ever. Will also give it a quick service on the weekend.

Cheers
Dave :waycool: :truck: :drink:

[Maineiac]

But if you are going to the States anyhow, what the heck do you think excess bagagge is for?? Gimme a day or two and I can get orders for about 15 Detroit Lockers, but you'd better start working out, 'cos at 18 kilo's each, they gonna get awful heavy as carry on!

Seriously, have you considered collecting one (or even two) while you are over there? They are cheaper by comparison with Australian prices, AND the exchange rate will make it a little less painful. It could make a pair of lockers quite achievable! Orright it might be harder to get Nissan Patrol Lockers, but have you got any mates who drive Navaras (Frontiers) or Toyota's, 80 or even 100 series, plus all the 4runners and Surfs etc?? Get a couple of lockers to fit them, and do a swap. You bring home a US sourced Detroit Locker, they fund part of an Aussie sourced Detroit Locker! Check 'em all out!

Haven't bothered to look because I know you can't get Patrol lockers in the States. Apparently even the softlocker is modified here to fit. That's one reason why I'm looking at the front first then maybe TJM or ARB for the rear in the future. I am looking at Explorist XL (less than $500AUS), perhaps some Rancho Shocks, also very cheap compared to here, and perhaps the Warn electronic control box.

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

Back some time (almost a coupla decades!) there was a bit of a 'black market' going bringing Detroit Series III's into Oz to fit Patrols and Nissans/UD's(?) with the same diff. The only way you could tell the imports from the LDS product was that with the imports you had to lop an inch or two off the ends of both axles or you'd end up with wheel bearings missing the axle tubes by about that much! Take the Nissan specs and ask while you are over there! You need the crownwheel inner & outer dia, the centre outer dia, the bearing depth & dia, the pinion shaft dia & offset, the axle dia & spline count. Anyone remember anything else you need?? Apart from $$ of course!

BTW, you probly know this Maineic, but for others reading or considering, you realise that there is no or very little warranty support for items bought OS and imported on a 'Personal Import' basis! So the Explorist XL, while cheap, may even be a bit of an issue for someone not prepared; with the wrong base mapset, time zones, tide & sunset info, best fishing times, etc, etc AND little warranty!

[BIGDAVET86]

I ended up paying $670 for the starter motor, Nissan called me back today, only 2 days late, guess how much for a new starter motor for a TD42............................................. $1350
when i told him i got mine for $670 he told me that the nissan one came with a 1 year warranty. Thats nice i said i got 2 years on my cheap one, that has the exact same part number!?!?!?

Cheers
Dave

[Maineiac]

Back some time (almost a coupla decades!) there was a bit of a 'black market' going bringing Detroit Series III's into Oz to fit Patrols and Nissans/UD's(?) with the same diff. The only way you could tell the imports from the LDS product was that with the imports you had to lop an inch or two off the ends of both axles or you'd end up with wheel bearings missing the axle tubes by about that much! Take the Nissan specs and ask while you are over there! You need the crownwheel inner & outer dia, the centre outer dia, the bearing depth & dia, the pinion shaft dia & offset, the axle dia & spline count. Anyone remember anything else you need?? Apart from $$ of course!

BTW, you probly know this Maineic, but for others reading or considering, you realise that there is no or very little warranty support for items bought OS and imported on a 'Personal Import' basis! So the Explorist XL, while cheap, may even be a bit of an issue for someone not prepared; with the wrong base mapset, time zones, tide & sunset info, best fishing times, etc, etc AND little warranty!

I don't worry about the warranty on small items like the Explorist, Peter, because if something goes wrong I can simply mail it to my son in the States, let him take care of the warranty problem, then mail it back to me. Takes a bit longer but works. I know I'll need a new map when I get back here, but there are ways to do that:) On the heavier items though there can be a bit of a problem cause of shipping costs if they won't honor the warranty here. The last time we were in the States, we bought a watch that had a RRP of US$1,100 for US$39.00. A shop was going out of business and all watches were $39.00. The watch was fine for about 6 months then stopped. Seiko repaired it here for no cost. So sometimes it's worth it.

[89 GQ]

This is what i would do first turbo it, if it is pre august 93 then run it about 14pounds if post august 93 then only run about 8-10, this is because pre 93 have heavier pistons and a crucial oil squirter that cools the pistons. Next i would be getting a 3 inch mandrel exhaust and dump pipe, do not forget the dump pipe otherwise it will still be restricted. Get it all dyno tuned to run this set up and watch it fly. I have been told by someone very technical that going diesel gas without a turbo will not give very good results compared to a turbo diesel, so turbo it first and then later down the track if you want more power add gas. If you still have money left over then go an auto locker up front and take your LSD into get it shimmed. These mods will make a whole new car, i know it is alot of money to put into a truck but i know people that after adding a turbo to their GQ TD42's will not drive one with out it.What model is it?

Cheers chris

[Peter @ Aawen4x4]

I don't worry about the warranty on small items like the Explorist, Peter, because if something goes wrong I can simply mail it to my son in the States, let him take care of the warranty problem, then mail it back to me. Takes a bit longer but works. I know I'll need a new map when I get back here, but there are ways to do that:) On the heavier items though there can be a bit of a problem cause of shipping costs if they won't honor the warranty here. The last time we were in the States, we bought a watch that had a RRP of US$1,100 for US$39.00. A shop was going out of business and all watches were $39.00. The watch was fine for about 6 months then stopped. Seiko repaired it here for no cost. So sometimes it's worth it.

Yeah, I thought that you probly had that all sorted Maineiac, the post was largely for the people who hadn't thought all that thru'! It sometimes comes as a shock to some that the whatever they bought o/s for a great price is almost unsupportable when it breaks back home after a couple of months!! So it is important for people to be aware of the warranty issues, and cater for it in their planning a evaluation of the purchasing costs!

[BIGDAVET86]

This is what i would do first turbo it, if it is pre august 93 then run it about 14pounds if post august 93 then only run about 8-10, this is because pre 93 have heavier pistons and a crucial oil squirter that cools the pistons. Next i would be getting a 3 inch mandrel exhaust and dump pipe, do not forget the dump pipe otherwise it will still be restricted. Get it all dyno tuned to run this set up and watch it fly. I have been told by someone very technical that going diesel gas without a turbo will not give very good results compared to a turbo diesel, so turbo it first and then later down the track if you want more power add gas. If you still have money left over then go an auto locker up front and take your LSD into get it shimmed. These mods will make a whole new car, i know it is alot of money to put into a truck but i know people that after adding a turbo to their GQ TD42's will not drive one with out it.What model is it?

Cheers chris


Its a 95 coil cab chris, cheers for the words of wisdom. Im hearing the turbo call loud and clear now and i will try and get it done in the new year seeing as i go back to TAFE shortly and still have some things to fix, plus im sure something else can go wrong with abit of persuasion.
Why is it that nissan made the pistons lighter and got rid of an oil squirter. Less reciprocating mass (did i get that right, shoulda just said weight moving up and down really fast) would probly make it more rev happy but not keep the inertial going as well but getting rid of extra oil in critical places why? I though i was doin a good thing buying a 95, there was plenty of tidy 88 and 90 model wagons going for a song but i got the newer 95 thinking it would have to be better. oh well. I was kinda hoping that i might also be able to get it intercooled a swel seeing as the power and torque gains will hopefully bring it into the realm of the new turbo diesel utes i drive at work otherwise its a commodore V8 for me, i swear its some sort of cruel joke, hopping out of a new 70 series or BT50 and into a N/A TD42, at least it doesnt need revs to hit its straps.

Cheers
Dave

[Patrolling Paddy]

My TD42 with the water-air I/C and 12psi was/is running 119kw and with about 14% gas 131kw (should be higher when I get around to the new rings etc...) so either way it is better then the new-er GU TD42 but just not as 'refined'

[BIGDAVET86]

wouldn't it be cheaper/easier to buy a TD42t from a GU and then just bolt it up into the GQ?
I was just a thought cos then you get an entriely newer engine, hopefully less than 150 000km and it will be turbod already and maybe intercooled aswell. Thats my main concern once you start putting things under more pressure(from more power) all the weakness will be shown.

What would your guess be for price of a intercooled TD42T?
It should bolt strait in shouldnt it and get the gu power steering while your there?

Has anybody done this?
the Lancruiser crowd transplant the newer diesels into their older models all the time.

Cheers
Dave

[BIGDAVET86]

I went the Schwitzer turbo route with a 3" exhaust, and have added a few minor mods along the way, like the larger turbo exhaust flange to the dump pipe, the OE Schwitzer bits don't lend themselves to the 3" exhaust wonderfully, but the enlarged outlet flange does!

I went out turbo hunting today and have come back with a few questions: Is the 3"dump pipe that everybody talks about, replacing the std. cast outlet on the turbo. Because i was in at turbotech today and when i asked about the 3" dump pipe he said 'of course we put one on, there is not point having a 2 1/2" engine pipe with a 3" exhaust'.

Is the engine pipe the same as exhaust flange, and is that any different to the dump pipe.

Im just getting really confused with all the terminology.

the bloke at turbotech acted like the 3" dump pipe was std., but here everyone says that its an extra that you have to make sure you get specially???

If some one could put an arrow on here where it is or decribe where it bolts up that would be great.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t254/BIGDAVET86/display.jpg

I know its not a scwitzer but the theory is the same, isnt it?

Cheers
Dave

[Patrolling Paddy]

Dave
I am on nights at the moment but I have a spare turbo and the std 'engine pipe/dump pipe' that was supplied, when I am on days off I will take some pics for you and show you exactly on the Switzer turbo.

PP

[BIGDAVET86]

Cheers Paddy,
I forgot to ask how much to repair a damaged inlet impeller, but i have no doubt i will be back there soon so i will ask em next time, that is if the damaged one is stillsitting around making the place look untidy......

Hows the rig goin with the gas setup, you puttn a few bush miles on it? Did you end up fabbing a new front suspension setup?

Cheers
Dave

[Patrolling Paddy]

The gas setup is going great now I have had it re-tuned, search through some of my recent posts and you can see the figures for yourself. The front suspension is about half done but has been slooooooooow going due to al sorts of other things going on.

I rang up about the repair job on the turbo and I THINK from memory is was around the $600 mark. I have been toying with the idea of twin turbo's though.

PP

[BIGDAVET86]

I rang up about the repair job on the turbo and I THINK from memory is was around the $600 mark. I have been toying with the idea of twin turbo's though.


TWIN TURBOS, YOU ANIMAL!!

If you could get that setup it would be awesome. would you need some diferent compressor wheel setup so that it would spool up the same with half the amount of exhaust availabel?

Cheers
Dave

[Patrolling Paddy]

Not sure yet, still have a lot of homework to do before I even think about swinging spaners. I need to talk to a few turbo guru's to get my head around the theory first, and the best way to achieve a gain.
Still toying with the idea and nothing is set to happen yet.
Would be cool though.

PP

[BIGDAVET86]

Bit of an update;

I got the aircon fixed and i cant believe i went all last summer without it. New comprerssor, reciever drier, and thermo fan - $1050.

All the other probs are now fixed but with the brakes dragging for so long before i got them overhauled the rotors feel a bit warped and get a bit hairy when braking. I fitted Superior Engineering Adjustable Panhards and that fixed the braking shudder somewhat. Next i will getting some castor bushes to bring the handling back to something acceptable and probly fit some new rotors in a few weeks.
Im thinkn of doin a body lift and a tray lift coz i managed to tear considerable chunks out of one of my rear tyres when it had some disagreaments with a bolt that comes through the tray, it only comes through 9 or 10 mm as well. And you can see marks on the other side(with no bolt) that the tyre has been touching the tray. I would like to make a new tray but time and money are always an issue. And i might buy a set of 35's second hand for the weekends so the money will go there after the turbo.

On the turbo front im probly gonna go down the denco road and fit it me self with the help of my mate and his brother, who are both heavy diesel mechanics, and his brother set up a fair few 2H's and 1HZ's with turbos when he was back in Queenbian(spelling).

As for the locker, i helped me mate fit up an air locker to his 100 series and when we went for a wheel on monday he way crawling the parts i had to use momentum and power to get through. So a auto locker for the front will also be on the savings list, but once again will probly have to wait.

I was meant to be going to Kalgoorlie for a month today but becasue of the fire and tradgety out there the road is closed and the trip to kal is now 1200km instead of 600km so work said im not going till Sunday, when the road is due to be opened. So im waitn here in town missn out on the $$$, that would be used on the ute. Christmas really drained the funds along with fixing all the niggling problems on the ute so all these things will now have to wait until i go back to school, after i have collected my "woking away from home" money, and paid for TAFE and all of the important things, i will see how much change is left and see what i can do, without leavn me arse hangn out too much.

Cheers
Dave